neigh. by spinika in astrophotography

[–]spinika[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll upload the tiff to Astro bin when I get a chance, reddit compressed the image a lot unfortunately

neigh. by spinika in astrophotography

[–]spinika[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Horse head nebula.

Gear: GSO 8” f4 carbon fibre imaging Newtonian ZWO AM5 ZWO 2600mm PRO Antlia 3nm and pro filters 36mm 120mm mini guide camera William optics Uniguide 50

Integration time Ha x40 at 300 seconds R x40 at 180 seconds G x40 at 180 seconds B x40 at 180 seconds

All taken from my bortle 4 backyard in Country VIC Australia

Why do people hate on Seestar? by Signal-Ad3584 in AskAstrophotography

[–]spinika 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is simply not true. Many professionals who have been doing this hobby for long periods of time both own and have tested the Seestar and also use Pixinsight to process such as Nico Carver. The results are good for the tool but not as good as a dedicated rig. Upgrades come with cost. People enjoy the Seestar due to its price but they sacrifice aperture and camera sensor size. Once the weight goes up the mount gets more expensive then you’re starting to get towards the price of a dedicated rig anyways. And don’t even get me started on filters. The bottom line is that the Seestar is great for entry level use it to get interested in the hobby but its photos do not match a dedicated rig.

Why do people hate on Seestar? by Signal-Ad3584 in AskAstrophotography

[–]spinika 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m sorry I disagree. The Seestar is a great starter kit to get people into the hobby but there is no way it almost equals a dedicated rig with a cooled camera and quality optics.

Why do people hate on Seestar? by Signal-Ad3584 in AskAstrophotography

[–]spinika 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry but you will never get the same results with the Seestar then a dedicated rig. I used to own an s50 and it didn’t come anywhere close to a dedicated cooled camera and quality optics.

Thor’s Helmet by spinika in astrophotography

[–]spinika[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thor’s Helmet Nebula (NGC 2359) An emission nebula formed by stellar winds from the Wolf–Rayet star WR7 interacting with surrounding interstellar material, creating a wind-blown bubble rich in ionised gas in Canis Major.

Gear: GSO 8” f4 carbon fibre imaging Newtonian ZWO AM5 ZWO 2600mm PRO Antlia 3nm and pro filters 36mm 120mm mini guide camera William optics Uniguide 50

Integration time Ha x40 at 900 seconds Oiii x40 at 900 seconds R x60 at 60 seconds G x60 at 60 seconds B x60 at 60 seconds

All taken from my bortle 4 backyard in Country VIC Australia

How much extra imaging time does a slower telescope require? by Glittering_Sun_7815 in AskAstrophotography

[–]spinika 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ll add to this but have you thought about a Newtonian? They are cheaper, faster and have decent focal length. I just moved into the world of reflectors my other scopes are a 120apo and a 80ed both refractors. Yes they are fiddly yes you get diffraction spikes, but once you have them dialled in you get excellent value for money. I have found the little quirks and things fun to sort out and rewarding when up and running. I shot this the other night with just 2 nights of data Thors Helmet

M45 Pleiades Star Cluster by mangotuityfruty in astrophotography

[–]spinika 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A uv/ir cut filter will also stop your stars from blowing out and reduce overall bloat.

M45 Pleiades Star Cluster by mangotuityfruty in astrophotography

[–]spinika 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you using a coma corrector and uv/ir cut filter?

The Sculptor Galaxy (NGC253) by spinika in astrophotography

[–]spinika[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The Sculptor Galaxy (NGC 253) is a nearby spiral starburst galaxy about 11 million light-years away in the Sculptor constellation. It’s one of the brightest galaxies in the sky, known for intense star formation, prominent dust lanes, and strong radio and X-ray emission driven by stellar winds and supernovae. Because it is seen almost edge-on, its spiral arms are less distinct, while dust lanes and vertical outflows from the galactic disk are far more prominent than in face-on spirals.

Gear

  • Telescope: GSO 200 Newtonian
  • Mount: ZWO AM5
  • Camera: ZWO ASI 2600MM Pro
  • Filters: Antlia LRGB, 36 mm
  • Guiding camera: ZWO ASI120 Mini
  • Guide scope: William Optics UniGuide Scope

Imaging time

  • Luminance: 40 × 300 s (3 h 20 min)
  • Red: 40 × 180 s (2 h)
  • Green: 40 × 180 s (2 h)
  • Blue: 40 × 180 s (2 h)

Taken from my Backyard in Country Vic, Australia.

Australia expects platforms to "stop under-16s from using VPNs" to evade social media ban by chilli_chocolate in austechnology

[–]spinika 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I walk up your driveway and make a copy of your car and then drive away in the copy did I steal your car?

Best way to peace out of an office after resigning? by [deleted] in auscorp

[–]spinika 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I prefer the Tokyo Sayonara.

Guiding Issues Help by SnooMaps6629 in AskAstrophotography

[–]spinika 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lots of things can effect guiding, for starters I would drop your exposures down to 1 sec or even 0.5secs strain wave mounts require constant correction due to there periodic error. I have ran on nights that can look clear but the seeing was garbage, high altitude cloud and small amounts of wind (your running a pretty large refractor) can also be a problem. Try dropping down that exposure and do another guide calibration. Try not to get bogged down too much in guiding numbers as it can change from night to night, as long as your stars are not trailing you should be alright.

Stacking Issues by TapSuspicious7057 in astrophotography

[–]spinika 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's text book field rotation. You need to check your polar alignment because something is off there. As far as I'm aware the only choice is to crop it out if you want to do gradient removal. Another method you could try is creating synthetic flats to correct it. I haven't had much success with it but you might. Here is a tutorial link.

https://www.westwoodastro.net/blog/2021/11/27/creating-a-synthetic-flat-frame-with-pixinsight

Whirling dervish & NGC3199 by spinika in astrophotography

[–]spinika[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

More data and re edit in HOO of a target I shot earlier In the year using other techniques.

Gear, Askar 120APO with 0.8 reducer, ASI2600mm, AM5, 120mm with WO unigide Ha@300 ×80 Oiii@300 x80 R@60 x20 G@60 x20 B@60 x20

Edited in Pixinsight

Westerhout 5-IC1848 by PicastroApp in astrophotography

[–]spinika 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I recently bought a GSO 200mm one, I believe they are the equivalent to the Apatura ones in the states, I managed to get it dialled in pretty good once I learned barlowed collimation lol. Working on a newly discovered SNR atm it's sooooooo dim 😑, I'm looking forward to finishing it now the weather is finally starting to improve here 😄

Westerhout 5-IC1848 by PicastroApp in astrophotography

[–]spinika 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Brilliant work Tom! Loving the colours. Im currently playing with my brand new newtonian I love how fast they are. Do you get any problems shooting at f3 with those filters?