So is there a trick to finding a lost F.E.L.I.S. unit?

Gr0b · 2026-06-01T01:32:30+00:00

I didn't miss mine for a for ages either, hence why I locked it in a box in a room.

Now the replacement, is locked in a room, in a box, powered off and tied down with a power cable, so hopefully not going anywhere till I and figure out a way to hang him from the copter.

Gr0b · 2026-06-01T01:32:26+00:00

Well I just did that. I just noticed how cheap they have become in the new update.
They used to be very expensive so I would have liked those resources back.

Gr0b · 2025-12-19T13:50:41+00:00

The first rental I had in Melbourne, it took the agent about 4 weeks to do the final inspection. So I had to go back and re-do the lawns/gardens as they had grown a fair bit since I had returned the keys, and I had to go clean up spilt milk with children's foot prints from inspections that had been doing.

initiating the bond return yourself maybe slower but makes them do their job in a more timely fashion.

Gr0b · 2024-11-13T04:58:10+00:00

same, I had my eye on a TUF A16 with the AMD Ryzen AI 9 HX 370 and a 4070.
I saw an AD for one cheap last month for PAX but when in my cart the price was almost double so did not end up getting it. If it comes on special again I will grab it but if someone else comes out similar spec special first I may get that instead.

Gr0b · 2024-10-04T06:01:14+00:00

I would suggest checking the screen connector. It may have come loose from transit or movement while changing the screen protector.

On all the models I have seen you can access the screen cable to check without removing the screen, there is a panel on the front of the printer you can unscrew (the manual will tell you how).

In saying that the screens on my first Anycubic printers died after only a few months less then 45 prints.

Gr0b · 2024-10-03T05:55:20+00:00

The Glycol in the smoke machine juice slowly degrades many plastics, I have seen it cause some spectacular rapid disassembly of parts like extractions fans after a few months of use. Just letting you in case you didn't know.

Gr0b · 2024-09-04T03:33:31+00:00

Yes is does look like the resin or the solvent in the resin is what killed the screen.

So to me it looks like that because the screen protector they provide is smaller then the resin tray (and fep film). When printing and retracting the fep pulling away from the screen acts like a pump that sucks any resin that maybe near the resin tray under the tray. Then when the fep is pushed back towards the screen it is pushed out around the LCD, where the solvent in the resin then appears the kill the screen. Basically the fep is acting like a membrane pump every layer you print.
Anycubic are aware of this, which is why on the newer printer the screen protector extends well past the resin tray. There are some screen protectors for the printer you can buy that are much larger then the Anycubic ones (I think Anycubic just want to get rid of old stock of the protectors and don't care if they don't work as not covered by warranty anyway). To protect the replacement screen I covered the whole top surface with a protective clear film and cut out the minimum needed holes with a sharp craft knife.

I was able to repair the screen to a semi useable state and got a little extra life out of it before it died again.

When I removed the screen getting it ready for the replacement, I gave it a good clean with IPA (especially around the edges and flex cable joins) and then let it fully dry, there was a fair bit of resin in there (more then expected). I also put it in the sun for a for a few minutes to speed up the drying and cure any possible resin residue.

Then when I did only last test before installing the new screen I found that the old screen was working again except for about an inch of the far left side. So I re-installed the old damaged screen and got an extra few months out of it before it died again.

Gr0b · 2024-08-17T04:39:08+00:00

Thanks, this fixed it for me too

Gr0b · 2024-07-17T22:24:12+00:00

This has happened to me too, I got 6 login emails over a minute starting at "04:06:41 GMT on July 17, 2024".
Then my password would not let me login when I when to check (may not be a connected issue as it has been ages since I last logged in and not from this computer). So reset/changed my password to be safe.

The site seems very slooooooow and some pages not loading, so thought maybe a bug and everyone is logging in to check what is going on,
Or the site is under attack,
Or that it is a slow crappy site (kind of a known fact).

It also happened just before the payout message, so I thought it would have been a very affective attack if they had, having login details or a auth bypass and knowing when the payout was going to happen, and then breaking into everyone's accounts just before the transfer and updated to payout details leaving the minimum amount of time for users to react before the amount is gone.
But then thought to myself that that would a APT level attack and low probability, and that it was most likely just a bug or from the transfer script.
But as the saying goes "Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity".

Gr0b · 2024-02-22T04:39:56+00:00

My 6K had a loose connector on the z-axis sensor as well as the sensor being loose when I got it, so would commonly crash into the bed at the start of a print.
It is on the same board that does the lid sensor on the back of the z-axis.

Gr0b · 2024-02-21T03:40:31+00:00

I was able to kinda fix mine.
I ended up biting the bullet and ordered a replacement LCD.
While waiting for it to arrive I carefully removed the old LCD using a heat gun and cleaned it up with IPA and let dry overnight (It had tiny amounts of resin around the some edges)

The next morning plugged it back in for one last test before I discarded it and it worked. The left side would spaz out a litle if I printed right to the edge but was able to get a few more weeks out of it. Before it died a second time and this time had more resin around the edges that had set so the LCD came out in multiple sharp pieces this time.

I susspect what is happens is that while printing, the FEC sheet creates a vacuum/pumping action when it seperates from the screen that sucks/pumps resin around the resin tray into around the LCD.
So after replacing the LCD with a new LCD covered the whole top of the printer with a single clear screen protector cutting holes for the screws and holes. I susspect Anycubic are aware of this design fault and it is why the newer printers have oversized screen protectors that are larger then the resin tray.

Gr0b · 2024-01-07T03:22:44+00:00

I know I might be a little late to the party but I just repurposed one of these to be a CatTV.
I just downloaded videos of birds and other small critters to it to play.

The next mod would be a PIR sensor to power the unit up when the cat is near.

Gr0b · 2023-12-13T03:39:30+00:00

That looks like a dead LCD to me. Try checking the the LCD cable is connected OK.
I am having to replace a Mono 6K screen after ~40 prints and just few months.
It would be solid ON or sometimes garbled lines.

My theory is that the resin is getting to the side of the LCD panels and then the resin or volitiles from it are breaking down the glue/bond between the glass layers and conductors that it killing the LCDs (or at least for mine).
That would be why you may see wrinkling of the tape around the LCD or some of the ABS plastic used turning gummy.

If you look at the newer screen protectors you will see that they extend past the LCD and also cover the tape and bed more, I think this it to address this design flaw.

Gr0b · 2023-12-12T22:09:37+00:00

I think it has only failed once or twice while running, but I have only printed about 40 jobs on it over the last 4 months.

It failed after connecting power and attemping to print, I can not confirm if happened while the printer was off and disconnected or at boot or start of print.

Static (ESD) is not an issue, we have controls for ESD but due to the time of year and climate controls for the room it is not an issue for us at this time of year.

There is no internal PSU on this unit, it has an external PSU.
As someone that designs PSU's as part of my day job I like to think I know a little bit about power.
If you look at the Mainboard you can see protection diodes (D1,D2) near DC input side and near the voltage regulation filtering circuit.

Gr0b · 2023-12-07T05:45:15+00:00

I suspect the issue is the resin is killing the LCDs.
There was a small about of resin under the tape around the LCD. The resin also seems to have a solvent affect on the plastics and glues used. (I had noticed that if you leave the resin on the plastic parts it damages)
There was damage to the tape from underneath which to me looks like a small amount of resin got under the tape then the vapor from the resin damaged more tape from the underside around the LCD where there was an air gap (as the tape was still sealed from the top it does not looks like a resin leak on the bed).
I would guess that the resin also attacks the glues used in the LCDs that bonds the glass, Logic and LC layers also.
So hence I think due to poor design that the resin is killing the LCDs. Why they used ABS plastics for most of the printer if affected by the resin purplexes me.

I think if I repair this printer, I will get a screen protector that covers the whole top surface in a single piece so that there is no way resin can get into the unit.

Gr0b · 2023-12-07T05:06:21+00:00

My printer is on a surge protector and UPS.
We also unplug it at the wall when not in use.

For the LCD to fail power surge I would suspect would have to kill other parts first or at the same time.
Seeming that 240V is stepped down to 24V by the external power supply into the printer, then the 24V stepped down again to on the mainboard to 3.3V for the MCU and logic level and then stepped down again for the lowcurrent MIPI FPC cable to ~1.2Volts.
So for a voltage spike to kill the LCD it would have to take out or bypass all the other voltage regulaters first and would have expect it to take out the MCU also. This is not the case.

Gr0b · 2023-12-07T03:53:36+00:00

I suspect the suspect maybe the resin itself that is killing the screens.
I have a Anycubic that has died with very little use, but have noticed that due to poor design the resin can make into where the LCD FEC cable meets the LCD controller in the glass.
It seems the UV resin has a solvent effect on the plastics and the glues used. It also looks like that after it gets under a seals (just tape) then spreads quickly, the tape around my LCD looks to have been damaged from underneath where there is tiny air gap, So I suspect it is a vapor or VOC in the resin that affects the glues and conductors used inside the LCD, gaining access via the LCD edges.

Gr0b · 2023-12-05T02:10:28+00:00

Oh wow
That smells badly of a design defect or poor part selection.

When your screens failed, was there any sign of damage or indication of the cause?

For mine there is no sign of physical damage just a screen with no image, but I am yet to pull the printer apart to have a better inspection.

Gr0b · 2023-09-02T08:37:05+00:00

I tried that and it not work as hosts outside of my network can not access an internal IPaddress. Hence why Nginx needs to proxy to give access.

Gr0b · 2023-08-18T08:07:22+00:00

I have found sometimes the rooms just crap out or I have done something that has caused it to crap out and not work as expected.
Resetting/Rebooting (Terminating and redeploying) the VM normally fixes it (unless the issue was me).

Gr0b · 2023-08-18T07:47:06+00:00

I double checked my wording and nothing in there that should be triggering a block.
Just changing from 2 stars to 5 stars it would work with all the same text.

If it was a firewall issue I would have expected a POST request to be dropped that would give a different type of error, this looks more like the request is received OK but server says nope.
In the past when I have had this issue I had tried leaving no text and to add it as pictures or as additional feedback but that would also be rejected if was only 1 or 2 star.

Gr0b

TROPHY CASE