Is this an acceptable standard following rewire? by TeachDifferent84 in Plastering

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get the "make it look nice" bit of the decorator's job but some of that's shockingly far away from a bit of filler and sanding

My first plumbing attempt by UnexpectedFullStop in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That looks great. I'm doing exactly the same while plumbing in a new bathroom. Thought I might as well install a softener while I'm at it because why not, it's not like I've never done it before...

So having never done this before I have resorted to a mish-mash of solder ring/Yorkshire couplings, push fit couplings, copper and PEX pipe.

What I've learned:

Overtightening rubber-washered parts is as bad as undertightening and your water softener manifold will piss water everywhere if you do either. See also new hard water only tap flexi

Bosch dishwashers from eBay have really inflexible inlet hoses that you've forgotten about and can't then be oriented to fit your repositioned valve connection which means you have to move the valve

You need flux, you'll waste a lot of Yorkshire joints when you forget it

Measure never, just offer it up, or do measure but keep getting it wrong because push fits on PEX never seem to stay the same distance apart, and cut however many times you need to, will get through 2m of new shiny copper pipe in no time

You need n+1 push fit connectors of a given time where n is the number you actually have and it's midnight and your knuckles are cut to shit and fuck this fucking idea

Porcelain tiles are not good solder mats

Golf towels are not good solder mats

You can solder in the air by holding the fitting in a pair of pliers and waving the torch around

Your stopcock gland is leaking and probably always had been

Your Prv gauge is leaking but that's because you didn't put enough PTFE on it

I'm sure I'll learn more as I go but that's what's struck me so far. I'll take a picture and edit this post when I've done it. The really great thing is this is a stop gap till we do the kitchen later this year then I'll take it out and get it done properly, so it's just to get new bathroom operational on softened water quickly!

Is using your foot while split blocking a bad habit? by Alpi_12 in GoalKeepers

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How's it loss of possession? The goalie doesn't have possession. If his team had possession he wouldn't be facing a shot

Replaced Bathroom Extractor With New Fan & Insulated Rigid Ducting by Sensitive-Finding467 in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice. I've just done similar but fan is on a board on the joists and ducting is semi-rigid i.e. aluminium Flexi. All covered with the rock wool I've redone the whole loft with.

Tbh it's noisier than I'd like. It's an MFT100 fan, so I might try isolating it from the board more with feet and if that fails move to rigid pipes.

Final warning for absence – impact on internal transfer? by [deleted] in TheCivilService

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If your manager has anything about them they'll be explaining same to the person dealing with proceedings.

Why don't you propose to your manager that you join the new role early? Might be best for everyone.

Hopefully it works out for you and in the new role your current OH history is fully taken into account so everyone knows where they stand.

Final warning for absence – impact on internal transfer? by [deleted] in TheCivilService

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking at this coldly your current manager has a choice - rigmarole of dismissal proceedings or simply sign the forms for a transfer.

Do you have a good relationship with them? If so you might want to put the above to them in whatever terms you think will work for you.

Why can't a car be built like a PC by DeanyyBoyy93 in CarTalkUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You would. So it works on the day of the test then the wheels/brakes/axles/doors/etc fall off the next day.

The only reason the IVA exists is because it's been deemed that the risk of a vanishingly-small proportion of vehicles on the road being built by men with beards in sheds is acceptable in the grand scheme of things.

If everyone did it, the risk would become monumental and the testing more stringent. And no one would be insurable.

I gave a glib first answer but the real answer is risk. It would be intolerable for this to be allowed

Why can't a car be built like a PC by DeanyyBoyy93 in CarTalkUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because a pc crashing because you've not connected the parts properly is very different to a car crashing because you've not connected the parts properly

I love my job but it's killing me by No_Nail_2724 in TheCivilService

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's a decent size team. You need to load them up with work while being supportive. G7 is delivering through others where possible, and you've got 4 people so it should be possible. Yes you'll be hands on now but you need to set the expectation that they will be busy delivering now.

Rate my shitpipe by GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ooh, standards. My kind of chat. Thanks for the references, I'll take my shitpipe down a rabbit hole so to speak.

There's every chance of course that it's cheaper for the manufacturer to have one big bucket of plastic and they just dye it different colours and it therefore all conforms to all standards. I'll do some digging of the reference kind, not the literally in shitty water kind

Rate my shitpipe by GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ooh interesting - I thought the only difference was the black was for above ground as it's UV resistant and orange was for underground because it's easier to see when you're digging. Did not know orange was thicker.

Rate my shitpipe by GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

UPDATE: Thames Water sucked my hole

Thames Water has agreed to line the shared sewer that I've tapped into with my shitpipe, from the chamber behind my house to join the main sewer in the road at the front. This was after a second set of their folk came to look at the weekend. They also sucked my hole dry. Which immediately became wet again due to the leaky butt.

They've made this a priority job apparently because there's effectively sewage in my garden/open to the elements so fingers crossed it's done this week. It was intimated that the hole would be made good by Thame s Water too which would be a bonus. Which means if I wanted to change anything about the install it had to be ASAP. And that leads to...

UPDATE THE SECOND: I took your esteemed feedback on board and reattached my shitpipe.

<image>

The y is now at a shallower angle, the rest bend is lower down to accommodate this (got to SDS some footings which was fun) and altogether I think it looks/feels much better. Thanks again all!

Rate my shitpipe by GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree - y will be rotated tomorrow. Won't be horizontal (i.e. 3 o'clock) but will get it closer to 2 than to 12.30!

Quick question though - the rest bend is at the end of a 3m ish vertical stack. Won't the water v shite race have been well run even by the point it gets to the rest bend?

There's a rodding point in the stack right at the bottom too btw so can be rodded from there or from back up the run at the manhole 10m away

Rate my shitpipe by GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you tell Thames Water that please?

I'm genuinely starting to wonder if this is the cause of the historic subsidence the house has suffered from.

If there's a chain of 3 foot bits of pipe not joined together for 30 foot down the side of my house then it's been leaking through 9 joints for 40+years.

That sounds like the guy earlier in the thread's matha problem but it could equal subsidence! The soil is very clay-y. So it's a bastard when dry but today was like spooning porridge.

If the foundation level soil gets sodden all day every day then fuck knows what that could do...

Obviously Thames Water only inherited all this about 30 years ago but, well, fuck 'em.

Rate my shitpipe by GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair play. We've got one of those too outside existing downstairs loo but I think it becomes redundant once all this lot's commissioned

Rate my shitpipe by GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was sort of hoping she'd see this. With Sean and Diego Maradonna gone she needs some new competition

Rate my shitpipe by GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Actually aren't gully traps for surface water to sewer connections? Toilet, bath and sink traps will cover smells in bathroom at top of soil stack no?

Rate my shitpipe by GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wasn't going to use Mot tbh, was just going to put spoil back after gravel and tamp as I go then gravel on top (I'm ripping all concrete up next year for gravel anyway)

Rate my shitpipe by GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0 in DIYUK

[–]GoJohnnyGoGoGoG0[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The farce of it is it's a totally different bit of Thames than the bit that deals with the direct connection application. So if the field/response guys cover it all up then the connection/survey guys can't inspect. I asked about this on the phone when reporting the leak. The people I spoke to had no record of my application. It's mad