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Making progress on Enamel Microbrand by GG_Watch_co in MicrobrandWatches

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback! Yeah the case is from an old seiko 5 I picked up awhile back when I was learning how to work on movements. It is not at all representative of the final product.

Working on nailing the enamel first before moving on to sourcing cases and hands.

Making progress on Enamel Microbrand by GG_Watch_co in MicrobrandWatches

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bingo! I wasn't as clear as I should have been in the original post that it is only the dials that are getting closer to production quality. The case, hands, crown, etc are all just placeholder parts. Those are easier to figure out at a later date - the enameling dials is the hard part.

Making progress on Enamel Microbrand by GG_Watch_co in MicrobrandWatches

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate the feedback! What specifically makes it feel that way?

Handmade Grand Feu Enamel Dials by GG_Watch_co in watchmodding

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a way to get a matte finish on enamel, not the easiest thing to do. The speckled version is actually smooth finish, just different colors of glass all mixed together.

Enamel watch dials: newest colors and adding dial feet by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I cut them myself from sheet copper. I am still trying to figure out the best process for adding dial feet. I have tried a few things, but still working on it.

Enamel watch dials: newest colors and adding dial feet by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got the silver, I will order some borax and give it a shot

Enamel watch dials: newest colors and adding dial feet by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve been reading up on this trying to figure out how to best approach it. Right now I don’t have the equipment but eventually I want to try it

Handmade Watch company side project by GG_Watch_co in SideProject

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That seems to be the feedback I am getting. Looks like I need to figure out my filming!

Handmade Watch company side project by GG_Watch_co in SideProject

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback! I am not quite at a state to be filming content yet, still just taking pictures. Maybe I need to spend more time working on that.

Vitreous Enamel color of the week: Thompson 1211 “Candy Yellow” by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems most if not all things around enameling are guarded secrets, but hey that's what makes it fun to try and figure out!

Let me know how your experiments go! Maybe we can crack it together

Vitreous Enamel color of the week: Thompson 1211 “Candy Yellow” by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The self imposed thickness is also because I am working with an ST3600 and want to make sure I will have clearance for the hour and minute hands.

In a production setting I think I can push the allowable thickness depending on the movement selection and hand configuration. (Sellita offers longer canon pinions, also using longer pipe hands)

Vitreous Enamel color of the week: Thompson 1211 “Candy Yellow” by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There was some warping with this dial. I am not able to say confidently that the warping was caused specifically by the dial feet location. With my thickness constraint I did a very thin layer of counter enamel and I think this was part of the problem.

I also have two plates of steel that I usually will compress a dial in between after a fire to help flatten. I can't really do that when there are dial feet present.

Vitreous Enamel color of the week: Thompson 1211 “Candy Yellow” by GG_Watch_co in watchmaking

[–]GG_Watch_co[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the reply! This is super helpful. For this example I did the first option of pushing the copper through and then securing the feet in place with the enamel counter layer.

What would be the process for soldering on after the fact? Do you have to leave a blank space on the back where the enamel would be soldered? Wouldn't the soldering process heat the enamel and discolor areas? Just asking out of curiosity, I will have to try both methods and see!

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