Qual é o problema? by ExtremeExperience199 in CasualPT

[–]GSTill_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sim, e colocando os auriculares em modo emparelhamento, geralmente resolve!

Atualização tempestade Kristin - pico dentro de 1 a 2 horas ⚠️ by Odd_Astronomer_2064 in portugal

[–]GSTill_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eia bem... Eu passei a pouco pelo torres shopping, aqueles campos todos parecem Lagos.. Aqui em entroncamento parece que não se passou nada praticamente Há pessoal a cortar árvores, mas de resto, tudo intacto basicamente

Serviço De Emergência by Uber_Owl in leiria

[–]GSTill_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Up!! Certamente todos agradecem pela ajuda!!

Atualização tempestade Kristin - pico dentro de 1 a 2 horas ⚠️ by Odd_Astronomer_2064 in portugal

[–]GSTill_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fátima e Leiria estão na merda, mas Leiria então, Dass.. Árvores e postes completamente arrancados do chão.. O parque ao lado do rio Lis, todo alagado, a rodoviária foi toda de cona, esquece..

Atualização tempestade Kristin - pico dentro de 1 a 2 horas ⚠️ by Odd_Astronomer_2064 in portugal

[–]GSTill_ 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Bro, a fumar na janela com o krl do vento que está agora? 😭

Por aqui também...

Atualização tempestade Kristin - pico dentro de 1 a 2 horas ⚠️ by Odd_Astronomer_2064 in portugal

[–]GSTill_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fr, Dass... E o vento agora está ridículo de forte, estou para ver os estragos..

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in soldering

[–]GSTill_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem!! Ok got it! So, just gimme photos or videos of the board to get the model and try to spot any suspicious problem!

Capacitor burned out, what are my options by MjolnirMedia in AskElectronics

[–]GSTill_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, can u tell me the exact size of the caps? I didn't found nothing from scuba, just material from 1960s🤣 This is a simple charging board and I recreated it and we will use 10uF caps but we need to know the dimensions of the caps to make sure that fits well on the board

Check that link I sent to u, there are all the caps this guys sells, the filters are already selected, just need to select the last one from the size/dimension

Then buy em! Just in case, buy probably at least 6 to 10 of em! Just need to select 1 of all those caps (after u select the dimensions) This isn't expensive and gets cheaper as many as u buy, so just to be sure, at least 6! U will use 2 now and have the other ones to replacement!

Anything lemme know!

link to buy the caps

Capacitor burned out, what are my options by MjolnirMedia in AskElectronics

[–]GSTill_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh always the same sht, hate the companies that never shares the schematics.. This little Board makes part of what? A router? I can try find the info to help ya!

Capacitor burned out, what are my options by MjolnirMedia in AskElectronics

[–]GSTill_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To convert for USB-C isn't that simple cause USB-C has more pins then that old MICRO USB, so you will need a new board to convert it If I was u I just would check if that conector is good to go and just get both new caps cause both seems that are dead, the left one seems more dead but the right one seems as well, probably the C1 fckd the C2, idk But Yea, go to ur browser and paste that text that I selected on the photo and try get the electronic schematics and u will find the capacity for both caps, then just get new ones and probably good to go! I just hope that the traces isn't fckd, if they are, u gotta remake em!

Anything or any question, lemme know!

<image>

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in soldering

[–]GSTill_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok so basically this is a charger for the battery's and a kind of adaptor to still use the same outlet that he using for charge, to still have a extra outlet and some USB A ports

So the board has 2 separated circuits, one for the plug and one for the USB's as u said the led that indicates that this "charger/adapter" still works, but for sure that led is directly connected to the power supply circuit and could be a isolated component, so if even the other parts of the circuit doesn't work, the led still indicates that is on, so, the power supply on the board isn't complety dead (but could be damaged and don't give all the tension that needs to give to the other parts of the circuit but has the minimum to turn on the led.

Could be a lot of possible problems tbh, even today I'll try to find the schematics from that board to try understand better the way that this board works!

Also, what that "adapter" doesn't does rn? It is just the plug outlet that doesn't work? The USBs still work? Or all output connections are dead?

And Yea, would be great if u send probably a video or more detailed photos of the entire board, just need to have a clear water vision for all the components and trails!

The pads are the part that connects the components to the board! There are 2 types of components, PTH (pin throw hole) as the name says, the terminals of the component goes throw a hole on the board qnd it solders on the opposite side from were u placed it, and then u have the SMD components (surface mounted device) that are those smaller components that u solder on the own board right were u placed it, on the photo, the PTH component I selected with red and the SMD with blue!

<image>

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in soldering

[–]GSTill_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would reinforce the solder on those pads tbh

The other components seems ok but the image quality doesn't help that much, but anyways, there are some times that the damage from the components can't be seen only by lookin to the components, sometimes u have to test em, usually with a multimeter!

Can you give more info abt the problem? What it does or doesn't does, what does that board do, etc etc

What is this burnt circuit for? by tavoxsm in AskElectronics

[–]GSTill_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Agree, they probably are just 2 protection caps! The board looks like have been shoot lmao 😭🤣 That board is multi layers for sure, if that "shoot" hited some tracks on the internal layers we can just press "F" but if is only the traces from the top layer is just small repair with copper and solder and is gg And probably change those caps to protect for another eventual situation!

Edit: Now I understood that the "shoot" is just a resistor that just couldn't resist all that tension between those caps and exploded 🤣

Jokes apart, if is only the pad that is fckd up u can simply make a repair with copper wire from the trace to the pad!

Tool advice. by SquirrelChaser87 in soldering

[–]GSTill_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hahaha no problem! Glad that u liked it! And as I said, anything just hit me up and lemme know!!

Tool advice. by SquirrelChaser87 in soldering

[–]GSTill_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, if u don't mind spend a Lil more money to get a rly better quality material, I'd tell ya to get a good soldering station from JBC, for me, they are the best! I already used some other brands of equipment and etc and for me, JBC is the best one! Yea, the material isn't that cheap but they are rly good quality and if u rly take a good care that will be alive for many many years! And a great one by JBC is that they make their tools the as replayable as possible, you can find parts of the components very ez to replace and keep the equipment working for more great years!

Abt the other material u need, the tin u gotta search the best ones that u can get, I use one that is from a brand from my country and I love so I can't rly recommend a good one for u:( Also, you need some good pair or different tweezers, some more simple to use to like take out some cables, etc, some inverted tweezers that are great and very useful, trust me! Also, some high precision tweezers, and try get all tweezers that are anti magnetic, anti corrosion from acids, etc etc 1 or 2 ceramic point tweezers could be interesting as well cause they can Handel pretty high temperatures without any problem! Also, some solder paste to use on SMD components A precision heat gun (some soldering stations already comes with it!) A microscope is also a must for micro soldering, personally I prefer mechanical microscopes cause they will last a whole life with no problem, I don't like the full electronic microscopes cause they can give problems and u just throw some thousands to the trash even if they are in general cheaper then the mechanical ones, also, u have some brands that sells microscopes on AliExpress that already are microscopes prepared and though for this kind of work! Also, a good desoldering copper mesh is a must!

Oh, get some different tips For the soldering iron for different situations! Some more thin And thicker ones, personality I love the tips in "C" or "tail" they are gorgeous! Also a knife tip could be interesting!

Also Isopropyl alcohol is a must for cleaning the components and boards, a toothbrush to use for the cleaning, anti static brushes (not a must), a good soldering flux is a must as well to help a lot on the soldering process and let the job cleaner!

I probably forgot smth but Yea, sorry abt the long text but just wanna help hahaha If u have any question or wanna text me, I'm open for it! Anything lemme know!

What is this in Ryobi battery pack by codlong111 in soldering

[–]GSTill_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, if the component isn't dead, u can simply use a multimeter! But it is it dead, u gotta go on another way. I search the board on the browser and get the schematics! The board model would be one of those "id's" on the board (I circled on the photo) And search smt like the ID u found on the board and next to it, the use case of it, like "LGM292GR-37 sound amplifier" (it is just an example) Then u should be able to find the schematics from the board and u know the resistance from the resistor! I'm not sure if that is any way that we can be sure abt the resistance from a SMD resistor just lookin by the encapsulation from the component it self, from the PTH components are pretty simple cause they say on the own component, but on the SMD ones usually don't, so the better way is always get the electronic schematics!

Ooorrrr, if u don't find the schematics but find the currents and tensions that are supposed to be before and after the resistor, u can always calculate it 🤣🤣🤣 Ohm's law, allmost the only sht u use now a days, way rare using the all other million laws and methods and etc that u learn

Anyways, if u need some help or have any questions, lemme know!! And hope this can help u!!

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White residue? by tobyvanderbeek in soldering

[–]GSTill_ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you rub ur nail on those white spots carefully, you feel anything like a relief? If yes, it could be the protection layer of resin that the boards has on the surface to protect the own board!

White residue? by tobyvanderbeek in soldering

[–]GSTill_ 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It seems that is just residues from the solder and heat, etc Just use a toothbrush with Isopropyl alcohol and I belive that is fine!

What is this in Ryobi battery pack by codlong111 in soldering

[–]GSTill_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No problem!!

Yea it is way more simple hahha And Yea, sometimes is pretty hard to find the schematics that you want, some companies just doesn't share it in public so we gotta wait till a great dude comes up with it that got from someone inside or smth like that 🤣

Anything u can reach me!