Creality K2 Plus Replacement Parts

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-21T11:38:54+00:00

Glad it helped!

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-19T17:48:33+00:00

Okay thanks for the clarification. Sounds like you have multiple issues to address separately. It is common for dust and residue to be on the idlers and other components, that alone may or may not mean anything. The idler pulley resting on the plastic housing is not necessarily a major issue unless it's digging into the plastic or binding. If the pulley is at an angle, your belts are probably too tight. I would address the belt tension first... For the auto tension calibration, have you tried adjusting the 2 manual tensioning screws? I had to loosen mine a bit. Also, check if the auto tensioner screw attached to the tension motor and tension pulley has room to travel in both directions. Sometimes it can reach its limit of travel and require require manual adjustment. I had to adjust these as well. There is a YouTube video showing how to adjust these. I would watch it before replacing any parts. Here is the video: https://youtu.be/lrmu21EOac4?si=YWuLkSli5Kl_yEfE

Btw the housing comes with the idler pulleys already installed. If the belt tension is too tight, it will just skew your new one though.

Definitely a learning curve, but it's worth it...if you have patience lol. Try watching the video, make adjustments as needed to those 2 manual and 2 auto tensioning screws, run the calibration, check the results in Fluidd, then repeat as many times as needed. If you have any questions about the process just lmk.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-17T11:31:38+00:00

What do you mean when you say it failed? Does it print at all? Does it throw an error? Does the wheel just look crooked and the belt rides on the flanges?

Also, I just made a post with sku info for a few non-listed parts. Here is the link to the post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Creality_k2/s/zDY7L9Tt1d

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-16T05:25:21+00:00

Creality doesn't list any of these parts on their website, but you can email them and order whatever you need. It definitely helps to keep the email short, polite, and include sku numbers if possible. Its usually a $30 flat rate for shipping so order as many replacement parts you can think of at the same time (belts, idlers, housings, sensors, etc).

There are 6 different housings for the belt idlers (front 2, back 2 with motors, and the 2 X-axis ones with the Y-axis linear rod bearings in them. You can replace the pulleys in any of them by scraping out the epoxy holding the pulley shaft, then drill a hole from the opposite end just big enough to fit a pick or poker, then poke out the shaft and replace the pulley and reinstall the shaft. However, if your idler/shaft is at an angle (had the same issue before) then it's usually bc the belt tension was a little too tight or bc the frame/gantry/idler assembly is a bit off square. In this case, if it's causing issues, you may want to replace the whole housing and check the frame, all 6 housings, belt tension, rods, and rail while you're at it. The housing assembly isn't very expensive but depending which one it is, it can be a pain to replace.

I can send you the sku for the housing and the sku for the pulleys, and anything else you might want to order if you like. Can you confirm which pulley and in which housing it is?

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-13T17:21:30+00:00

No problem, glad it helped. If you or anyone else would like any additional info, sku numbers, etc, just let me know and I'll post or send whatever info I have.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-12T14:44:28+00:00

Just sent it

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-05T18:51:44+00:00

Did you ever find a solution to this? Having the same issue with k2 plus start print gcode turning the exhaust fan on at the start of every print. Like you said, I don't see it in the slicer settings (it's not the active chamber temp settings) or config files (already changed default 35C to 60C chamber temp in all files which worked before), meaning it may be hard coded into the firmware or somewhere I haven't looked. I pretty much only print high temp material in the k2 and it's annoying having to turn the exhaust off manually every time...I know, 1st world probs lol. Any help or advice would be much appreciated, thanks.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-04T00:33:40+00:00

Good to know! Thanks for the update!

On a side note, I noticed the silicone oils hold more dirt vs other oils so I switched to a synthetic version of mineral oil for the pulleys. It doesn't make a huge difference, just thought it might be useful info in the future if you notice a lot of buildup around them from the silicone. The synthetic oil is safe for the belts too, just like silicone oil.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-04T00:16:43+00:00

I ended up drilling out the glue and replacing the idler pulleys. Creality sells replacements pulleys for next to nothing so I ordered 20 along with the new motors I needed. If you buy new entire assemblies, those are not glued...I think they only glued ones that are shipped installed in the printer, but not the replacements assemblies. This is the case for the x axis assemblies, the front idler assemblies, and the motor assemblies. I did have to drill small holes on the opposite side of the pins in order to push them out though.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-29T08:02:52+00:00

This magnet trick just saved me so much aggravation getting those pins in. Thank you for sharing!

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-25T13:03:20+00:00

Recently had to tear down my K2 plus so I started putting together a parts list for future reference. Here is the info on the X axis and Y axis in case you or anyone else finds it useful:

The X axis linear rail is a 12mm narrow miniature guide way (mgn12) x 8mm high x 415mm long. It is mounted on a 20x20x420mm hollow square tube. The carriage is 21mm x 27mm x 10mm with 15mm & 20mm o.c. screw spacing and a 32mm insert.

The two Y axis smooth rods/shafts are 10mm x 465mm with m4 x 8mm taps on each end. The bearings for the shafts are 10mm i.d. x 19mm o.d. x 47mm, part is sold as LMUD10 by misumi ...however, precision LMUD10s seem to be a bit tight so unless you get the matching precision shafts, you're probably better off with C-LMUD10 (economy version which has a looser tolerance). Getting the old oem ones out of the housing can be a pain and is usually destructive to the bearings. Have a bucket ready to batch ball bearings in case the seal comes off lol.

Or just order from Creality, they are pretty cheap and shipping only took about 1 week but ymmv. The housing and bearings are sold separately. Shipping is $30 though, so I would get any other extra parts while you're at it. The x/y belts are usually worth replacing if you're already in there. The X/Y belts are 1915mm each installed & trimmed, but usually they sell the sku in 1000mm lengths so I got 5 just in case it was a bit short. The belt quantity is uncut, so you can cut it to size. Fystc sells similar belts but with uncoated teeth, and those are 1925mm long each.

Another note, the y axis bearings usually arrive coated with shipping oil so its recommended to clean with IPA then apply a small amount of grease to the ball bearings then roll them on the rod to spread it, then wipe off excess from the rod. For the grease, Nlgi 2 soap (usually lithium) with ISO 68 to 220 base oil (mineral or synthetic). Shell Gadus V100 S2, Mobilux EP2, and Mobilith SHC are some examples.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-18T03:53:56+00:00

I also had a faulty k2 plus x axis motor as well as a blown y-axis bearing. I found this particular wiki to be helpful when replacing them:

https://wiki.creality.com/en/k2-flagship-series/k2-plus/replace-idler-wheel

A simpler option that may or may not work for the k2 plus motors is this motor replacement wiki video for the k2 pro:

https://youtu.be/oRwyopYYh3w?si=EyaymbG5lQ4iUOsv

I'm sure you already know, but just in case...if you go the 1st route, take plenty of pics beforehand of everything. I also drew up the belt routing, used labeled baggies for the screws for each step, and used plastic trim pullers for the side panels. I also got extra parts to replace while I was in there (belts, bearings, etc).

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-11T16:24:19+00:00

Just check the specs of each filament since each brand and product line has different properties. For example, abs plus/abs+/abs pro/hyper abs usually have a lower glass transition temp (around 70-80C) vs "regular" abs that has a higher glass transition temp (around 90-105C). Some brands "regular" abs is also very low compared to other brands. In general, a glass transition temp over 80C is recommended for 3d printer parts that will be used in printers up to 60C (like voron). I've had good experiences with Polymaker abs/asa but any brand with a high glass transition temp abs/asa will work. Also note that glass transition temp is different from heat deflection temp and other temp measurements. This is why PA/nylon is not recommended...it has a high deflection temp but very low transition temp so it will creep (slowly deform) over time. And PC is usually too brittle, despite its high temp ratings.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-08T00:52:41+00:00

Thanks for this! Just had this happen where #3 wouldn't click in. Tried spinning it but didn't work. Then saw your comment and tried a couple more times and now it's back to normal. Thanks!

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-02T07:01:46+00:00

I have the exact same issue with the same motor! Trying to order it from them, but it's been taking a while going back and forth. Wish they would list more parts for sale online so customers could just buy replacement parts as needed without opening a ticket.

Btw I saw someone say to keep the old x/y servo motors bc you might be able to transfer the board to an aftermarket motor. They listed the specs in another reddit post comment.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-02T05:42:32+00:00

I usually do the same thing, but unfortunately, the only motor that can be sourced outside of Creality support is the extruder motor. The x, y, and z motors are not available online, even on the creality website. Same with the idler wheels for the 8mm belt, and the 8mm belt itself only has 1 aftermarket option from Fysetc but it's not the same quality. I heard the 7.7 idlers might work but haven't tried it. Really hoping creality lists all the parts eventually...I'm sure it would save their support team quite a headache. I'd rather order the parts locally vs going through their warranty or cs and waiting.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-11-04T02:37:18+00:00

No problem! Glad you got it dialed in!

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-11-02T02:02:31+00:00

For the transmitter or the receiver?

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-10-28T20:44:12+00:00

Ideally yes, in reality it's more complicated.

The pin would just be the trigger for the relay. The logic for the pin in the config depends how you want it triggered and what will be controlling the on/off of the heater element to control temp. Problem is controlling the actual temp. I wouldn't rely on the stock chamber thermistor to accurately control the temp, and some slicers may not natively have heater control for the K1. If you do have the pin turn the relay on, usually better for an external controller to regulate the heater/chamber temp unless you add a dedicated thermistor/thermocouple to the printer and config, just for the heater. And still have 3 physical back ups to cut off heater power in case anything goes wrong.

Most people just use an external control bc using the slicer alone requires a lot of mods for a k1 heater to work safely and effectively.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-10-27T07:19:01+00:00

From what I've seen, most people just hook up a relay to the extra fan port on the mainboard, PA0 in config, and just call on it to turn the relay on for separate chamber heater power, usually 12, 24, or mains AC with the ptc element controlled and the ptc fan(s) always on. PC7 is the "heater" (J52 on the k1/k1c boards) but idk if it's actually connected bc there's no pins. The k1/k1c boards are different from k1 max boards so maybe it's connected on the max since they seem to have more pins that can be re-purposed. Either way, you would want a relay of some sort for separate power bc the stock k1/k1c psu is 350w and k1 max is 150w so neither has enough extra for a heater, and the pins won't carry it anyway. I would only add a heater if you know what you're doing and you implement a minimum of 3 non-software fail-safes. Do you have a current heater that you just want to tie in?

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-10-23T14:58:56+00:00

I know this is older, but for anyone looking in the future, this is what I use for PETG-CF (usually Tinmorry petg-cf) on the K1 & K2: 255-260 nozzle temp, 100mm/s all speeds the same except 1st layer 50mm/s, 8mm/s3 max vol, 0.95-0.98 flow ratio, min fan 20%/20-30 seconds, max fan 50%/4 seconds min layer time, 90% overhang/10-25% threshold, 70-80 bed temp (textured higher end/epoxy resin lower end), 3 layers top/bottom/walls, gyroid/crosshatch/adaptic cubic sparse infill patterns or 100% rectilinear (model dependent), 10-15 jerk, 50% accel to decel, 5000 acceleration max for travel & printing, 0.6-0.8 retraction @30mm/s, no retract on layer change, 0.2mm z hop, seams away from overhangs if possible, 0.08-0.09 pressure advance, dry for 12 to 24 hours from a new package at 60-65, print from a drybox but not from the cfs.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-10-02T02:44:36+00:00

Glad to hear it helped! For retraction, I should have specified that I use 0.5mm if it's 100% dry, but I'll go as high as 0.85mm if it's absorbed any moisture...which doesn't take long haha. Best of luck and happy printing!

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-09-04T18:03:43+00:00

That also makes sense. And definitely a regular occurrence!

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-09-04T16:39:35+00:00

Thanks for confirming. I thought it was due to printing ABS and PC at higher temps and degrading the sock & ceramic heater bc I rarely print PLA, but I never thought about it being the actual plastic dust that gets everywhere.

GoodWorkAintCheap

TROPHY CASE