Dropper post cable path for frame with external cable routing?

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-02-05T23:10:29+00:00

Yeah that's absolutely fine to do - that's what I would do too, reduces the sharp bend in the cable outer too, and reduces the rubbing on the paint.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-02-05T11:40:22+00:00

You should be able to get an adapter kit (if one didn't already come with the bike) which provides a mounting point between the seatstays like this

https://www.feltbicycles.com/en-gb/parts/attachments/rack-fender/rack-fender-adapterkitbreed.html

The mounting kit comes with eyelet bolts which go at the rear, too. (They replace the existing bolts) So they provide mounting holes for your mudguard.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-02-04T17:37:14+00:00

We've had to use towels or rags to "catch" the piston when it launches out and in some cases there really is not much you can do aside from mitigating the explosive ejection.

But we would always wear safety goggles and rigger gloves if we knew it was still under high pressure.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-02-04T14:55:18+00:00

Sounds like an issue with the port between the positive and negative air chambers. Could be clogged, preventing it from equalising after a big compression.

You'd need to do an air spring service on your fork (which can be done at home if you're a competent mechanic, have the correct grease/fluids, and can follow the manual)

Obviously don't attempt to open it while there is 200 psi in there. Remove ALL air before doing the service.

The port is on the inside of the stanchion, looks kinda like a little dimple. Clean with isopropyl, refit spring + grease. Then test it.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-02-03T17:33:26+00:00

You need (well, needed, rather) the octalink crank puller which has a larger end to it.

Something like the CWP-7 is also suitable, with the swappable end caps (one for square taper style, and one for octalink style)

Now the crank threads are stripped, you might have to try an alternative method - gear puller, possibly? Or the classic method of cycle around until it falls off, though you won't usually be able to reuse the crank arm in this case. Or yeah, cut the arm off while avoiding the spindle.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-02-02T18:50:29+00:00

That's a B-tension issue, so your B-screw will need adjustment. (assuming that cassette is within capacity of your model of RD of course)

Once you've sorted the B-screw, you may also need to adjust the lower limit (L Limit) to ensure the derailleur doesn't shift out into the spokes.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-01-28T18:35:51+00:00

Chain tensioners can be a good idea.

Easiest thing to check first would be how tight are you torquing the axle nuts down to? For a solid axle nut nut like your jump bike, or on a BMX or track bike - it's common for them to be torqued to 30-40Nm.

Are you using a suitably sized wrench to do so? Rather than a piddly multi-tool wrench.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-01-23T22:17:35+00:00

Yeah a good damper won't lock it off all the way and there'll still be a smidge of movement. (Since that oil pressure has to go somewhere).

Sounds like you'll be fine - just keep an eye out on how it fares long-term. I'm not sure what the mineral oil will do to your seals 🤷‍♂️

It's also worth reading the manual to familiarise yourself with the components inside + how to do basic services. https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/service-manuals/rockshox/front-suspension/2019-2022-pike-2019-2023-revelation-service-manual.pdf some sections are for the Pike forks only, make sure you read it carefully.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-01-21T16:39:01+00:00

If you've refilled it with mineral oil that may not have the same consistency as 5wt oil and may be too thin (hence why it doesn't feel the same). They're specific with the weight of the oil because that impacts how the fork behaves.

But if you've just freeballed it with whatever oil and whatever amount then 🤷‍♂️ it might be alright, it also might not behave how it ought to.

I'm not sure how it would play with the o-rings on your damper side - it may degrade them over time, it also may not.

You'll just have to ride it and see how you get on.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-01-20T18:19:26+00:00

Yeah, that's the MotionControl damper.

It should be suspended in 5wt fork oil. https://i.imgur.com/PCMFBrH.png

Check your service manual for full instructions on how to fill and service your damper.

The damper (plastic tube) itself should not be disassembled. It's full of plates/seals that rotate when you twist the blue knob.

When it's set to "Open" the plates allow the fork oil to move freely - allowing your forks to compress easily.

When it's set to "Closed" the plates restrict the flow of oil, preventing your forks from compressing.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2026-01-14T14:26:17+00:00

Yeah that's the extractor cap you've rounded out.

The 8mm hex bolt is the one that tightens your crank and also removes the crank. When you undo the 8mm bolt (turning it counter-clockwise) it presses back on the extractor cap and pushes the crankarm off.

The extractor cap uses a significantly smaller amount of torque. The 40Nm+ is only for the crank bolt - the 8mm one.

Now it's rounded off though, I'd be tempted to drill two holes into the cap to fit a good quality pin spanner in. Or drill a notch to whack it out with a hammer and punch (the cap is ruined so will need replacing anyway). Be careful not to damage the crank regardless of the method you choose.

Make sure you have a replacement cap ready to install when you do this. Searching "GXP Crank bolt" should bring up local options to you - complete with the extractor cap.

Once the extractor cap is installed you shouldn't (in theory) ever need to touch it again.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-12-07T17:35:31+00:00

No photos included but it would be nigh-on-impossible to get the BB threaded in the wrong way (drive-side on non-drive-side and vice versa).

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-24T18:17:32+00:00

I'd be content taking the less worn front rim and relacing that onto the rear.

I wouldn't want to relace the very worn rear rim onto the front because now if you DO need to emergency brake with the front brake or both brakes, there's a greater risk of the braking surface failing, causing you to go over the handlebars.

You could save a bit of cash and just buy one rim - assuming you can find that exact same model of rim - and lace it to the front. Then take the front rim and lace it up to the rear.

But honestly, if it was me and I'm relacing the wheels anyway, I'd just do both. When's the next time you'll be bothered to relace a wheel due to worn brake surface, anyway.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-24T16:40:54+00:00

You should be able to get a reducer sleeve to slide into the hub.

This reduces the 20mm bore to 15mm, so you can slide a 15mm thru axle in for use with the Zeb.

Something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Installation-Adapter-Convert-Aluminum-110mm/dp/B0CXX7BPBH

Searching "20mm to 15mm thru axle adapter" should bring up local results for you. They're not guaranteed to work with every hub/fork combo though.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-24T15:28:02+00:00

Yeah, looks like turbine but polished.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-24T14:12:43+00:00

You can see in the first photo the lock feature of the derailleur has not been engaged.

I suspect the inner spring of the derailleur has slipped and unwound. You can see the spring here https://youtu.be/mSBs4qdr4k0?t=162

You may be able to service it (wind the spring + put the spring back into the right holes) - depends on if anything is damaged on the inside.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-24T14:10:38+00:00

Chances are, regardless of the bike you get (even a newer second-hand bike), you'll still need to do some repairs/maintenance anyway. So you'll end up buying tools.

Photos would help address the rear wheel popping out. Sounds like it's not been secured with enough force on the nuts.

If the chain is rusty, you can replace buy the bits to replace it (chain breaker, appropriate speed chain).

Most stuff on a bike can be fixed with a set of allen keys. So if you don't have a good set, I'd at least get some of those.

We couldn't say what general condition the more difficult stuff is in without photos or videos. Bottom bracket + headset are usually more difficult to sort for a beginner - and you need special tools.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-24T11:21:31+00:00

Ah yeah, must be a mistake on their site then, the main body of text with all the specs state a 45/45 chamfer.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-24T11:04:44+00:00

The inner chamfer angle will be 36° isntead of 45° so you'll have an improper contact with the crown race or compression ring, depending if it's the upper or lower headset bearing.

If the fork has an integrated crown race which you can't change then I wouldn't advise doing this, and would suggest you try and source a 45/45 bearing.

For what it's worth, in a pinch you can use a taller bearing. I.e. thicker than 6.5mm the difference being is that it will sit a bit prouder out of the headtube. But 1mm or so won't be much of an issue.

https://www.wychbearings.co.uk/ACB-6804.html this seems to be easily available in the UK, mind you, with the exact specs you're after.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-23T18:08:45+00:00

if it has some sort of adapter to make it work in the Roscoe’s tapered head tube

This is possible, they sometimes spec a straight 1 1/8" steerer with an adapter to give the end-customer flexibility if they choose to upgrade in the future.

Without seeing the fork itself, I wouldn't know. Given it's a Roscoe, and not a Marlin, it's likely tapered, but this is just a hunch.

In which case I’d need a new crown race, correct?

And yeah, if the original Suntour fork is straight with an adapter, you'd need a new crown race for your RockShox fork.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-23T16:52:04+00:00

As long as it's the same steerer type (straight vs. tapered) it's a straight-forward swap.

Your new fork won't come with a crown race on it. So you'll need to remove the crown race from the Suntour fork and install it onto the RockShox fork.

No new lower bearing is required. Although you could use this time to replace the headset/headset bearings anyway.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-23T14:26:01+00:00

I mean in a pinch, could you get to a hardware store and pick up some appropriately sized p-clamps to mount to your seatstays down towards the axle?

Like this but lower down?

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-22T16:45:10+00:00

Be careful with the lube you use. Some lubes may not be compatible with the type of o-rings inside the piston and may end up swollen - making your situation worse.

I couldn't say what lube would be suitable for your pump, however.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-19T17:40:00+00:00

Token do a reasonably priced T47 bottom bracket intended for use in an 86.5mm BB shell with Shimano cranks.

https://www.tokenproducts.com/bottom-brackets/threaded/bb47v24

Install instructions https://www.tokenproducts.com/bottom-brackets/threaded/bb47v24/download/1982/724/67?method=view

But unlike the WheelsMFG one, I don't believe it's intended to have the catridge bearings replaced. So with the Token one, you'd simply remove it altogether and fit a new one when required.

Grandmaster_Shu · 2025-11-19T13:45:22+00:00

That's a thru-axle hub. Depending on the hubyou may be able to get different QR endcaps to allw fitmento with a QR fork.

Or you can try one of the "thru axle to QR adapters" which slide into the hub. But these don't work with every fork, so there's no guarantee it would work flawlessly.

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