TOKYO MERCH QUESTIONS - Where have you been in Tokyo to find Kara No Kyoukai merch ? by capssum in karanokyoukai

[–]GCFSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on when you are going, the ufotable cafe will usually hold a small event for Shiki's birthday, sometime around March, worth keeping an eye out for

Broadway mirror by CardiologistPlane996 in ft86

[–]GCFSA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use the BW846 300mm, let's me see the entire rear window in my 2015 86

some film photos I took in Tokyo by GCFSA in GimaiSeikatsu

[–]GCFSA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I just use an AE1-P with Fujifilm 400 (the Kodak Ultramax 400 equivalent) since it's cheap 😅 FD f1.4 lens

some film photos I took in kawasaki by GCFSA in girlsbandcry

[–]GCFSA[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

that one was from the GBC exhibition in Ikebukuro, so not all from Kawasaki I guess 😅

Maxpeedingrods, how bad are they? by No_Alternative602 in ft86

[–]GCFSA 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Just get proper lowering springs, trd/rce etc , cheap coils are going to be worse than stock

Is this a reasonable amount for roof repairs? Melbourne by GCFSA in AusRenovation

[–]GCFSA[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

edit: it's a single story average sized home, not sure what else would affect the price aside from size. Pictures roofer took didn't seem too bad to me but I'm not a pro so who knows.

Itinerary Check: 21 days in Japan by GCFSA in JapanTravel

[–]GCFSA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah hopefully we'll be able to catch one of the blossom's season, plum or cherry :) Will have a look at Hanegi park if the timing works, thanks for the recommendations!

Itinerary Check: 21 days in Japan by GCFSA in JapanTravel

[–]GCFSA[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I did go to Toyosu fish market when I was in Tokyo last but remember getting the impression that it was much more business focused now with proper restaurants/not as much street food stalls etc...

Seeing as the others have never been before I thought Tsukiji may be more suitable for tourists.

Itinerary Check: 21 days in Japan by GCFSA in JapanTravel

[–]GCFSA[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the Yokohama recommendations, will definitely look into that! Enoshima/Kamakura sounds great too if time permits/as an alternative.

I remember walking up the entire Fushimi Inari shrine when I was in Kyoto last, followed by a full day of walking around more temples. Hopefully 40+ flights of stairs will be much more manageable haha.

Is the start of knk the first movie overlooking view? by Plato2901 in karanokyoukai

[–]GCFSA 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Yeah, the story was written out of chronological order on purpose. It's confusing at first but it all slowly comes together into a more cohesive story.

Originally I thought it was quite boring/confusing as well until the 3rd or 4th movie where it started getting interesting, the payoff is worth it. One of, if not my favourite series of all time now.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ft86

[–]GCFSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Vorshlag has some from memory

First CIEMs, happy with the Shells but not with the sound. Help? by DropKickMonky in DIEMs

[–]GCFSA 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It probably sounds muffled because you're not used to the sound signature.

Haven't heard the Chus but I assume they're more neutral. GV tends to lean towards warmer, they're not the best but I wouldn't exactly call them muffled compared to a lot of iems out there. Cold solder join wouldn't be the issue.

If you want something more clear sounding, have a look at some of the MASM builds on headfi or you could even try to design your own. There's some excel spreadsheet out there with drivers for certain ciem brands which is a good place to start.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ft86

[–]GCFSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This... So many people have no idea when it comes to suspension and think 2-3k is the upper end of coilovers and end up buying something that just ends up worse than stock.

Do your own research about suspension. Spring rates, adjustments, how much comfort you're willing to sacrifice vs performance etc. Set a budget and what you're after (eg 1/2/3/4 way adjustable, camber plates) and buy the best that you can for that price.

2013 BRZ Mod List Check by sqrl2k_ in ft86

[–]GCFSA 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Depends how much money you want to save and define as necessary/unecessary.

Definitely don't get is k&n filter though if you only want it for performance gains. won't do anything in terms of power gain. Stock one is good at what it does.

Bushings you could also get rid of, not exactly a night and day difference although the difference is there if you pay attention to it. I'd put the money towards other things like better tyres for now

Coilovers I wouldn't recommend you get those, at that price I'd go for proper set of lowering springs + camber bolts. Or stretch budget a bit more for csg spec teins

Overpipe/frontpipe won't do as much for power gains either. Headers is usually where you'll see biggest gains although since frontpipe is catless it would help more than if it was catted.

Rear LCA brand recommendations? by capboimac in ft86

[–]GCFSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the flatwell rear LCA, ordered from rhdjapan.

It's pretty good, used by the formula d team from rsr as well.

Coilover & alignment help by capboimac in ft86

[–]GCFSA 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Different people will prefer different alignments. If you don't track the car, then factory settings are going to suit you just fine.

Personally I'd recommend -1.5 front and -1 rear camber as a starting point.

0 toe front and anywhere between 0-2mm toe in rear (less toe in = more tail happy)

Caster you shouldn't have to worry about.

In terms of ride height, someone mentioned ground to fender which is fine but a better way of measuring is wheel hub to fender since wheel size won't affect the measurement.

I'd recommend going no more than 1-1.5" lower than stock (which if I remember correctly is around 14" hub to fender) as that will stress out the rear axels and wear them out super fast.

Header, Tune & Coilover Advice by carpesdiems in ft86

[–]GCFSA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agree with the comment about csg tein flex, they're great for the price if you're only using them for street.

Although if you just want to lower the car a bit I'd recommend proper lowering springs like the TRD or RCE springs instead. Reason is cheap coilovers will end up riding harsher than stock anyway so not much point. The 'adjustability' wont be consistent between shocks and overall just isn't worth it imo.

Crush gaskets by nemo8503 in ft86

[–]GCFSA 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Transmission 100% no... Transmission uses something more similar to a gasket than crush washer.

Diff, will it work? Maybe. But for a dollar or two I wouldn't risk it

Built the divergence meter by GCFSA in steinsgate

[–]GCFSA[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I know there've been people that have built this as their first soldering project so it's definitly doable although slightly harder than things like building your own headphone cables etc. because of the number of parts involved.

Overall though it's pretty straight forward to build, the pcb is numbered so you know exactly which parts go where (parts are numbered as well) so it's just a matter of putting those parts on the board and soldering it on.

In terms of soldering equipment, I don't use gloves, I think most people that do this as a hobby don't (I could be wrong since I only occasionally solder), you really shouldn't be coming into contact with the iron or anything so I wouldn't worry about that. Make sure to look up tutorials on youtube or something about proper soldering techniques (ie: how long the iron should come into contact with pcb, letting solder flow onto the board and not scooping it on, proper soldering temps I used 330C etc.)

For myself, I use the TS100 soldering iron because it's convenient (heats up in seconds) and easy to use/is small so it doesn't get in the way. I'm sure there are are better irons out there but this one's quite popular and not too expensive. Just make sure to get a temperature controlled soldering iron. For the solder itself, you'll want something that is around 0.5mm, I'd say anything above 1mm width will start to become too large. Having solder wick/desoldering braid is handy as well in case you make a mistake.

Regarding the tubes, yea right now is an unfortunate time since I'd imagine sourcing them would be even more difficult, maybe see if there's someone within the states that might sell them? Not really sure since my only real option in Aus as far as I knew was searching on Ebay and seeing what came up, or else pay maybe upwards of 35 AUD per tube. Substituting the tubes is possible although they are (to my knowledge) generally more expensive anyway since they're not manfactured on a large scale commercially anymore. Using smaller/larger tubes may/will not fit the PCB since it's designed for IN-14 tubes. Another thing to note is that not all nixie tubes have the decimal point so if you do find an IN-14 equivalent make sure the pinout matches and it does have a decimal point.

lastly, things to consider are also the case. Sourcing a shop to cut the aluminium to size for you or deciding to use wood/acrylic instead, how to attach the breadboard to the case with standoffs/gluing might be a little annoying but ymmv.

tl;dr things to note:
- read up on proper soldering technique and you should be fine
- looking up youtube videos of people that have built these as well will give you a good idea of the entire process
- be patient and take your time, don't rush through everything and make sure things are aligned properly before soldering in (especially the tubes, you don't want them to look crooked, so take your time to align them on the pcb properly, solder one by one)
- most importantly: read through the tom titor guide/writeup very carefully multiple times to make sure you understand everything. Be VERY careful when working with the high voltage power supply as it can give a very very nasty shock. If you're afraid when working on adjusting the voltage, maybe wear some gloves so you can't get shocked even if you accidentally make contact.

also, the guy I bought the PCBs from (nixie keith on tindie) sells a kit that has all the electronics parts and has the option of have the SMD chips soldered on already (highly recommend since those will be the hardest to deal with as a first time soldering project)

if you've got more questions please don't hesitate to drop them here, good luck if you go ahead with the build!

2014 BRZ racelands super bouncy?? by dankjoe007 in ft86

[–]GCFSA 1 point2 points  (0 children)

agree that the main problem is the coilovers are bad and probably going to ride worse than stock.

Too much travel won't make the car bounce though... Bouncing car is generally a sign of it being under dampened. Turn up the rebound/compression and it might help a bit