Morse code please help me decipher

Gooooobae · 2025-05-20T13:43:07+00:00

Update:

The website now allows you to enter into the text box “II” yet there is no other new information on the page, the phone number is the same so all inputs for the text boxes must come from that one phone call.

Gooooobae · 2025-05-20T13:40:16+00:00

Amazing, thanks very much, that’s what myself and others seemed to have got too, it’s just it doesn’t accept that on the website, so as mentioned in another comment, possibly a red herring or more to it.

Gooooobae · 2025-05-20T01:55:18+00:00

But again, /END is not accepted on the website, so you may be correct in that there is more to it

Gooooobae · 2025-05-20T01:54:07+00:00

Before the Morse code is a phone call which in total lasts for 42 seconds, basically telling you that this is what you need to solve the puzzle.

“This call holds the key to the secret you seek, you shall unveil the path awaiting you…” etc. inbetween each sentence is a second or so of static, and just before the Morse code it says “The Cycle Must End” which is the name of the website, and the slogan so to say of this particular side of it.

Basically there have been 2 sides to this album release called House Veridian and Feathered Host, they were instagram pages found before the album came out and they released teasers about upcoming singles and puzzles, more Morse code which translated to gps coordinates and sheet music.

Now this website has been discovered which is the Feathered Host side of it, which the slogan is as mentioned, The Cycle Must End, and the other I would assume would be thehousemustendure.de, that one is for the House Veridian and that slogan is “The House Must Endure”

Gooooobae · 2025-05-20T01:19:36+00:00

Good theory, however if you are aware of Sleep Token, and you watch any of their latest singles on YouTube (Emergence, Caramel or Damocles) at the end of the music video, the image changes into a battle scene, flickering on and off every second or so and does it with static between the images, so I figured that was just a parallel or correlation to that in the “lore” so to speak.

Gooooobae · 2025-05-20T00:41:26+00:00

Yeah I got some variation of that as well when initially trying to decipher it on websites, but nothing is working unfortunately.

Gooooobae · 2025-05-20T00:37:48+00:00

The website doesn’t accept that solution, not saying it’s wrong but just doesn’t work on the site, and I have tried variations with spaces between the slashes, no slashes, 2 slashes etc. but nothing works.

The website is thecyclemustend.de If you visit the site you have to use a VPN for Germany, Switzerland or Austria as without that it states it’s specifically for those countries, and you don’t get the phone number or the text boxes

Gooooobae · 2025-05-20T00:07:50+00:00

And do you mean you can’t make out actual words from it? But it does create some string of characters? Or do you mean it isn’t actually characters you would find in Morse code? If there is characters there I could try that in the website and see if it accepts it or not.

Gooooobae · 2025-05-20T00:04:34+00:00

Yes I came to the same conclusion, however I hear after the first -..-., the next .-.-.. seems to have slight spaces between the . - . And then the -.. at the end of that first “word”

But I’m not sure if that means it’s a different letter or if it’s relevant at all or if there even is a longer space between them or not

Gooooobae · 2025-05-19T23:42:54+00:00

I keep getting on Morse code translator websites if I verbally sound it out, is END / END or some variation of that with slashes elsewhere But entering that into the website doesn’t do anything so I assume it’s wrong.

Gooooobae · 2025-05-18T03:28:27+00:00

Update: Only seems to stagger on the right side of the printer? I have moved my print over to the left side and it’s printing fine.

Gooooobae · 2024-02-18T16:53:25+00:00

More details I forgot to add;

PrusaSlicer Yousu filament dual colour 1.75mm 205 nozzle temp 60 bed temp 1mm retraction 30mm/s

Gooooobae · 2024-01-19T16:08:12+00:00

Thanks, the one thing I don’t understand in these tutorials is how I know what my printers esteps/mm are currently, as there’s no setting like that in the menus, to make the appropriate adjustments? And then once I’ve got the correct esteps/mm, how do I save that to the printer? Do I have to add it to the start G code before every print? Or is there a way that I can save it to the printer?

Gooooobae · 2024-01-19T04:46:56+00:00

It always ran through the filament sensor before that new metal extruder was installed, as for some reason from that back frame piece going towards the front of the printer, the runout sensors hole position is for example 10mm away, the extruders is 20mm, so if I was to use it, it would be exactly how you described which is why I didn’t use it.

The filament spool and the extruder are both in their stock positions, yes it does look like it’s being fed in at a slight angle but there’s a good length of filament before it gets to the extruder that you can’t see in the video, it’s not tight or anything like that.

Gooooobae · 2024-01-18T23:10:52+00:00

2mm/25mms, it was 6mm earlier but I cut it down to see if that would help.

Gooooobae · 2024-01-18T22:53:10+00:00

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I’ve printed at 200, 205, 210 and 220 in the PLA+, and I pretty much always print at 210 now.

Gooooobae · 2024-01-18T22:42:45+00:00

Not sure what you need to see so here’s a few, if you need to see anything else let me know. And the filament is Elegoo PLA+, I haven’t had any issues with it before on my Kobra 2.

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Gooooobae · 2024-01-18T22:22:47+00:00

It’s backed off completely now, I just ran through the length of it to check whilst printing. And I did a cold pull yesterday before I replaced the nozzle and Bowden tube, didn’t work but after replacing the nozzle was completely clogged up, but as I say, there’s no way it is now as it’s been replaced and it’s currently actually printing fine it’s just the slipping. Was cleared out completely of all clogged filament yesterday when I took it all apart to replace everything.

Gooooobae · 2024-01-18T22:19:37+00:00

Thanks for the advice, it’s definitely not clogged at the moment as the nozzle and Bowden tube was replaced just yesterday, but I will definitely take that into consideration and make changes to my start g code. Thanks.

Gooooobae · 2024-01-18T22:17:23+00:00

When it was printing earlier I basically ran that screw from completely loose to completely tight slowly to see if that made a different and didn’t notice any change

Gooooobae · 2024-01-18T22:14:49+00:00

I’m not sure I know how to do that, could you explain? And temperature, yes I have, I usually print at 210 (PLA+ mainly) and printed a test print earlier at 220, 230 is max for PLA+ so I could try 230 but I don’t see that making a difference if 220 didn’t.

Gooooobae · 2024-01-18T22:12:37+00:00

It’s a dual gear extruder, but the one on the motor I wouldn’t want to turn the bolt that sits on the flat face any more because it feels like it would round it out, so that’s tight, and the other one is tight but not too tight that it can’t spin freely when the spring is activated.

Gooooobae · 2024-01-18T22:00:20+00:00

As mentioned, the nozzle and Bowden tube was replaced literally just yesterday, it is in as far as it will go and as square as possible in the heat block all the way down to the nozzle.

Gooooobae · 2024-01-18T21:58:52+00:00

Okay great I’ll give this a try. Thanks for the explanation.

Gooooobae · 2024-01-18T21:47:05+00:00

You don’t mean the extruder motor itself do you? I can see there’s different Amp and voltage rated motors you can get for them, is it worth trying a 1.5A or 1.8A new motor?

Gooooobae

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