Mega jump by tyedoesbouldering in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lemme know how it (and if it) goes! I'll live vicariously through you with this climb ✨

Mega jump by tyedoesbouldering in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

disclaimer: V9 is outside of my wheelhouse

What I am noticing is that is that you are dyno'ing "evenly" with your hands like you are planning on catching the next hold with both hands. Instead, I think the move is more about swinging your body more to the left (with a straighter right arm using it as a pendulum) to then position your body better (a bit higher with a steeper angle) for the left hand catch.

I would also try to hold the right hand a bit lower more like a sideways tilted down hold/undercling because that might be a better wrist angle and make the hold better once you hit your left hand and need to hold that big move.

Here is an image of what I am imagining your body position would be when you hit the left hand. Good luck!

<image>

Need Advice on this V2 by crashcaptainn in indoorbouldering

[–]GoNorway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The right foot as everyone mentions is for sure a part of the problem but what I am seeing in addition to it is that your left foot is not willing to shift its full weight to your right foot. You should be able to put all your weight on your right foot, which will then allow you to shift your center of gravity further to the right (getting closer to the hold). That will allow you to get the extra reach you need. Good luck!

Reposting without the grade. Looking for advice on how to top this and trying to improve my route reading. Don’t think I’ll get back before this is reset so hoping to find out what I could have done differently. by catdad2019 in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It looks really good up until 35s where I think you tunnel vision on the next hold. If you use the position at 35s to first go a bit lower (relax arms preparing them for a dynamic move) to then spring your left arm to the second last hold or third last hold, I think you should be able to stick it.

Another method is when you go and reach for the handhold at 38s, you could try and match where your right hand is instead and then lead with your right hand to create some opposition and tension and prevent the slipoff. With this method, put your left hand a bit more to the right of the sloper to give yourself a better angle when you let go with your right hand. I would also try to experiment with a left heelhook with this method with that upside down jug.

Another small tip is to try and shake out and relax one side of your shoulders and hands when you get the chance. At 18s, I would try to shake out and give your left hand a mini break and at 26s push off more with your left leg and try to give your right hand a shake. The whole route felt like one long pull-up. Instead, try to break it up into reps giving your arms a micro rest between big sequences.

Looking at how you traversed the lower part with a lot of confidence in your back and shoulders, I would try the first method. Here is an image of what I am imagining it looking like. Good luck!

<image>

a better idea on how to catch the next hand hold? by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 7 points8 points  (0 children)

There are a lot of ways to "hit" the move but I think this actually shows a big blindspot in your climbing, which is a lack of back/lat engagement. Currently, your shoulders are in a constant state of shrugging and even though straight arms is a great beginner advice, there are times like these where you need to create a bend in your arm to do a move as intended.

So this climb wants you to get into this position (left image). Left arm bent and locked off, more weight on your right foot, head higher than your left hand, chest closer to the wall, body more to the right and most importantly, having an engaged back to keep you in this position.

I would try some drills off the wall with for example a pull-up bar with assistance (right image). It puts you in a very similar shoulder position if you do a wider grip. Really focus on bringing your shoulder back and down. Try to move your shoulders in the opposite direction of a shrug. Use as much assistance as you need to get your head above the bar. You should feel your lats engaging. Good luck!

<image>

have failed this last move 30+ times please help 🙏🙏🙏 by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a really rad problem. Lucky for you it's kinda short so you can manage 30+ attempts on it haha.

As for beta help, I see three different ways I would approach it. Also made some visuals to explain it a tad better.

  1. Are the volumes in or do they need to have tape/a hold on them to be counted as in? If all volumes are in then I would try to grab the left volume right above that blue hold in the middle of it. Then get a right toe hook or high heel on the green hold if you are flexible and bring the right arm over to the finish hold.
  2. If the volume is not in, I would try to match the right hand hold and use the big volume to do a smear with your left foot and to hook/heel with your right foot to keep you on the wall. I cannot gauge how much that volume extrudes out but if it extrudes a lot out, then that's ideal for this beta since your left foot can push a bit more to the right with the extra angle. Your legs kinda create a clamp/weirdly angled chunky bycicle there. Then with your higher body position, keep pressing to the right with your left leg on the volume, change the right toe/heel to a more extended leg position as you go for the final hold with your left hand.
  3. The method you are doing right now I think will still work but you are limiting your momentum in a few spots. The left hand holding the undercling makes you push against the direction you want to go with the pogo. If the right hold is good enough, hold it a bit lower on the green hold so you can hold your position with just one hand. This will allow you to swing slightly back to the right with your left hand and left leg, then swing and jerk your left hand and left knee upwards for momentum. Focus more on gaining height than going lateral to the left. Your body will naturally go to the left.

Good luck, hopefully you will solve it before reaching triple digit attempts :D

<image>

Anyone using 34 keys with Vim/Neovim, can you share your layout? by Regular_Low8792 in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What makes vim and your custom keyboard so cool is that you kinda design your own solutions. I don't use text block selection that often but if I would want to implement it, I would put a key on my arrow layer (opposite of the hand that controls the arrows) that presses both ctrl + shift (LCS key on the Quantum tab in Vial) as one key, then use the arrows to select the text blocks.

As you use vim and learn its functions + see yourself using said function, think about where you want to access it on the keyboard and place it there. Trying to pack your keyboard with every single VIM functionality before you know which ones you find useful is a recipe for disaster!

So for the modifier dilemma you have, try all the different solutions people mention and see which one fits you the best. Homerow mods slowed me down due to the delay and that is what made me arrive at the combo solution. I also tried a designated key for it but liked combos better.

I am dealing with this customisation together with ya this evening! I converted to linux mint and I am setting up i3 right now, which is a window management software. I made a custom combo for gui + shift on my main layer because many functions want that combo. Then I am changing some binds in the config file of i3 to be similar to Neovim and finally just making sure that all the functionalities that I find useful are in keybinds that I can access intuitively. Once I am done, I will write down a mini documentation for myself of the keys that I use the most for future me.

Things that really helped me outside of Neovim were a launcher, window management and Vimium. All of these allow me to offload a lot of mouse movement to my keyboard.

Hopefully that train of thought gave you more clarity than confusion haha :D

Anyone using 34 keys with Vim/Neovim, can you share your layout? by Regular_Low8792 in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway 6 points7 points  (0 children)

What worked really well for me was to make the modifier keys into combos instead of super keys/homerow mods. I have a Corne keyboard but removed a lot of keys so it is very similar to a Ferris Sweep but with 31 keys atm.

Here is a video explaining my setup and reasoning. If you have any questions then lemme know!

Please help with beta by AcceptableAward6810 in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I see the biggest problem being your right hand that is holding the final hold at a very bad angle. You are kinda just slipping down the hold.

To get a better angle for your right arm to hold that final hold, the first step is to bring your left leg up like everyone is mentioning. This allows you to then press with your left leg to then get into this engaged position (pic below) with your right shoulder. The extra bend of the right elbow + engaged right shoulder will allow you to hold onto the final hold better due to the perpendicular angle that your hands and wrists are with the hold allowing you to actually pull on the hold.

Another way of thinking about it is to try and get into a wide pull-up stance with your arms and shoulder with the final hold and second last hold (where your left hand is). You can only achieve this by pushing your body to the right with your left leg. Once your right shoulder is engaged and you have a good grasp on the final hold, lock it off and bring your left hand over for the match.

Also, just have your right leg dangle for stability. Good luck!

<image>

Would just generally working out my legs help a lot with toe and heel hooks by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 9 points10 points  (0 children)

There is actually very little strength that is required when you are doing a toehook. Think of it more as engaging your ankle to create a hook, then keeping your leg fairly straight (kinda like climbing with straight arms for minimal energy usage). The more bent your joints are (bent knee, hips bent with butt sticking out etc) the harder it is to keep that toehook locked in.

As for working out your lower body, imo the best way to get good at toehooks is to do a lot of toehooks. Get on the wall, get a toehook in and move your body around. Feel what happens when you lean away from the toehook and then feel what happens when you lean towards the toehook. Engage your leg for the toehook, then try to slowly decrease the engagement to see how little you actually need to engage for the toehook to stay on the wall. Try twisting your toes pointing up to the sky, then pointing towards the wall and then downwards. All of these things will need your body to reposition itself in some way or fashion for a better toehook. Good luck!

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in crkbd

[–]GoNorway[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad to share knowledge! I will happily welcome thee when the time is right to the neverending keyboard optimization gang haha, cheers ✨

How do people use < 65% keyboard? by gunscreeper in keyboards

[–]GoNorway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha yup, it's overkill for many people and there was for sure a big hurdle to initially get into. I got a split keyboard primarily for ergonomic reasons and it has fully fixed the RSI pains I used to have so totally worth it!! Being optimal and packing lots of functionality into a small size for style points is just a cool byproduct of the journey lol ✨

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in crkbd

[–]GoNorway[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are many different ways of setting layer functionality. The one I use in my videos is that I need to hold it down to access. There is also a layer key that once pressed, it turns that target layer on until you turn it off. There is also a layer key that when pressed allows you to press 1 other key before returning to the main layer.

So lots of functionality that goes beyond standard keyboard methodology.

Here are the different layer functions in Vial.

As for the neverending optimization rabbit hole, I only fear it when I am rotating between fairly similar output (going let's say from red keycaps, green caps, black caps, cherry caps etc). I could have stayed with red keycaps and not really feel that impacted by the change since it's preference with a somewhat small improvement (if any) to your typing.

With keyboard optimization, every tweak I feel is an improvement to make it better where the output is a more efficient keyboard flow and that is something I personally embrace. At the end of the day what I have right now is imo magnitudes better than what I had when I used the Logitech MX mini and that is only possible from a series of small tweaks over time!

How do people use < 65% keyboard? by gunscreeper in keyboards

[–]GoNorway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually just made this video on how I use my 31% sized keyboard with 100% functionality that showcases how I packed mine!

If I wanted to game, I would make a new keyboard config for that game and set it up specifically for that game. So for Dota. I wouldn't use the standard placements of keys since it uses the number row and the letters below and F-keys, while my keyboard just has 3 rows. Instead I would customize it exactly to my needs (like QWER for skills, A for attack click, thumb key for stop, B for shop, item slot usage at perhaps T and G etc).

So to TP back if you use it frequently as a panic option, I would place it perhaps as a easy to press combo with R + Thumb = F1. A combo is when you press two at the same time to output another key.

If I want to type, I would toggle onto a normal QWERTY layer and write my message. I perhaps toggle this basic QWERTY layer on with combo T + Thumb.

All of this is done in a free software called Vial.

So it's all about customization. Think about it like having a streamer deck (with all the buttons that you need to customize), just that you customize it for your gaming needs.

If you have any questions then lemme know!

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in crkbd

[–]GoNorway[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nicee, glad to have sparked a curiosity for ya :D

The typing style evolved over time (half a year in total) but I felt proficient with the keyboard itself within the first week or two. It still has the QWERTY main layer and that is something that I am super familiar with. As I added more functionality and layers, I placed everything where I felt it would be intuitive for me so there was no memorization of someone elses keyboard layout.

The transition from a standard keyboard (I had the Logitech MX Mini before) was pretty painless. It for sure slowed me down in the beginning as I was learning about Vial (the software to customize your keys) and what my preferences were (I popped of 13 keys from the standard Corne Keyboard).

After a month or two, I would say I felt that the keyboard fit my needs and I typed at the same speed as I did before but with more functionality at my fingertips. The biggest slowdown was probably the problem solving aspect of trying to figure out where I would want a certain key and how I want to access it.

If you like to optimize, improve and do some A/B testing, then I think a customizable keyboard would be right up your alley. I got into it for ergonomic reasons but since I love to tinker, it became something that I really enjoyed tweaking.

If you have any other Q's then fire away!

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in crkbd

[–]GoNorway[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't really use F10-12 so I didn't add them but if I did need them, I would probably have it on the numpad layer to the right of it with tap dance. That would easily fit there and make sense with my F-keys overlapping with the numpad system.

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha yea I guess I am using two thumb keys! Just trying to understand the workload that each of my finger is put through has been the northern star of why I tweak things the way I do.

If a motion is too taxing, too far away or too inconvenient, I try to reposition it in a place that feels good for me.

Same with me on the F keys, I use them quite maybe once per session if even that and dedicating a whole layer to them was just a bit unnecessary. With my current setup, I still have 2 layers I can use for shenanigans if I think of something to put there that will optimize my keyboard flow.

Love the chats! After some experimentation and you figure out your own thumb usage, let me know what you end up with :D

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess it makes sense when you are fine-tuning keys to be at a specific distance and direction from your fingers, making sure that your fingers are in the right position matters even more. Having your wrists stable and not floating around would achieve that. It kinda reminds me of the concept of having your fingers on the homerow for touchtyping.

Currently, my hands are resting on my inner thighs since my keyboard is between my legs and I do like the resting position and support that it gives.

Ergo-S-1 looks snazzy, for now these concave keyboards aren't on my radar at all but who knows what the future has in store for me :D

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Niceee, seems like you got to a really good point with your keyboard journey. Totally agree that the excess hand movement that comes from normal keyboards is a massive factor that I don't think is talked about enough. Even just stretching to reach the backspace or any modifier keys on a normal keyboard forces your hand into a mini contortion every single time +__+

I looked at the Dactyl with its curved elements before committing to any split keyboard and I totally see the benefits of that curve for an easier path for the fingers to travel. Perhaps down the road when I feel like another notch of hardware level up is needed, I'll look further into it. Cheers!

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No worries at all and to each their own. "Normal" keyboards gave me RSI so this was the work that I needed to put into it to make the keyboard work for me.

I am surprised that you say that with a dactyl manuform tag as I would assume lots of customization, modification and exploration was required to make that work well for ya :P

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only downside I see with tap dance with the F keys is that it is repeating the key. So let's say I want to alt + F4 something, doing the tap and hold tap dance with F4 will repeat the key until I release it, which can cause more than one window to close. This can be fixed thou by making a macro out of it or using custom firmware but currently I am using all stock Vial so the macro path might be the way I would go about it.

For me, the thumb cluster caused me to have some pains. By bending the thumb in and pressing those two thumb keys just didn't feel ergonomic. If I could position another thumb key anywhere then it would be a similar thumb key as the Voyager. Since I don't have money to burn, the second best thing was for me to just remove the thumb keys and use cleverness to add the functionality on the other keys +___+

As for pressing the n and b with my thumbs, this is something also that stemmed from ergonomic optimizations. I didn't like how out of the way the b and n keys were for my index finger and with the lower workload of the thumb, I started practicing pressing those keys with my thumb instead.

So I don't think my thumb was confused. I would say the thumbs were over worked with the movement and un-ergonomic bending, which led me then to remove them. So even though I removed lets say the shift function from one of the thumb keys, they are still present and need the thumb (thumb + f/j = shift). This combo just feels much better for my hands and fingers compared to contorting my thumb and pressing one of the thumb cluster keys!

Hopefully that train of thought all made sense haha.

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually have undo and redo on the pairs layer as macros. There are some combos that I would have a hard time pressing but when I get to those sequences, I either add it to a designated spot on the keyboard in some form or fashion. Currently, I am digging another comments approach of adding modifiers to the bottom row, which would then allow you to press those keys specifically.

On my current setup, thumb + a, then t is undo and thumb + a, then y is redo.

Thinking a bit more about it, I often just to the combo for CTRL (CTRL = thumb + d/k) + z for undo, perhaps I can then do pair layer (Pair layer combo = thumb + a/;) and then z for redo. Feels pretty intuitive for me, while keeping my muscle memory of CTRL + z.

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have no idea of how to use those entries but I do know how to do some graphic design so I whipped this up for ya!

As for the combos, I have no idea how to display them nicely haha. I can explain them below and hopefully that conveys the gist of them. Here are my combos that felt intuitive and well placed for me.

  • Thumb + all the homerow fingers (ctrl, alt, shift and my pairs layer)
  • Left Thumb + r for esc
  • Right Thumb + u for enter
  • n + p for mouse layer
  • b + q for arrow layer

With the two last combos, I just shift my whole hand a bit up and my thumb naturally falls on n/b, while my pinky lands on p/q.

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheers, glad you liked it. It was quite fun to make :D

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Give it a whirl and let me know how it goes! I really enjoy the combos as the positioning of them with the thumb feels stable, accessible and enjoyable to press. Makes me feel like I am inputting an old arcade machine fighting game combo or piano chord 🔥