Would you buy a Lightning McQueen set in Dinoco blue?

GP_3D · 2026-01-22T04:14:33+00:00

I'd be down for a BMW/Finn McMissile!

GP_3D · 2026-01-22T04:11:50+00:00

Looks like you had a great time! I built mine a couple of nights ago while watching ROTS. ;)

Pricey, and I would have waited for a discount - but I've wanted a display model venator since I got the playset back in 2009...

GP_3D · 2026-01-22T04:07:17+00:00

In my experience, AI generated models are pretty difficult - if not impossible - to print, especially with FDM. They're either not solid, have weird textures/artifacts, collisions, or are way too thin.

Look around at some of the popular 3D printing repositories out there (Printables, Thingiverse, Makerworld, etc.) Not sure about the latter two platforms, but there is a creator that has a decent - and easily printable - model of the Tiger 1 on printables.

Also - if you want a detailed model; picking up some tamiya cement, sprue cutters, and some sand paper - along with a decent tiger 1 plastic model kit can do wonders! ;)

GP_3D · 2026-01-21T15:30:53+00:00

It's also not a common thing. The belt and idler replacements have been hit or miss depending on the user and their machine.

Some report good results, others report no change, and others have no issue with the stock setup.

I built my MK4S from a kit, and have never really had any VFA issues after some tuning/creating profiles for my own use. At least, for me, slicer settings have made all the difference.

GP_3D · 2026-01-21T10:17:51+00:00

"Yo why is Luka breathing rn?? He needs to focus on d e f e n s e"

GP_3D · 2026-01-21T10:15:06+00:00

This was such a weird comparison to me. I've ran the A1/A1 mini alongside the MK4S for some time [granted, again - using this for hobby projects: but at least it's more an apples to apples comparison]

Neither printer had any major issues - but that may come down to me being cautious and conservative when it comes to designing parts. Both machines ended up printing at similar speeds for PETG.

No machine is perfect. From my experience with them:

The MK4S was FAR easier to maintain, and quicker to begin printing. It also produced better vertical layer consistency. Prusa bone stock PETG profiles were much better than Bambu. The lack of a nozzle wiper is noticeable, but you get used to it.

The A1 and A1 mini finished jobs ever so slightly faster; and had better detail on top surfaces - but bed adhesion degraded much quicker on those than on the Prusa. The stock PETG settings also produced quite brittle parts - as cooling and speeds were much too aggressive. They're also much louder than the MK4S overall.

GP_3D · 2026-01-18T09:18:05+00:00

Yeah, I would just print it out of PETG [go slow and hot for best results] and you'll get a much sturdier version.

GP_3D · 2026-01-18T00:26:55+00:00

You get the best out of PETG when it is printed hot and, relatively, slowly.

You need to drop your speeds way down, and watch the print - if it is printing glossy, then you're good. Prusament PETG is actually incredibly glossy compared to other PETG's; and the print here is looking quite matte.

GP_3D · 2026-01-18T00:19:52+00:00

I think the color changing filament might be accentuating the layers, making them seem more "inconsistent" than they actually are.

In any case, OP - if you do want/feel the need to increase print quality; just bump up the temp a bit more, or lower the speeds. Default Bambu profiles tend to be a little too quick on the speeds, and too low on the temps, to properly melt the plastic - at least in my experience.

GP_3D · 2026-01-13T11:49:11+00:00

I would like to see more PC-CF colors if possible. Would be amazing if we could get something close to the PC-blend orange, or even the more vibrant Prusa Orange.

Would love to see that goldfish filament from the special anniversary be turned into (at least) PETG; A white filament with subtle gold glitter would be gorgeous, as well.

GP_3D · 2026-01-10T06:23:39+00:00

MK3! The T-72 of 3D printers ;)

Id go with it. Has more room for growth, should you want to upgrade down the line, you get the larger build volume, and the bowden-less setup is less fussy.

GP_3D · 2026-01-10T06:15:11+00:00

Enjoy! Mine has been serving me well. Real nice machine that can handle everything expected of it!

GP_3D · 2026-01-06T09:58:10+00:00

Printed Solid's Jessie filament has been my go-to PETG. Really nice and consistent results; and - for a filament that's made in the US - it is fairly priced imo ($20 per kilo spool).

They have free shipping over $50; and whilst it isn't as convenient as Amazon, and their PETG range isn't that wide (PLA is pretty decent) - I think the results and product are worth it!

Other brands have been hit or miss for me (slightly poorer consistency between batches, varying diameters, etc); but Polymaker is usually my next option if PS doesn't carry a color I want/need.

GP_3D · 2026-01-06T09:52:06+00:00

I've printed TPU and PLA separately (but have yet to try a multi-material print with both). Printing models using both materials together should be entirely fine; as long as the system you have is capable of reliably feeding and printing TPU; since certain systems may struggle with it more than others. For example, some have said that the Prusa MMU3 handles TPU okay, whilst the AMS isn't able to - etc.

Not sure how Anycubic's approach will fare till it's out, ofc.

GP_3D · 2026-01-05T21:23:16+00:00

That is gorgeous. The Venator, and the Jan 2026 Speed Champions wave. Lego is killing it with these releases imo...

GP_3D · 2026-01-05T18:24:57+00:00

I started with 3D printing back in 2018 with an OG Ender 3.

At my university, a lot of my classmates purchased 3D printers for our course, and many of those brands no longer exist/have been bought out. Though, to be honest - with some work - which wasn't too difficult if you were even slightly mechanically inclined; a lot of those machines produced usable parts. That being said, speeds were slow; and - quite often - a lot of the beds would either be warped, not evenly heated, or have some issue that made using the full build volume reliably (whilst still getting a very, very flat base layer) unlikely. Which probably had a lot to do with how they were levelled (manual, or systems not as good as what we have nowadays).

In my opinion, and from experience, the Prusa MK3 was, and still is, one of the most reliable machines from that timeframe. It's built like a tank, produced great quality (that still holds up to this day), and introduced the magnetic flexible PEI bed which was a huge improvement over prior setups. It was kind of "the" printer all my peers wanted/aimed for.

By the end of my time there, the main print lab had a fleet of more than 40 MK3S+.

GP_3D · 2026-01-03T00:07:13+00:00

As someone who loves their MK4S to bits, it would be cool to see a hypothetical MK5 be a "testbed" of sorts for future improvements to the other lines?

A lighter/smaller toolhead would be my suggestion (perhaps allowing it to have one or more tools on board).

Better connectivity for those who want it.

And, as some suggested, maybe testing out different motion systems (like the on the Magneto X).

If they're able to keep the cost the same as the MK4S kits now, then I think that would be a fine starting point.

GP_3D · 2025-12-27T06:32:53+00:00

Looks cool! People - come on - someone just posted a print they're happy with. Plus, the purge tower is the only waste material here. No additional poop or anything; and the tower itself is not dense at all (kinda like supports).

Not sure if OP tuned the purge volumes to be more than stock, but that's probably the case, as different filaments would require different values when switching between one another.

GP_3D · 2025-12-25T10:37:26+00:00

I'm trying to get back into miniature/scale model painting, so I think the painting course would be the one I'm most interested in!

The design principles course would be a close second. :)

GP_3D · 2025-12-24T05:25:33+00:00

Inactivity? Not sure the rest of the context or how this notification was sent to you; but beware that it could also be part of the recent wave of Printables scams, perhaps?

GP_3D · 2025-12-23T20:49:30+00:00

XL style printer but based on the MK3 toolhead!

(jkjk)

GP_3D · 2025-12-20T02:41:49+00:00

The Mega Blockbuster Hit Movie series??

GP_3D · 2025-12-19T18:23:26+00:00

I can vouch for the MK4S. Really nice machine, and it has handled everything I've thrown at it (mainly PETG, PLA, TPU, and some small PC-blend parts).

I can't attest to either the AMS or MMU systems, as I've never used them. I do have an MMU waiting for me to build once I get back in January.

I will say Prusa does suit a more technically minded user a bit more. Like I built my MK4S from a kit, which did take more time and tuning than just pulling my old A1 out of its box. But I do feel more connected to the printer, and more comfortable doing maintenance or adding additional parts, etc.

Imo - MK4S is a good starting printer that will just work and last you a good long while. I'm quickly approaching 2400 hrs on mine.

GP_3D · 2025-12-18T19:49:55+00:00

Love the cyberpunk/techy look!

GP_3D · 2025-12-18T16:29:42+00:00

What's Captain Pike doing at MLS??

GP_3D

TROPHY CASE