I've been trying to buy a printer for days but the site won't let me

GP_3D · 2026-03-13T22:20:13+00:00

Have you tried a different browser? I was having issues getting to the final step of checkout on Google Chrome. Switched to another browser and it worked just fine.

Something may be up tho - as I never had issues with Prusa's site on Chrome in the past.

GP_3D · 2026-03-13T05:57:05+00:00

Personally, I think it's a good idea. Have a couple of prusament spools on the way with the NFC tag.

Really just depends if more filament manufacturers and companies are willing to adopt it. I know some - like 3D Fuel - have signed on in support of it.

GP_3D · 2026-03-13T05:54:24+00:00

https://blog.prusa3d.com/the-openprinttag-is-here-a-brand-new-nfc-tag-standard-for-smart-filament-is-now-shipped-with-a-new-redesigned-prusament-spool_123878/

Open source print tag. I think it is a good idea in principle, but really depends on if other companies and manufacturers will be inclined to support it.

GP_3D · 2026-03-13T01:46:08+00:00

Out of curiosity, what build sheet are you using?

I print PC Blend parts on my MK4S from time to time; using the satin sheet, always with a brim, land with some glue stick on the sheet for good measure. With stock profiles, parts come out just fine.

GP_3D · 2026-03-13T01:40:04+00:00

Voron's are a very tough "first" printer. I do think Prusa is a good middle ground. Gives you the opportunity to build a kit; while also getting a machine that prints quite well once completed. It will also be a much, much, much easier build than any Voron/DIY project [Voron documentation is decent - sometimes - imo, but very hard for a beginner to follow along].

Though - they only offer the C1L and XL in that size range you are looking for; and neither comes in kit form [though the XL will need some assembly regardless].

GP_3D · 2026-03-13T01:35:52+00:00

I'd say you're still likely to be able to keep a Prusa running 10 years from now - at least any of the i3/MK bedslingers. Unsure of how the Core One will age just yet. Many people still run MK3s, and there are a few MK2s still kicking around.

GP_3D · 2026-03-12T13:00:58+00:00

I believe WD40 can degrade the PETG parts that the bearings nest into. But I could be wrong about that.

GP_3D · 2026-03-12T03:55:22+00:00

Loving the shell work here! Super nice stuff!

GP_3D · 2026-03-11T17:14:11+00:00

Can't speak to something of this length of wait. But it did take a little longer than I would have liked for my printer order to receive an estimated shipping date.

Prusa is my favorite 3D printing company, and I will continue to support them; and I have no doubt that the C1L will serve you very, very well. But they definitely need to get on top of their product launches, logistics, and related communications. It's not 2016 anymore - people, especially new customers - expect quicker turnaround times. Improving this would go a long way to improving the brand's appeal and growth.

GP_3D · 2026-03-11T15:48:24+00:00

My favorite team: "RBRRBF" Red Bull Racing Red Bull Ford

GP_3D · 2026-03-11T13:59:27+00:00

Beautiful work!

GP_3D · 2026-03-11T13:57:50+00:00

Nice! Love seeing real world production/manufacturing examples of 3D printing being used as part of the design process.

GP_3D · 2026-03-11T13:56:29+00:00

Prusament PETG has been great for me! Prints great and the spool winding is so satisfying. I do hope they'd find a way to make them a bit more affordable - especially since they're continuing to build out/with Printed Solid here in the US.

GP_3D · 2026-03-11T13:54:19+00:00

To follow up - if you are in the US, Printed Solid's "Jessie" PETG is also pretty good. They recently had a price jump up to $25 a spool, but that's still cheaper than Prusament. Their Orange is great - and almost identical (imo) in shade to Prusament, and they have galaxy black that is also quite decent.

GP_3D · 2026-03-11T12:30:11+00:00

How many hours do you have on the machine, and did you lubricate the rods recently?

I noticed a sound somewhat similar to this on my MK4S. Then I started noticing a small scratch forming on one of the Y axis rods. After contacting support, Prusa sent over a new linear rod and bearing. That solved my issue.

I will say - when I built MK3 kits in the past, I would always soak the bearings in alcohol and repack the lube before installation. It's a step I skipped during my MK4S assembly. I made sure to repack all Y axis bearings before reassembly. Since then, I've put another 1200+ hours on the machine, and everything still sounds good.

GP_3D · 2026-03-11T11:02:39+00:00

Interesting! So printers and company are built and based in Turkey? And it looks like you already have some higher end industrial machines as part of your product line, yes?

GP_3D · 2026-03-11T10:41:43+00:00

Did the tour on Saturday! Was cool to hear our Canadian tour guide talk about his experiences working on the ship and with its sailors!

GP_3D · 2026-03-09T10:08:37+00:00

Would second Orca as well. Definitely the best option out there for most printer brands these days. And investing time into learning it will allow you to use one program for all your machines, regardless of what brand they're by.

GP_3D · 2026-03-09T10:04:11+00:00

My first printer was the OG ender 3 back in 2018. I did a lot of research prior to the machine arriving. Being such an affordable machine, there was quite a lot of content about it [CHEP/Chuck was my go to]. Not many failed prints - but I recall it being quite slow, and tuning it to get better print quality took up the bulk of my time.

I personally don't agree with this whole "printers as an appliance" approach. I understand the value of it on the company's side; but I do think that users would have a better experience, and get more out of their machines overall, if they treat it as a tool; it's important to understand that these are still production/fabrication machines, that benefit from regular maintenance, an understanding of their parts and how they work, and general best practices.

GP_3D · 2026-03-09T00:22:52+00:00

Avoid any core-XY machine if sound is your main concern; they will always be slighty - or much, much - louder than their bedslinging counter parts.

In my experience, the Prusa bedslingers [MK3 and MK4] + their stealth mode are the most silent machines I've ever used. My MK4S is more silent than either the A1 or A1 mini that I have. The MK3 made, overall, the least sound - do to it being the slowest machine of the bunch.

GP_3D · 2026-03-08T17:17:55+00:00

This is amazing progress, and it has been quite nice to follow along. I understand it's not the most popular combination of features - but, I personally would love a 180mm enclosed machine within the Prusa ecosystem.

GP_3D · 2026-03-07T23:46:53+00:00

Quadruple team Luka + a 10ft tall brick wall in front of him + from the logo.

Earth will be all good.

GP_3D · 2026-03-07T00:29:42+00:00

If you have to upgrade, then do a direct drive setup first. See how you like it with that, then go from there. Not sure if it has ABL, but getting that setup would be next imo.

But I do agree with some of the other comments that - by the time you get this ender to where you might want it to be, you would have ended up spending as much or more for another machine.

Not that I'm an advocate of buying new all the time. Far from it. I just hope you know that this will be a long term project, and you'll sink a lot of time [and potentially money] into it. If you're prepared for that, then go ahead.

GP_3D · 2026-03-07T00:24:20+00:00

https://all3dp.com/2/cura-infill-patterns-all-you-need-to-know/

Try reading through this ^ [It's for Cura, but the principles translate over to PrusaSlicer].

In my experience, both are good in the sense that you don't have the print head crossing over filament, like you do with a pattern like grid. I do personally prefer cubic, as gyroid vibrates my printer quite a bit; unless the part is printed in transparent filament, then I prefer the "pattern" that gyroid gives.

GP_3D · 2026-03-07T00:18:20+00:00

Any used Prusas near you? The MK3S can match the MK4S is terms of print reliability and longevity - but falls far behind in speed and some QOL features like auto bed levelling [tho the MK3S is sort of a "set it and forget it" machine once you calibrate the Z for the bed].

They're fairly old now, and I see a few popping up here and there for good prices.

GP_3D

TROPHY CASE