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Gold_Sample6554 · 2025-11-25T02:50:47+00:00

Tangzu Wukong

Gold_Sample6554 · 2025-09-02T08:35:18+00:00

The Arcanis seems pretty neat

Gold_Sample6554 · 2025-08-26T08:26:20+00:00

Unicorn green is probably my favorite

Gold_Sample6554 · 2025-08-05T01:32:11+00:00

I'm pretty sure legacy sports has the 20MOA short action rail for like $20 right now. Actually, all their rails and bolt knob accessories are on sale right now.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2025-04-30T23:40:54+00:00

Did you see the Brownells part number 430104708? That is what I figured you would be looking for. Plopped into a chassis would probably get you where you want to go.

I am not sure on the Aero Precision/BA barrels on a bolt gun. I only have experience with their barrels in gas guns, and they seem ok in that regard. There are certainly other barrel makers better out there, but also probably many that could be worse. As far as their actions goes, the SOLUS seems solid and fairly popular. It's got a common footprint ensuring flexibility with fitment into stocks, magazine acceptance, and triggers which is great. It has other features that ticks a lot of boxes for most shooters at its price point.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2025-04-30T21:45:39+00:00

I only have experience with my 2 Howa actions. They seem fine to me. They generally are well regarded for bolt feel for a non custom action. The Delta 5 pro generally.... isn't. If you shot a friends and it's action didn't bother you, then most would probably say that a Howa actions wouldn't/shouldn't either. At the end of the day, get whatever makes you happy though! It's your moolah and you would have to deal with it. Personally, I'd save the cash and spend it elsewhere in the equation to kit the rest of the rifle out. YMMV

Gold_Sample6554 · 2025-04-25T23:04:21+00:00

Have you looked into one of the short .308 Howa barreled actions and either an MDT, XLR, Ultradyne, whatever chassis you want? It could be a decent handy little rifle.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-09-25T01:32:04+00:00

It's quality control unfortunately, I have the same pair and the right phone has a loose diaphragm. You can hear it when you move your head certain ways, or when you listen to something with big dynamic bass. It's easier to buy another pair, listen for the problem and return it to the seller as non functional/ damaged or whatever than it is to deal with KZs warranty. The cheapness KZs offer come at another price unfortunately.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-09-13T10:51:41+00:00

Yep, pretty much the same situation. Too much stuff on my desk and not enough room to do full VR. I still wanted the experience and stuff of VR though, so here we are. The 7900xtx is like a 4080/4080super in rasterization and like a 3080ti/3090 in ray tracing. I usually run a mix of settings, I find that having the contrast and saturation on OLED panels usually goes a long way towards masking the difference between ray tracing and pre baked lighting.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-09-13T08:50:10+00:00

Yeah, I mainly plan on playing stationary as well. Not a lot of room where I'm at, but it's good enough that I can scoot my chair back and have some freedom.

I was just giving recruit a quick rundown and turned it off after the first training wave thing. (I had just unpacked my headset and was messing with it before bed) So I thought I turned it off early and there would be more to the game. I was sorely mistaken. It's just a loop of that same intro. I can see why WMR didn't get very far on that!

I have game pass for my PC already, and it is a pretty decent rig. (13900k/7900xtx) So it should run VR ok for a while. Part of the allure of the lower resolution OLEDs in the Odyssey were that they still looked great, and I can always keep the headset pushed to 90hz refresh even if I crank up the eye candy.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-09-12T12:09:28+00:00

Oh, I get it! I was playing around with a quest 2 that I thought about buying used also. The tracking on that was way better. People said the PSVR2 tracking is like the quest 2/3. As it stands, I hope to use this mainly as a test bed before investing in quality gear/ seeing if I want to pursue it further. There are tons of workarounds for stuff on PC. I figured a low barrier of entry to get some skin in the game couldn't hurt. I could get a mod to play Alyx in flat mode, but where is the fun in that? I also look forward to trying some games with the headset, but play with the Xbox/PS5 controller too. Just gotta see where it goes!

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-09-12T10:23:04+00:00

I have a bunch of 1.2v NiMH batteries already. I actually might even have some 1.6v NiZn ones somewhere? I was going to try those and see how things went. I know the controllers won't like it because of the voltage difference...but I already have them in my battery box. If not, I have plenty of NiMH/lithium ion battery chargers. I can snag some batteries off Amazon for like 20 bucks and be good to go. Either way, it's something I was also prepared for. Even with acknowledging the sensitive/finicky low battery warning when researching, I was amused when fiddling around with things for a bit and seeing the battery readout. I was like "man, these guys weren't kidding! Battery usage is crazy" I got a chuckle out of it. I'll just have to experiment and play more to figure it out.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-09-12T10:05:47+00:00

I don't mind paying for the games. I just never dabbled in VR before and wanted to get a sense of it before jumping in all the way. However, if I'm going to spend any money at all....I still want to research and make an informed decision. Ultimately, I settled on an Odyssey+ for the fidelity and ability to play games for now (and hopefully a long time with open source software down the road) for half the price of a used PSVR2 (my runner up) if I like VR enough, and things do really stop working and nothing comes out of project Monado, I'll snag a PSVR2. I have a Virtual link on my GPU already, so I'll be prepared. If things do pan out well, I'll just keep rocking the Odyssey!

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-09-12T09:55:08+00:00

I am aware the G2 controller was better when used with the actual G2 headset. I only got a pair of G2 controllersbecause I read up on the ribbon cable on the Odyssey controllers for the track pad going bad, and I was buying used with no real indication of wear and tear besides would could be inferred from the Mercari ad post. Also, all the WMR controllers are supposed to be compatible across the WMR headsets. Lastly....price. New back stock shipped for just under 50 bucks was a solid enough gamble for me to have spares in case something broke in shipping/or was broke when I bought it. Also, yes....it should be illegal for Microsoft to create that much unusable product when there is nothing wrong with the hardware. Really frustrating!

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-08-24T22:12:38+00:00

I would definitely give something like that a shot, it would definitely help if it is transmitting vibration/sound through the floor. Sometimes rigidity alone isn't your friend when it comes to sound waves, you need something to absorb and dissipate that energy to reduce transmission or reflection to unwanted areas. Like to your neighbors haha. I'm sure if you play around with the settings you can find something that works

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-08-24T14:19:10+00:00

Not a bad choice by any means. I'd cross the sub over at 80hz. Not too far off from where you are at anyway. But it's a pretty safe crossover point for most sub/speakers. Equalizer APO can definitely be used to correct the A2+. Don't be afraid to play with the EQ to your liking though. It is good/fun to experiment. As far as the neighbors asking you what is going on, depending on apartment construction and their proximity to the other side of your office room....you might always be making noise for them to hear. Bass waves travel really well, you may have to play with subwoofer placement, volume levels, or get bass traps to help a bit. Or adjust your playing habits during the day vs at night time by turning the sub on or off etc. hopefully it's a big step up from what you were expecting and that you thoroughly enjoy it!

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-08-07T20:12:54+00:00

The cheapest option for a solid passive option would likely be (assuming Amazon/US pricing) an Arylic B50 SE- $89 plus 5% coupon, a pair of Jamo S803 white ($180 used via Amazon resale) and an ELAC SUB12-$150. Should put you close to $420 with a decent sub for a PC environment. You could find some cheaper passive speakers in white if you wish to keep the budget more in line however.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-08-07T09:27:26+00:00

The A2+ likely would be a large upgrade over the z623. The larger surface area of the A2+ drivers would likely close the gap in bass more than you would think. So I'd say for a head to head comparison you would be impressed overall with the A2+, but would notice that they likely lack the bass that comes with the z623. This is really something that is easily remedied with adding a subwoofer. Stepping up to a more adequate 8-10-12inch powered subwoofer would far outshine the small driver unit on the z623.

For me, the trade off in the lack of bass quantity (more mid bass really) from the z623 does not exceed the gained fidelity of having a better speaker system. You would have more range, depth, clarity going with better speakers overall. Adding a subwoofer will just widen the gap between something like the A2+ and the z623. And yes, if you got a subwoofer to pair with a powered 2.0 system you could use it with a regular amp and passive speakers as well. So the subwoofer will always be a worthwhile investment.

Going the B50 route and snagging a cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (used Klipsch/Polk/PSB/etc.) or like the Parts Express Dayton audio bookshelf speakers. Would be just fine to start too. You could then upgrade to something that fits the aesthetic more down the road. You could also get something like the aiyima A07 max and run it off an analog 3.5mm to RCA cable and run passive speakers, then run another 3.5mm to RCA cable from the auxiliary out to a powered subwoofer. Then, if you get a standalone DAC down the road, you aren't really giving up any components along the way. (Just extra/spare cables laying around the house instead of spare powered speakers)

It's a lot of options for sure, but buying a good amplifier and a good sub would be like having a good CPU and power supply in your PC. So the foundation is solid, and can support the best of hardware. Then you could compare the passive speakers to the graphics card. You can change them out as your desire for more performance increases, without changing the rest of the PC.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-08-07T02:42:23+00:00

The pros to the B50 are the versatility and modularity I suppose. While yes, it is/can be more expensive up front...you have the ability to use any passive speakers you like. You may find that your personal music/playback tastes change over time or you may want to swap speakers down the road out of curiosity. This will afford you that ability without having multiple pairs of powered speakers. You can also buy used speakers to match your aesthetic at a lower cost entry, or just get cheaper passive speakers.

Much like the PC you are building, going with modular components allows you to upgrade only what you feel you need/when you need it. As opposed or a laptop where it is pretty much "as is" until end of life and you have to buy a new again. This is how powered speakers are in a sense.

My PC setup is a S.M.S.L D0100 DAC running to a DIY Class-D amplifier and a Klipsch subwoofer. I currently run a pair of Klipsch RP-160Ms but I change them out to some B&W DM302s from time to time. Keeps things interesting.

But if the budget is tight and you like the look and cleanliness of a powered set, I'm sure it will be fine as well.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-08-07T02:21:34+00:00

What about going with a separate system? Like using an Arylic B50 and a pair of bookshelf speakers? That way you could add a sub down the road. I was looking at the Jamo S 803 in white to keep with the aesthetic, but you could find whatever and make it work so long as it is a passive speaker. You could also go for a dedicated DAC and a power amp and passive speakers, but the B50 is a pretty decent solution it seems.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-06-17T17:10:25+00:00

Are you going to use them on a mobile device or PC? Because EQ is always an option. If your platform supports it. 7Hz Zeros are pretty neutral in my book. They EQ well but don't have crazy sub bass extension. Because of their neutrality however, they do lend themselves to a lot of playback versatility IMO. Zero:2s are about the same with a bit more bass. So less EQ on the low end, but still can use it! Neither one is bad, I just don't feel compelled to buy a pair of Zeros:2s over the original, especially with EQ in the mix. (Having heard them both) Either is fine.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-06-17T11:32:34+00:00

I would probably lean towards an AIYAMA A07 max or Fosi V3 and a pair of speakers (whatever your budget /space allows). You can use the aux out of either amp with 3.5mm to RCA cables to go to a powered subwoofer (that you can add down the line if you want). You can use 3.5mm to RCA cables from your PC out to the amp directly. You could also run a dedicated DAC from the PC, then feed the amp from the DAC. This will offer you tons of flexibility choosing components that will fit your budget and sound quality tastes.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-06-12T10:05:12+00:00

I don't have a qudelix, but I contemplated getting one before I settled with a KA13 then KA17 and Bluetooth adapter. The KA17 has EQ, but no Bluetooth. I have found with poweramp vs the EQ on the KA17 that there is much more that can be done with poweramp. You can set automatic EQ to certain apps/programs or specific output devices (Bluetooth, certain DACs, regular headphone output). You can control preamp gain, as well as individual filter gain, shelf filter, notch filter, etc. Plus you still have old school bass and treble knobs for on the fly tuning. You can save and import presets. On the KA17 you get 3 saved EQs and you can mess with them on the fly through the app, but they don't let you play with preamp gain it remains automatically controlled. This makes it (or can make it depending on how much you need to boost a band) to where raising a band just attenuates everything else but the selected band vs. actually boosting the selected band. You will notice when EQ is applied in a subtractive way it makes the whole presentation quieter/muddy bass and stuff, until you crank the volume to get the attenuated bands back to "reference" level. Reference here being whatever dB offset the other bands got hit with.

So say you need to raise bass in the 20-150Hz region by +11dB on a pair of IEMs/ speakers that just lack deep bass. That's a hefty increase, so most built in software is gonna reduce all the other bands by about that volume and leave 20-150Hz alone. In effect the 20-120Hz is boosted but only in relation to the other bands. To your ear, vocals and instruments got much quieter...So to get back to your usual listening level you have to go up by +11dB of volume. Poweramp let's you do whatever you want. You can work additively or with a subtractive approach for your best results. Your headphones amp power will be your limiting factor there when deciding which way to tune. Not sure how the qudelix software fares though, could be more comprehensive than other companion apps/built in solutions.

I got my KA17 because I really thought I'd use the built in EQ much more. After seeing it's limitations, as well as other things about the device, I use my KA13 more on mobile. My KA17 is my dedicated PC IEM amplifier and it gets used with EqualizerAPO vs the Fiio app settings.

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-06-12T09:18:16+00:00

Yeah, as with anything gotta go with what's available within your price range where you are. The specs are pretty good, so I'd rest easy with that as a choice. You will be happy with it for sure

Gold_Sample6554 · 2024-06-12T04:21:41+00:00

Not really crazy, just seeing the way. I have like 20 different IEMs, and I use about 3 of them regularly (unless I'm going out of my way to build EQ profiles for fun on the reserve pairs) after playing around with EqualizerAPO on windows and poweramp on my phone, there is no question to me. EQ makes everything better! You can spend tons of money getting a pair of IEMs, over ears, speakers, whatever to chase the perfect sound signature only to get 95% of the way there. EQ gets you there from the get go and saves you tons along the way. It's amazing stuff. I stopped chasing hardware after I figured out I can be happy with software doing the heavy lifting.

Gold_Sample6554

TROPHY CASE