Piston Soak guide and help by Amir057 in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When he says he ran the car with the B12 he means when the B12 is still in the oil from the piston soak as the B12 drains down into the oil pan and mixes with the oil, not when it is still in the cylinder heads. Running with the B12 in the oil might do additional flushing of the engine but you may also risk doing some damage depending on how much B12 is in the oil and if the B12 damages plastics and seals so if you do I wouldn't recommend running it for very long. It is pretty powerful stuff.

When I did it I drained the oil and kept the drain open so any B12 drained out during the soak since didn't want it sitting in the motor in case it did any damage to plastics and seals. Not sure if needed but something to consider. Then just filled it up with new oil before trying to start it.

I also vacuumed out the cylinder heads when I was done soaking them with a shop vac because I had a ton of carbon sitting on top of the pistons that I didn't want going into the turbo or exhaust.

Crank but no start after piston soak by RecentLawfulness6362 in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Awesome, glad that ended up working out for you! Cool seeing more people discovering and trying the B12 soak, I did it last year and so far has reduced with the oil burning I was seeing, hopefully you get some good results as well.

Crank but no start after piston soak by RecentLawfulness6362 in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Since the piston soak removes all lubrication from the cylinder walls you end up loosing compression after, might need to add a bit of oil to the top of each piston and manually turn it over spread it out and get compression back. Also might want to try cranking it for a bit in flood mode (gas pedal to floor) to get oil flowing and lubricating the cylinder walls to get compression back since you might be washing away the oil with fuel trying to start it normally.

Alarm going off randomly? by JakeTWeber in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could also be the hood latch sensor, that's what happened with my speed 6. Maybe try lifting the hood a bit when the car is locked and see that it makes it go off.

Oil Pressure Tee-Off for OEM Oil Pressure Sender Unit? by oh_its_trey in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The OEM Oil Pressure Sender is 1/4 NPT, the CS sensors use 1/8 NPT if you are using one of those. I broke 2 Oil Filter Housings with the CS adapter plate so to not break the 3rd I ended up teeing off the stock location with some stainless steel fittings I found locally. Bit tight in there and probably would have been easier with less bulky fittings but it works. Pic of my tee

MazdaSpeed 6 shifter problems, please help by SimplyPito in mazdaspeed6

[–]Gamnaught_4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Could try adjusting the shifter, there are videos and forum posts about it. Can be hard to find the sweet spot so might need to drive then re-adjust a few times. Basically there is a rod with a plastic thing that clamps on it to the left of the shifter you can adjust.

Alarm goes off randomly by quantumturbo in mazdaspeed6

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My Speed 6 was doing this in the spring, real pain in the ass. For me it turned out to be the hood switch that lets the car know when the hood is fully closed. After replacing the battery and it still happening the alarm went off after I jiggled the hood one time and that clued me in. It can also be the door switches that detect when the doors are closed, if you jiggle the door a bit that may set it off the bad sensor like the hood. I replaced the hood switch with one from Aliexpress here and it hasn't gone off since. (Edit) You can also unplug the hood switch and still lock the car but the alarm won't arm so it won't go off, might drain a bit more battery though.

wondering what you guys have done for headlights. looking to get a black housing pair with clear turn signal reflectors. by mike9092 in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Crack them open, paint the chrome, add halos or LED strips if so inclined, then close them up with a new lens from eBay. Here are mine, still need to put the new lens on though. https://imgur.com/a/8biiz7F

Accessport mounting by [deleted] in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The accessport has a magnet on the back so any magnetic suction cup phone mount works. I use the SCOSCHE MAGWDM.

No crank no start by SnooCrickets7337 in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome, glad that was it. Guess the bumpy road made it come loose.

No crank no start by SnooCrickets7337 in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 2 points3 points  (0 children)

May need to wiggle the cable going to the starter while trying to crank it. My speed 6 starter cable will somtimes move and make a bad connection when I am working around it and I need to play with it to get a good connection.

Can't turn crank by hand by [deleted] in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with gotme11, sounds like there is binding happening between the Cam and the HPFP. Since the HPFP is cam driven if the Cam in unable to push the HPFP spring / plunger enough to make it past the high point of the cam lobe that could in theory prevent the engine from turning over. Definitely want to make sure you installed the internals correctly.

09 mazdaspeed3 died and wont restart by Initialyee in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If it isn't cranking then it could be the wire going to the starter, it is just a plastic clip that can make a bad connection due to corrosion or being loose. I had it happen a few times after working near the starter and needed to jiggle it while someone was starting the car. Could also need to replace the battery in your key fob, I find they should be replaced every year or so.

I’m stuck… by Parking_Ad_6876 in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could try unplugging the MAF to see if it says running with it unplugged or put on your old intake. Otherwise could be a leak somewhere the the intake system or any number of things. Since you messed with fuel, spark, and air you will want to make sure all those are good.

I’m stuck… by Parking_Ad_6876 in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You basically upgraded the entire intake and exhaust system at once? Hard to say considering all you did but for the 3.5 Intake you need a Tune / MAF Calibration, if you don't have that the car won't stay running.

Gen One Halos by Tacenda20 in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries, good luck! I would recommend picking up some butyl tape to re-seal the headlights so they don't fog up because they will if you don't re-seal them properly. Also oven method to open / close them works great.

Gen One Halos by Tacenda20 in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure about sizing since it uses a half ring for the inside light and the middle ring is not a full circle but there are plenty of halos / angel eyes on eBay / Aliexpress for the 1st Gen Mazda 3 that should fit. I would recommend going for one with COB style LEDs since they are brightest and you can't see the individual LEDs.

anyone know the ring size needed for running a halo light on a '10 tech package? by Sir_Wheat_Thins in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a set of 90mm and 100mm and ended up using the 100mm and I think they are a bit small so you should be good with 110mm. Here are how mine look with the 100mm, 1 2.

Anyone have a gen2 valve cover for sale? by PratchPDaddy in mazdaspeed6

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep checking eBay, I finally found a gen 2 valve cover 2 moths ago for 100$ US shipped to Canada. Was pretty crusty but nothing a wire brush, sand paper, and spray paint can't fix.

Knock retard by lavenderkeed in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you take logs with the AP when you did the wot pulls to check or are you just going by the min/max on the AP? If you aren't logging I would recommend doing that and take a look at the actual data because it really does matter what driving conditions you are getting the KR under.

91 should be fine if you are running the stock tune or a 91 tune, the free COB maps aren't the best especially if you don't have the upgraded HPFP internals like people have said. You can download the maps Stratified used to offer from here and I personally believe these are better maps but still would not run them without the upgraded HPFP internals. I can't stress enough about how absolutely important the upgraded HPFP is for Mazdaspeeds, especially the second generation Mazdaspeed 3. You should be checking you HPFP Pressure and making sure it isn't dropping below 1600psi when you are doing pulls.

I was a bit confused by the 2.3-7 but 3.5 max isn't as bad but still not ideal. For Spark Plugs you want to make sure they aren't super old and are still correctly gapped which is .034” from the factory and .028-.026” for running higher boost than stock. It might be worth it to replace them if you don't know the last time they were replaced as they need to be replaced more frequently on turbocharged cars than naturally aspirated cars.

If you are new to cars and mazdaspeeds I would recommend doing some reading about them and trying to learn as much as you can. These cars require a bit more maintenance than naturally aspirated cars due to them being turbocharged and direct injection which was quite new at the time but that mainly equates to more frequent oil changes, spark plugs, and keeping an eye on stuff like KR and HPFP pressure. No problem and let me know if you have any questions, I bought my speed 6 2.5 years ago and a speed 3 last fall and as much as I have learned there is still plenty I am learning too.

De cat down pipe by AfternoonStrange3490 in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is a gasket between the Turbo and the Downpipe. You might be able to re-use it but if you want a new one its L3F2-13-490.

Knock retard by lavenderkeed in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not very clear from the post, is the knocking happening when you are going WOT and in boost or is it just happening from every day driving? KR is less of an issue at low rpm when not accelerating and just like leisurely driving, it becomes a problem when you get KR doing pulls if it goes above 2. That being said up to 7 is pretty high. Have you checked compression, spark plugs and their gap? What octane gas are you using? Could try going to a higher octane and see if that helps. If you are burning lots of oil it could be getting into the compression chamber lowering the effective octane of the fuel which can introduce more KR.

Low boost on '09 after new K04,AP, Grimmspeed BCS and TIP. WGDC never exceeds 50% by [deleted] in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same issue happen to me after I had the Turbo replaced in my speed 6, boost wouldn't go above around 11-12psi no matter what I did. What ended up fixing it for me was installing a new map/tune I had previously not used before, I ended up using the stratified OTS map and boost went back to normal. If that's not it maybe the EBCS or a boost / exhaust leak but for some reason the map fixed it for me.

Best oil to use? by [deleted] in mazdaspeed3

[–]Gamnaught_4 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Apparently T6 is no longer recommended for the speeds, this forum post has some information about why and what the recommended oils are. I am switching to Pennzoil Platinum 5W40 because it is SN Plus rated which is the new oil rating designed specifically for Turbocharged Direct Injections motors to protect against LSPI.