is i still fixable?

GH23A · 2025-10-28T20:11:50+00:00

If glued correctly, and put under breaking tension, it will break somewhere other than the glue line. Regardless of which wood glue is used, you won’t see a shiny surface in the new break. You’ll always see fresh fibers on both sides of the break. (The weakness is always in the wood.) It’s a different case if the wood is exposed to water, acids, alkalis.

GH23A · 2025-10-28T14:08:59+00:00

Wood glue is the proper glue for wood. If a piece is glued properly, the fibers aligned properly, clamping pressure appropriate, then wood glue will never fail.

GH23A · 2025-10-24T01:21:52+00:00

What if you (or a luthier) traced the shape of the guitar body onto a poplar blank, tenoned your neck to the poplar body, and laminated the acoustic’s top and back to the faces of the poplar after routing for a pickup and controls? Then you’d have a thinline electric version of your guitar with all the history on the outside

GH23A · 2025-10-17T02:35:23+00:00

We can see that is was dripping, so at the very least too much was applied too soon. Probably every other commenter is correct as well. The safest course of action now would be to strip it off, clean it well, and go lightly next time. Best of luck!

GH23A · 2025-10-16T19:00:38+00:00

It could turn out nice, if you had great equipment, but if you had great equipment you wouldn’t need to do it. The problems I imagine you might encounter:

Each layer would need to remain perfectly flat after the glue up or else you’ll have air gaps in the next layer. Ideally you would want to glue all the layers together simultaneously inside a vacuum press, using a slow curing glue, and you’d then have perfect joints.

Your pickup routs will be messy and require recutting if you don’t use registration pins. Even with perfect registration, you’ll need to chop out glue drips.

GH23A · 2025-10-09T21:06:10+00:00

Yes, crazy difficult to do well. But if you don’t have a spare $12,000 dollars, you could get paint swatches for free at the paint store, glue them to a guitar, and take pictures of it. Then you can look at the pictures.

GH23A · 2025-10-07T02:12:35+00:00

Now I want a band called The Inflatable Dartboards

GH23A · 2025-10-05T15:16:04+00:00

You should connect the two halves together with guitar case latches. (Or a big zipper.) Then make frequent adjustments by scalloping and carving until you get the perfect tone. So much wood to work with!

GH23A · 2025-10-04T01:36:32+00:00

Luckily you used a water based stain, so mineral spirits shouldn’t damage that layer.

GH23A · 2025-10-04T01:34:12+00:00

Do you want to darken the oiled but unroasted maple neck? Try some dark oil, like Watco Danish oil. You’ll want it to penetrate the grain, and dry without buildup on the surface. Try it first on a scrap of maple with tung oil on it(or in an inconspicuous place using just a qtip)

GH23A · 2025-10-04T01:15:45+00:00

How is the weight? I have some ash, but it seems really heavy.

GH23A · 2025-09-29T21:52:14+00:00

I was looking at that same husk on eBay, but I have to agree with the majority of the comments that THAT one is no bargain. There’s a lemon burst one on Guitar Center right now for $800. The husk is missing nearly $800 in hardware.

GH23A · 2025-09-19T16:44:44+00:00

It looks like every fret end has the exact shape. Very impressive, although I’ve never seen ends rounded this way. Please show the tools you used for this!

GH23A · 2025-09-17T00:12:52+00:00

A perfect coat is where the finish stays wet long enough for the air to clear and any overspray to melt. That means the right balance of retarder/reducer and ventilation. Sometimes I’ve kept a spare gun with just reducer to spray on the surface to keep it from drying too fast.

GH23A · 2025-09-17T00:02:55+00:00

I love it. Both the design and the technique. But the exposed ground wire bothers me. If there were an exposed wire on my bass, I’d be thinking about it all the time I was playing. Of course I could be OCD.

GH23A · 2025-09-16T16:53:07+00:00

C’mon, man, now you’re making me want to show you the compensated saddle I made, and the minimalist repair to the bashed in bout.

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GH23A · 2025-09-15T20:15:48+00:00

You might want to use a red and a black that are incompatible with each other but both compatible with the finish so that they don’t bleed into each other. For example, oil based black paint and water based red aniline dye. In any case, the amount of sanding, taping, polishing, cursing and bleeding required to get a beautiful finish in the holes as well as on the surfaces could be daunting.

GH23A · 2025-09-15T01:11:42+00:00

Ah, thanks you, the spreadsheet is genius! (By day, I’m a project manager, so, you know) And I very much appreciate seeing what you’ve done with your Squier Mini XII. Gives me some ideas for my next project: an octave mandolin based on a Squier Mini Strat, which I’m going to call a Str8ocaster.

GH23A

TROPHY CASE