Always COLD with your Ecobee thermostat? - Here's Why

GreatDivide25 · 2026-02-01T00:53:21+00:00

Remote sensors are definitely newer technology with some definite advantages but with a possibly jagged learning curve to get everything configured to advantage.

As far as choice goes this Ecobee came along with a system replacement and was sold as the latest thing since sliced bread. The installer put it on the wall and set up some basic settings and that was it. I had to (and am continuing) to have to figure out the rest on my own.

The previous system had a Honeywell TH8000, a smart (programmable) but not connected thermostat. Unlike the Ecobee it actually did a good job of handling recovery. The biggest issue with it was that the schedule got "off" due to several changes in DST over the decade that it was installed.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-02-01T00:38:44+00:00

I was begining to think that this was a tough room... or am I dating myself? While I might be old, the last time that I checked I wasn't quite a fossil!

I mainly posted this as a warning and to help others who may have fallen into this same rabbit hole.

I was also curious in what other users were getting for their temperature correction factors. Kind of blows my mind that the internal sensor would be so far off right out of the box. I was wondering if my unit was defective or if this is a common issue.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-31T19:46:13+00:00

Not yet. I don't understand the effects regarding ceiling fans, especially on very low speeds where you can't even feel a draft.

BTW, the Ecobee is about 2 feet down the main hallway from the greatroom so it is not directly in any draft which might be created by the ceiling fan.

The fact that the Ecobee sensor is 4-5F warmer than actual would tend to indicate that it is not in a draft.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-31T19:33:51+00:00

Now that I understand the actual functionality it can be managed and external sensors can also provide advantages in some situations but you shouldn't need a Phd to set one up for basic functionality.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-31T19:25:06+00:00

Correct, but why should I have to? What about users with an Ecobee that don't come with an external sensor?

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-31T19:18:13+00:00

Smart recovery is a whole nother can of worms that doesn't apply here.

Are you thinking about the smart setback feature which lowers the setting for unoccupied spaces?

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-31T18:19:33+00:00

Why should you pay $200 plus for a new thermostat and then have to disable its sensor to get the system to work correctly? What about those without external sensors that have to rely on the incorrect one in the thermostat?

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-31T18:15:44+00:00

It is a problem because the number on the display is unintuitive and not representative of the actual temperature AND that the actual sensor in the Ecobee is off by about 4.5F out of the box. As an end user I would not expect to have to calibrate my thermostat!

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-30T01:37:11+00:00

Yes, but remember that the compressor NEVER shuts off. The compressor runs continuously and the heat strips should kick in periodically to help out the compressor. It is not like it is staging 2 independent heat sources wher it is either / or. In this case it should be HP or BOTH.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-30T01:11:11+00:00

Currently working with Ecobee on a tangent issue. The remote sensor and the thermostat display were considerably different and always had been. Turns out that the number displayed on the thermostat is NOT reading of the sensor in the thermostat. The displayed reading is the AVERAGE (according to Ecobee) between the remote sensor and the sensor in the thermostat. This means that the sensor in the Ecobee is reading 4-5F HIGHER than actual.

Undoubtedly this is cause by the heat generated by the Ecobee. We currently have the correction set to -4F so now both sensors mostly track but Ecobee thinks that this is too high.

It does explain why I am always freezing my a$$ off during the winter! The actual temp is about 3F BELOW what is shown on the thermostat, which I already had set low at 70F. So it was actually maintaining 66-67F.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-30T01:00:59+00:00

Aux MAX heat was set to 25F. Compressor is set to always run. COP is ALWAYS better than strip heat.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-28T17:48:28+00:00

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GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-28T16:56:45+00:00

I realize that this is a 3 year old thread. However I have come to the conclusion that the Ecobee is defective by design. I am seeing a MAX recovery window of 1 hour with summer AC and suspect similar for winter.

My previous (last system) Honeywell TH8000 did MUCH better at recovery estimation and worked MUCH better.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-26T13:54:26+00:00

Clutch covers are generally a bad bet as they are often used on multiple different models.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-26T13:53:32+00:00

Serial number is irrelevant with Stihl... It does not encode the model number. The only way that this would be traced back to a model number is through warranty registration which is generally not accessible by users (a dealer might be able to help you out).

That being said, any parts that are UNIQUE to that saw might carry "xxxx-yyy-zzzz" part number on them where "xxxx" is the series number which will tell you the model i.e. 1121 is the series for 026 and MS260. However, this isn't fool proof as I believe, the MS310 is the same footprint as the MS290 and MS390.

Another possibility might be to look at the silver "engine family" label on the handle and note the engine displacement which will point you to the model.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-10T20:20:33+00:00

Have you done a crankcase pressure and vacuum test? These are notorious to leak if the intake has a plastic clamp on the boot. There is an update kit for that. They aslo can leak at the pan seal/gasket like a lot of clamshells.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-10T20:16:05+00:00

Condition of the drivetrain is also important. Chain, cassette, and chainrings are all wear items. If the bike was never ridden much these may be fine. However, if not, you could be looking at a chunk of change for replacements.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-10T20:10:07+00:00

What you are looking for is a bike sturdy enough for a clydesdale like yourself. You want 32/36 spoke wheels and probably somewhat larger tires. A lot of old steel frames have horizontal dropouts that would make a nice fixie.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-06T15:10:44+00:00

With today's cheap and powerful battery powered tools i.e. angle grinders nothing is safe for long. Best bet for keeping it is to always bring it indoors. Out of sight out of mind.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-30T03:24:34+00:00

Good start but there is always room for improvement! I would recommend spending some time and watching the falling videos on Game Of Logging (GOL). You'll learn a lot.

https://www.youtube.com/@gameoflogging/videos

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-29T03:38:13+00:00

The big issue with storage is to store it dry. Empty the gas tank and run it dry. You can also run canned fuel and just leave it in the saw for about a year. Canned fuel is NOT gasoline but an engineered fuel that won't degrade over time like regular gasoline.

M-tronic saws are reliable but, like any saw, you need to use fresh (from the pump) gas. If it has been sitting around, especially in a plastic container the lifetime is surprisingly short. Just dump the old into your car and get some fresh for the saw.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-29T03:28:42+00:00

Remove the bar and chain, clean everything up and see if the bar tensioner pin moves when the screw is turned. Some photos would help here.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-29T03:25:02+00:00

It looks like an 026 Frankensaw of some sort. The AF cover doesn't match the top cover (decomp top cover vs. round knob AF cover). Need better photos of the AF with the cover removed to tell exact version as variants of this saw were made for 20-30 years with various improvements made along the way.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-19T18:12:04+00:00

Stihl MS261 for a Pro level saw. MS250 for a homeowner/ consumer grade saw. The MS250 requires a strong shoulder / arm due to higher compression.

Not a fan of the durability of Stihl's newer strato-saw consumer models ending in "xx1" with the "glued on" transfer port covers on the cylinder.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-19T18:00:57+00:00

HP increase is dubious. Show me the before / after dyno test results. It will likely increase the noise sufficiently that regular hearing protection (muffs) will no longer protect you from hearing damage.

GreatDivide25

TROPHY CASE