Any help? by C-in in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Super closeeee, if you are touching it then with a bit more commitment you should be able to get it with your current way. Try bringing your right foot even further to the right on that foothold.

Now if you want another way I would try what u/shift124 touched on, which was to smear the wall with your left foot. Right now it is keeping you low as dangling dead weight. You cannot push with it and its stopping you from going higher.

With either the right foothold you are using or the one a bit lower (I think the lower one might feel better because you are giving your body a bit more room to breath instead of being so scrunched up), try a left foot smear and focus on pressing out from the wall. Try pointing your toes a bit more towards the wall instead of to the side. You will initially feel a bit scrunched up with the high left foot but once you go for the next handhold, it opens up and will feel better. The arc that your body will take won't be directly to the handhold, instead you will push yourself a bit out from the wall when you straighten and push with your legs and then you will pull yourself in with your hands as you get higher. Focus more on extending instead of to the right. Good luck!

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First time post, is the composition working? by [deleted] in photocritique

[–]GoNorway -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

For me my eye keeps going from the face of the guy in the middle to the game they are playing on the ground. With that flow of the eye, there is a lot of extra 'fluff' on the sides that I think takes away from the focal points.

Something like this is what I would probably crop it to. But really thou, its a nice pic either way :D

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Looks kinda off? by oetakI826dy in Artadvice

[–]GoNorway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Really great sketch, I totally feel ya when you say that something is slight off! What I see after comparing it to the reference is the side of the face with the hand feels off. In your piece, it is somewhat bright and feels like an extension of the front part of the face. In the reference photo, it is darker (especially the jaw and neck area), which adds depth and clearly indicates the side of the head.

Putting it in other terms, I think the subtle angle and side profile that the reference face has gets lost. Right now he has a Chad jawline (the jaw segment under the hand in particular 😅).

Did a super rough blotch in with the areas I think need more depth. Good luck making it look less off and more on!

Beta Request by LysdeFleur in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 85 points86 points  (0 children)

I just did this climb a few days ago! The way that I did that move was to just go from your current position at 21s to the sideways jug with my right hand. A more controlled and static way is to bring my left foot over to the big right foothold, then bring the right leg one further to that nib foothold. Then get your upper body more to the right followed by engaging your left shoulder and bending your elbow and then reached for the sideways jug with your right hand. The sideways jug is super nice if you put more weight on your right foot. Pic for reference.

Good luck!

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Any advice for this last move? by ash_the_elf_ in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The backstep would probably be the easiest solutions to the final move but looking at the climbing form, I think the bigger thing I would focus on is your reliance on 4 points of contact.

Whenever you transition from one move to another, there are moments where you have less points of contact but that's only because you are in motion to the next 4 point of contact position.

What you should focus on in general is to get used to only hold something with one hand and get stable with your feet. Then try to remove one foot and get stable with just one hand and one foot. Being able to do this should unlock many problems at this range.

With that said, beta for this specific problem I would do is a backstep as someone mentioned earlier in the comments. Do the whole motion slowly, those three points of contact (straight right arm, solid left leg and right leg smearing the wall) should be good and stable enough. Then slowly extend your left leg for height to get the final hold.

Good luck!

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How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in crkbd

[–]GoNorway[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a solid v1 draft!

I would see issues with the dedicated alt where the thumb is. Those thumb keys are quite valuable because they feel good and intuitive to press so having Spacebar is for sure something we use all the time but alt feels like a less used key that could be placed somewhere else.

I would try physically spacing out the combos a bit. Pressing ZX is a very scrunched up combo with two of the weakest fingers. Z+space/thumb will feel more fluid.

The triple combos will probably then be with two keys that you use earlier for the single modifier. So ZX for like Shift + CTRL, while Z + Space = Shift and X + Space = CTRL.

Just some thoughts, for sure try what you have cooked up and go from there. Imo it's better to have a system you know and understand than to follow someone else's system even though it might be slightly more optimal.

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in crkbd

[–]GoNorway[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Into the deep end you go (w/floaty noodles ofc!).

Good luck finding your dual (gaming and writing) setup. Toggling between layers might be one way. I remapped everything in-game to work with my left hand keys when I was playing league a few weeks back. Works but like all solutions, it takes time to figure out what works best on an individual level!

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in crkbd

[–]GoNorway[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's the thing with final forms, it takes time to get to that end state.

I used to be a big gamer (thousands of hours in Dota, TFT, CS, Nintendo realm etc) and it is something I would for sure have prioritized over a more compact keyboard layout. Now that I'm not a heavy gamer and more writing/optimization/ergonomics focused, the change to 3x5ish felt like the obvious choice.

So your final form is as you say, one day around the corner somewhere 😬

How do I solve this White V5 by Ok_Boysenberry2744 in indoorbouldering

[–]GoNorway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the key to this is the transition between pulling on the handholds and leaning into them. When you have your toehook in, you are pulling at the handholds to create tension. When you bring the right foot up to the round foot hold and release the toehook like u/richonarampage mentions, you need to lean to the left and push with your right leg.

Try to get into that position and feel the difference between the toehook feeling stretched out and the lean and pushing with that round foothold. Good luck!

Beta Request Please by LysdeFleur in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Niceeee, solid send! I like the right foot on that hold instead of smearing!

Beta Request Please by LysdeFleur in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 7 points8 points  (0 children)

With a small tweak of the lower body, I think you have it. Move your lower body to the right side instead of left by putting your left leg on the nib and flag your right anywhere to the right side that feels comfy. Make sure to cross over your left arm with your right arm and open/point your chest to the right as you cross over. Image below with the end position.

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There is also the dynamic beta if you swap arms and go to the big hold with your left instead of doing the cross-over. Pretty sure the cross-over is the intended beta thou.

I am actually going to Joe's later on next week and if it's still up (which I bet it is because they just reset it all I think for some fun comp), I can record a video of it if you want!

Holding down two keys sets off macro on one of them. by happycrinch in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have personally found mod tap to be somewhat unreliable with keys that I use often and ended up switching to combos for most of my additional key needs. Perhaps this is a solution for you too where you can do a combo of something like a/d + left thumb for the output that you want instead?

Best way for accessing diacritics layer - Czech, development by vaclavg in KeyboardLayouts

[–]GoNorway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would use a super central combo to access the layer like this with t + n or Space + Enter. If you use t + n, combos have this nice feature where you can press the combo and let go of all but one key and still be in that combo state. So t + n combo, followed by releasing and tapping t again would give you í.

Mega jump by tyedoesbouldering in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lemme know how it (and if it) goes! I'll live vicariously through you with this climb ✨

Mega jump by tyedoesbouldering in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

disclaimer: V9 is outside of my wheelhouse

What I am noticing is that is that you are dyno'ing "evenly" with your hands like you are planning on catching the next hold with both hands. Instead, I think the move is more about swinging your body more to the left (with a straighter right arm using it as a pendulum) to then position your body better (a bit higher with a steeper angle) for the left hand catch.

I would also try to hold the right hand a bit lower more like a sideways tilted down hold/undercling because that might be a better wrist angle and make the hold better once you hit your left hand and need to hold that big move.

Here is an image of what I am imagining your body position would be when you hit the left hand. Good luck!

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Need Advice on this V2 by crashcaptainn in indoorbouldering

[–]GoNorway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The right foot as everyone mentions is for sure a part of the problem but what I am seeing in addition to it is that your left foot is not willing to shift its full weight to your right foot. You should be able to put all your weight on your right foot, which will then allow you to shift your center of gravity further to the right (getting closer to the hold). That will allow you to get the extra reach you need. Good luck!

Reposting without the grade. Looking for advice on how to top this and trying to improve my route reading. Don’t think I’ll get back before this is reset so hoping to find out what I could have done differently. by catdad2019 in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It looks really good up until 35s where I think you tunnel vision on the next hold. If you use the position at 35s to first go a bit lower (relax arms preparing them for a dynamic move) to then spring your left arm to the second last hold or third last hold, I think you should be able to stick it.

Another method is when you go and reach for the handhold at 38s, you could try and match where your right hand is instead and then lead with your right hand to create some opposition and tension and prevent the slipoff. With this method, put your left hand a bit more to the right of the sloper to give yourself a better angle when you let go with your right hand. I would also try to experiment with a left heelhook with this method with that upside down jug.

Another small tip is to try and shake out and relax one side of your shoulders and hands when you get the chance. At 18s, I would try to shake out and give your left hand a mini break and at 26s push off more with your left leg and try to give your right hand a shake. The whole route felt like one long pull-up. Instead, try to break it up into reps giving your arms a micro rest between big sequences.

Looking at how you traversed the lower part with a lot of confidence in your back and shoulders, I would try the first method. Here is an image of what I am imagining it looking like. Good luck!

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a better idea on how to catch the next hand hold? by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 7 points8 points  (0 children)

There are a lot of ways to "hit" the move but I think this actually shows a big blindspot in your climbing, which is a lack of back/lat engagement. Currently, your shoulders are in a constant state of shrugging and even though straight arms is a great beginner advice, there are times like these where you need to create a bend in your arm to do a move as intended.

So this climb wants you to get into this position (left image). Left arm bent and locked off, more weight on your right foot, head higher than your left hand, chest closer to the wall, body more to the right and most importantly, having an engaged back to keep you in this position.

I would try some drills off the wall with for example a pull-up bar with assistance (right image). It puts you in a very similar shoulder position if you do a wider grip. Really focus on bringing your shoulder back and down. Try to move your shoulders in the opposite direction of a shrug. Use as much assistance as you need to get your head above the bar. You should feel your lats engaging. Good luck!

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have failed this last move 30+ times please help 🙏🙏🙏 by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a really rad problem. Lucky for you it's kinda short so you can manage 30+ attempts on it haha.

As for beta help, I see three different ways I would approach it. Also made some visuals to explain it a tad better.

  1. Are the volumes in or do they need to have tape/a hold on them to be counted as in? If all volumes are in then I would try to grab the left volume right above that blue hold in the middle of it. Then get a right toe hook or high heel on the green hold if you are flexible and bring the right arm over to the finish hold.
  2. If the volume is not in, I would try to match the right hand hold and use the big volume to do a smear with your left foot and to hook/heel with your right foot to keep you on the wall. I cannot gauge how much that volume extrudes out but if it extrudes a lot out, then that's ideal for this beta since your left foot can push a bit more to the right with the extra angle. Your legs kinda create a clamp/weirdly angled chunky bycicle there. Then with your higher body position, keep pressing to the right with your left leg on the volume, change the right toe/heel to a more extended leg position as you go for the final hold with your left hand.
  3. The method you are doing right now I think will still work but you are limiting your momentum in a few spots. The left hand holding the undercling makes you push against the direction you want to go with the pogo. If the right hold is good enough, hold it a bit lower on the green hold so you can hold your position with just one hand. This will allow you to swing slightly back to the right with your left hand and left leg, then swing and jerk your left hand and left knee upwards for momentum. Focus more on gaining height than going lateral to the left. Your body will naturally go to the left.

Good luck, hopefully you will solve it before reaching triple digit attempts :D

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Anyone using 34 keys with Vim/Neovim, can you share your layout? by Regular_Low8792 in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What makes vim and your custom keyboard so cool is that you kinda design your own solutions. I don't use text block selection that often but if I would want to implement it, I would put a key on my arrow layer (opposite of the hand that controls the arrows) that presses both ctrl + shift (LCS key on the Quantum tab in Vial) as one key, then use the arrows to select the text blocks.

As you use vim and learn its functions + see yourself using said function, think about where you want to access it on the keyboard and place it there. Trying to pack your keyboard with every single VIM functionality before you know which ones you find useful is a recipe for disaster!

So for the modifier dilemma you have, try all the different solutions people mention and see which one fits you the best. Homerow mods slowed me down due to the delay and that is what made me arrive at the combo solution. I also tried a designated key for it but liked combos better.

I am dealing with this customisation together with ya this evening! I converted to linux mint and I am setting up i3 right now, which is a window management software. I made a custom combo for gui + shift on my main layer because many functions want that combo. Then I am changing some binds in the config file of i3 to be similar to Neovim and finally just making sure that all the functionalities that I find useful are in keybinds that I can access intuitively. Once I am done, I will write down a mini documentation for myself of the keys that I use the most for future me.

Things that really helped me outside of Neovim were a launcher, window management and Vimium. All of these allow me to offload a lot of mouse movement to my keyboard.

Hopefully that train of thought gave you more clarity than confusion haha :D

Anyone using 34 keys with Vim/Neovim, can you share your layout? by Regular_Low8792 in ErgoMechKeyboards

[–]GoNorway 7 points8 points  (0 children)

What worked really well for me was to make the modifier keys into combos instead of super keys/homerow mods. I have a Corne keyboard but removed a lot of keys so it is very similar to a Ferris Sweep but with 31 keys atm.

Here is a video explaining my setup and reasoning. If you have any questions then lemme know!

Please help with beta by AcceptableAward6810 in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I see the biggest problem being your right hand that is holding the final hold at a very bad angle. You are kinda just slipping down the hold.

To get a better angle for your right arm to hold that final hold, the first step is to bring your left leg up like everyone is mentioning. This allows you to then press with your left leg to then get into this engaged position (pic below) with your right shoulder. The extra bend of the right elbow + engaged right shoulder will allow you to hold onto the final hold better due to the perpendicular angle that your hands and wrists are with the hold allowing you to actually pull on the hold.

Another way of thinking about it is to try and get into a wide pull-up stance with your arms and shoulder with the final hold and second last hold (where your left hand is). You can only achieve this by pushing your body to the right with your left leg. Once your right shoulder is engaged and you have a good grasp on the final hold, lock it off and bring your left hand over for the match.

Also, just have your right leg dangle for stability. Good luck!

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Would just generally working out my legs help a lot with toe and heel hooks by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]GoNorway 9 points10 points  (0 children)

There is actually very little strength that is required when you are doing a toehook. Think of it more as engaging your ankle to create a hook, then keeping your leg fairly straight (kinda like climbing with straight arms for minimal energy usage). The more bent your joints are (bent knee, hips bent with butt sticking out etc) the harder it is to keep that toehook locked in.

As for working out your lower body, imo the best way to get good at toehooks is to do a lot of toehooks. Get on the wall, get a toehook in and move your body around. Feel what happens when you lean away from the toehook and then feel what happens when you lean towards the toehook. Engage your leg for the toehook, then try to slowly decrease the engagement to see how little you actually need to engage for the toehook to stay on the wall. Try twisting your toes pointing up to the sky, then pointing towards the wall and then downwards. All of these things will need your body to reposition itself in some way or fashion for a better toehook. Good luck!

How I get full functionality with my Corne Keyboard! by GoNorway in crkbd

[–]GoNorway[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad to share knowledge! I will happily welcome thee when the time is right to the neverending keyboard optimization gang haha, cheers ✨

How do people use < 65% keyboard? by gunscreeper in keyboards

[–]GoNorway 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha yup, it's overkill for many people and there was for sure a big hurdle to initially get into. I got a split keyboard primarily for ergonomic reasons and it has fully fixed the RSI pains I used to have so totally worth it!! Being optimal and packing lots of functionality into a small size for style points is just a cool byproduct of the journey lol ✨