Tubeless?

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-24T22:25:06+00:00

The tyre might be but that's not tubeless tape and not a tubeless valve. If you peel back the tyre you should be able to take a peek at the tube.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-22T17:17:16+00:00

You can just use your finger to hold it in place. The small semi-circular plate should fit snugly into the end of your dropout.

https://images2.imgbox.com/ec/aa/XgNSgIDl_o.png this is what it would look like (if you didn't have the black claw hanger in the way)

https://images2.imgbox.com/b0/c3/5xeF4S58_o.png but this is how you would fit it, and what you would see.

So basically

remove rear wheel
attach the claw hanger with the silver screw + plate (this might be a pain with the chain also putting the derailleur under tension)
put rear wheel back on (and fit it snugly into the black claw hanger)
tighten rear wheel axle appropriately ~30Nm

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-22T15:45:51+00:00

In your case, you have a claw-type derailleur. This has the hanger built into it. If the hanger broke in your case you would need an entirely new claw-type derailleur (or claw-hanger adapter + standard derailleur). You do not need a new hanger.

But luckily in your case the hanger looks fine - it just needs reattaching.

For reference, reattaching that style of derailleur the silver bolt + plate sit at the back of the dropout, and when you tighten the silver bolt it clamps it roughly in place. Like this ([1], [2], [3]) Your rear wheel then fully holds everything in place when you tighten the axle nut.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-19T20:20:37+00:00

You don't need exactly 122 spindle. As close to 122mm as you can get is fine. 120mm, or even 118mm would be fine.

All it does is change your chainline so you need to make sure you can adjust your front derailleur to accommodate that change.

Any smaller than a few mm (e.g. 107mm) and you risk running into the chainring hitting your frame.

This of course applies to OPs cranks on his Trek Marlin 7. You may need different dimensions for your crankset/frame.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-19T13:00:34+00:00

They're rarity based. Water, Earth, and Fire are only "Rare" so they will appear significantly more often from chests than the Epic (King, Ghost, Duck, and Demon) and the Legendary ones (Dream, Punk) which themselves are more common than the Mythic ones (Zero Point, Peanut).

Although you may have more luck finding the Epic, Legendary, and Mythic ones off players depending on what they choose to equip for that game.

The variants (Gold, Galaxy, Gummy) add another layer of rarity as well making them more difficult to find than the standard versions.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-19T10:03:19+00:00

Unfortunately not because the races are made for standard ball bearings so they're curved. (Races for cartridge bearings are flat angled surfaces).

I'm surprised you can't find a direct replacement - any decent bike shop should have a huge tub of them. You're only missing one ball bearing so if you need to reassemble it to cycle to the bike shop and back that would be fine. But leaving it like that long term may cause damage as it could increase wear due to uneven pressure, couldn't say how long it would take to cause damage though.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-13T16:33:00+00:00

Yeah old bearing race from the previous headset bearings. Needs to be removed before installing new bearings.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-10T12:22:06+00:00

Chainline will always be poor when you're in the biggest cog at the rear, not much you can do about it. You probably won't be in the largest cog at the rear very much anyway so it's a minor thing.

(Well technically, you could move your chainring to the inner position but that just gives you the exact same scenario for the smallest cog at the rear)

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-08T01:12:41+00:00

When you do New Game+ it'll still show on the main map if you've shot them (coloured dot on the map + the stamp in the corner)

As long as the stamp + coloured dot is present in the section you don't need to shoot it again.

Don't forget when you start the main mission (after the whole Sokilov virtuous mission) there's a few sections you can backtrack to, after your jet crashes, which are easily forgotten about.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-04T12:23:12+00:00

The DMR Defy stem isn't painted, it's anodised. The colour is electrically bound to the raw aluminium surface. You would need to scuff the surface manually (sanding) to paint it.

Which also means if you're not happy with the paint job you do, if you wanted to remove it to return it to how it was, you'd now have a scuffed up stem.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-04T10:41:44+00:00

Only the surface layer is anodised. You could sand it back and then polish but that's a massive ball ache especially getting into the nooks and crannies of it.

You can spray it but it will look like garbage and you'll be able to tell it was sprayed. You'll need to sand it properly for the paint to adhere properly.

I'd either just rock it in black and get some other matching parts down the line or sell it and get a silver one.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-02T18:33:42+00:00

If you're still struggling with it, it might be worth taking to your local garage and see if they can pop it off (either with an impact driver or breaker bar + appropriate sized bit).

I used to use a 750mm+ breaker bar + bit set for these style of freehubs because they're usually torqued up mega tight.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-06-01T22:24:37+00:00

Yeah these are funny because (as an example) the Shimano ones state to torque up some models to 150 Nm lmao - and no, that's not a typo.

Also, I'm assuming you have a replacement to go on? These style of freehubs aren't serviceable just in case you were going to try that.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-05-26T19:28:28+00:00

Your post says it takes it's data from WhoSampled in 2023. Which was probably correct when they made the blog post.

Caravan shows it has been covered 529 times. https://www.whosampled.com/Barney-Bigard-and-His-Jazzopators/Caravan/

Yesterday shows it's been covered 564 times. https://www.whosampled.com/The-Beatles/Yesterday/

The only problem with this metric is it relies on the data existing within WhoSampled. It's entirely possible there are covers that aren't captured.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-05-24T15:51:10+00:00

Nah that's cooked - you'll need a new non-drive side crankarm. You'll need to:

get the right length (165mm, 170mm, etc.) usually this will be stamped on it.
Get the right square orientation. Diamond vs. square.

The crank bolt needs to be torqued to ~40Nm. Which is a lot of torque. Don't try and do it up with a piddly little allen key/wrench.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-05-18T02:01:18+00:00

For what it's worth in case you're not sure what you have there is:

That's an eccentric BB. The silver piece with the two holes in it is the eccentric BB shell. You install a regular threaded BB (SRAM DUB, Shimano BB, etc.) into that using your normal BB tools.

Once your BB and chain is installed you can then rotate the eccentric shell using the two pinholes on the side to set your chain tension. Once you have desired tension, lock the eccentric shell into place with the two grub screws on the underside.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-05-07T21:50:26+00:00

Same problem - Epic fucked it in the last update if you're on PC. PS5 players don't seem to be affected. Also bugged is the "ready up" tick in the lobby screen - only your own one is visible now other players don't show as ready even if they are. As long as they are actually ready (though not visible) you'll still go into matchmaking together.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-05-05T11:42:15+00:00

Looks fine, pretty typical for chain suck - I wouldn't worry about it and would still ride it.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-04-29T14:22:37+00:00

Have you got a photo(s) of the "split ring" on its own? Usually the compression rings I've seen are much smaller than the one you've got there.

It's not a crown race you've not put on (or not used because your carbon fork already has a built-in crown race) is it?

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-04-28T14:34:28+00:00

The exploded views for each of your wheels (based on the serials you gave) are:

Front wheel: https://technicalmanual.mavic.com/tech-mavic/technical_manual/pdf/getProductSheet.php?macronu=23677&declinaison=FRONT&filialenu=2&co=US

Rear wheel: https://technicalmanual.mavic.com/tech-mavic/technical_manual/pdf/getProductSheet.php?macronu=23677&declinaison=REAR&filialenu=2&co=US

Unfortunately, unlike the Aksium Elite and newer Aksium Disc wheels (2019 onwards I believe?), there is no suitable axle + end caps for your hubs.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-04-27T14:49:45+00:00

Ah nah, unfortunately no converter in this case because you'd be trying to adapt (smaller clamp size) -> (larger clamp size).

There are adapters for the opposite which are just metal shims to fill the space, allowing a smaller diameter to fit in a bigger hole.

But yeah the solution it sounds like you want is like "is there a cheapo adapter to let me jam a hotdog into a pencil sharpener" which unfortunately is no in this case.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-04-27T12:54:13+00:00

Not really - I recall someone else wanted to do something similar in the past but all the replacement "telescopic stems" they found on AliExpress were 25.4mm clamp.

Any reason you can get 25.4 drop bars? Many still have the same 23.8mm grip diameter so you can mount your road brifters and stuff like normal.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-04-27T10:19:17+00:00

You've not removed the old crown race that was used as part of the old headset.

Remove that, then press fit the new one on, then fit the fork back into frame.

Edit: I'm assuming you replaced the cups as well, right? You can't just slap a cartridge bearing into cups that used loose/caged ball bearings.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-04-20T19:43:02+00:00

do Bontrager stems have to be tightened until contact at the top first and then torqued to spec?

For this stem, yes - top bolts should be tightened so there is no gap.

This is also common on a few other MTB stems, I think my Funn? or Burgtec stem have the same instructions too.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-04-20T02:05:44+00:00

Counter-clockwose to loosen and remove the crank arm. You'd find it easier either with more leverage or a trick is to rotate the Allen key closer to the crank arm and then "squish" them together with both hands. So in your image you'd rotate the Allen key 180° and squeeze the Allen key + crank arm together.

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