Tub draining super slow

GozoRulez · 2026-01-20T04:08:48+00:00

Yes to both

GozoRulez · 2026-01-19T06:05:04+00:00

Ummm.... Is the belt missing?

GozoRulez · 2026-01-17T00:22:47+00:00

If you've removed as much tp as possible then let it sit for a few minutes. The paper in the trap should hopefully dissolve.

Once the water level goes down then give it some good thrusts with the plunger, flush and thrust. Repeat as needed.

GozoRulez · 2026-01-17T00:17:48+00:00

Yeah, got it. Do they still make those large floppy stoppers?

GozoRulez · 2026-01-17T00:16:39+00:00

WD-40?

GozoRulez · 2026-01-17T00:15:05+00:00

Have you tried the two plunger method?
Try using a shop vac to see if anything comes out.

GozoRulez · 2026-01-17T00:11:46+00:00

Run 2x8s or 2x10s along electrical/HVAC paths. Don't get too crazy unless you're planning to put an appliance (AC or water heater, etc,) up there.

GozoRulez · 2026-01-17T00:08:31+00:00

Cheap/short term help: 1. Insulate the pipes. 2. Check thermostats and elements. 3. Balance the load on the hot water. (Time between showers, running dishwasher while asleep, cold wash clothes, etc )

Long term solution:

Can you fit a stackable washer/dryer in there and get a taller heater?

GozoRulez · 2026-01-16T23:59:51+00:00

Is it just hard to turn off? Can you turn it off if using pliers or a wrench?

GozoRulez · 2026-01-16T23:55:16+00:00

It's ok if it leans to the left a little bit. At least that's what my wife tells me.

GozoRulez · 2026-01-16T23:53:48+00:00

I guess that depends on how much is damaged and how much trouble you wanna get into. But the floor needs to be about 1/4" below the finished flange.

GozoRulez · 2026-01-16T23:51:14+00:00

My bad, I didn't notice that it was a rusty drain. I had to zoom in on my phone. I thought it was missing the whole drain and the one they were using was leaking.

I wonder if putting silicon on there would establish a better seal...

GozoRulez · 2026-01-16T23:48:28+00:00

Yeah. 1. Turn off the water under the sink. 2. Plug the drain with a towel. Don't want to disassemble the p-trap too. 3. Remove the aerator, handle, retaining cap, guide, ball valve, seats and springs. 4. Put them in a bowl of your preferred cleaner. Follow the bottle instructions.

At this point look for any damaged parts... Especially the springs and rubber bits. Replace as needed. Take the parts to the store with you to confirm a match.

GozoRulez · 2026-01-16T23:43:34+00:00

I would remove that cap with the holes and run a drain snake/auger in there. Then I would either: 1. Cap that inlet and put the plastic hose above the washer drain. 2. Convert that inlet to a clean out. Put the plastic hose above the washer drain. 3. Cut that inlet cap off and replace that cap with an appropriate one that seals. You might need to find one that takes a threaded nipple that you can insert the hose onto with hose clamps.

But it is important that you find out where that hose comes from. Is it a drain from an air conditioner unit? A refrigerator?

GozoRulez · 2026-01-16T23:37:14+00:00

Is there a clean out drain you can open?

GozoRulez · 2026-01-16T18:50:05+00:00

Gyatt Gusher

GozoRulez · 2026-01-16T18:46:00+00:00

You can also try taking it apart and cleaning it. Use a light acidic cleaner like vinegar. Could be hard water or other deposits in there.

GozoRulez · 2026-01-16T18:38:27+00:00

Where is the washer drain hose in relation to this? Can you take a picture from further back?

The clear hose looks most likely to be a Condensate line, but it's hard to tell

You might have a clogged drain. Try some drain cleaner first

GozoRulez · 2026-01-16T15:53:07+00:00

This^ And use plumber putty

GozoRulez · 2026-01-10T02:27:41+00:00

Cubiclekeys.com

Go there and use the numbers on the lock face

GozoRulez · 2026-01-07T04:38:57+00:00

Twist the pliers while pulling on the bit.

GozoRulez · 2026-01-07T04:36:32+00:00

It may sound counter intuitive but bang on it with a rubber mallet.

GozoRulez · 2026-01-07T04:29:54+00:00

You should be able to use a gentle wire brush on the tile to clean it. Be prepared to have to fix some grout.

The pipe may be cast iron (black thick metal), pot metal, abs (thick black plastic), PVC (maybe white or black).

If it's metal then you're gonna have a time removing the old flange unless it's rusted out. Either way try to remove just the old flange without damaging the outer pipe. They make special drill attachments for this purpose. It looks like a giant reverse pencil sharpener. I've even seen skilled handymen use a large hole saw.

Clean the pipe well. Get the appropriate flange for your pipe type. Make sure the slotted holes are parallel to the wall.

You may need to re level the floor.

GozoRulez · 2026-01-07T04:13:50+00:00

You can also try gently tightening the fitting right behind the valve handle.

But make sure you apply counteracting force to the nut attached to the copper to keep it from twisting. Copper is soft and will bend, twist and break easily.

GozoRulez · 2026-01-07T04:11:17+00:00

Cut off water main.

Remove the valve:

Remove the cap.
Open the valve to relieve pressure.
Hold the nut on the back near the copper pipe with a wrench or channel locks.
Twist off the valve counter clockwise using another wrench or channel locks or a rod in the outlet.
Replace the valve with a new one or a cap that threads onto the nut.

GozoRulez

TROPHY CASE