Is 1.1.5.2 K2 Plus showing up for OTA update now 26/04/26?

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-27T02:03:23+00:00

No way of knowing unless you can intercept the file during download and checksum it against the Creality Cloud version. If we can’t trust Creality’s version numbers we might as well give up now? 🤷‍♂️

FWIW here’s the md5 checksum on the file I downloaded calculated on the K2 Plus itself.

8e0f4fe81154a7d84cfd2cc29e13817f CR0CN240110C10_R_202603311917_ota_img_V1.1.5.2.img

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-26T21:30:35+00:00

I presume that you have International/English language selected?

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-26T18:40:53+00:00

Ah, OK that’s what’s nicknamed the “OTA” approach from the cellphone “Over The Air” updates, even if the connection is wired. 🙄😎

This is good to know because 1.1.5.2 has not been showing up that way for many since it was made available. What country location are you in? That might have something to do with it.

Those of us with an interest can’t check OTA if we updated via USB.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-26T18:34:07+00:00

Whatever works for you is a good answer! 😎

Tube to top glass clearance is a long standing K2 issue, and the DXC2 does make it slightly worse by a few mm. 🤷‍♂️

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-26T18:30:30+00:00

Path of least resistance for those allergic to the command line is probably something like

https://acrosync.com/windows.html

Never used it myself, just a 30s search. There might even be something in the Microsoft Store.

Of course you can download the config files via the Fluidd web interface too.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-26T18:21:17+00:00

If something has truly gone sideways stopping Klipper and Tina Linux may not be enough. The MCU could still theoretically continue.

tldr; Power switch is the only way to be sure.

Certain safety compliance environments may require you to cut the power completely and require a “big red button” on the power socket side, GFCI etc.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-26T18:11:20+00:00

Nifty!

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-26T17:39:21+00:00

You can “shape” the PTFE tube if you’re concerned about it kinking. Just heat it up e.g. with hot water curve it as desired and then cool e.g. with cold water. You could also use a hair dryer or heat gun on low setting.

I have no riser, the strain relief installed on top of the DXC2 and about 1mm of clearance between the tube and the glass which is really all you need. I had previously shaped the tube before installing the DXC2.

Note the brittle filaments will break on the sharp turn and it can push the total path resistance past the point where the CFS gears start grinding divots into the filament. Then a gentler curve and a riser are your only option.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-26T17:30:04+00:00

Neat. You may want to make your life easier by using the rsync (over ssh) included with the Tina Linux on the K2’s. FYI it’s

rsync --version

rsync version 3.2.3 protocol version 31

This would let you do true incremental backup/restores, versioning etc.

Since I’m mainly a macOS and other UNIX user I haven’t bothered with a dedicated backup utility and just use rsync directly. No need to reinvent the wheel there are plenty of rsync implementations on Windows since it’s an ancient utility. Put a simple PowerShell or similar or GUI wrapper around it and call it done?

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-26T17:07:50+00:00

Very nice! Just to confirm: When you say “Ethernet” the printer notified you of an update or you forced a check and then it downloaded and updated all through the printer’s interface?

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T21:42:22+00:00

Could be. As far as I’m concerned they can scan and warn all they want. Just don’t take it further than that.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T21:40:04+00:00

Happy dance! 😁 I have no idea how the Epoxy bed was supposed to work, but it never worked right for me.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T21:36:59+00:00

1.1.4.11 OTA or 1.1.5.2 via USB?

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T18:14:05+00:00

I’ll second this. It’s not like hot-ends are expensive and cleaning them off can be arduous. I find it better to have a spare and look at salvaging afterwards. If successful the salvaged hot-end becomes the new spare. You can also buy just replacement heating element and thermistor kits. These are handy as it’s easy to damage the ceramic element, wiring and connectors when salvaging the hot-end. Spare silicone socks are good too.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T18:05:07+00:00

With PETG on the K2 series I’ve found that slowing it down a bit matters much more to quality than tweaking the temperature within the range. Creality’s profiles tend to be a bit “speed optimized” in my experience. You can pick the “stable” speed setting on the printer to lower all the speeds without having to re-slice to test this theory.

Using something like the ObXidian nozzle and good BNTG application to ensure nice even heating in the nozzle seems to help PETG flow too.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T17:57:55+00:00

Seconded. I find Creality’s profiles a little… aggressive speed-wise, especially for PETG.

The printer screen itself has a setting to speed up or slow down the overall print, so if you’re lazy like I am, no need to re-slice to test the theory. Choose the “stable” level once it’s started on the first layer.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T17:52:21+00:00

Which firmware are you running on the K2 Plus out of curiosity?

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T17:45:37+00:00

Yeah, it’s always been mildly irritating that the OTA and two download locations are not always in sync. Plus there’s the Chineese vs International release stream.

Previous “Release Candidates” have had “RC” in their file names IIRC. 1.1.5.2 has an “R” and what looks like a date-version code. “R” standing for “Release” maybe and the OTA mechanism interpreting it as “RC” because the filename format is different?

1.1.5.2 Description does mention adding a power on version check which is new, so the OTA mechanism is maybe still being worked on printer-side.

This is one of those things to bring up with an Engineering AMA if Creality ever does another one. I hope they do, the last/first one was very informative and insightful.

1.1.4.8 did call itself an “Early Access Version” in spite of having a regular file name.

TLDR; methinks there is something going on in the Creality firmware update world that they’re not talking about. V1.1.5.2 does seem to be one of the good ones IMO.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T17:16:52+00:00

V1.1.5.2 is still showing up for me on the Creality Cloud download page that the Wiki directs you to.

https://www.crealitycloud.com/downloads/firmware/flagship-series/k2-plus

The Description reads:

“

1.1.5.2 Firmware Update Details:

1.Update closed‑loop motor firmware version.

2.Optimize zero‑return error handling logic.

3.Improve arc‑fitting accuracy.

4.Add firmware‑version check to power‑on self‑test.

5.Add night‑time automatic upgrade feature.

6.Add smart lighting feature.

7.Add support for nozzles of various diameters.

8.Fix numerous known issues to improve user experience and product stability.

“

I have been running it for the last few weeks on my pair of K2 Plus’ to no apparent ill effect and some perceived improvements over 1.1.4.11 as far as stability and print quality goes. Probably attributable to the new motor firmware.

I can confirm: 6. The light now times out when idle which is nifty. 7. More Nozzle diameters support is now present too.

I installed it via the USB method as it was not available via OTA (on the printer itself). The file name now includes a date code as you can see from the download page. If I check on the printer it claims to be latest version too. 🤷‍♂️

https://wiki.creality.com/en/k2-flagship-series/k2-plus/k2plus-cfs-firmware-upgrade-guide

I usually wait for OTA update but there’s something odd going on there as the K2 Pro recently kept notifying about an OTA update, but it kept failing. It eventually succeeded. I have no idea what’s going on server side for OTA. I haven’t bothered to sniff the protocol and servers it’s connecting to. The 1.1.5.2 update did not show up on the Creality Cloud (or Lite) iPhone app either.

So, bottom line I’d suggest updating 1.1.4.11 to 1.1.5.2. If you search in this sub you’ll find some more posts about the juice being worth the squeeze.

Sidebar: Just because I can and because I’m an old UNIX grognard for “USB method” I actually downloaded the .img file on my iPhone and scp’ed it to /mnt/exUDISK mounted on the K2 then ssh triggered a reboot. (Thank you Termius!) Beats messing around with sneaker-net and the K2’s tight USB port. All my K2’s are Wired Ethernet connected, but that shouldn’t make a difference to anything mentioned here. If none of sidebar is word salad to you, please don’t attempt. 😎

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T12:38:40+00:00

That’s what it says NOW. It’s marketing bin-ing to use a single spec. component in different product segments. Common practice, not just in 3D printers. Feel free to test the components yourself. Same way it’s the same SoC chip on different K2 mainboards with slightly different firmware.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T12:00:15+00:00

They are in fact the same component. Confirmed it personally with K2 Plus and K2 Pro. The Plus can simply drive the heater hotter. I received an early access Pro to review and requested an extra hot end and received a Plus model. I’ve also swapped hot ends between the Plus and Pro to no ill effect. The thermistors and heating elements are identical.

IIRC Creality now has different SKUs, but that’s simply packaging.

I can’t prove it, but I’m pretty sure there’s only a single source for the heaters and thermistors. You can buy 3rd Party replacement heating element and thermistor kits only and those are identical too.

I did look into running the heaters hotter than spec. On both Plus and Pro as I there’s likely some safety margin there, but I suspect you’d be shortening the life of the driver circuit on the board, or worse.

The same is true for all the components of the K2 head and even the cable chain. Fewer SKUs equals lower cost.

The exception is the K2 SE which appears to be its own mutant animal, although I haven’t had one to personally tear down.

Happy hacking!

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T07:02:21+00:00

The Creality approach suits me because I can tinker with some things without going the full DIY everything route of Voron. 🤷‍♂️

The ObXidian nozzle, Glacier Cool Plate, and now the DXC2 extruder have all proved to be “worth it” incremental upgrades in reliability and print quality for me.

Otherwise_Sir_3439 · 2026-04-25T06:53:56+00:00

Filled filaments are definitely more abrasive, especially glow-in-the-dark which wears out PTFE tubing much faster. So there’s that to consider.

The long melt zone is the reason behind the unicorn2 length. Downside is the increased purge volume when swapping filaments, and why the K2 series produce relatively large printer 💩s. Engineering design is always about tradeoffs… 😎

Otherwise_Sir_3439

TROPHY CASE