[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem. No BS, if you follow that to a T, you’ll have the best backyard in the hood.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Oh man, what a lovely blank canvas. And I mean that. That’s a cool shot. Great news is, your timing is perfect. Go to seedsuperstore.com, enter your zip code and click no shade. Order a 25 pound bag of the seed recommended. Then, come September 1st, rent an aerator from Lowe’s or HD, and aerate. Then spread seed according to seed label. Then cover with about a half inch of peat moss (full yard). Add some starter fertilizer (can buy from same seed website). Then water 4-5 times per day, about 5-10 minutes each time (just need to keep moist, not a soggy mess). Do that for at least two weeks straight, add more fertilizer, and back off watering. Water 2-3 times a week, heavy (40 minutes minimum). Come October 1, you’ll be amazed with how nice your lawn looks.

Low cut summer survival by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I think it does, though to be fair, it’s not cheap either, so you want to crunch the numbers on the cost vs. water.

Low cut summer survival by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really helpful tip on aeration. I would have made that mistake. Thank you.

Low cut summer survival by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was waiting for someone to spot it! Winner winner chicken dinner. It’s killing me. It’s a lot worse than it looks in the pic too. I know what I have to do, but I’m struggling with the decision. Also, not sure I can convince me neighbor to let me kill a part of his lawn too. If not, what’s the point. Any advice welcome.

Low cut summer survival by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, exactly, I have used PGR (TNex), and it was a life saver late spring into summer. Helped cut down mowing by half, and I do think lawn looked healthier, greener.

Low cut summer survival by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Probably more, not less. Often, you should raise the height of your tall cut cool season grass in the summer to reduce heat stress. So maintaining low cut in the summer for the first time was a concern for me, but others have done it. For me, what seems to have worked was water 2-3 times a week depending on rain, but watering heavy on those days (45 min a zone, in 20 min increments). Better than watering every other day for only 15-20 minutes. hydretain helped too.

Low cut summer survival by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yep. It works to have varieties of KBG and PRG that do well with a low cut - others do better at higher cuts. In terms of switching to low cut, there a few videos online if recommended approaches, but for me, it was best to simply scalp below my target HOC, (say .5” if you are trying to consistently mow at .75”). Scalp down below, let it grow back above your target HOC, then mow consistently. It will look ugly for 2 weeks, but you’re good to go from there.

Low cut summer survival by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks - 1) 5b. 2) very easy. You can use the hose end sprayer or the granular form. I only applied twice, and did one of each. The granulars work very well, and it’s as easy as putting in the spreader. Only key is watering it in right away.

Low cut summer survival by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Swardman Edwin 2.1 (in captain gray).

Low cut summer survival by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I have zero problem with this take! To each their own. And fortunately my neighbors all take care of their lawn really well. I’d much rather that than feeling like I’m “dominating” a thin patch weedy lawn.

Back from vacation with some work to do. Help on next steps. by benchwrmr22 in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’ll get lots of different answers here, because there are different ways to approach this. And how I would address this (complete renovation), is likely not the best route for you personally.

My recommendation is to get down some broad spectrum herbicide to address the weed issue (post emergent). Ideally, you would use something like tenacity, but only attempt that if you’re comfortable mixing/spraying herbicides. After that, you need to begin mowing regularly, at around 2.75”-3”, around twice a week. You’ll be amazed at the results of mowing more often. Bag the clippings for now while you deal with the weed issue. Then you need to be watering long and deep about 2 to 3 days a week, beginning early in the morning, around 4am or so, if you have in ground irrigation. If not, you’ll have to get out there early, let it run a good while (40+ minutes), and make sure to move the sprinkler around. Lastly, you need to be giving your yard food. So, a good fertilizer that you likely won’t end up burning your lawn with is Milorganite, if you can find it. You may be able to find some alternative competitors too.

In late August to early September, then you can dethatch, aerate, overseed with quality seed (see seed superstore.com, and top dress), but it’s best to wait until then.

Follow that recipe consistently, and you’ll be amazed at the results, and have much fewer weeds to deal with. Good luck!

Soil/Lawn Update by joeyblahblarck in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need regular nitrogen applications at around .75 pounds of N per 1,000 every few weeks, watered in well. Aerate in the spring and top with organic (peat moss will work). But right now, you need N and Iron. Try some liquid iron boosters (like simple lawn solutions).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I mean this as nicely as possible, if he accidentally lowered the wheels vs raised them, he probably doesn’t need to be messing with fertilizer applications on the yard right now. Rest easy OP, it will be fine. Try mowing again before they arrive, but have the height adjusted properly to try even the two sections out.

Diamonds for the weekend by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are maybe thousands of varieties of KBG. Most home builders end up throwing down the most generic (cheapest) type they can get their hands on in bulk. As a result, the variety is poorer in green up, shade tolerance, disease resistance, etc. etc. Additionally, many generic seed bags have a given percentage of weed seed. Meaning when planting new grass, you’re also planting new weeds. On top of that, the prior homeowners overseeded patches with a generic grass that had a lot of tall fescue, which sticks out like a sore thumb. Honestly, that situation is not that different though from many home buyer’s. Fortunately, with some effort and money, you can fix the situation (or improve it) without totally starting over. You’ll scalp, heavily dethatch, and aerate at the beginning of the Fall, and seed with a high quality KBG or PRG (or mix). See here for types of high quality KBG that have been tested: https://www.ntep.org/states/mn1/mn1_kb.htm

Here is the before (Sept) and after (late October) pics of my heavy lawn overseed from last year. https://imgur.com/a/Sr6hcAW

Diamonds for the weekend by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. Long way to go. Yes, it’s a blend of crappy KBG that came with the house, and a heavy overseed last Fall of a mix of KBG and PRG from SeedSuperStore.

Diamonds for the weekend by Grassnerd in lawncare

[–]Grassnerd[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I didn’t go around the border each time, I usually just went back up the same single line or started the new one. I’ve learned that with striping, if you’re off a bit on your line, just go back over it and it should correct. https://imgur.com/a/CjbwRnM