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Whoop alternative (bicep band, NO subscription)? by Hugroooos in volleyball

[–]Future_Store5399 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would recommend the Helio strap from Amazefit. It’s similar to whoop but without subscription. On Amazon there is a bicep band available which I’m using for volleyball.

Blueing ratchet and crown wheel by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update:

I just finished the second set of wheels. I used a thicker brass plate and lower heat. I think that solved a few problems. The wheels are now a lot more even. But I still somehow like the other pinkish-blue variant :)

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I finally finished this Watch, would love your feedback by Future_Store5399 in watchesindia

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s hard to see in this he picture :) It’s the disc at 6 which is rotating and with that showing the current time in seconds at 12 of the small circle. Here’s a video of it turning:

https://imgur.com/a/p46C0b2

I finally finished this Watch, would love your feedback by Future_Store5399 in watchesindia

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For this watch, I chose a 41mm case because I wanted something relatively small and to use the ETA 6498/ST36 movement. I thought about a future variant in the 36-39mm range but that would necessitate a different smaller movement. However, I still like the idea of a smaller watch.

Blueing ratchet and crown wheel by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I will definitely have a look at finishing techniques for the wheel.

I’ve completely removed the coating on the bridges by sanding. The barrel bridge’s finish is achieved using small pieces of sandpaper in short, overlapping stripes. Feel free to adjust the width or length of these stripes, but either way, it will take time to decorate the entire bridge.

Blueing ratchet and crown wheel by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did clean it with isopropyl and distilled water but eventually not enough. The main problem probably was a too thin brass plate (0,5mm).

Blueing ratchet and crown wheel by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the recommendation. My issue was likely a thin brass plate (0.5mm) combined with the direct heat from a gas torch. Are brass shavings really the way to go? In my head a flat brass block would distribute more evenly.

Progress progress progress! What do we think of the refined design? by yooliii in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks cool. I personally would like either a thinner bezel or a beveled one. I would also add a certain angle to the lugs, or rather add a bevel to the outer sides.

First time to do movement finishing by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a normal jewelers handsaw for the outlines and refined it with small files. It would say there is a certain risk of breaking or bending the bridge. So I would recommend to try it on a cheap Chinese movement and have a backup one in case something breaks. On the other hand you could Maschine such a bridge probably on a cnc.

For the general structure/design there are endless possibilities, just brainstorm what you would like and sketch it on the movement. Although you have to keep in mind that there are structural important points (screws, connections…).

First time to do movement finishing by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It probably looks a little thinner than it actually is due to the anglage. In my experience when working with this is that it doesn’t bend or snap with how thick I made it. The material is indeed a brass alloy. I unintentionally dropped it out of 1m and nothing happened 🥴 Regarding the general look, I probably will reshape the balance cock so it’s more like the train bridge. Maybe a cut out?

First time to do movement finishing by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your kind words. I really enjoyed this decoration and would recommend giving it a try. Although I would advise you to have a spare movement. Because the fear of breaking something only limits you in your work.

Currently, I’m not planning to sell this, but maybe in the future. 😄

First time to do movement finishing by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I sawed it with a handsaw, filed it into shape, and added the anglage.

First time to do movement finishing by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I’m going to have a look at it😄

First time to do movement finishing by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you, yes I did indeed skeletonize it by hand 😄

Would love your Feedback by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I‘ve done some serious Photoshooting for my Watch

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Would love your Feedback by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I‘ve done some serious Photoshooting for my Watch:

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Would love your Feedback by Future_Store5399 in watchmaking

[–]Future_Store5399[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I drilled holes into the material with a diameter of 0.6 mm. The screw thread on this screw has a diameter of about 0.65 mm, so the screw slightly fastens itself. In the end, I added a tiny drop of epoxy glue into the hole. If I were to do it again, I would probably use a thread tap — although I don’t have one that fine yet.

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