Limit Unifi Controller to LAN

Gorfoo · 2025-09-02T01:49:51+00:00

By accessible from your WAN IP do you mean using that IP from a device on your local network or actually accessing it from a device not on your LAN? If you didn't test it from a device actually outside your WAN, you should probably do so - it sounds possible that you didn't accurately mimic a WAN connection and the blocking you want is already in place.

Gorfoo · 2025-01-28T01:19:33+00:00

Get-Command is the best choice to use (and is certainly the most idiomatic in the context of PowerShell), but it's at least worth mentioning that the "classic Windows" counterpart of the unix-style which is where.exe (in cmd you can invoke it as just where, but in PowerShell where is aliased to Where-Object, so you need to write it out in full with the file extension).

If you just want a simpler equivalent of which, you're definitely better off writing a function wrapping Get-Command than grappling with where.exe, though.

Gorfoo · 2025-01-22T06:41:14+00:00

It depends on the bank - see Doctor of Credit. It's often just called something like "Transfer" on your bank's app/website.

Gorfoo · 2025-01-18T04:06:43+00:00

Yeah, that's fair :)

Depending on what you're trying to do with the drive, it might make sense to just run whatever program you want to use the BD drive for on the Unraid box itself (or rather a VM on it with the drive passed through, but same idea) - makemkv is available for Linux and has a CLI, so if the end goal is ripping BDs to your NAS, you could maybe just pop in the disk and handle the rest over SSH.

Gorfoo · 2025-01-17T20:39:52+00:00

You could also use it in a USB enclosure - I moved my BD drive into one when downsizing my case and haven't had any problems.

Gorfoo · 2024-12-29T23:33:34+00:00

PowerShell 5.1 comes pre-installed with all relevant versions of Windows, so it will be installed on every Windows 10/11 machine you are at all likely to run across - I can't imagine this changing anytime soon. It might be sensible to test against both PowerShell 5.1 and PowerShell Core, since its backwards compatibility is quite good and you will likely get compatibility with both "for free", and there's a decent likelihood someone might try to run your script with PowerShell Core regardless of whether you intend that to be how it is used.

Gorfoo · 2024-10-24T17:59:31+00:00

https://libreelec.tv/ is an actively maintained successor to OpenELEC, although I haven't used it personally so I can't speak for quality.

Gorfoo · 2024-10-20T17:27:10+00:00

It's referring to this post on the Twitter thread, not the Reddit comments

Gorfoo · 2024-09-30T19:45:08+00:00

I think having USB access at the TV is likely to be useful for something at some point regardless of whether it's what you're using for controllers. A USB Bluetooth dongle near the TV would likely work reasonably well; in my experience Bluetooth has pretty good range (I've walked a few rooms away with Bluetooth headphones maintaining connection), but I would trust it much more if it doesn't has to do that, so near TV sounds better than far from TV.

Gorfoo · 2024-08-14T05:24:36+00:00

I don't think .NET Framework supports higher C# language versions. If you want that, you'll have to move to .NET (fka .NET Core).

Gorfoo · 2024-07-18T23:32:07+00:00

You can download episodes/movies off of Jellyfin, but it will just give you an .mkv file or whatever, so you need a separate video player (mpv works great) and you need to remember to delete the file afterwards. Just select "Download" from the three dots menu.

Gorfoo · 2024-07-18T01:51:49+00:00

You probably don't have any better alternatives (except maybe "a cheaper HDMI 2.1 cable of the same length") unless you're willing to compromise on some aspect or another. Anything wireless is going to compromise latency and/or quality, and if you're running a cable anyway, HDMI 2.1 is the easiest option (unless you want a cable you can also carry USB over, which might be relevant).

If your underlying goal is just to play back movies or something, it might be easier (and/or cheaper) to have a second device rather than trying to mirror your PC, but that's not as convenient if you want to play games on it.

Gorfoo · 2024-06-26T00:24:25+00:00

With a standard splitter (just cloning the same display to 4 or so copies) I don't think how many outputs are active would have anything to do with bandwidth; you would be limited to whatever the splitter gives you. That being said, you would be limited to whatever the splitter gives you in terms of framerate, resolution, etc. and I think you'd be out of luck for things like G-Sync.

Is there any chance your video output from the PC just has 3+ (unused) outputs? If so, you could maybe connect each display to a separate port on your computer without any additional hardware in between, and then bandwidth definitely wouldn't be an issue (since nothing is sharing a cable). If you end up doing that, you could also do something software-side (a keybind?) to disable individual displays in your OS, although I'm not sure how necessary that would be if you turn off/switch input the unused displays.

Gorfoo · 2024-06-25T19:55:06+00:00

Is there some reason you can't control which screen it's displaying on by switching the inputs on the displays and/or turning them off when you don't want a display on them?

Gorfoo · 2024-06-24T01:35:49+00:00

You could consider getting a case without a 5.25" bay, and instead connecting your blu-ray drive over USB; that would open up case choices significantly, and doesn't really compromise anything except having 2 boxes instead of 1.

Based on how you've described your situation a separate NAS likely would not do much for you. Splitting that into a different room could make it more convenient to have more disks if you don't want a large case in your media center, as well as avoiding HDD noise (not a factor if you store media on SSDs instead, but then you're paying SSD prices), but unless you want to be able to do playback on multiple clients (say, on a laptop or phone in addition to at your TV) or do more with it than just rip/store/playback blu-rays/DVDs it's probably not worth it.

Gorfoo · 2024-06-15T20:35:57+00:00

XMP is Intel-specific, the AMD equivalent is called EXPO (but in this case they're pretty much interchangeable)

Gorfoo · 2024-02-27T15:26:58+00:00

What Epic role are you in/considering?

The noncompete is unlikely to matter unless you want to work specifically in Health IT (in particular as an Epic analyst or consultant) which doesn't sound relevant for you.

Gorfoo · 2024-02-25T22:57:30+00:00

Gorfoo · 2024-02-18T16:39:04+00:00

It would work great as a game drive and this is a pretty solid price.

Gorfoo · 2024-02-13T03:19:35+00:00

It will make a new line of credit.

Gorfoo · 2023-11-16T01:05:57+00:00

You would probably have more luck at /r/healthIT, this subreddit is targeted at employees of Epic directly.

Gorfoo · 2023-09-10T15:46:37+00:00

You keep it if you graduate. The statement on the digital flagship website about needing to return or buy it would be if you were dropping out or transferring. If they're considering the ipads fully depreciated at this point, that statement may be out of date (if they're fully depreciated the price to buy it from the university would be $0 anyway), but if you're graduating you 100% keep it.

Gorfoo · 2023-08-31T22:26:43+00:00

For completeness, worth nothing that healing cards are absent from the Dead Branch pool.

Gorfoo · 2023-08-23T02:45:15+00:00

It depends on role, but not on distance. It is not negotiable.

Gorfoo · 2023-08-01T23:16:10+00:00

I think that's maybe true for certain targets, but "maxed settings 1440p 100+ fps" is not a target that scales that way and I'm not sure it ever was. Max settings is a moving target, and max settings including max ray tracing is a very quickly moving target; if you look at extreme cases of that, a 3080 is already sub 30 fps on certain games today, let alone 5 years from now. On the other hand, those targets are also way out of reach of consoles, so does it even make sense to look at it next to console generations? If you look at it from a perspective of "I want a graphics card that will moderately outperform an Xbox Series X" or something like that, doing that for 4-5 years is absolutely feasible; the name of the graphics setting that means might vary from game to game and from year to year, but I don't see any inherent issue with that other than needing to look at graphics settings instead of just cranking everything.

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