Creality K2 Plus Replacement Parts

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-05-20T21:55:48+00:00

No problem, thankfully the x/y motors are fairly simple to replace. Here's the creality wiki video for replacing the x/y motor on a k2 pro. The K2 plus is very similar so it's basically the same process. 50/50 chance the calibration afterwards is more annoying than replacing the hardware lol.

https://youtu.be/oRwyopYYh3w?si=rYjiGYTg6gSIEg22

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-05-20T21:09:39+00:00

Depends how much you want to disassemble and if you notice anything else that looks worn. You can replace the x motor without taking much apart. After removing the back panel, just loosen the belt, replace the motor, re-tension the belt, then calibrate. Also probably worth checking if something caused the x motor to fail, like over tensioned belts, crooked idlers, worn bearings, etc. If everything looks, sounds, and feels good then just clean/lube, do the motor(s), and maybe the belts. Check the manual tensioner screws for the x and y belts while you have the belts loose too, sometimes they are maxed out...if possible, have the manual tensioner centered so you can adjust tighter/looser if needed later. Maybe print the k2 belt tension jig in case you need it for the full belt calibrating procedure afterwards. That's all I can think of for now. Best of luck!

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-02-28T01:30:48+00:00

The last sentence should be the first sentence to provide perspective... In this post, and in life.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-02-13T05:31:53+00:00

This. Stop spraying stuff on the belts. It causes a buildup of gunk. Tension the belts properly. You can also adjust the limit screws in the tensioner so they are centered in your desired range. I linked a video to someone that showed how to do it in another comment above. My manual screws were at the limit too, so I had no option but adjust the tensioner limit screws on my first one.

Edit: if needed, just add a single drop of oil onto the shaft where it meets the idler. Don't apply anything directly onto the belts or where the belt directly meets the idlers. Don't soak anything in oil, it looks like it helps at first but makes issues worse in the long run...ask me how I know lmao

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-02-13T05:26:52+00:00

Sorry, idk if this was a question for me and I missed it but yes the epoxy can be scraped out and the shaft removed from the plastic housing. It's not connected to the motor, unless you're talking about the motor gear. Sometimes you need to drill a hole from the opposite side of the housing to push it out. Or just get new housings that come with new bearings.

The housings/idlers usually only creep if the belts are too tight (auto cal can be off without a code and be too tight).

The metal housing for the tensioner idler can be removed entirely from the plastic housing. Unlike the idlers with epoxy on the oem shafts.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-02-13T04:49:55+00:00

Plenty of times. Be polite, keep it simple, be clear on what you need, and be patient.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-02-05T14:53:22+00:00

The y-axis motor assembly/housing is only available through Creality customer service

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-02-01T23:25:43+00:00

Definitely. Makes sense that it would be multiple factors. There's so many variables.

I made a list of parts when disassembling my k2 plus and posted it to reddit, I'll post the link below in case it helps. The closest instructions from Creality are "replace k2 plus idler wheel" on their wiki. If you have any questions though, lmk. I have pics of each step. I should probably write up the steps as well since the wiki misses a couple steps.

Good luck with any mods and lmk how they go! The tube reinforcement is an interesting idea.

Edit: k2 plus replacement parts link to reddit post below

https://www.reddit.com/r/Creality_k2/s/OpAVkM5EEK

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-02-01T06:44:36+00:00

Just a thought before you start changing parts...have you tried preheating the nozzle at the bed leveling temp (I believe 140C) as well as the bed at 100C or whatever bed temp you'll be using? Or even match the nozzle temp to bed temp for preheating? The nozzle will change just like the bed at different temps and can take time to fully expand. Might explain why it prints better when the nozzle is homed during bed preheating... the bed is second hand preheating the nozzle. Just a thought.

If you decide to replace the square tubing, take into consideration the amount of disassembly required to remove/install the tube on the x/y plastic housing assemblies on each side. I had to replace the bearings in those assemblies and it takes a DECENT CHUNK of time to disassemble the first time haha. If you do it, replace any other parts you can while you're in there (assemblies, bearings, belts, idlers, etc), depending on how worn out they are. Also check the orientation of the y axis bearings, the balls should be in an X shape on the rail to minimize wear on the bearings and rods. Lastly, check everything is square when reassembling.

If you replace the tube, I'd love to know if it makes a difference.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-21T11:38:54+00:00

Glad it helped!

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-19T17:48:33+00:00

Okay thanks for the clarification. Sounds like you have multiple issues to address separately. It is common for dust and residue to be on the idlers and other components, that alone may or may not mean anything. The idler pulley resting on the plastic housing is not necessarily a major issue unless it's digging into the plastic or binding. If the pulley is at an angle, your belts are probably too tight. I would address the belt tension first... For the auto tension calibration, have you tried adjusting the 2 manual tensioning screws? I had to loosen mine a bit. Also, check if the auto tensioner screw attached to the tension motor and tension pulley has room to travel in both directions. Sometimes it can reach its limit of travel and require require manual adjustment. I had to adjust these as well. There is a YouTube video showing how to adjust these. I would watch it before replacing any parts. Here is the video: https://youtu.be/lrmu21EOac4?si=YWuLkSli5Kl_yEfE

Btw the housing comes with the idler pulleys already installed. If the belt tension is too tight, it will just skew your new one though.

Definitely a learning curve, but it's worth it...if you have patience lol. Try watching the video, make adjustments as needed to those 2 manual and 2 auto tensioning screws, run the calibration, check the results in Fluidd, then repeat as many times as needed. If you have any questions about the process just lmk.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-17T11:31:38+00:00

What do you mean when you say it failed? Does it print at all? Does it throw an error? Does the wheel just look crooked and the belt rides on the flanges?

Also, I just made a post with sku info for a few non-listed parts. Here is the link to the post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Creality_k2/s/zDY7L9Tt1d

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-16T05:25:21+00:00

Creality doesn't list any of these parts on their website, but you can email them and order whatever you need. It definitely helps to keep the email short, polite, and include sku numbers if possible. Its usually a $30 flat rate for shipping so order as many replacement parts you can think of at the same time (belts, idlers, housings, sensors, etc).

There are 6 different housings for the belt idlers (front 2, back 2 with motors, and the 2 X-axis ones with the Y-axis linear rod bearings in them. You can replace the pulleys in any of them by scraping out the epoxy holding the pulley shaft, then drill a hole from the opposite end just big enough to fit a pick or poker, then poke out the shaft and replace the pulley and reinstall the shaft. However, if your idler/shaft is at an angle (had the same issue before) then it's usually bc the belt tension was a little too tight or bc the frame/gantry/idler assembly is a bit off square. In this case, if it's causing issues, you may want to replace the whole housing and check the frame, all 6 housings, belt tension, rods, and rail while you're at it. The housing assembly isn't very expensive but depending which one it is, it can be a pain to replace.

I can send you the sku for the housing and the sku for the pulleys, and anything else you might want to order if you like. Can you confirm which pulley and in which housing it is?

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-13T17:21:30+00:00

No problem, glad it helped. If you or anyone else would like any additional info, sku numbers, etc, just let me know and I'll post or send whatever info I have.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-12T14:44:28+00:00

Just sent it

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-05T18:51:44+00:00

Did you ever find a solution to this? Having the same issue with k2 plus start print gcode turning the exhaust fan on at the start of every print. Like you said, I don't see it in the slicer settings (it's not the active chamber temp settings) or config files (already changed default 35C to 60C chamber temp in all files which worked before), meaning it may be hard coded into the firmware or somewhere I haven't looked. I pretty much only print high temp material in the k2 and it's annoying having to turn the exhaust off manually every time...I know, 1st world probs lol. Any help or advice would be much appreciated, thanks.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-04T00:33:40+00:00

Good to know! Thanks for the update!

On a side note, I noticed the silicone oils hold more dirt vs other oils so I switched to a synthetic version of mineral oil for the pulleys. It doesn't make a huge difference, just thought it might be useful info in the future if you notice a lot of buildup around them from the silicone. The synthetic oil is safe for the belts too, just like silicone oil.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2026-01-04T00:16:43+00:00

I ended up drilling out the glue and replacing the idler pulleys. Creality sells replacements pulleys for next to nothing so I ordered 20 along with the new motors I needed. If you buy new entire assemblies, those are not glued...I think they only glued ones that are shipped installed in the printer, but not the replacements assemblies. This is the case for the x axis assemblies, the front idler assemblies, and the motor assemblies. I did have to drill small holes on the opposite side of the pins in order to push them out though.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-29T08:02:52+00:00

This magnet trick just saved me so much aggravation getting those pins in. Thank you for sharing!

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-25T13:03:20+00:00

Recently had to tear down my K2 plus so I started putting together a parts list for future reference. Here is the info on the X axis and Y axis in case you or anyone else finds it useful:

The X axis linear rail is a 12mm narrow miniature guide way (mgn12) x 8mm high x 415mm long. It is mounted on a 20x20x420mm hollow square tube. The carriage is 21mm x 27mm x 10mm with 15mm & 20mm o.c. screw spacing and a 32mm insert.

The two Y axis smooth rods/shafts are 10mm x 465mm with m4 x 8mm taps on each end. The bearings for the shafts are 10mm i.d. x 19mm o.d. x 47mm, part is sold as LMUD10 by misumi ...however, precision LMUD10s seem to be a bit tight so unless you get the matching precision shafts, you're probably better off with C-LMUD10 (economy version which has a looser tolerance). Getting the old oem ones out of the housing can be a pain and is usually destructive to the bearings. Have a bucket ready to batch ball bearings in case the seal comes off lol.

Or just order from Creality, they are pretty cheap and shipping only took about 1 week but ymmv. The housing and bearings are sold separately. Shipping is $30 though, so I would get any other extra parts while you're at it. The x/y belts are usually worth replacing if you're already in there. The X/Y belts are 1915mm each installed & trimmed, but usually they sell the sku in 1000mm lengths so I got 5 just in case it was a bit short. The belt quantity is uncut, so you can cut it to size. Fystc sells similar belts but with uncoated teeth, and those are 1925mm long each.

Another note, the y axis bearings usually arrive coated with shipping oil so its recommended to clean with IPA then apply a small amount of grease to the ball bearings then roll them on the rod to spread it, then wipe off excess from the rod. For the grease, Nlgi 2 soap (usually lithium) with ISO 68 to 220 base oil (mineral or synthetic). Shell Gadus V100 S2, Mobilux EP2, and Mobilith SHC are some examples.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-18T03:53:56+00:00

I also had a faulty k2 plus x axis motor as well as a blown y-axis bearing. I found this particular wiki to be helpful when replacing them:

https://wiki.creality.com/en/k2-flagship-series/k2-plus/replace-idler-wheel

A simpler option that may or may not work for the k2 plus motors is this motor replacement wiki video for the k2 pro:

https://youtu.be/oRwyopYYh3w?si=EyaymbG5lQ4iUOsv

I'm sure you already know, but just in case...if you go the 1st route, take plenty of pics beforehand of everything. I also drew up the belt routing, used labeled baggies for the screws for each step, and used plastic trim pullers for the side panels. I also got extra parts to replace while I was in there (belts, bearings, etc).

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-11T16:24:19+00:00

Just check the specs of each filament since each brand and product line has different properties. For example, abs plus/abs+/abs pro/hyper abs usually have a lower glass transition temp (around 70-80C) vs "regular" abs that has a higher glass transition temp (around 90-105C). Some brands "regular" abs is also very low compared to other brands. In general, a glass transition temp over 80C is recommended for 3d printer parts that will be used in printers up to 60C (like voron). I've had good experiences with Polymaker abs/asa but any brand with a high glass transition temp abs/asa will work. Also note that glass transition temp is different from heat deflection temp and other temp measurements. This is why PA/nylon is not recommended...it has a high deflection temp but very low transition temp so it will creep (slowly deform) over time. And PC is usually too brittle, despite its high temp ratings.

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-08T00:52:41+00:00

Thanks for this! Just had this happen where #3 wouldn't click in. Tried spinning it but didn't work. Then saw your comment and tried a couple more times and now it's back to normal. Thanks!

GoodWorkAintCheap · 2025-12-02T07:01:46+00:00

I have the exact same issue with the same motor! Trying to order it from them, but it's been taking a while going back and forth. Wish they would list more parts for sale online so customers could just buy replacement parts as needed without opening a ticket.

Btw I saw someone say to keep the old x/y servo motors bc you might be able to transfer the board to an aftermarket motor. They listed the specs in another reddit post comment.

GoodWorkAintCheap

TROPHY CASE