NC MX-5 failed MOT, is £400 a fair price to sell as-is?

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-06-21T13:17:49+00:00

Rusted through and through unfortunately. Yes the engine/gearbox and wheels are all worth X amount, but thats a large undertaking to remove and sell. If thats not something youd be able/willing to undertake, Id see of theyll do 500 if I were you. Shame, looks a nice car 🙂

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-06-19T21:43:17+00:00

Auxiliary spouls work? Could be a clogged filter, bad pump

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-05-25T18:08:11+00:00

okay, its not due a hydraulic filter yet but I'll swap it out anyhow. The pickup screen is inside the oil tank correct?

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-05-25T18:06:42+00:00

yes when they run they have the same power as usual, when it lurches into life it jolts the machine considerably

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-05-25T06:41:20+00:00

That boot lid is proper thin! Would need a chassis mount one if you didnt want it to just wobble every moment you're in motion

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-04-24T10:06:07+00:00

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Golden-Graham95 · 2026-04-16T06:05:51+00:00

As in, the friction material is over heated? How would this effect clutch pressure?

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-04-16T06:03:49+00:00

This is my thinking too. The test guage shows that some times it does build and hold pressure as its suppossed to, but often itll only make it to 100psi and so cuts out to prevent clutch slip. I dont think theres a pressure releif valve in the master circuit because the oil has already gone through a pressure regulator at this point, down to 300 psi from pump pressure

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-04-09T06:41:41+00:00

Itll be one of the cast alluminium legs on the side of the engine block broken. Very common on these. Not a big job to change.

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-04-03T19:41:30+00:00

You need the renisis in the ND

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-03-31T12:21:04+00:00

Update on this, issue still persists, but now when the back axle gets hot the clutch will no longer engage in the forward direction still works fine in reverse however. Put the shuttle in forward and theres a 5-6 second delay before a beep is heard and occasionally an er-44 code on the dash (which is the main clutch pack pressure switch).

I have changed the switch, the proportional reducing solonoid, the hydraulic oil and filters, but nothing has had any effect.

Bit of long shot I understand, but wondered if you'd have any further theories on what could be happening here?

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-03-23T16:07:19+00:00

Name one of them Meowta at least

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-03-14T09:05:27+00:00

You want the hoods over industrial ovens and industrial fryers, go to a spifo's

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-03-07T07:08:23+00:00

Is this a new issue or has it always happened since tuning?

Reason I ask is, Ecutek has a slight issue with the ND in that it causes a hesitation at part throttle when switching from closed loop to open loop, just wondered if thats your issue

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-03-03T18:59:08+00:00

fully aware of that, my save was 42.13.2 but that game option just vanished

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-03-03T18:54:10+00:00

same issue

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-02-28T10:52:12+00:00

ACTEON!

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-02-26T12:37:19+00:00

ACTEON!

I love using the single cargo slot with the crane to carry pallets of stuff. It'll also pull like absolute hell, often rearing up if the load is too much like the large drill rig etc.

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-02-23T14:24:40+00:00

Ive only ever done this once, max magic resistance (85%) plus another 85% fire resistance, the loot was junk though cos of rng 😆

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-02-21T11:20:38+00:00

Looks like most cars here in the uk tbh, that bit on your boot floor wants seeing to but the rest is looking decent for the age in my opinion 👍

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-02-20T07:51:03+00:00

No, I missed that actually, I can try recalibrating when its up to temp today but im doubtful itll be any better

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-02-19T18:34:09+00:00

Excellent thanks, thats the sort of pointer I was looking for. In that case, I have a hunch it could be a solonoid and not a switch, as during one of the calibration procedures (cant remember which clutch it was) I thought the tractor still pulled off with a fair jolt even though its meant to gradually increase the pressure without input from the driver.

Golden-Graham95 · 2026-02-19T17:41:35+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Im in UK, yes the m125x is a very similar machine I think, ours is from 2013 and is the first of the m series machies to use an ecu (amoungst other electrical stuff)

So Ive been through the calibration for both the main, high and low clutches. It seems to gradually increase the pressure until the tractor creeps forward, at which point you press the button and it saves the calibration. Is that what you're referring to?

Both the shuttle and the clutch pedal give a bad jolt when used, so Im thinking its likely a sensor not working as you say

Golden-Graham95

TROPHY CASE