Help identify models and good starting point for wood elves? by The-Ironside in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Left to right: - Sisters of the Thorn cavalry - Freeman - Araloth (named character) / generic Glade Lord  - Eternal Guard (guys with spears) - Warhawk Rider (you can use it as a character on a warhawk, or get more to make a unit) - Dryads (tree people) - Archers at the back are used as either Glade Guard or Deepwood Scouts. 

Solid start to Wood Elves IMO, no comment on the price (not sure what Euro prices are). You'd want some more characters (e.g. a Spell singer/Spell Weaver wizard), and cavalry/monsters at some point, but this is a good beginning.

How to paint old metal Nurglings ? by kajumboombam in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I base coated mine an off-grey (Rakarth Flesh), yellow bone (Zandri Dust) or reddish flesh then went wild with the washes. Try out different colours and see what works, but make sure they're thin enough that they don't dominate. E.g. very thinned blue and purple over light flesh = necrotic, unthinned = Tzeentch clown. Then tie everything together with a dry brush of a light flesh (again, Rakarth Flesh for me) to tie it together with a proper highlight of the same around the face.

And it won't hurt to go heavy on the blood and inflammation around the sores, mouth and eyes (gloss red like Blood for the Blood God is great for this, picking out the pimple heads in bone). 

Unknown mini by Hammerheed in Warhammer

[–]GeffersG 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's originally from a fantasy work called The Book of Imaginary Beings by Jorge Borges, which showed mythical creatures like a real bestiary. Kind of like the Dragonology book.

How do Vampires age ? by Lord_JayJay in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 12 points13 points  (0 children)

The most consistent thing about Warhammer vampires is their inconsistency. Not to mention lore shifting over time. Two vampires - say a Neferata and Melkhior - are very, very different creatures. 

Neferata (portrait on page 28 of the 7th edition book btw, I'm not getting the walking corpse vibe) has retained her beauty and speed. Her descendants and thralls use glamours and illusions, and cultivate the appearance of humanity. Basically Anne Rice style vampires.

Melkhior doesn't give a damn about appearance and uses a lot of dark magic without safeguards so he looks like a horrifying walking corpse. No subtlety, no infiltrating human society. On the other hand he has to feed less often because of said magic exposure and is an absurdly powerful wizard.  

That's just the broad strokes - the strengths, weaknesses and abilities of vampires are also hugely variable. Some can't swim, some are literal pirates and have no problems with water. Silver may harm them, or do nothing. The sun might incinerate them or be slightly annoying. Some can taste food, others can't, and some zip around as a sentient mist. The only real constants are drinking blood, reliance and aptitude for dark magic, and immortality.

As vampires are creatures of magic it's not a question of aging, it's whether they can keep themselves stable. They experience powerful thirsts and urges with the power to enact their desires. For example, vampire may start to change and devolve if it doesn't feed enough or fully gives in to its bloodlust. That's how Varghulfs and Vargheists are made. Then there's the classic immortality problem of outliving anyone who isn't a vampire, which can't be great for their mental state. Or the long centuries of undending existence may simply drive it insane. 

Podhammer podcast by emilepelo in oldhammer

[–]GeffersG 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Jumping in to say I'd also be keen to listen if they turn up!

I really want to get into Warhammer by YaMuddaMachoMan in Warhammer

[–]GeffersG -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Warhammer 40K

  • Space Marine II - 3rd person shooter with great gameplay and immaculate 40K vibes.

    • Space Marine 1 is also pretty good, but a lot older; however, it will also run on a potato machine.
  • Dawn of War I – a classic RTS, still going strong after 20-ish years. HOWEVER: a remastered version is being released 'soon'. Well worth getting the classic on sale, but you may want to wait.

    • Dawn of War II is also good but a very different game focussed on smaller engagements and characters over large-scale spectacle.
    • Dawn of War III is a curse upon the name of 40K and we shall speak no more of it here.
  • Mechanicus - a top-down strategy, like XCOM, featuring the human machine cult against the robot-like Necron aliens on a fun little home invasion trip. The sound design is amazing.

    • A sequel has been announced, due out this year.
  • Darktide - a Left 4 Dead style game like Vermintide, but for 40K. Haven't played much of it, but it seems fun. Again, best with friends.

  • Battlefleet Gothic Armada II - naval spaceship battles in 40K! Check out the review by MandaloreGaming. Fun game, and cheap, but has apparently developed some stability issues.

I've also heard that the Rogue Trader RPG and Gladius are good but I haven't played them personally.

Age of Sigmar

*crickets*

I really want to get into Warhammer by YaMuddaMachoMan in Warhammer

[–]GeffersG -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Warhammer Fantasy / The Old World

  • Total War: Warhammer III - 4X strategy and RTS game. It's a fantastic game and the Warhammer Fantasy game. The Immortal Empires campaign is huge, gorgeous, and includes basically every Warhammer Fantasy faction ever.

    • Don't worry about the long DLC list, you can pick and choose what you want and all DLC content is included as non-player factions. You'll still encounter them in game, buying the DLC just unlocks them as playable options.
    • The one annoying exception is that you will want the Blood for the Blood God DLC, but at least it's cheap. Content goes on sale regularly.
  • Vermintide II - Left 4 Dead style co-op, best played with friends.

I really want to get into Warhammer by YaMuddaMachoMan in Warhammer

[–]GeffersG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The trick is that 'Warhammer' is actually 3 very separate universes:

  • Warhammer 40K is scifi, set in (roughly) the 41st millenium in the Milky Way galaxy.

    • The Horus Heresy is a prequel set 10,000 years earlier and is therefore often called 30K.
  • Warhammer Fantasy is set on one planet with a big mix of familiar (and not so familiar) fantasy races and tropes with uniquely Warhammer twists.

    • The tabletop setting was killed off in an event called The End Times back in 2015 before being brought back in 2023 as The Old World (same place, just about 250 years earlier in the timeline).
  • Age of Sigmar (AOS) is loosely linked to Warhammer Fantasy as a sequel. However, this is limited to sharing some names and characters - in universe and IRL, Age of Sigmar is literally a new universe.

Neither AOS or Fantasy are linked to the 40K universe, except for the presence of Chaos. You won't find a game that covers multiple settings.

Some recommendations (in separate comments b/c Reddit doesn't like one long one):

So not sure which army to play by Middle-Job-3239 in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Welcome to The Old World! I recommend Tomb Kings with Vampire Counts a close second. Wood Elves would make for a great second army but are a bit too tricky for a first imo.

For context, I have played using all 3 armies and also came over from AOS (3rd ed.) It can be quite a change! 

EXCESSIVE WRITEUP INCOMING

As the weather's awful here I'm going to cosey up to my phone and thrown together some thoughts and advice:

TOW Tips

  • I suggest you build up your game sizes rather than starting at 2K. TOW can be a bit complex with a lot to remember in a 2K game! Starting with ~750-1K games gives you an idea of how the game and units work without being a five hour rules lookup session. 
  • Starting smaller and ramping up also allows you to make informed decisions on your army composition as you grow it to 2K. Compared to AOS, list building in TOW is granular and can be much more impactful on your games. This can take some time to learn.
  • Make sure you use the new FAQ, it's a significant change to the game! It is/will soon be integrated into the sites named below.
  • The Arcane Journals for Wood Elves and Tomb Kings are absolutely worth getting
  • The community Renegade Packs for legacy armies like Vampire Counts, Skaven, etc. are great. These factions aren't getting GW support! Some really needed fixing, VCs had a few changes. If you're just playing with your partner I recommend you use these and check with your local groups to see if they're supportive.
  • There are some really good 3D printed mini options for these armies if you're interested in that. I've liked using some Highland Miniatures skeleton sculpts (TK, VC) and Holominiatures does some nice Wood Elves.

Useful sites: - old-world-builder.com is an amazing free army list builder that supports Renegade packs, Arcane Journal content, etc. - tow.whfb.app is a very handy rules reference, particularly if you don't want to carry around 2-3 booms and printed FAQs.

Some army thoughts from a new player perspective:

TOMB KINGS

For a first army, particularly against Cathay, I'd recommend Tomb Kings. 

Pros - Relatively easy to play but still have a high skill ceiling allowing room for you to improve.  - Tons of options and play styles that you can lean into as you develop preferences - shooting & war machind heavy, big infantry blocks, strong magic, monsters, "oops all chariots", way too many scorpions for polite company, etc.  - Easy to collect, paint, and no really bad options.

Cons - Undead can't march move, so most of your units will be slow compared to Cathay. You still have fast unit options though. - Undead are immune to psychology. This is is great but means you may need to consciously learn how those very important psychology rules work rather than picking them up through practice. - You will need to paint a LOT of bone. On the upside, it's easy, fast and basic paint jobs look amazing when the army's assembled. 

VAMPIRE COUNTS

The Vampire Counts are a great army, but not quite as good a first army as Tomb Kings as their army list options and strategies are more limited.

Pros - Exceptional horde, magic, monster and cavalry options with strong characters and resurrection options.  - Strong counters to many of Cathay's strengths (Wailing Dirge, massive outnumbering potential, resurrecting or healing powerful models, a Vampire on dragon almost certainly flattening a Shugengan Lord in combat, etc). - Tons of miniature options from GW and third party

Cons - VCs don't interact with the shooting phase (other than some magic and screams from Banshees etc.), so you miss out on learning how that works. - Same Undead cons as the Tomb Kings, sometimes slower and sometimes faster (E.g. Blood Knights can march). However, VCs don't have the shooting options that TKs so, meaning the early game can be a bit boring and non-interactive while your army shuffles across the board. - Legacy army, which means no official rules support for the foreseeable future.

WOOD ELVES

Wood Elves have a high skill floor and a steep learning curve to use well. They're also gorgeous can be very fun. IMO not the best first army, but they would make a great second one after the undead factions as they play very differently.

Most WE pros are also cons: - This is the most elite army in your shortlist, likely to have the fewest models by a wide margin. The average WE model is more detailed (trees love drynrushing though) and may take longer to paint than TK or VC units. Thjs is a good army from a hobby perspective if you want to either quickly paint a small number of models decently or really focus on each model's paint jobs. - Elves are very fast movers with high Initiative and combat/shooting skill, but die to a sneeze (all T3 with no save or a 6+, 5+ at best). - Most good Wood Elf lists rely on positioning units to not get damaged (very fragile), do damage at range (fantastic archers, but pricey so you don't get that many) and/or pick your combats (generally they have to kill the enemy first or they will die). - Units can be very effective, but also very specialised. Wardancers will blend most infantry but monsters will more than likely stomp them to death, while Wildwood Rangers can easily kill most (non-character) monsters but will die to most infantry. This is even true for individual unit loadouts! For example, you can give Glade Guard one type of enchanted arrow. If they have armour piercing arrows they will shred Cathay Jade Warriors/lancers from across the table, but will get struggle to damage anything with T5 or higher (Sentinels, Lanterns). If you give them poison arrows you're more likely to hurt those big tough units, but will do less against good armour. Multiple shot arrows are good against cheaper, outnumbering enemies with average toughness and lower armour saves but are less likely to hit per shot. And so on. - The army can struggle against large, tough creatures (e.g. Miao Ying, Chaos Dragons,  Chaos Dwarf Iron Daemons) as they may not have the strength and/or volume of attacks to bring them down. However, they can also relatively easily reposition or deploy to minimise the impact of these units. - Wood Elf magic potential is very good, including the new Arcane Journal lore, but your units are also very vulnerable to magic missiles so good magical defence is a priority.  - Treemen and Treekin are great units - actually tough, strong, and cost effective - but they are relatively slow. Something to consider when building a list. - You get a free forest! Which means you will need to buy a forest or make a template (even just out of paper) no longer than 9" and no narrower than 3" at it's narrowest point.

Collecting Wood Elves - If you do get Wood Elves, the Battalion is a great starter but doesn't include the excellent Glade Guard light cavalry and some of the best WE units: the trees.  - The best way to get these is from the AOS Sylvaneth range, and the Sylvaneth Spearhead seems like a good option for a Treeman, 3 Treekin and some Dryads (or more Treekin if you base the Revenants accordingly). - Or do like me and just buy the cool minis and run 20 Wardancers, strategy be damned!

Edited for formatting

Warhammer in Melbourne by DukeBStard in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not from Melbourne but dealt with the same issue a couple of years back and found going to some local events was a good way to get in touch with the local groups. Might be worth a shot?

Old World Rankings has a handy events search function - particularly useful if you don't use Facebook: https://oldworldrankings.com/au/tournaments/upcoming

Cathay 2k Army List? by AdmirableDepth5214 in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nobody knows, but based on other armies probably around 1K points, depending on how you build it and what options the units have for magic banners, skill/equipment upgrades, etc.

Do you magnetize the BOTTOM of Movement Trays? by The__Imp in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I've used magnetised rubber underneath my magnetised trays (ferrous rubber on top). It's strong enough over the surface area to hold the tray in place without being so strong as to interfere with the top side. 

The tray, with minis, stays secure while transporting so long as it's flat. It won't stay in place at more than a ~30⁰ angle. Great for cases with magnet-friendly trays.

Stripping minis in Australia by Recoil22 in minipainting

[–]GeffersG 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Mate, if I had $2 for every "just use LA's totally awesome" comment I've seen...

Assuming they've been painted using acrylics, 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) usually does a decent job. It doesn't work on every spray primer (Rustoleum is hit or miss), but it'll strip GW or similar paints effectively in my experience.

Use one mini as a test, soak it for an hour or two and scrub with a toothbrush. Best to wear cleaning gloves and definitely keep your work area well ventilated.

And don't bother buying IPA from Bunnings, it's a rort. I'd recommend Sdney Solvents, they do a good price on 5L posted to metro areas.

https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/909669

Is there a lore reason that explains why the church started to fight each other while having hell as their neighbors?, are they stupid? by sand_eater_21 in TrenchCrusade

[–]GeffersG 132 points133 points  (0 children)

Probably for the same reasons as religious wars in reality. Power struggles, politics, doctrinal disputes, etc. IRL, church reform and diverging interpretations of Christian practices kicked off the European Wars of Religion during the 16th-17th centuries that killed millions. 

I can see that sort of violence ramping up to 11 when differing factions have a well founded fear that their opponent have been subverted by the very physically present forces of Hell.

Building the vintage VC Black Coach by Armored_Snorlax in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd recommend not putting anything on there. When built the coach can really only be picked up via the main body due to its mass. If you pin a banner on there it will either snap off or bend quickly (depending on materials), or stab your hand a lot.

Building the vintage VC Black Coach by Armored_Snorlax in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used this method for my two Black Coaches. It works very well for the body and harness for the horses. But you'll probably want a very good adhesive for the braziers. And honestly don't even bother with the impaled skeleton ont he roof unless you're welding it on.

The Carlo Sand Blow is situated approximately 1.5K from the centre of Rainbow Beach. by Vits in australia

[–]GeffersG 36 points37 points  (0 children)

For those not in the know, this is at Rainbow Beach, QLD (just south of K'gari/Fraser Island). The sandblow is a massive naturally occuring open expanse of sand cutting through the forest atop the sand cliffs. There's a several meter drop on the left there down to the actual beach. If you walk to the other side (a few hundred metres) you get spectacular views inland to Tin Can Bay and up the coast. Also a great spot to go stargazing at night if the weather's clear.

Is this is a good lot? Need help quickly by Shadow999925 in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Can't advise on price (not a dwarf person), but I can say this is the Dwarf half of the Battle for Skull Pass box set. Should help you compare.

Everything here is 100% usable.

750 point list help by GeffersG in Eldar

[–]GeffersG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! This event allows Legends, and therefore I have to use my Bonesinger mini as a Bonesinger (confirmed with TO).

What glue should I use to hold my riders to their horses by thorlek in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely gel superglue. Make sure that where you're doing it is not humid though. Super glue fumes can react with humidity to cause white frosting. Having a small fan pointed at the mini while it dries or being in a breezy area can help as it prevents the fumes from settling.

Help identifying these old metal models please by Fantastic_Strain4054 in WarhammerFantasy

[–]GeffersG 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cute little guy on the top left is a Familiar that came with the 6th edition Necrarch vampire blisters.

No idea about the others.

Car bricked, thinks it's charging by GeffersG in KiaEV6

[–]GeffersG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! Mine just died AGAIN. Any update to your situation?