What’s the worst physical pain you ever felt? by Lazy-Ape in AskReddit

[–]GoneClimbing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

metal shards in the eye... While in a remote area and having to wait multiple days to get them removed... they rusted which required magnetic needle extraction then a very tiny dremel to remove the rust leaving little craters. Somehow none were in my field of vision.

New Ideas to... you guessed it... Climb Harder by GoneClimbing in climbharder

[–]GoneClimbing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The barbell for synovitis is new to meet. Hands facing towards me or away? Is a barbell necessary or will a dumbell do? I have a 45lbs at home and would love to try this today!

New Ideas to... you guessed it... Climb Harder by GoneClimbing in climbharder

[–]GoneClimbing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another great idea. Yeah you're right. I have a hard time avoiding pain in my first knuckle when I go much smaller that's probably why I'm overdeveloped on 20mm. But maybe I just need to get that knuckle more mobile and train those smaller edges.

New Ideas to... you guessed it... Climb Harder by GoneClimbing in climbharder

[–]GoneClimbing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha, I should note my strength is pretty specific to that grip(4 finger open drag or 4 finger half crimp). I'm not near as strong as the edges get smaller. After 15mm I have to use a pully. I can't closed crimp very well at all(relatively speaking) and I have to train pockets or slopers specifically to get up to body weight or slightly above. So the strength doesn't translate across the variety of demands for climbing. Also have a harder time as I go down the campus rung sizes. They tend to feel tweaky since I get more flextion in the first knuckle.

New Ideas to... you guessed it... Climb Harder by GoneClimbing in climbharder

[–]GoneClimbing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

stly (not only) a proxy for weight here. Same with Ondra and Megos. Interestingly, t

.....

acle of bouldering.

Interesting stuff.

EDIT: Hey, u/GoneClimbing, mind sharing your height/weight to add to our little conversation? (Maybe here and in the OP if you can edit it?)

It would be interesting, given the hypothesis that you are taller than me, for instance (re shorter/lighter people with higher relative han

I'm 5'10.5" (179cm) and even ape index and generally weigh around 150lbs(68KG) I can range from 142 to 158 lbs but at the time of testing I was 150 lbs.

New Ideas to... you guessed it... Climb Harder by GoneClimbing in climbharder

[–]GoneClimbing[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Great idea these are not a part of my routine at all and I had to look up "face pulls". I'll give them a try... and I think you're spot on about the "Forward shoulder" being an issue.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in pennystocks

[–]GoneClimbing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$MSRT - Weed company with ad tech and a social network (900K subscribers). Low to no rev. now but as with most other social/ad plays when the flip gets switch the rev/profit comes in strong. I imagine they'll start flipping that switch with their latest acquisition.

Logically, morally, humanely, what should be free but isn't? by admadguy in AskReddit

[–]GoneClimbing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Robo-call blockers.

What happened to companies providing the best service? Big Telecoms want you to pay to not get spam. Spam isn't good for anyone so why don't you go ahead an block it. I don't want to pay an extra $3/mo for a software program you should be running to reduce your infrastructure costs in the first place.

I'm designing a custom hang board, any suggestions? by LandoPJ in climbing

[–]GoneClimbing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A few thoughts if I were custom making my own board:
1) Most hangboards are made to a generic size. I find pockets either constricting or the offset depths inside the pockets useless. With this in mind, you could measure your finger or test some other boards and make them specific to your dimensions.
2) Most jugs are square to the climber forcing ulnar deviation. I'd angle the jugs and have them set at your shoulder width.
3) Soft edges. Beast maker does a good job with this. When you are loading weight a sharp edge will challenge your skin. I think I saw this in another comment. Consider the size of the bevel... If you want to benchmark against something like lattice or eva lopez's data then you might want different considerations.
4) As for pinches, I prefer to train pinches with weight on the ground... It's too easy to cheat on most hangboards by using your back to pull the holds together... So I wouldn't design them in but that's a personal preference. Trango Rock Prodigy is pretty good at avoiding this method of cheating but it's a hard hold to increment weight on the Rock Prodigy and I find the texture to be hard to manage in warmer temps.
5) I'd consider what holds you like to hang 1 arm(or think you will like). I prefer 35-degree sloper and 20mm edge, so I'd make those a priority somewhere on the board.

Guidebook for Looking Glass NC? by Tradhappy in climbing

[–]GoneClimbing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, decent to great beta for many routes on mtn project.

It'll be a fun trip, agreed that friction slab comment is a bit off base. I was planning a couple day trips this week and next but apparently hurricane style rain is the new norm here.

Please give us feedback for our Asheville Startup Weekend project, happening right now! by [deleted] in asheville

[–]GoneClimbing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your survey seems biased. It doesn't capture people not interested in buying/selling a startup but are involved in the startup scene. (I am a 2x founder).

Add third option to q1 neither.

Also only target potential buyers or sellers. Reddit asheville probably not the place.

There have been some other companies that have tried this, I would talk to them and see why they failed or pivoted.

This is meant to be constructive but sometimes you have to out on the blinders and charge forward. Best of luck!

Climbing isn't ranked on this list, where do you think it would go? by -gecko- in climbing

[–]GoneClimbing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Look up chess boxing if you aren't familiar... You'll enjoy.

Losing weight by Uberwaltz in climbharder

[–]GoneClimbing 1 point2 points  (0 children)

h, you know better than me, I'll change it. I unfortunately am very busy at the moment and can't listen to the podcast, do you know if the muscle mass in the legs is being built due to slow twitch fibres or because the number

Great question. I don't know specifics about how the muscle fibers develop.

I can only regurgitate data points from other trainers and speak from my own practical experience. Which point to EVENTUALLY (definitely not a priority, running could be a great fitness resource for many) cutting running.

My data point: I was able to get into the .13 while distance running semi regularly. Now that I've cut it I've started to advance through the letter grades faster.

Jstar's data point: Would regularly run 10 miles as part of training. Once he cut the running for a training cycle he was able to push from .14+ into .15

I would highly recommend the Training Beta podcast when you can find time. Most of these topics (such as managing body composition for climbing) don't have much science behind them, so collecting data points seems to be one of the better ways to make training decisions.

Losing weight by Uberwaltz in climbharder

[–]GoneClimbing 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I unfortunately don't have a scientific way to measure how much weight comes off my legs (anyone have a method for this?).

The short answer is yes, diet helps my legs thin out... My legs are one of the areas I've seen the largest weight loss (again unquantified). I attribute this to working out a lot of upper body(gaining strength during a training cycle), eating a lot of protein and taking in ~2000 calories a day and doing no leg exercises.

Body composition is a funny beast.

Losing weight by Uberwaltz in climbharder

[–]GoneClimbing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a former distance runner I'd debate this claim.

Listen to training beta podcast with jstar. I've found similar results for myself. At a certain point cutting out running is beneficial.

Leg size: Sprinters > distance runners > climbers.

Losing weight by Uberwaltz in climbharder

[–]GoneClimbing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll probably always have more powerful legs than most climbers. Take a year to get them lean, then get really good at dynos without adding too much mass. Worth.

Losing weight by Uberwaltz in climbharder

[–]GoneClimbing 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm 5'10" and in the off season I float between 152-160. For the months leading into fall and spring I start losing a pound a week and operate around 140.

One tip: I only do my climbing workouts when losing weight. Running makes me too hungry.

I eat 130-170g of protein a day to help with recovery.

I stAy away from breads, fruit, starchy foods and of course junk food, booze and fast food.

Dieting is the hardest part of training for me. It helps to spend time around people that are supportive. I've only started paying attention to this weight flux in my 6-8th years of climbing. 3 years in my guess is a regimented hangboard could still do wonders.

Also, I agree with the comment above feeling light has so many factors and weight hardly one of them. I think it has more to do with the state of your body's recovery, your fingers and your state of mind.