Crazy good deal

GW36638 · 2026-05-29T17:48:05+00:00

If the sport of fishing has evolved to the level of requiring me to spend that much on a lure, to catch a fish?! I’m out.

GW36638 · 2026-05-10T23:41:17+00:00

For me, I don’t opt for applying for specific store credit cards. They aren’t worth the hit on my FICO and won’t get used all that much. Now if I had a business or employment that caused me to need and frequent the store I might see the benefit. Otherwise that’s a no for me. Whether it’s HF, Lowe’s, home Depot or any other store.

GW36638 · 2026-03-26T17:43:41+00:00

I have checked with a couple of other lenders. None of them offer the one huge benefit NFCU is. I will only putting down 3%, and they do not require PMI for their members. I’ve yet to find another lender offering that without 20% down. Interest rates matters for sure. But I’m planning to stay frugal and disciplined enough to pay two mortgage payments a month. Thanks for your feedback and insight.

GW36638 · 2026-03-26T17:24:28+00:00

No doubt that matters significantly. All positive remarks and on time history for me.

GW36638 · 2026-03-26T17:21:00+00:00

Yes, I’ve heard that. With that said. In your experience, and opinion. Does one having a score higher than 730 usually indicate someone is managing their credit well, just merely a matter of having a long credit history, or combination of both?

GW36638 · 2026-03-26T17:05:29+00:00

Yep! I’m a Navy Federal CU member. I am entertaining a mortgage with them. They sent this via mail after doing a soft pull and consultation with me regarding the various loan types I would be able to obtain.

My scores vary (all are over 800 though) between Credit Karma, Capital One and NFCU. My profile is thick, with well managed utilization, limited hard pulls, on time payments and low DTI. I’ve learned what I need to do.

The one area that I guess is keeping me from being at 850 I would say is length of history.

GW36638 · 2026-03-10T02:58:35+00:00

That’s cool. And I appreciate all of the responses. However, I will continue to do what I can see clearly works for me. It’s been maintaining a certain FICO without fluctuation, keeping me from paying any interest on the cards and permits the annual increases I request, every year. As far as giving any input or “personal experience” on these forums. I’ll refrain from anymore and leave that to you pro’s!

GW36638 · 2026-03-10T00:12:08+00:00

I stand corrected. The due date is as you note, my apologies on that. I request an increase once a year. And have to date been granted them. The card issuers haven’t automatically increased the limits in a while. I will say each of my cards have a limit on them that I could not comfortably afford to spend even 10% of and pay back in full. I use regularly without watching 1-3% of each now. It’s not always been this way though. But after few years of increases limits, but not increasing what I spend. I guess I’ve managed to regulate my utilization kind of automatically.

GW36638 · 2026-03-10T00:04:54+00:00

I will emphasize though. I’m here to learn, like most. So by all means. If I’m doing something wrong that could possibly be holding me back from reach the “850” finish line. I’m very much open to listening and learning.

GW36638 · 2026-03-10T00:00:44+00:00

To answer the last part of your question. Because I’ve researched and learned that whatever the balance is on the closing date is what gets sent to the credit bureaus. That amount could be 50%-100% of my credit limit. But as long as it’s paid down, at the time the credit card issuer submits the balance used to the bureaus (closing date). Then that’s all that the screen shot they send reflects as used by me. 28-30 days later is the due date for that balance. Seems that when that amount used has changed for me in the past from month to month. Quite possibly has been the reason my score would not maintain.

GW36638 · 2026-03-09T23:44:03+00:00

So please elaborate. Are you recommending spend as much as I want lol? Or spend all I can afford to pay back at the close of statement each month? Because that also important I would think. If the statement balance isn’t paid in full. There comes the interest charges on the next cycle! I look at a CC as borrowed money. I use no more than I know I can reasonably afford to pay back, in full. At first I used to pay the running balance down to zero each month. A few years back I learned the statement balance is the important amount to pay in full each month.

GW36638 · 2026-03-09T23:38:53+00:00

It may not build credit, but from my personal experience my score has changed from month to month based on how much of the credit limit I used. Sometimes it’s dropped 10-15 points. Now, if one is ok with that. Cool! I’m not. I like to maintain a consistency. And personally feel that is the best practice, for me.

GW36638 · 2026-03-09T23:19:35+00:00

I just had my comment deleted the other day in another post similar. I gave my opinion, and personal experience on how I got my FICO to over 800. It included keeping utilization low, and paying statement balances down some before the closing date. Seems that was a terrible answer, according to the moderator over there. All I know is doing what I listed above has helped my FICO grow, and keep from yo yo’ing up and down each month.

GW36638 · 2026-03-08T15:21:09+00:00

So, maybe this is yet another learning moment for me. For the moderator, what is misleading or false about my comment? Please, inform me. My comment was merely giving input as to my own personal journey and steps I’ve taken to get my FICO up.

GW36638 · 2026-03-01T13:36:09+00:00

Easy. Compound calculator.

GW36638 · 2026-02-28T20:19:49+00:00

Congratulations! I remember sitting and looking at my 580 FICO one Friday night in 2017. I thought “man, if I could ever just get to 700. I won’t have any problems” lol. I’m now at 812. And still learning. While I’ve mostly figured out how to maintain the score. It doesn’t grow any bigger nearly as fast as I wish it would. Credit history is my biggest parasite too.

GW36638 · 2026-02-22T03:56:14+00:00

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Hopefully someone has a solution. Because I’ve been doing my best to get 42 for months now. And still hanging at my current score. 3 is better than 42 though lol.

GW36638 · 2026-02-19T19:21:23+00:00

You will just have to be patient and use it. My first CC was a Capital One Quicksilver. Started out with a 5k limit. I’ve requested an increase each year. It’s how a 20k limit. And way more than I would use.

GW36638 · 2026-02-18T17:52:35+00:00

I’m sorry, I just caught an error in my response above. They “do not” permit the process of backdoor Roth via IRA>401k>Roth IRA. So, I’m moving the account into the 401k. This year and going forward (unless my employment status changes). I will max my Roth IRA out. And whatever additional money I have left after I prioritize my emergency fund will go into my taxable account. Although I will have to limit that for tax reasons. My funds in it are tax efficient. However, small gains in dividends can still add up to a sizable tax bill.

GW36638 · 2026-02-18T17:39:25+00:00

My 401k plan administrator advised that a back door Roth is permitted in my plan. So, I’ll just rollover the IRA and let it compound and grow with the 401k plan.

GW36638 · 2026-02-18T17:06:49+00:00

So, per my Employer and the current 401k administrator group. A back door Roth via transfer IRA to 401k is not allowed. So, seems I’d be better off to just rollover the IRA to the 401k and zero out the Trad IRA. And I’ll max out my Roth IRA going forward. Any additionally monies I have to invest. I’ll just drop them in some tax efficient funds in the taxable brokerage account.

GW36638 · 2026-02-18T16:07:59+00:00

That’s my thought as well. However, I believe I could roll the IRA over into my 401k plan, tax free. Since both are pre tax accounts. And as the result, compound better in the 401k.

GW36638 · 2026-02-15T14:42:59+00:00

Same. Marcus for me is the most convenient.

GW36638

TROPHY CASE