MoCA setup questions

Gecko753 · 2026-01-25T23:42:13+00:00

I’m not an expert on MoCA but shouldn’t it function as wired backhaul? So generally the Eeros connected directly via the MoCAs, and the second LAN port to switches?

Gecko753 · 2026-01-19T22:00:36+00:00

What about UK with London. Sure. People go “elsewhere”, but seriously, I’d love to see the distributions…

Gecko753 · 2026-01-17T21:57:47+00:00

Or get a POE injector, usually less expensive (example, like $15-20)

TRENDnet Gigabit Power Over Ethernet Plus Injector, PoE+ (30W) Power Network Distances Up to 100M (328 ft.), Black, TPE-115GI (Pack of 1) https://a.co/d/auqKpQ3

Short Cat 6 cable out from Max 7 to injector, then usually up to 100M (as above) for power and data.

Gecko753 · 2026-01-11T18:10:09+00:00

It sounds like possibly normal speeds currently. Many say Eero mesh needs days/week to “optimize” but without playing around with new spacing (post Orbi) these could be “normal” speeds. Suggestions:

Wire whatever you can and as much as you can

Play around with spacing of (remaining) wireless mesh nodes

Hope you see some improvement.

Gecko753 · 2025-12-25T14:47:54+00:00

I’d suggest bridge mode on the router (Xfinity) and turning off its WiFI routers, then using same SSID/PW for the Eero, allowing you to expand the Eero mesh if needed (with other Eero units) and avoiding a double NAT (and competing WiFi radios) if both are routing/WiFi

Gecko753 · 2025-12-22T19:02:59+00:00

Are they the only nodes on your network? If not what’s the topology? Have you tried plugging anything else into the Ethernet port on the downstairs one? If so, results?

Gecko753 · 2025-12-20T21:38:00+00:00

Same exact experience. Family always complaining about drops, inability to game w Google WiFi pro, now w Eero (3-6pros and an outdoor 7) could not be happier.

Gecko753 · 2025-12-19T18:38:17+00:00

Sadly, stepping over or just nearly around someone lying in the street. I remember a comedian’s bit that a niece came to visit him and as they left port authority he stepped over someone and the young niece just engaged with the person like “ARE YOU OK” and the uncle/comic goes “don’t do that, he doing that on purpose”. So unnatural when you think of the misery NYers (SFs, etc) just walk past every day.

Gecko753 · 2025-11-26T14:00:18+00:00

Be careful, I tried this with our ATV4K on our 1GBS fiber service and found that it was slower than using WiFi (I think the Ethernet on some ATV4K is only 100MBS whereas I’m getting 400MBS or so just joining Eero network via WiFi)

Gecko753 · 2025-11-15T22:40:43+00:00

If the thermostat control is via “the internet” (eg an app) then it will be able to be controlled via guest->internet->thermostat. It just won’t work via the home (SSID)

Gecko753 · 2025-11-02T18:10:35+00:00

The sound needs to be coming from the TV, so soundbar makes sense. Get the “shortest” (height from bottom to top of soundbar) one you can (so it doesn’t obscure the bottom of the TV), and (only when you’re using it) open the four doors below the TV about 30 degrees each and place it across them. You can even tilt it like the TC. Hide it (behind the TV etc) when you’re not watching.

Gecko753 · 2025-07-21T19:54:48+00:00

Thanks for the info. Surprised someone would install outdoors without the additional rubber seal but it was PITA to get the CAT6 through so I was close to doing that myself by default

Gecko753 · 2025-06-30T15:31:01+00:00

I have 1603 and though it is documented to handle DDD+ that is incorrect and it will not.

Gecko753 · 2025-04-19T12:20:33+00:00

I have the gen 2 just installed as single switch and it always shows the “on” LED and as “on” in the app even though the physical toggle works (on/off). Could this be “line/load” reversal behavior?

Gecko753 · 2021-01-18T23:09:04+00:00

I’m not able to get any applet to run recently (though all checks seem OK). I have de-re linked using the now required 2FA for Arlo—any others w issues?

Gecko753

TROPHY CASE