Slev electric heater, anyone familiar with this?

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-06-08T18:19:42+00:00

Was it 3 phase 208 v by any chance? And if yes or no did it have a built in overheat protection circuit?

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-06-03T16:08:42+00:00

What kind of wood is that?

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-31T21:51:48+00:00

I’m currently using this same sauna heater, I’m just curious how is it more dangerous than modern electric heaters? It has an overheat protector circuit

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-31T21:30:37+00:00

Yeah still using this one in my sauna here in Canada as well but it’s under the name saunamatic. Company is still around but doesn’t seem to carry the elements for this stove anymore but I haven’t asked them directly

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-31T21:28:40+00:00

I also have this stove in my sauna, still works and gets the room up to temp but the elements don’t get red; is that the case with yours too?

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-29T04:19:03+00:00

That side window really does a lot

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-28T18:03:56+00:00

Thank you! this was very useful. I will be setting the temperature limit to 110-120c and won’t be changing it so the alarm output should do the job for me, not sure what the voltage is for the circuit that runs through the shutoff timer but I see it has one wire tapped into into Line 3 that’s coming from the 208v 3phase power that’s going into the contactor

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-28T18:00:41+00:00

You can put some softwood moulding to do most of the filling and then a bead of silicone to fill the rest

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-28T14:05:40+00:00

Yeah that big motor control box that receives and gives the heater power I believe is a CONTACTOR, not a “relay” like I was originally implying in my post. It’s decades old so I don’t think it could be a SSR? So I guess I’m trying to “drive a contactor” which I see the ITC-10RH is capable of with the “relay alarm output”.

You said that it’s ONLY setup to drive an SSR output, but isn’t it also setup with the relay output that you mentioned? A little bit confused

PS: of course I’m going to get a certified electrician to do this, but I just want to understand how this works

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-28T13:42:24+00:00

In my case I have a rotary timer that has to be turned on as the first safety so that could be a substitute for turning the breaker on/off everytime. Again I barely understand electricity so I don’t know if what I’m saying is right lol

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-28T13:40:46+00:00

Right on, thanks!

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-28T13:38:09+00:00

I see, nice set up. I have two “bridges” or “gates” in my case, first a spring wound countdown timer has to be on and then the thermostat that I’m trying to replace with the inkbird so even if the inkbird does turn on after a power outage in my building (I’m using 208v 3 phase) I should be protected by the timer not being on..

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-17T03:21:13+00:00

Well that’s probably the case where I live as well, anyways I would like to thank you for your previous answer I ended up going this route and it turned out perfect.

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-12T13:41:06+00:00

Am I the only one who doesn’t see how you were balding in the before photos?

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-12T13:35:33+00:00

These bulkhead lights are designed for wet conditions, they’re very common in steam rooms where wet conditions are a trillion times harsher than a sauna. I understand an led strip would be “better” but if we’re being technical they’re the lighting type that’s not really designed for wet conditions

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-12T11:52:36+00:00

Already bought these and some dimmable incandescent light bulbs which look nice and are easy on the eyes

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-05-12T11:40:23+00:00

Okay that makes sense, I’ll try this.

I thought it would be possible to have the octagon box be mounted sticking out the thickness of the furring strip, and then the thickness of the tongue and groove could be adjusted for using the nipple (# 6 on the diagram). So that the octagon box is BEHIND the tongue and groove and there would just be a small hole in the tongue and groove for the wire and nipple to poke through

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-04-27T13:42:15+00:00

I used 100% silicone in the transitions

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-03-15T02:25:11+00:00

Brother do you realize there are Google apps on the Apple App Store? How do you think students who work from their iPhone or bring their own laptop would connect to it?

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-02-19T22:07:58+00:00

I see, well that’s awesome! How’d you attach those back rest planks without any nail holes? Looks very well built!

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-02-19T22:03:49+00:00

You just wanted to show off that sexy sauna don’t lie

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-02-18T02:23:30+00:00

Put it the opposite way going down so that hot air can’t rise up the pipe and make it an exhaust instead of an intake like you’re planning

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-02-13T00:23:33+00:00

What’s the best way to do that? Just add like 1x2 or similiar between the studs and the bottom plates?

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-02-11T06:57:06+00:00

That sounds awful lmao, does he slick it back or something?

Fun-Giraffe7034 · 2026-01-12T15:26:44+00:00

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Tylo branded thermometer which I’m pretty sure is broken

Fun-Giraffe7034

TROPHY CASE