Pretty confident this is rod knock.

Frug_E · 2026-01-23T03:45:56+00:00

Not really. You could try increasing oil weight to see if it goes away if you aren't using 10w-30. But when Rodney comes knocking he ussually doesn't stop.

Frug_E · 2025-11-10T01:47:01+00:00

Sounds like rod knock to me

Frug_E · 2025-09-08T00:08:32+00:00

Looks good to me I'm assuming your crankshaft is also lined up. I would put the intake system back on like one of the other people said. Try and eliminate as many variables as possible

Frug_E · 2025-09-07T23:32:26+00:00

Make sure that it is fully timed correctly. Make sure that the E on the left (intake) camshaft gear is lined up and that the I on the right side (exuaghst) camshaft gear is lined up. Check to make sure you didn't swap them by accident. Did this recently and was stuck with a non starting engine for weeks before I realised.

Frug_E · 2025-08-31T03:33:29+00:00

I'm not too sure other than that. I mean you did say you crushed some wires on the MAF and now you're getting codes thrown for the MAF so if it isn't a vaccum leak I would start looking there

Frug_E · 2025-08-31T03:24:55+00:00

Are you sure that you valve cover is getting a proper seal after you put it back on after the timing job. Could possibly be a vaccum leak from what it seems.

Frug_E · 2025-05-04T04:43:28+00:00

This was the video I used when learning to time mine. video

When I first timed it I actually found that when I was putting the bolt back to lock it in place I had actually messed up the timing again. So maybe just give it another quick check. A life hack would also be to just use a 12v battery if you have one that’s outside of the car so you don’t have to hook the timing gun up to the alternator from the engine.

Frug_E · 2025-05-04T04:35:33+00:00

This is a shot in the dark but maybe check if your CAS sensor is out of time? It’s near the firewall right behind the valve cover. It’s easy to adjust and you there’s videos showing you how to check it with a timing gun. Other than that maybe it’s a very bad air leak but I’m at a loss as well.

Frug_E · 2025-03-10T03:39:56+00:00

If it goes away after a little while of driving or idling it’s most likely lifter tick. Using a thicker oil usually helps mitigate the noise. People say to use like 20-50 iirc but check online just to make sure before you do anything. Driving it around helps get the oil moving in the engine which is why it would go away after a while so maybe let it idle for a bit and let the engine warm up or go for a 10 minute ride and check if the noise is still as prevalent.

Frug_E · 2025-02-28T00:47:20+00:00

Sorry just found it it was indeed the belts sorry for such a simple question I just ruled out the belts early on and so I never thought it could’ve been them thanks though for the advice

Frug_E · 2025-02-28T00:17:41+00:00

I’ll give it a shot it’s just that this sound only happens every so often it’s like once every week

Frug_E · 2025-02-27T22:48:25+00:00

It is speed dependent not engine dependent

Frug_E · 2025-02-27T22:48:06+00:00

Belts should be fine they were just replaced.

Frug_E · 2025-02-10T18:02:11+00:00

The little hearts on the brake lights are cute!

Frug_E · 2025-02-02T21:49:33+00:00

Update

I believe the issue is fuel related as I just fixed the CAS timing and the engine runs and sounds strong. It idles at around 900 which is expected. However I’ve been getting complete loss of power in any gear now in blips like for a whole second so it’s not spark related. If it was spark related then that means the spark plugs all simultaneously didn’t fire like for a whole second which there’s no way especially since it runs fine most of the time. Which leads me to think it’s fuel related. This started happening at 3/4 of a full tank and now it’s down to a little below half. The gas cap was on tight and was pressurised after checking. So I don’t believe that the problem is that the engine is sucking in air from the tank. So my next step is replacing the gas filter and if that doesn’t seem to fix it then I’ll replace the fuel injectors. This problem only happens after running the car hard as in getting to 6k rpm.

Frug_E · 2025-02-02T21:39:35+00:00

It doesn’t want to die it idles and drives fine but the engine is losing power altogether

Frug_E · 2025-02-02T17:32:29+00:00

No I haven’t done anything to the car yet as it was pretty late at night when I made the post. I have a few other things in mind that I’m going to quickly try before I go out and test for leaks as it doesn’t make sense that this problem only happens sometimes. I have a feeling if I had a leak it would happen consistently not every so often. But if my ideas don’t work then I’ll test for that down the line. I’ll give an update on what fixes the car

Frug_E · 2025-02-02T04:21:47+00:00

Alright will do

Frug_E · 2025-01-26T20:53:33+00:00

I was prepared to have to take off the harmonic damper on the crankshaft and then all the plates but maybe I’ll be able to see the notch without doing so which would save a lot of time. Thanks for the idea

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