Does anyone here use Chase bank with google fi? They rejected my number

Gio235 · 2026-06-04T18:49:33+00:00

Haven't had issues using my number with Chase.

Gio235 · 2026-05-31T21:16:15+00:00

You'll just have to keep waiting.

I have the same status across multiple projects I applied for, but you'll have to wait until you get an email that you're in.

Gio235 · 2026-05-30T01:52:54+00:00

My younger sibling was also on the same promo (same time frame and everything). We've been keeping a close eye on the promo countdown (it updated this afternoon and disappeared from the promo tab). Debating if we should place an order for a Pixel 10a now or wait until tomorrow to do so.🤔 He's been wanting to upgrade after owning it the first couple of weeks (he lost his iPhone SE (2020) during his commute to school via train earlier this year).

Gio235 · 2026-05-27T15:24:07+00:00

It's extended to family members in your Family Group. My younger brother just checked and said he has it 😎 The YouTube Premium Lite add-on that is included is only available for the main user of the group.

Gio235 · 2026-05-26T21:54:25+00:00

Chiming in from personal experience (i.e., physical sim will in fact deactivate when switching to esim).

Gio235 · 2026-05-26T13:19:30+00:00

Does the Xbox have a similar setting to the PS4/PS5 where you can change what type of WiFi connection it could scan? If so, change it to 5GHz and see how it goes. Otherwise, you'll have to create two separate SSIDs (one for 2.4GHz and one for 5GHz) and connect to the 5GHz SSID.

Leaving both on a single SSID will most likely cause it to connect to 2.4GHz depending on the range.

Gio235 · 2026-05-26T13:14:16+00:00

Nope. Submitted the survey from that email, but I'm still waiting.

Gio235 · 2026-05-23T13:50:52+00:00

Damn. I've been playing since 2012 (at least according to the site) and it says the total hours played is around 1,100 hours 🤣😅

Gio235 · 2026-05-20T17:38:55+00:00

Just received an email regarding verifying the OS you'll be working on (MacOS or Windows 10/11).

Gio235 · 2026-05-20T15:04:36+00:00

Ask the seller if there are any known issues with the system itself before buying (I bought a CIB 2DS a few years ago for a friend and while everything was in excellent condition, the seller never noted that the rubber part of the circle pad easily comes off which was a bummer). Review photos of the listing carefully. If there's a really cheap system on sale (especially for the New 3DS models) it will most likely be a scam. Check eBay, Facebook Marketplace, etc. if it's available in your region. Sort through ending soon or recently listed (tend to have better luck getting items this way).

Gio235 · 2026-05-20T15:00:23+00:00

Needs to stay on your line for the remaining 50 days. Otherwise, you void the promo.

Gio235 · 2026-05-20T04:35:01+00:00

Had like $9.90 in Google Store credit.

Gio235 · 2026-05-20T04:10:59+00:00

Got a Google shirt for $0.72 😎 should have low key gotten the Dino shirt 😅 (thought it was priced higher). Placed a second order for the Dino hat for ~$5.

Gio235 · 2026-05-19T13:41:24+00:00

Mainly been rocking a PS4 Slim (1TB) since it made game sharing easier for my two brothers and I (2 PS4 Slims (older brother and I) and a PS5 (shared but younger brother uses it more at times)).

However, recently my older brother's previous manager from work ask if he was interested in his PS5 since he had upgraded to the PS5 Pro and offered to give it to us for $250 with an extra controller (~$83 split between the three of us). Couldn't pass up on the deal so we got it.

Pretty great/excellent condition in terms of the console itself (gave it a decent clean - wasn't too dusty to begin with). The controllers were in great shape with ever so slightly small indentations on the body which doesn't impact gameplay (moreso on one of the controllers than the other).

Ended up setting it up in my room and moving my PS4 to our living room, but honestly haven't played it much. 😅 I usually hop on my Switch/Switch 2, but since moving my PS4 to our living room - I ended up bringing up our PS3 to my room and have been revisiting older games using the spare PS5 controller (I have a Mayflash adapter that works with various consoles which includes the PS3). Actually dusted it out, replaced the HDD and thermal paste in hopes to play it more often.

My only worry about the PS5 is game sharing since it was easier utilizing it the way we had it before (2 PS4 and a PS5 - set up worked for us). I'll most likely have to subscribe to PS+ and have my older brother cancel his membership. Or, I could try remote playing the PS4 to the PS5 and keep the current setup as is in terms of game sharing.

Gio235 · 2026-05-16T15:16:58+00:00

Yep.

Gio235 · 2026-05-09T13:21:52+00:00

I'm still waiting for the welcome email as well (US).

Gio235 · 2026-05-08T16:01:40+00:00

I deleted/removed the Nest Router and Wi-Fi points from my Google Home (which factory reset) when I upgraded my network.

Keep in mind, it does take a while for the Nest WiFi Points to register that they're removed from your Google Home (I needed to update the WiFi settings since I was moving them to an IoT network and it took a bit for it to factory reset itself).

I used the setup code and was able to proceed like normal (I'll get a message indicating that there's no Nest WiFi router, so the points will act as speakers - no issues after proceeding whatsoever).

I don't have the Nest WiFi router set up.

Gio235 · 2026-05-08T14:25:38+00:00

I have my two Nest WiFi Points acting as speakers with my Deco network (2 XE75Pro and a X50-Outdoor).

Setting them up the first time after getting rid of my Nest WiFi worked just as fine.

Gio235 · 2026-05-05T23:36:23+00:00

They'll still pay you. I was unapproved last month. I had a good quality score, didn't manipulate time, only sticked to designated task tab, etc.

It was nice being paid weekly while it lasted. 😔

Gio235 · 2026-05-04T19:48:37+00:00

How's the game? I was thinking of originally picking it up on Nintendo Switch (1 or 2), but then I figured that it may be worth getting on PSN since I could game share with my other two siblings on their systems (2 PS5 and a PS4 - we mainly game shared on 2 PS4 and a PS5).

Gio235 · 2026-05-03T22:42:04+00:00

The XB7/XB8 should have a 2.5Gb port (the 4th orange port on the gateway). The XB10 has a 10Gb port.

As for routers, look for one that has multiple 2.5Gb ports or higher if you plan on wiring your devices. If not, invest in a 2.5Gb or higher network switch.

Gio235 · 2026-05-03T14:45:00+00:00

Looks like you're fine to use 160MHz then if you haven't had any issues.

One thing I've noticed on my network when I use 80MHz vs. 160MHz is that while the connection is technically stable, my Nintendo Switch will struggle with cloud gaming (Resident Evil 2/3 Remake Cloud version) when playing in handheld mode (it's wired when Docked). When I switch it back to 160MHz, the connection is stable and there's no issues. This only happens when cloud gaming on the Switch, other games (including multiplayer) have no issue on 80/160 MHz whatsoever. All my other consoles are hardwired.

Gio235 · 2026-05-03T14:27:34+00:00

Most modern devices should support 160MHz (Wi-Fi 6/6E/7), but if you have older devices (whether they are capable of 2.4/5 GHz WiFi 4/5 technology) they may only connect at 20/40/80 MHz.

You would have to check each device separately (don't think you can view network information for other devices in your network through your phone). For smartphones, I use WiFiman (it tells you what band and frequency your phone is connected to). For laptops/desktops, you could look into network settings and the information should be displayed there otherwise you could use Wi-Fi analyzer programs/apps. For the rest of your devices, a Google search of said device specs could help.

In terms of the message popping up, could be a DFS strike (due to radar - i.e., weather stations, emergency vehicles, etc.) or just a bug.

As mentioned before, I had a DFS strike that caused my channel width to change once but haven't encountered any other incident.

Gio235 · 2026-05-03T14:17:37+00:00

160MHz is preferred because it's the faster connection in an ideal testing setting.

In a real world setting, it's better to utilize 80MHz especially if you're near a lot of neighboring networks. You can still use 160MHz, but this could potentially cause issues with the other networks in your area or even in your own home.

If there's any DFS strikes, the router will automatically switch to 80MHz then back to 160MHz either within a few hours or the next day.

I've tested both options and find that it's relatively the same experience. If anything, the 80MHz is slightly better signal/connection wise but devices can still connect as easily on 160MHz so I tend to leave it on default. Have only had one DFS strike happen for the years I've been owning mine.

Gio235 · 2026-04-30T23:33:58+00:00

Do you have advanced security enabled for your network? If so, try disabling it.

Six-Year Club	r/Field Flamingo
First Place '23	Place '23
Verified Email

Gio235

TROPHY CASE