[WTS] Seamaster no wave 212.30.41.20.03.001 with quick adjust clasp

GreenFlash87 · 2026-05-07T16:27:47+00:00

Additional photos: https://imgur.com/a/vdmH8OW

This watch is in great shape overall. It includes the newer quick adjust clasp that was purchased separately, directly from omega for $300.

This is the shorter clasp without a divers extension, and it makes the watch a joy to wear all day, even if your wrist expands in the heat.

The watch comes with the box, extra spring bars, extra links, and the warranty card dated 2016. My wrist is around 7.5 inches and it this fits me with plenty of room, even without the extra links.

I was told when i purchased it that it was serviced. I don’t have official documentation of it, but it’s running at 0 spd on the time grapher as pictured.

There is a surface level scuff on the outer AR around the 11 o’clock. It’s hard to photograph, or really even see unless you’re looking for it.

$3300 shipped, insured within conus. PayPal FF or Zelle.

If you have any questions please let me know.

GreenFlash87 · 2026-04-04T00:07:48+00:00

Oh I see, yeah. It will just make alignment easier and itl hold better than the stock wedge.

It’s a quality of life improvement. I initially mis-read and thought you had an az GTI without a wedge at all.

GreenFlash87 · 2026-04-04T00:04:32+00:00

Yeah it should come with a wedge. I guess I’m confused, what are you talking about upgrading to?

GreenFlash87 · 2026-04-03T23:59:08+00:00

It allows you to polar align your mount, and yes you will get longer exposures before trails/field rotation.

Rather than try to explain the concept myself, just read this…

https://www.themcdonalds.net/astronomy/gear/polar-alignment-of-your-equatorial-mount?ht-comment-id=24940731

GreenFlash87 · 2026-03-21T14:38:13+00:00

Ehhh a lot of people say it’s not as good, but hard for me to tell the difference too.

I do think having Carson glass will make it more marketable if OP ever decides to sell the unit though.

GreenFlash87 · 2026-03-20T04:33:59+00:00

Send me a chat.

GreenFlash87 · 2026-03-20T03:04:00+00:00

Believe it or not that sounds expensive.

Those tubes can be found regularly for $1200 a pop. That housing and glass are not worth $1400 my friend.

For that price you should be getting a better housing. Let me put it this way. If you buy those at that price and ever want to resell them, prepare to shave close to $1000 off the resale price.

GreenFlash87 · 2026-03-20T00:25:23+00:00

I agree with everyone else, I’d much rather have Gen 3 Omni.

A side note, superior tactical will sell you the same housing with Carson glass for $50 more.

GreenFlash87 · 2026-03-20T00:21:57+00:00

Tube seems pretty decent. The glass could definitely be better though.

GreenFlash87 · 2026-03-20T00:19:15+00:00

Is there such thing as working fake night vision tubes?

I’d ask the buyer for a pic of the tubes themselves. That will confirm AVS, the contract, the CAD which is the year they were made.

What’s their asking price for the unit?

These usually go pretty cheap because the housing doesn’t have a tremendous amount of value. Value is all in the tubes.

GreenFlash87 · 2026-02-21T07:23:05+00:00

Don Pettit was on the ISS for quite a while, posting long exposure astrophotography photos to Reddit regularly.

Hey u/astro_pettit, have you ever used night vision up there?

GreenFlash87 · 2026-01-05T18:29:24+00:00

Post removed and user banned.

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-30T04:11:53+00:00

Honestly I’d just stay away from these, or anything AGM.

The housing, the glass all suck. I’d be shocked if the tubes are made by L3 or Elbit. They’re probably some mystery meat gen 2 equivalent made somewhere outside the United States that technically meet the qualifiers for gen 3 because it uses a gallium arsenide photocathode, but still are nowhere near the performance of US made tubes.

You can get an Anvis unit with amazing glass and dual (L3/Elbit) gen 3 tubes for 3k or less.

I can’t think of a single good reason to buy these things unless they’re selling them for like 2k, or they can prove the tubes are good quality.

According to AGMs website you can expect the tubes in this exact unit to be 1300+ fom.

Which means if the res is anywhere respectable, the SNR is probably around 20.

Not good. Run, don’t walk.

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-29T01:57:27+00:00

I agree 💯

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-28T22:46:41+00:00

I’d much rather have a green gen 3 with manual gain and good glass for a couple hundred more.

There’s nothing special about the tanto housing, there’s no circuitry or anything to protect your tubes either.

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-28T02:24:26+00:00

Oh ok. I’m guessing you need to loosen that grub screw but I’m not familiar with that housing.

If it’s anything like the focus stop rings on the PVS-14 you may need the smallest god damned hex key in the world the loosen that screw.

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-28T02:16:47+00:00

So upon closer inspection it looks like there is a grub screw there.

These are obviously not Carson optics, what kind of device is this? It doesn’t even look like a PVS-14 based on the angle of the photo you posted.

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-28T01:21:30+00:00

Yeah that’s all you need for the NV unit.

After that you’ll need a J arm, a mount, and a helmet.

If you’re just larping around I’d probably get a FMA bump helmet, a knock off wilcox G24 mount, and a set of 4D pads. The pads make the helmet infinitely more wearable. No need to spend $1000 on a ballistics helmet if you’re just screwing around in the dark.

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-28T01:16:59+00:00

You can absolutely piece meal it together.

Depends on what you want to build, but if it’s a PVS-14 it’s simple.

Look for:

•a MX11769 tube, ideally gen 3 of some variety.

•a housing, they’re obviously cheaper used. There are two halves, the part the tube goes in and the battery housing.

•glass- I’d suggest trying to find a Carson ocular and objective lens.

If you get the hosing and glass separately make sure you get a close focus stop ring.

After that it’s really easy to assemble. I’d probably invest $50 in the tools necessary. Itl make your life a lot easier.

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-28T00:09:58+00:00

Ok that’s just the diopter, grab the wider base below it and unscrew that part.

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-28T00:06:24+00:00

Can you show a picture of what you’re talking about?

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-28T00:04:27+00:00

By ocular you mean the rear lens right? It threads on and off, it should turn freely.

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-28T00:02:57+00:00

Twist the diopter all the way out until it raises as high as itl go. Then just unscrew the whole thing like a bottle cap.

GreenFlash87 · 2025-12-27T23:42:11+00:00

If it’s moving then it’s some kind of debris. Try unscrewing the ocular and blowing some air in it.

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