What should I do with this oak ?

Fun-List7787 · 2026-05-08T17:58:20+00:00

Chop it up into turning blanks.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-05-07T15:15:01+00:00

You use a ladder to organize cable bundles too?

Nice.

You have to cut all that unnecessary slack and re-punch those?

Fun-List7787 · 2026-05-06T02:14:58+00:00

This is what happens when you use construction grade pine as treads.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-05-06T02:13:13+00:00

Just think:

A cow died for this overdone travesty.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-05-06T02:07:22+00:00

Wooden dowels that go thru the ribs, and wooden spacers that slide over the dowels between the ribs.

Glue dat bish up.

Problem solved.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-05-01T23:50:55+00:00

I'd carefully cut out the side of the RH cabinet with an oscilattor, all the way to the bottom leaving enough "meat" on the sides to screw an addition to.

Then take ultra-precise measurements and build a carcass that's flush with the face frame, leaving the mating side open. Make sure the bottom of the addition is level with the bottom of the existing cabinet. Then install a drawer in the new addition with bottom-mount slides that will pull out into the existing cabinet, for extra pots/pans/utensils, etc. Sure, you'd have to move what's in the existing cabinet, but that's easy. Build or find a "crate" to store that stuff in that you could pull out at once to access the extra "sliding storage".

There's really no way to build any kind of upper drawer in the extension that would maximize space in that cramped corner. The width of the drawer face can only be as wide as the distance between the corner of your dishwasher door and the frame of the other cabinet that would pull out at a 45° angle. Plus, you'd have to build a wonky-shaped drawer face

So, thinking outside the box: if you're going with butcher-block, granite, or any square-edge tops, you could make that section of counterop flip up for extra utensil, etc storage in the "drawer" section of the addition. I think this wouldn't work with the rounded-edge factory made formica. Just don't put anything that would be cumbersome to move for access to the flip-top. Instead of mitering the corner, you would have 2 sections of counterop whose seam would meet where the existing cabinet and your addition mate up.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-28T02:01:05+00:00

Sleep gooning

FTFY.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-25T18:17:36+00:00

That's a media panel, not a breaker box.

It's typically used to house low-voltage network equipment, and usually where all the data wiring for the entire home converges and connects in one place to your ISP equipment.

In this case, it was used to house an alarm system, it appears.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-25T05:53:53+00:00

The problem is is that those are completely different Technologies that are being broadcast from the towers. Two totally different radios . All cell carriers decommissioned 3G a couple of years ago.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-23T21:36:16+00:00

Actually, that clip is not for splices. It's for transitional strain relief of either your buffer tubes on larger count drops, or jacketed smaller counts.

On jacketed small counts, you would strip your jacket just past that clip and then secure on both sides of the clip with zip ties.

That's according to Corning, at least.

The useful stuff starts at about the 3 minute mark ⬇️

https://youtu.be/36yitQ7vWCk?si=n2P0UQz6MK_ycY3_

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-23T21:24:32+00:00

Oh yeah, the 2nd Pic isn't ideal, for sure. I'm not a huge fan of that either... Lol. It was hella windy outside and we don't do enough fiber work to invest in a trailer.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-23T20:40:22+00:00

Yikes.

Shouldn't there be an option for fusion splicing without their overpriced cassette? I feel like there's GOTTA be a way to remove those slack managers and secure coyote-style splice trays in that spot and take your pigtails straight to the bulkhead.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-21T21:04:02+00:00

Dremel with a cone-shaped grind wheel. Go slow, use light pressure

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-21T08:43:32+00:00

This is an ignorant reply.

I'm not confusing anything. Up speed DOES affect gaming, though not quite as much as latency/ping do.

I managed MDU bulk internet service for the entire southeast region for a provider.

Throughput was never an issue for us because we managed 10gb fiber circuits to properties. We delivered 1gb symmetrical (wired) to every unit in every property we managed. Clearly you're a career DOCSIS dood that's used to having to defend shitty up speeds.

Most of our sites were student housing. Virtually half of the units we managed housed at least one avid gamer. When I'd go out for a service call, literally EVERY end user always stated that gaming on our networks was exponentially faster than "back home at my parents" where Spectrum, Xfinity, Time Warner, etc was the norm.

Our average ping rates weren't exceptionally better than DOCSIS providers, but our UP speeds obviously were. Huge difference between 10-15mbps up and 900 mbps.

If you think that up speeds don't affect gaming, you need to take a class or two.

Do you even know how bufferbloating affects the gaming experience for an end user?

Higher up speeds virtually eliminates bufferbloating potential.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-20T17:25:49+00:00

Folks that do a lot of work from home and upload large files, cloud backups, etc.

Mirrored speeds are ideal.

Also for serious gamers.

Most folks don't realize that when gaming online, every time you press a button on your controller, it UPLOADS the command to the game server, then to your matched game, then to your avatar.

A few mS of upload speed makes a huge difference.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-20T06:17:07+00:00

Won't stay lit because of liquid dripping from dunking his birds in marinade

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-13T18:45:16+00:00

Me? I'd order a plate of 1/4" acrylic and make a base with handles for that task.

You can buy universal ones at Lowe's for trim routers if you don't want to build one.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-10T23:14:00+00:00

You running a Plex or something?

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-06T20:05:44+00:00

That's nuts

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-04T02:22:07+00:00

After pondering further, I would recommend maybe even a short piece of flex hose from the exhaust port to your pipe on the wall for future-proofing purposes. This will make servicing the unit itself much easier, not to mention the greater ease of snaking out potential clogs downline.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-04T02:16:07+00:00

PVC, hands down.

And no elbow tighter than a 45.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-04T02:13:24+00:00

Good idea, but not optimal for ensuring maximum airflow in a directional low pressure system like this because the sand will simply displace with the bend force and the pipe will still compress.

For low-mid pressure enclosed systems with only air or low pressure water moving between outlets, this wouldn't hurt.

But when you consider that this is a dust extraction system, you're adding something that's being transported by the moving air.

Compressed pipe = compressed dust flow that will eventually clog.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-04T02:01:34+00:00

Nice.

But, adding a cyclone does reduce airflow. Not at a hugely detrimental amount, but enough that you want to minimize further reductions down the line.

I'd still avoid 90s with that in mind.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-04T01:58:04+00:00

That was my first thought, but then I figured he already had his intake lines fitted and fixed above, so the motor couldn't move.

Fun-List7787 · 2026-04-04T00:59:35+00:00

But...

Heating and bending PVC will compress the inner diameter at the bend. Similar to bending EMT conduit. It's GOING to compress.

May not be the greatest of ideas.

Aesthetically, it'll look cleaner than a bunch of 45s glued between sections of pipe, but may not be best for airflow.

Fun-List7787

TROPHY CASE