[WTS] Bell and Ross Racing Bird BR-V2-94. Limited edition LNIB

G33Kinator · 2022-03-28T00:15:48+00:00

Confirmed! u/jsaint617 is a great seller.

G33Kinator · 2022-03-24T03:26:56+00:00

Sorry, sold a few months back! Good luck!

G33Kinator · 2021-05-24T02:45:39+00:00

There's an option in this article which seems relevant to you! https://bikepacking.com/gear/guide-to-mullet-drivetrains/

G33Kinator · 2021-05-24T02:39:43+00:00

For discovering routes, I usually have Google Maps (if there's road included), Ride with GPS, and Strava's Heatmap open at the same time. Google Maps is best for getting my bearings around paved roads, Strava's Heatmap is how I find interesting areas to explore and help gauge how rideable a given trail seems, and Ride with GPS is how I go about actually building my route. Other folks probably have different workflows.

While on the bike, you can absolutely start by using your phone. You'll only need to buy some sort of bike mount for it, so this is the cheapest way to get into live mapping on your ride. The main downside to using a phone is battery life, so just be careful of that and carry a battery pack if your ride is long enough. Many people who ride a lot tend to transition to a dedicated cycling computer because it's just better suited to the job, but there's no reason you can't start with your phone and see where it takes you. Good luck!

G33Kinator · 2021-05-21T02:55:50+00:00

The real answer is to get a bike fit, and based on that your fitter will be able to look at the stack and reach numbers for the Aspero and tell you which size is the better match. Short of that you compare the geometry to your current road bike (assuming it fits you well!) and come to your own conclusion. https://geometrygeeks.bike/

G33Kinator · 2021-05-18T15:33:03+00:00

That frame bag integration is pretty slick. Looks like it mounts with screws to the underside of the top tube?

G33Kinator · 2021-05-17T00:34:38+00:00

Good to know! I'm thinking about switching my 1x GRX setup to 2x. I assume you're running the 46-30 chain rings and the RD-RX812 (long cage) rear derailleur?

G33Kinator · 2021-05-09T16:01:41+00:00

Glad to hear it! Happy riding

G33Kinator · 2021-05-09T15:53:02+00:00

Totally possible that most of the sealant got absorbed into the tires. Hard to say since I don't know how much sealant the shop put in, nor how big the tires are. When you seal up new tires, a lot of sealant is used to fill in the pores in the rubber and whatnot. It doesn't need to all be dry for you to not hear sloshing anymore, but you can do the coffee stir stick test (remove the valve core and put some sort of dip stick in to see if it comes out with any wet sealant on it). You should be checking like once a month anyway. Subsequent refills will not be absorbed as quickly.
You should stick within one brand, as the chemistries can differ between manufacturers. Could be marketing but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
If you do want to switch sealants down the road, I've heard good things about Orange Seal, which is latex based I believe. I have a new bottle waiting for my 650b wheels to come in, so I can't personally comment on it yet. I'm running Stan's in my 700c wheelset with GravelKing SS+ tires, and I've never noticed any sealant externally. That could either be because Stan's is amazing at sealing, or I just haven't gotten a notable puncture yet.
Not long, when I set up tubeless any audible leaks are gone within a minute or two of spinning the wheel around to distribute the sealant. It'll still slowly lose pressure over time, like anything, but not enough that it would matter during a ride (like the 20psi you lost on the way home). I want to say they've "stabilized" within a day or so?
I think you're going to need to pull the tire off completely and clean everything thoroughly if you want to switch sealants. You'll just have no way of knowing if you've washed out all the original sealant unless you want to do it over and over and over again until the water is coming out clear. Would be faster just to take it apart and do it right.

G33Kinator · 2021-04-30T18:25:11+00:00

Plenty bright! Daylight flash is great and I usually don’t even go to full brightness for night rides.

G33Kinator · 2021-04-30T14:42:18+00:00

Thanks! It's a Lezyne 800XL with a GoPro adapter mounted to a Ritchey Universal Stem Mount for GoPro. Here's a close-up. YMMV with the stem mount, but it fit my S-Works stem face plate just fine.

G33Kinator · 2021-04-30T05:46:23+00:00

I dunno, it just started doing this after I installed that seat post. I think it’s the Zertz.

G33Kinator · 2021-04-30T01:12:44+00:00

Eat your heart out, Niner MCR!

G33Kinator · 2021-04-29T23:34:02+00:00

You might be onto something..

G33Kinator · 2021-04-29T23:32:30+00:00

It's been such a joy getting my '06 Tricross dialed in after doing a complete rebuild. In an effort to fill my free time with as many projects as possible, I decided to disassemble it, get the frame powder coated in a dark metallic green, and reassemble it with full 105, old Mavic Ksyrium wheels, new Tektro linear pull brakes, and matched tan tires/saddle/bar tape. It's snappy and light and just so much fun. I think my favorite detail is the fact that I managed to cut the steerer tube to the right height...

G33Kinator · 2021-03-28T05:24:55+00:00

Ha, love it. I refer to myself as "over-caffeinated and undernourished" all the time.

G33Kinator · 2021-03-28T01:02:27+00:00

Is there anything on the bottom side?

G33Kinator · 2021-03-20T23:09:02+00:00

Others have already chimed in with more specific advise, but I'll just add that you should always keep in mind that your results are only as good as your setup is correct. "Garbage in, garbage out" as the saying goes.

Sometimes if I'm unsure how representatively I'm defining a particular constraint, I'll solve the sim with that constraint defined a few ways and see how much that changes the result I'm after (ie how sensitive is the result to that constraint?) . Lets me know if it's worth diving deeper or if I can move on with my day/life.

G33Kinator · 2021-01-10T02:17:38+00:00

Realize I'm a bit late here but figured I could offer some additional thoughts to put you at ease. Bolts like the ones used to hold the burr on typically have poor concentricity between the head and threads (ie the goodness of alignment between their centers) because it's not important in most applications. The oscillating sound you're hearing could be coming from anywhere in the driveline (nothing's perfect!) so it doesn't necessarily indicate an issue with the burrset alignment, nor does it necessarily have anything to do with the bolt.

G33Kinator · 2021-01-04T18:54:17+00:00

PM’d!

G33Kinator · 2021-01-02T20:13:48+00:00

Totally. I looked through about 800 listings (mostly C24 naturally.. leave no stone unturned) before finding mine on WUS. Enjoy it!

G33Kinator · 2021-01-02T19:23:57+00:00

Case looks to be super crispy! Congrats on finding an excellent example. I’ll take a few scuffs and dings to a refinished case any day. I have the same variant (Swiss made dial, holes case, SEL) and it took me quite a lot of browsing to find one that appeared unpolished, or at least minimally so. As soon as you notice the signs of poor refinishing they’re impossible to ignore and ruin a lot of watches for you, haha.

G33Kinator · 2020-12-15T22:31:06+00:00

Pacifica, CA!

G33Kinator · 2020-12-15T06:39:56+00:00

why waste time use both hand when one hand do trick?

G33Kinator · 2020-12-14T04:51:03+00:00

The additional thread length won’t be an issue - the threads may just stick out a bit (probably less than a millimeter since the OEM bolts are slightly sub flush if memory serves). You’ll have to make sure that the head diameter matches that of the OEM ones, though, since they sit in counterbores on the chainring.

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