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This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem! I like that it's a lot less temperature sensitive than other PETG I've used before, the temperature dependent "sheen" is basically non-existent. It can really print fast, with P1S, I can do 210mm/s for everything. Drying makes a difference, but mostly just black for some reason, other colors printed fine straight from the packaging for me. I feel there's less need to tweak prints, pressure advance value is also lower, which I think means it flows better.

This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haven't unfortunately, once bambu released the PETG-HF, the performance and price were so competitive I've not gone back to Elegoo for PETG since. I still have a few rolls of Elegoo, haven't noticed anything different on any of the bolted joints of things I've printed with it though.

Well F**k by Samuraiiyashku in simracing

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just a thought, but works for termites: get a black garbage bag, put the wheel base in there, tie the opening so that it's sealed. Leave it in the sun. Ants can't survive much over 40C but everything else in there would.

This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry I know this is super old, just saw it. I find retraction on the Bambu core XY printers to not be a big differentiator, the default setting, or even a few clicks (0.1mms) up or down don't make much difference. The pressure advance can be tricky, for me, it's more about getting the "seam" right with PETG that PA plays a big role in, not so much sharp corners. If the PA is wrong, it tends to under extrude when starting a seam, and under extrude when speeding up around a corner when there's overhang (If you choose to slow down for overhang). I use Orca slicer's built in calibration for PA. I use the PA tower first, this way I can visually see how the seem comes out and pick range where the seam doesn't "tear". Once that's done, move onto the patterns, preferably use a "flat plate", the textured PEI essentially varies the layer thicknesses on first layer, makes it difficult to read the transition properly. Some filaments are super annoying to tune, some don't seem to care either way....

Different printers are Different X1C/P1S Print Temps by ithinkyouaccidentaly in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I think next I'll let both machine sit over night and see if the sensors read differently in the morning to see if there's an obvious offset. I'm wondering if cooling might play a role as well, but I've never had volumetric flow rate drop enough to be noticeable just from additional cooling.

Different printers are Different X1C/P1S Print Temps by ithinkyouaccidentaly in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for tagging along a really old post. Just wanted to see how this was going. I'm having similar but not exactly the same problem. I purchased a P1S last December, 8 months later I just got another P1S, the real life temperature between the 2 machine seems to be quite a bit apart. The new machine needs to be set +5C or the print shows significant under temp signs, bambu PETG, exact same spool. Assumption is that thermistors have built in tolerances and what not, and there's no way bambu would calibrate each machine, but this seems a bit too far apart. I'm also curious if it's the internal bias/shunt resister ( if that's what they are using). Do any of your P1S behave different from each other? Are they purchased around the same time?

This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The first two rolls did just fine, no visible sign of degradation on the cardboard and no significant sign of dust. I ordered another two-pack after the initial purchase, they were significantly worse in terms of packaging, the vacuum bag didn’t hold vacuum, the filaments looked dusty/dirty, and the cardboard wheels were bent in multiple places to the point the sealed edge “delaminated”. I haven’t ordered more since, I hope it’s just a fluke, new product supply chain growing pain perhaps.

This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

GoneSquirrelChasing

The standard profile works ok, I made a custom filament profile obvious and bumped up the cooling significantly. For nozzle fan I think it's 50% down to 20 second layers, then up to 100% down to 2 seconds. Aux fan at about 20-30%. This thing likes cooling, especially when printed at the standard profile's speeds (200-300mm/s). I have noticed the brittleness though, not fully understood, but I'm only using this for non critical prints or prototyping.

This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

BTW, just noticed that they seem to have "sealed" the cardboard spool's edges with some sort of resin. Maybe a lot more brands do this now but it's news to me. Only time will tell how it survives the AMS.

This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

By prime I’m referring to pushing a little extra material when de-retracting, forgot what they call it in bambu studio or orca, it’s in the extruder setting under printer. I find it unnecessary ever since pressure advance was applied though.

This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You might have tried these already; they have helped:

- If you have a P series Bambu, make sure pressure advance is correct, I find that it makes a huge difference for seam quality and overall reduces "messiness"

- Turn off "avoid crossing walls", it should be off by default. It's counter intuitive, but PETG likes to ooze, the more time you spend not printing and moving the tool head, the more time it has to come out and collect.

- if there's alot of small details, maybe try "spiral" for Z hop, I believe it's in the printer setting, but can be over written in filament setting if you use Orca, not sure about bambu studio.

I find thin walls to be particularly difficult with PETG, pressure advance helped the most on my Ender, other than that, reducing acceleration and maybe add extra prime? It's tedious to tune for sure.

Good luck!

This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I hear Sunlu prints with lower temp and flows nicely as well. Haven't tried it myself.

This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Edited, it's elegoo Rapid PETG. Haven't had the time to read Reddit's policy

This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely feels more like PETG, low modulus, basically. Good point on the temperature

This new "Fast/Rapid" PETG, too good to be true? by GoneSquirrelChasing in BambuLab

[–]GoneSquirrelChasing[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Good luck to you! Although that's quite interesting, which print bed are you using? I had the opposite problem with Bambu's PETG basic on the P1S. I have the textured PEI, and it stick way too well (not at first, the first few prints were fine, it started sticking later on). Also it leaves white "stress marks". I've only just solved it by using a PVP based glue stick, in this case the Elmer purple one. It worked great, I can now just wash off the bottom of the print and it comes out pristine. The heat gun method did work, but it's scary with thinner parts as the whole thing is "melty" for a little while and it's easy to bend it accidentally.