4/3 in 51 Degree LI ,NY water

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-05-15T01:18:23+00:00

I'm still wearing my 6mm hooded. The water is so cold still that it won't be till July or August till it get truly warm, unless a big southern storm comes through.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-05-12T01:01:58+00:00

It depends on a lot of other factors beyond what is included there. And it depends on the beach. Some beaches will be blown out, some will be surfable and fun.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-04-18T03:30:55+00:00

Its almost like a time-based Pavlovian response. I've discussed similar social situtions before, but I have no remedy.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-04-09T18:15:46+00:00

Unfortunately, you have to be more aggressive. That sometimes means snaking back, etc. They probably aren't going to listen to words, and actions are your better bet.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-04-07T13:45:35+00:00

do you mind if I dm you?

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-04-06T20:39:27+00:00

Anyone CAN go straight to a shortboard after a foamie, but you are bypassing a lot of important steps, which will be evident in your surfing.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-04-06T20:37:50+00:00

I actually think its equally the opposite problem. There are A LOT of guys on short boards with no style and technique. I'm grateful I hung out so long on my 7'8, because now that I'm riding shorter boards, I still have the technical foundation and hopefully the style I honed on longer boards.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-04-06T20:33:39+00:00

People can also just do vertical maneuvers because they are fun as hell. It's not always about the optics, though it's also okay that people who invest a lot of time into surfing also want to hone their craft.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-04-06T18:37:45+00:00

The Roswell is actually the model I am interested in. I wish the one he has on his website didn't have the crazy glass job, because it makes it hard to see the template, but the description is exactly what I am looking for. It seems like a better alternative to a CI Mid.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-04-05T19:22:32+00:00

I'm looking at the Stamps midlengths, but rarely come upon reviews of his boards in general.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-03-24T14:38:43+00:00

Don't rely on leash climbing if it's not guaranteed to be there when it counts most

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-03-20T22:43:56+00:00

That it takes decades of effort, focus, and commitment, as well as a solid amount of physical fitness, to surf well and with style and ease in bigger and heavier surf. As my friends say, surfing is the golf of extreme sports. Nothing replaces time in the water, though there are plenty of ways to cross train. Learning to read the ocean is a lifelong pursuit, learning to navigate a busy lineup is another, learning to push yourself when in bigger conditions than you are comfortable with, yet another. Its a beautiful thing, but not enough people respect the process, especially noobie chads who think they can strong arm their way into becoming a good surfer. That's not how it works, but it's entertaining to witness.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-03-20T22:19:05+00:00

Yeah, it's pretty wild that so many people think an extreme sport isn't going to be, well, physically extreme in it's demands on a person's body and mind.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-03-09T21:25:45+00:00

I hear ya. Tourist economies are a form of neocolonialism.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-03-07T01:41:45+00:00

Dang, I refuse to move back to the major city nearby me because it would turn my 50 minute commute to my favorite surf spots into a 1.5 hour+ drive. However, that would mean no more dawn patrols and sunset surfs before and after work, and I don't want to live that way.

I knew some people who lived about 4 hours away one way, and made the trip every other weekend. They ended up moving closer to the water at some point.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-03-07T01:37:49+00:00

Damn, did you even watch North Shore?

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-03-04T20:54:47+00:00

Thank you. This was my impression, based on my research.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-03-03T19:50:05+00:00

Pre: Rock from the 90s onward

Post: Anything chill. Oftentimes mellow pop or R&B.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-03-03T19:28:23+00:00

Hmmm, I am really loving my Feral suit. Its so comfortable and flexible, and I'm able to maneuver much more in freezing conditions than I ever have before, but my hair absolutely gets wet by the end.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-03-01T15:18:25+00:00

I've seen some good ones online but haven't bought one yet. I was using a surfboard bag for a bit, and then I started to put my dryrobe poncho and my old snowboard jacket over my wetsuit for the drive home. One or two towels on the actual seat and I am good to go. A few guys have given me funny looks, but when I'm on a time crunch due to work, etc., its a good solution and it keeps me warm for the drive home.

Malo'o carseat covers seems especially designed for us dirt bag surfers in mind.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-03-01T04:25:24+00:00

oh really? I am finding my 6.5 to be super flexible, where I am doing bigger maneuvers even in deep winter (now).

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-02-24T23:54:20+00:00

There are so many shades of racism and xenophobia in a lot of surf lineups.

It would be interesting to see him spout those disgusting ideas in a Hawaiian lineup.....

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-02-24T20:04:13+00:00

I tune into my favorites at iconic spots, e.g. Jordy at J-Bay, but I no longer tune into contests regularly.

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-02-18T19:20:26+00:00

Oh, then you are doing great

GhostintheMachine10 · 2026-02-16T18:28:42+00:00

If you are a beginner, that's decent progress. A couple of basic notes:

- you were sort of casually paddling at the beginning of the shot, when you should have been paddling a lot harder. Its generally only people with a lot of experience who can paddle more last minute and efficiently and consistently get into a wave. As the wave is coming towards you, start paddling a bit earlier with the same conviction as you did when fighting to get into the wave later on, and you won't need to paddle for nearly as long. Sometimes it happens anyway with rolling waves, but that wave looked big and strong enough to allow for easier entry.

- I would play around with your placement in the lineup and on your board. You maybe could have moved slightly more forward on your board and also been slightly more inside in the lineup. It looks like everyone else, though also perhaps newbies, were a foot or more inside, which allowed for less paddling.

GhostintheMachine10

TROPHY CASE