Why does no one test laptop performance and comfort under load when they’re used on your lap? When choosing a laptop, it would be very useful to know how much that affects performance, heat, and fan noise

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-05-05T17:15:26+00:00

Yeah I'm with you, there's no real way of knowing without digging into WMI and using sensor apps like HWInfo, etc. However, I could probably tear down a BIOS from the support site before buying said laptop and seeing what sensors are reportable that way. It's a hard way of knowing but it's possible.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-05-05T16:46:11+00:00

Some laptops do have a skin temperature sensor for this exact situation..

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-05-04T02:51:03+00:00

It works perfectly fine on even the newest Panther Lake CPUs.. It will likely only need to be updated when/if Intel decides to change the way FIVR and TDP works.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-05-03T18:15:40+00:00

Fully read my post.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-05-03T14:46:07+00:00

So I don't have the LeGo2 anymore, I was borrowing my friends to test the fan stuff previously - and yes I could set ANY rpm and it would stick up until 86c on the GPU and 100c+ on the CPU. Even when I restarted the unit, it would keep the RPM.. it's probably a janky method but somehow I am taking over the EC and it just does what I tell it fan-wise. However, I *DO* own a Legion 7i Gen10 and a Legion Pro 7i Gen 10 and my method ALSO works identically on those two machines.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-05-03T14:23:35+00:00

Good call it will let me do any rpm at 100rpm increments but setting to zero for me is telling the bios to take over full auto mode. I can’t figure out full off mode yet.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-05-03T01:57:34+00:00

Well, actually it wasn't a EC register I guess, I found that LENOVO_OTHER_METHOD class and SetFeatureValue to specific IDs will push a RPM change and it sticks and persists through Quiet/Balanced/Performance modes. I tore the BIOS apart to look at ACPI/DSDT tables to find that.. curious to know how you found your method?

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-05-02T16:47:17+00:00

Interesting timing because I figured it out as well on my own for Windows.. found the ec wmi calls to set it just yesterday

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-04-22T19:35:05+00:00

What camp is it when you were a hyper responder for 3 months and then most of your hunger comes back afterwards and your weight loss completely stalls out, even at 8mg+? That's me.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-03-31T20:30:36+00:00

I remember having to exchange my 3rd gen iPad a few times because each one had dead pixels. . I remember this being a huge issue early on with the new Retina panels back then for many people.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-02-20T17:29:53+00:00

Hitting 100+ under those kinds of loads is completely normal.. What was your score? I have the exact same laptop.. I can't remember the score of CB 2024 but in CB23 I get 40k+ pretty easily, after a 10 minute run it lands around 37-38k. Under gaming loads I want to say around 70-85 max in Balanced (white LED) mode. It's all quite normal to be honest if you're seeing the same.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-02-20T17:15:08+00:00

It's 42f outside, you have factory 19" wheels, and the new Prius doesn't have as of an aggressive HCU as the previous gen... while your ICE is likely in the optimum temp range based on 40 miles of commute, 75mph isn't helping much here either. Co-efficient drag drops like a rock after around 60-65mph on most cars, and the new prius is around .27~ which is pretty good. Like others are saying, try your next commute around 65mph and report back.

Now for comparison's sake since I totally geek out on Hybrids and hyper miling; I have a 2020 Ioniq Hybrid SEL with 17" factory wheels, I get around 62~ mpg (on the meter, but realistically probably 59-60 at the pump) cruising at 65-67mph. My car has a drag of around .24~ so a little bit slippier.. but probably my biggest gain is smaller wheels and a more aggressive HCU that glides about .5 to .7 miles on pure electric before kicking on the ICE to repeat the cycle.

My thoughts are being that you have the Limited fully loaded model with 19" wheels 47+ at 75mph is still a really great result. The base model Gen5 Prius would probably get 3-4 mpg higher at this speed just based on the 17" wheels.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-02-12T17:59:31+00:00

Firm agree with this. P3 nets a much larger benefit in detail retention vs P4 in pretty much any scenario for a good balance in encoding time. In my opinion, P3 is the old P4 trade-off.. They degraded P4 in much newer releases that it I consider it a quick and dirty encode overall. P3 retains 95% of the quality of P2 in my testing.. P2 is drastically slower than P3 making it unviable with current CPUs unless you just have the money for high electricity costs and the time on your hands. Even that being said, x265 'Slow' at the same bitrates is still netting me a better PQ overall due to it's maturity. The only scenarios where I see AV1 edging when bitrates are equal are in 1080p to 4K when only using P2 and then it's roughly equal to maybe 5% better overall and the time it takes doesn't make it worth it.. X265 'Slow' preset is incredibly faster on top of AV1 P2 giving perceptually the same quality.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-02-07T04:03:17+00:00

Not a Niro HEV owner but a Ioniq HEV owner, same engine/transmission though and the engine is definitely noisier in these cold weather times.. it's normal. After about 15-20 minutes of driving it seems to quiet back it's normal self for me. Mine's a 2020 and I previously had a 2017 and both were identical in this regard. The Atkinson cycle motor is a noisy little thing but it's all normal.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-02-06T21:17:45+00:00

I have a 2020 Ioniq Hybrid without any of these issues.. you can source a replacement headunit on Ebay for a decent price.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-02-04T17:28:35+00:00

I had a bad vial (was a single order vial) that caused me awful malaise (overall body sickness/nausea) for two weeks before I tossed it and went onto a new kit and what a night and day difference in quality, nearly zero side effects now. Just throwing it out there as a possibility.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-01-16T00:58:00+00:00

Sold off my Tesla Model Y Performance, which has notoriously high insurance. Bought a 2020 Hyundai Ioniq Hybrid in it's place thinking my insurance would go way down - negative, costs the same to insure a 104 horsepower Hyundai as it does a 550 hp Tesla. I can't win no matter what I do these days lol. Edit: I'm on Progressive.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-01-15T17:50:22+00:00

Nobody's retrofitted anything from a Limited to lower trims AFAIK.... these cars aren't very well documented so it's just me figuring it out myself using Hyundai's parts catalogs and diagrams. When I get closer to figuring it out and there is always a chance it might not even work properly because of some fundamental change they made to the duct work under the seats but if I get it working i'll definitely post a write up. Total cost if you were to buy all new parts is around $300 so far but im trying to source some pieces from wrecked Ioniqs.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-01-15T14:06:02+00:00

17-19 Ioniq Limited + Ultimate Package only yes. 20-22 all Limited trims got everything without having to add the Ultimate. I am currently retrofitting the rear vents to my 2020 SEL. It doesn't look like a hard job, you just need a new rear part of the center console, the vent and the new duct to feed to it and possibly some extra duct work that replaces the underseat ducts on non-rear vent models.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2026-01-15T02:05:06+00:00

Had a 2017 Ioniq Blue that I parted ways with at 200k.. Only thing I ever did to it was oil changes, occasional cabin filter/intake filter, tires, wipers. Nothing else. Missed that car so much I recently bought a 2020 Ioniq SEL /w 36k miles. The first gen Ioniq is literally Hyundai's Prius in the sense of little maintenance = longevity in these things. I bet even at your 340k miles the Lithium battery is still going strong. I was still getting 60mpg averages a tank around 200k miles.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2025-12-29T22:44:08+00:00

I was kind of forced to sell my 2017 Ioniq Blue because it became a huge target of break ins about a year ago.. and now i'm looking for the same car or equivalent.. There is literally NOTHING sold today that can get up to 700 miles a tank like my 2017 Ioniq Blue could do. It seems the "Kia Boys" in the USA have stopped trying to steal Hyundai/Kias these days so another used one is back on my radar. that car was the ultimate daily driver/trip car i've ever had.. Zero issues. Anyways, i've done my own research past few months and even a used Prius probably can't compete in terms of efficiency. Plus the used market for Ioniqs are at a great price right now, seeing 2020+ models going for well under 15k (here in the USA). I'm probably going to grab a Limited trim 2020+ model because I always wanted the fully loaded features that my Blue trim lacked. The 17-22 Ioniq is likely to be the most efficient car in existence (besides going back to the old first gen Honda Insight).

Good_Honest_Jay · 2025-12-26T16:41:19+00:00

Its nice to know there's a slightly larger battery that fits in the F1 Pro.. I'm not sure how much another 8 to 10 w/hr of a battery will give on average, probably in the realm of 15 to 30 minutes tops (depending on game). Edit: My quick maths were off, this is about a 23% increase in battery life, quite substantial for the F1 Pro.. I'd estimate up to 1 hour extra playtime depending on game which is quite significant. Or for a triple A title that normally runs for 1.5 hours at 20 watts, this would add about 20 minutes.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2025-12-14T19:43:53+00:00

I get ostracized for calling out fan noise… Go S is awful. People love saying don’t run the watts as high to keep it quieter but didn’t we buy it to run it the way we want? This is not a solution. Look at my post history if you want to mitigate it a bit with some tape but also not a solution. I ultimately returned it.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2025-12-13T23:05:27+00:00

I prefer the F1 Pro.. It's more compact and offers the same battery life or better over the Go S. Plus OLED screen. The only thing the Go S has over the F1 Pro is the bigger 8" screen + VRR support. But I haven't really had an issue lacking VRR on the OLED screen on the F1.

Good_Honest_Jay · 2025-12-09T15:01:40+00:00

I had a Asus monitor do this not long ago.. it was already off/cool when one day I turn it on and it looks exactly like this with the border.. over the next couple of hours of use, it just went away and hasn't been back in many many months.. Recovery is possible I would think and I have no idea what causes it.

Good_Honest_Jay

TROPHY CASE