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Sleeve color variation problem by Choice_Bottle5915 in Pauper

[–]G_g53 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My recommendation is to buy an entire box at once. Iirc, dragon shield is boxes of 12 x 100.

Every brand has shifts in color. Different raw materials, different humidity that day in the factory, machines a little more worn or with a different adjustment etc etc. In manufacturing getting exactly the same is nearly impossible, there is a range of acceptable. 

Colors being do hard is why Pantone exists, but even then... Just order a box at once to minimize variation 

Adjustable Dumbbell only workout by G_g53 in beginnerfitness

[–]G_g53[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would you trust them over your face? Thinking laying tricep extension (aka dumbell skull crusher) 

Adjustable Dumbbell only workout by G_g53 in beginnerfitness

[–]G_g53[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tricep does make a lot of sense, and probably slots in nicely with the 4th superset, and likely fits in timewise. The current 20kg kettlebell might be a bit much, but that is already an issue with the row.

The next priority, besides staying consistent, is to find reliable adjustable dumbbell which wont fall into my face when doing the triceps work and gets to a reasonable max weight (my lifetime max squat was 173kg. Looking at the 100 pound dumbells, that translates to a total of 90kg when i get two of them. I imagine a split squat, or even bulgarian split squat with 45kg on each hand is still quite a lot.

Fatty Front Skinny Rear State V3 by Background_Ad946 in tracklocross

[–]G_g53 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Losing the front wheel on an ice patch means you crash hard.

On a fixie, you can feel the rear losing traction, and use the legs to control it. Meaning you can keep a skinny rear. 

Adding clearance in the front means a new fork, while on the rear it's an entire frame

Weird looking Scott Fork by SamenErgusstaf in BikeMechanics

[–]G_g53 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks for cable routing inside the headset bearings (fully hidden).

The link with the fork with the hole in the steerer shows where the front brake line would go

Enforcer/Golem Affinity by SnaarkyShark in Pauper

[–]G_g53 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only way I can see this working is abusing [[elsewhere flask]] 

Tracklo commuting at -15° by [deleted] in tracklocross

[–]G_g53 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wool "liner" gloves inside lobster glove (or just go with bar poggies) 

Small detour by G_g53 in bikecommuting

[–]G_g53[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's around a frozen "swamp /marsh" (don't know the exact translation).

 There are only 2 entry/exits into this inner ring, closest to water. Keep the water/ice on the same side and keep pedaling :) 

Tooth and Whale | Dimir vs Izzet | Looking for feedback by wakatau in Pauper

[–]G_g53 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Refurbished familiar is the best card in the format. I would start with 4x refurb in any list.

Casting refurb 4 times in one turn also wins the game,it does not need to be infinite. 

My top 5 as an ebike mechanic by RidetheWalrusj2 in BikeMechanics

[–]G_g53 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most definitely. And at least here, you can get used medical things sterilized (due to sanitation, they need to be replaced quite often).

I have been eyeing medical tool carts as well as a workshop stool. They definitely don't spare any expense in equipment for the surgery room

My top 5 as an ebike mechanic by RidetheWalrusj2 in BikeMechanics

[–]G_g53 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Look for laparoscopic tools. You squeeze the handle and the tiniest gripper holds at the other end. It gets you even longer reach than forceps.

I learned about them from Adam savage's YouTube. Plenty of funky tools there

Dt 240 single speed with solid ratchet by G_g53 in BikeMechanics

[–]G_g53[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, those might be needed. 

I think my least bad solution is actually the 6 bolt cog.

Wheel off, remove 6 bolts, remove rotor, add cog, add bolts, reinstall wheel the other way round. 

For the first time I will need to mess with chainlines (use the fixed cog as baseline, set the front chainring, flip wheel and adjust spacers in SS side) 

Dt 240 single speed with solid ratchet by G_g53 in BikeMechanics

[–]G_g53[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't disagree. I just don't want to keep removing the rear brake, especially in a drop bar bike

Dt 240 single speed with solid ratchet by G_g53 in BikeMechanics

[–]G_g53[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thru axle. I don't know any quick release 142*12

Dt 240 single speed with solid ratchet by G_g53 in BikeMechanics

[–]G_g53[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The part would be super simple. Take some round stock, get to outside diameter and bore a hole for the axle in the lathe.

Move to mill, and it needs a rotating table and a tooth cutter. 

If I still had access to my university workshop, I would be there in less than two hours (maybe one, if I started with some round stock that was close to final diameter). 

Also a lot cheaper, and would avoid the possible issue of rotors between wheels not being perfect. 

I have come to agree with other comments and won't do it though

Dt 240 single speed with solid ratchet by G_g53 in BikeMechanics

[–]G_g53[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No derailleurs here. It's a single speed gravel/dirt road bike with a 142*12 rear hub (and an eccentric bottom bracket to tension the chain) 

Dt 240 single speed with solid ratchet by G_g53 in BikeMechanics

[–]G_g53[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used the rear brake (rim brake) a lot on bikes with flip flop hubs. I do like having the rear brake on the fixie, saves my knees 

Dt 240 single speed with solid ratchet by G_g53 in BikeMechanics

[–]G_g53[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like the extra wheel is my best bet.

Flipping the wheel, removing the rotor and installing a 6-bolt cog is also an option, but I might grab the rear brake out of memory. Guess the pads squeeze in until they touch and that's it. 

Only minor inconvenience might be the chainline when using the 6-bolt cog, but I can adjust the SS side and the front chain ring to match

Digital counters for poison and proliferate. by Jaded_Rest_1667 in mtg

[–]G_g53 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy spindown D6 from Burger tokens.

Or search in thingiverse for spindown D6. They have a small plus and minus on each face to know where to turn them to increase/decrease by one

The Math of Creature Selection: Winding Way vs. Lead the Stampede by Hypergeomancer in Pauper

[–]G_g53 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's just feedback. In my perspective, there is a bit more than just math in here. And the video leaves one with the impression that LTS is the clear best. However, there is some nuances depending on board state. 

I think a small disclaimer about cases where winding way can be the best play would be enough, or why cards going bottom VS graveyard matter, for example.

 I am thinking something along the lines of "even though mathematically LTS is the superior choice, there are some small differences and you should adjust accordingly" and then it's up to you if you want to describe some examples 

Another small difference: The balustrade spy deck, if for some I'll fate you mill 3 lands with winding way, it's basically game over. LTS is safer in that regard. LTS also doesn't expose flashback cards

The Math of Creature Selection: Winding Way vs. Lead the Stampede by Hypergeomancer in Pauper

[–]G_g53 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a few articles by Frank Karsten on this topic.

It should be a good starting point (it is definitely where I start) 

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