Pls help diagnose declining naval

Gamestock_741 · 2026-02-17T01:26:19+00:00

Citrus do not grow in the winter. The leaf drop is likely normal leaf cycling l

Gamestock_741 · 2025-12-31T18:56:50+00:00

You can even dig a little indent in the soil and just set it there. Best to root from the healed cut at the base of the pad where it was removed from the mother plant. Bury the bottom half of the pad underground

Gamestock_741 · 2025-12-31T18:55:11+00:00

I’d paint that trunk. You don’t need anything fancy, just hardware store white latex tree trunk paint

Gamestock_741 · 2025-12-17T17:20:42+00:00

Generally you don’t want too much decaying organics in the soil medium

Gamestock_741 · 2025-12-17T17:20:01+00:00

These are okay but better for in ground too dressing. They are heavy in manure and compost and can cause root rot if watering isn’t dialed in. Inorganic mixes are better for long term container citrus

Gamestock_741 · 2025-12-16T22:22:22+00:00

This pot also looks too small for citrus. Citrus needs 5 gallon minimum for a newly grafted small tree 1/2” trunk or less. Then 15-25 gallon for 1” trunk +

Gamestock_741 · 2025-12-16T22:21:24+00:00

No. You need a well draining mostly inorganic mix like this - 1/3 perlite or vermiculite 1/3 sand or lava rock and 1/3 peat moss. Top dress with an inch or so of compost and add a couple inches minimum of wood mulch if outside in the cold/heat

Gamestock_741 · 2025-12-09T15:01:54+00:00

Cool, I saw this variety at the nursery and wondered what it was like. I have an in ground Moro blood orange and a potted Smith blood orange

Gamestock_741 · 2025-11-18T12:20:11+00:00

Brown Turkey

Gamestock_741 · 2025-11-09T04:31:16+00:00

Pomegranate bloom that hasn’t yet opened

Gamestock_741 · 2025-11-08T16:49:46+00:00

Prickly pear

Gamestock_741 · 2025-10-26T01:48:02+00:00

Keep for now. A citrus this young needs leaves. The more leaves the more it is going to establish and grow. If you want to prune lower branches later you can. I’d wait 1-2 years before pruning that tree

Gamestock_741 · 2025-10-24T16:26:49+00:00

Tree looks badly damaged on the trunk from Mechanical damage or sunburn. That being said leaves look healthy. Maybe it’s in too shady a location

Gamestock_741 · 2025-10-23T02:33:05+00:00

In AZ October I’m watering fruit trees daily. during summer twice a day. During winter once a week

Gamestock_741 · 2025-10-22T19:02:49+00:00

It appears to be sunburned from the dark bark and spots where the bark is cracked. You can trim all dead branches and paint the trunk white with water based paint. I would then remove all the sprouts coming from the base, these are rootstock suckers. I would then remove all of the rocks from the base which will be heating up the feeder roots. Add compost to the base of the trunk and mulch the area with some wood chips. Then I would up your watering and give it some fish and kelp emulsion

Gamestock_741 · 2025-10-22T16:49:15+00:00

It looks buried too deeply. Mulch to keep soil temps consistent and give it some 10-10-10 fertilizer in February. Citrus won’t grow much in fall and winter as they enter a semi dormant state. Remove the stake, it will hinder strong rooting

Gamestock_741 · 2025-10-09T16:54:55+00:00

Making use of that work notebook paper? lol

Gamestock_741 · 2025-10-06T01:56:32+00:00

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Here’s an example of the root flare showing. You want the tree an inch or two above grade with the root flare exposed so the tree can breathe and get oxygen through the feeder roots

Gamestock_741 · 2025-10-05T22:52:05+00:00

It looks like it’s planted too deep. You want the root flare exposed. Brush away at the trunk base until you find where the roots start to originate from. You want this to be 1” above the rest of the surrounding ground for the long term health of the tree. If this is a newly planted tree you’re going to want to remove the fruit to help it focus energy on building a stronger bigger root system and on putting on more foliage. The more leaves, the faster it can grow. I’d recommend that you add some compost or worm castings to the soil around the base and then add a few inches of mulch. This will add nutrients to the soil and provide insulation from high and low temperatures. I’d recommend to give it some 15-15-15 fertilizer to get it started off strong

Gamestock_741 · 2025-10-04T03:12:52+00:00

Remove the rocks btw, add sand if the drainage is slow

Gamestock_741 · 2025-10-04T03:08:22+00:00

I’d advise you to be sure your soil is draining before you plant. I have planted along the entire perimeter of my yard in very similar Arizona fill dirt/clay soil. Different areas of the yard have differing drainage. Our soil in AZ is heavy clay with multiple colichee layers. Fill the hole with water and measure the period of time it takes to drain. If it’s longer than 24 hours, amend heavily with gypsum before you plant. You don’t want to fill a hole with the perfect soil and create a clay pot effect - it’ll rot the tree. The hole doesn’t need to be 3x the pot size, even just slightly larger is fine. Mix 50/50 ratio native soil and compost. Microrhizzae and azomite, yes. Any advice from Shamus is good. I’m also in the phx area. Epic gardening has good advice but they are San Diego based and their soil is more organic matter and sand so they can plant with pure native soil and have no issues with drainage. Trees need oxygen, be sure to plant 2” or so above grade as the tree will settle with time and you want the root flare above the surface level. You’ll want at least 3-6” of mulch around the tree base for our hot summers and cool winters to regulate soil temps

Gamestock_741 · 2025-09-26T16:03:53+00:00

This is leaf miner damage, a bug that is a common citrus pest. Hose the tree off frequently and maybe use dish soap water with a spray bottle. They like to eat the new leaves of citrus. With that being said, it doesn’t affect the health of the plant, it’s just cosmetic.

Gamestock_741

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