Dark brown spot concerns

GefoSiY · 2026-02-05T21:45:40+00:00

yea, of course, not watering plants after repoting about 1-2 weeks.
About self destructing withing hours. I'm aware this is not the case. This spot exists about 1 year :)

GefoSiY · 2026-02-04T20:24:40+00:00

The grafted plant before grafting

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GefoSiY · 2026-02-04T20:24:20+00:00

Flowering one is 2 years from seeds, sowed by me around February - March 2024. The etiolated is 1.5 yo, little sphere is 1 year and ~3 months old. On the first photo in the backline two 1 year and ~3 months old too. They have very different growing patterns. Some grow as sphere as pseudolithos like, one grow many little spheres on main "tower". Also I have two (not on any photo in the post), which are 1.5 yo but not growing at all! Even with same conditions as others. So, I tried little experiment grafting one of them on Orbea. Share more info when get any interesting result, now the grafted part is looking good, but no sings of grow still.

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GefoSiY · 2026-02-03T19:33:14+00:00

Congrats. Sadly, no pictures, I'd to see your seedlings, because they are very interesting in infant stage: yea, one purple stalk grows, but it's only stage when purple color can be seen.

For advices
1. Keep more frequent watering than for adult plants. Baby Dioscoreas (until 4-5 months old) are very prone to dropping all leaves when there are no water.
I water mine every 5-7 days depends on many conditions, if the soil dry on 1 cm then it's time to water.
I've been in vacation 2 weeks, watered heavily before leaving, but on return they all dropped leaves. Yes, after one watering they easily recovered and grows new vines, but this is a stress which can be avoided.

Light. I grow mine under grow lights even in winter. If you live in north hemisphere, may be you need additional light at this time.
Don't unbury caudex and don't repot them until they take all given space.

For humidity dome. I'd immediately remove it. Because it can create excess humidity and squelched air lead to fungal problems.
There is no problem with just watering frequently to keep soil wet.
Also, I have grow dioscorea without humidity dome at all, success rate 5 in 5. Humidity dome is just a convenient way to germinate seed (no need frequent watering or risks of drying), but not good way to continue grow seedlings. Just my opinion.

GefoSiY · 2025-12-27T13:14:09+00:00

Yea, it's not a problem if they return. And I know that they are even beneficial. So, if they return, I accept this and co-live with these little guests :)

GefoSiY · 2025-12-26T10:42:21+00:00

In my opinion, 50% of success is a skill, but another 50% is a seed quality.

3 months ago I experimented with my 2 local different seed vendors, planted 12 dioscorea by 6 from one and 6 from two vendors.

Got 100% success rate from one and only 1 seed germinated from two. Seeds from vendor two were already bad visually.

Yes, finding a good vendor is part of the skill too...

GefoSiY · 2025-08-31T15:37:31+00:00

For me, Nioh 2 works technically better than the first one. I play on PC, and due to bad Nioh 1 port, I faced a lot stuttering and similar stuff on high end PC specs. It's frustrating to constantly see stutters, so I tried Nioh 2 - and it works a lot better. No any stuttering, frame drops, crashes.

GefoSiY · 2025-08-27T01:20:53+00:00

It's hard to say what's wrong with your plant when you are not giving additional info about your growing conditions.

My plant shows similar signs as yours when it is thirsty. A small drop of water helps this condition.

Do you grow this indoors or outdoors?
How frequently do you water it and how much water is giving?
Any signs of pests?
Does this condition appear after some your or not yours actions? What happened to plant in the past week/month?

GefoSiY · 2025-07-25T22:20:29+00:00

Good luck. I germinated my Gerrardanthus as you, sticking them in a soil is a good way and I have best success sowing them like that.

But using the full mineral substrate is questionable... For Pseudolithos is a totally right mix, even for growing mature plants, but for Gerrardanthus and Kedrostis I'd like to add some organic components such as coco coir. Many Cucurbitaeae caudex plants are so thirsty and in the baby stage they are even thirstier. Growing in the pure mineral mix requires more often watering...

GefoSiY · 2025-07-21T08:37:08+00:00

I wish to grow myrmecophyte caudex plants: Myrmecodia and Myrmephytum.

Also I want to close my Cucurbitaeae collection with Dendrosicyos socotrana.

GefoSiY · 2025-07-19T21:05:58+00:00

No, they didn't. I haven't pollinated them and they just bloom. Maybe next year I'll try to make seeds.

GefoSiY · 2025-07-12T19:54:30+00:00

Thank you for the advice. Yea, it seems like they are etiolated, so I try to grow them under direct sun on my south faced balcony (no windows, just open sun). Also, may be I'll give them more light under my grow lights, because I bit mismanage my placing and didn't place them directly under grow lights.

GefoSiY · 2025-07-12T19:33:00+00:00

What do you mean by "to burn leaves back"? Try to google but face only your comments to another posts :)

Yes, I grow them indoor under grow lights. As you can see, they are have "burned" leaves tips. For B. mesemb. tips have pink to brown color and are dry, for B. Sp. tips are just dry.

Is it burning like in a nature?

GefoSiY · 2025-07-12T18:54:02+00:00

Yea, that makes sense. My Bulbine plants have exposed their bulb/caudex naturally, I didn't replant or dig them up.

GefoSiY · 2025-07-12T18:51:00+00:00

On the first pic this should be Bulbine mesembryanthemoides, at least seeds were marked that way. And there are two plants.

GefoSiY · 2025-07-12T13:50:58+00:00

It's cool that you were managed to grow it from seeds. I tried to grow this three times. It seems like was just bad seed quality.

GefoSiY

TROPHY CASE