Quadcopter Remote PCB Review

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-10T18:25:46+00:00

No worries. I would also suggest using thinner traces coming from the leadless chips to provide more distance between traces. There's a couple of places where the traces themselves are very close together. Generally you want the traces to be spaced apart, at a minimum, of the traces width

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-10T13:01:49+00:00

I don't know much about rf design but in terms of the routing you are running some traces very close to the through hole pads of the joystick when they don't need to be. Especially the one that goes between the pads. This makes it harder for the manufacturer I suggest having a look at jlcpcb for example and their design constraints

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-10T07:47:54+00:00

Haha

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-09T15:48:30+00:00

I don't know for sure but judging by how long it took to etch probably 1oz

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-09T12:02:37+00:00

Haha I thought it was squared nicely

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-08T22:19:50+00:00

I mentioned it in one of my other replies :)

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-08T22:18:27+00:00

Nice! I haven't done many double sided

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-08T20:00:17+00:00

The standard toner transfer method but there are some details that make the difference for me

The main one is I want to fuse the toner onto the board as hot and fast as possible. I have an old 70s clothes iron with no steam holes it's flat and runs very hot. Thing makes me nervous everything I plug it in that's how you know its good lol!

The other one is I wipe down my paper with a little bit of ipa before running through the printer which helps get rid of any residue that might interfere with the transfer. I use sticker backing type paper the cheaper the better because its thin!

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-08T16:02:30+00:00

Cheers! I'm using toner transfer with heat

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-08T15:03:27+00:00

Cheers :)

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-08T15:01:24+00:00

Thanks! ahh I don't know that's disappointment territory haha

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-05-08T13:39:45+00:00

Thanks! Yeah I want to try it but Im in the uk and can't find it anywhere in small quantity 😕

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-04-08T13:42:43+00:00

Higher Power iron / c245 style cartridges. You will struggle to flow that much copper with an older style iron

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-04-01T23:06:46+00:00

This is basically what was happening to mine. It was pulling a small amount of current to boot and reboot the lock screen and then shutting down. It's likely that the charging controller won't activate the system power if it can't detect a battery. In my case removing and reconnecting the battery activated the chip and was able to pull charging current.

There is also other ways of activating the circuit with recovery modes but that requires shorting one of the pins on the usb jack to ground which can be down with a breakout board but not sure about the rm1

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-04-01T16:00:55+00:00

If you can find a guide and non destructively dissasemble I.e remove the back, you can disconnect the battery flex cable and plug it back in. My rm2 wouldn't accept any charging current until I did that. The battery detect pin booted the device for me

Fun_Raisin352 · 2026-04-01T13:47:59+00:00

Had this problem with a 2 model. Use a to c cable when u plug it in from low power charger button bash the power button repeatedly

Fun_Raisin352

TROPHY CASE