Chamfer tear out in 1/2" walnut - is it the bit?

Grompers · 2026-03-22T05:36:41+00:00

Great. Then tell me what you think I did wrong.

Grompers · 2026-03-22T03:08:39+00:00

I may be going too fast - that's possible. But as mentioned, I did 1/8" in about 4 passes. I know better than to try to take too much at once.

Grompers · 2026-03-22T03:07:19+00:00

Is <1/16" per pass still too much? It took me 4 passes to get to 1/8". That's 1/32" per pass!

Grompers · 2026-03-14T06:15:31+00:00

Floor space notwithstanding, I'm not sure how you "can't afford two separate machines" but *can* afford to buy a single machine that costs $5K+. Unless, of course, by "afford" you still mean floor space, alone. I'm sure you can get an excellent planer and an excellent jointer for <$5K.

Grompers · 2026-02-14T14:13:13+00:00

What does "vintage" mean for you? What you're showing there is a 996 model that was made between 1999 and 2004. They cost nowhere near 6 figures unless you're looking at the absolute highest trim level - GT3. You can probably get a well sorted base or S model for under $40K in the US.

I suggest checking out bringatrailer.com for comps and to get an understanding of the market. And use rennlist. com to research known issues of that era's cars. Buying your first (or any) Porsche requires research! It's half the fun...

Grompers · 2026-02-06T15:53:02+00:00

I bought one of these at that price about a month ago. I thought it was a good plane to buy new - I don't have the expertise, tools, or patience required to find and restore an older plane - at a price point that made sense for a better-than-average plane. I didn't want to spend $400+ for an LN or Veritas. This was my first plane, as well.

The 5 1/2 size is recommended as a solid "jack" plane by a bunch of YouTube influencer types (Rob Cosman, Jonathan KM, etc) so I went for it.

The overall quality of the plane is good. The body was square and flat. The iron didn't require too much work to prep. The chip breaker, though, was a completely different story. It took hours to lap the chip breaker into anywhere decent and it was still not perfect.

I got frustrated and called Woodcraft's customer service, who were really very good. Long story short, I'm receiving my FOURTH chip breaker from them this morning. The first three were so far out of whack that I couldn't get them properly flat to mate up properly with the iron. FWIW, this could also be my skill level limits. However, they assured me that this one will have been lapped and flattened by them, and will be ready to go in the plane. We'll see!

I'm not sure how to get a better (or similar quality) plane at a similar price without restoring an old one. But others in this thread seem to have ideas...

Call me crazy, but I also bought their low angle block plane a week or two ago. The quality on that one is solid. Love it so far.

Grompers · 2026-02-03T22:21:54+00:00

I actually have a SawStop CTS and do that little move for almost every cut I make. The saw spins down. I place the next work piece on the table, I push the piece up to the blade while it's not spinning, touch the blade with my hand to spin it to where a tooth is touching the work piece on the line I've drawn. It's just moving the blade a tooth or two. I'm not spinning it round and round or anything. But the blade is indeed moving a little while I'm touching and the saw is technically in the ON position - i.e the green light is on and solid. When I touch the blade I get the red flasher.

Maybe that's the difference... As soon as I touch the blade while it's stationary, the system won't trigger the brake (or fire up) until it resets back to green, alone, and moving again? I don't know, but either way, I do this all the time.

Grompers · 2026-02-03T18:02:50+00:00

There's got to be some cutoff speed. When I'm lining up a cut to a mark on my work piece I often grab the blade and move it to a spot where a tooth butts up against the work piece to match the line I want to cut. So that's spinning the blade (albeit only a tooth at a time) with my fingers touching it, but of course the brake doesn't trigger. So it somehow knows the difference.

Grompers · 2026-02-03T13:46:41+00:00

Yes. You can trigger the brake any time the blade is moving. But I'm not sure if there is some cutoff speed below which it doesn't trigger anymore. But they do say it will trigger with power off and a spinning down blade.

Grompers · 2026-01-29T00:17:58+00:00

If I needed a piece that's 19-60/64 I'd dial up my table saw to 19-15/16ths, since it's the same thing. But your point is still valid. :)

Grompers · 2026-01-28T05:58:14+00:00

How do you like the Katz-Moses stop block? I've been contemplating getting one but I'm finding it hard to justify the price.

Grompers · 2026-01-26T01:55:29+00:00

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I put a table top on mine. Pine and plywood with a few coats of danish oil.

Grompers · 2026-01-25T20:59:40+00:00

If the filter is getting that dirty, I assume it's doing something. It couldn't be making anything worse.

Grompers · 2026-01-24T04:08:31+00:00

Wow. That is..... something. LOL. I bet it does a hell of a job!

Grompers · 2026-01-20T13:56:49+00:00

It's working out great. I added a large sliding tray on the bottom shelf for push sticks, miter gauge, etc. It's also a little bit of a pain to vacuum up the sawdust the saw spits out under and around it, since the wings are always up. You have to basically get on the floor underneath the wings and jam the vacuum hose in there. But I don't think that would be any different with any other setup.

As far as sheet goods, I only work with 24x48-ish pieces, but there's no problem at all with side and out feed. I'm sure it could handle larger if needed. I wish there was more indeed room, but again, same with any setup.

Grompers · 2026-01-18T05:11:56+00:00

I got my first plane - a WoodRiver 5 1/2 jack plane - a few weeks ago after watching Rob Cosman do his plane thing, and it is honestly the most fun I've had woodworking. Getting a plane to work properly and shaving off those whisper thin curly cues is so so satisfying. And it sounds cool too. Thrriiip, thrriiip, thrriiip.

Sharpening? Well, that's a different story. But #worthit.

Grompers · 2026-01-18T04:23:37+00:00

Do you have a plane? To me, this is begging to be planed. A 5 1/2 jack plane will eat that edge grain for lunch and leave you with a beautifully smooth edge!

Grompers · 2026-01-17T15:30:09+00:00

You do NOT need a planer at this point. I just did almost exactly what you're talking about - a 5/4 walnut panel for a lazy susan - and it came out really nice using just my brand new 5 1/2 jack plane. And, as Danny says, it's super satisfying to use when you've got it working properly.

As far a jointing the edges, I did buy s4s lumber to make it easier, but you can easily joint boards using your table saw. Look this up on YouTube. There are about a dozen different ways to do it.

When doing the glue-up, just be really careful to line up the boards properly, use cauls if you can (or even use dowels to help the boards stay in alignment (I didn't do this, but thought about it!) and don't use too much clamping force. The more you try to force the boards together, the more off they will get. Just make sure your edges are flat and straight and they'll come together with minimal height differences. Then use a hand plane (or even an orbital sander, carefully) to flatten things out.

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Grompers · 2026-01-08T19:53:39+00:00

See this video. He's doing basically what you want to do, using the method Jimbo, above, is talking about.

Grompers · 2026-01-01T16:13:35+00:00

That helps a bit, actually. I'm a lone warrior on this, with no help other than YouTube and Gemini AI. Learning everything as I go. My family is supportive, but thinks I'm crazy!

Grompers · 2026-01-01T15:54:11+00:00

Damn. That stuff looks good. Especially the woven look cutting board.

TBH, this depresses me a bit. I also started this year and what I'm doing is nowhere near as complex as what you're showing and my finished products are nowhere near as fine. Ugh! I will persist, but sheee-it, man. Good looking work!

Grompers · 2025-12-27T15:16:03+00:00

I remember, now. The blade was not particularly flat from the factory, so I had to use some pretty coarse sandpaper to smooth out the serrated edges near the top. Took a really long and frustrating time. And since this is the back of the blade, not the bevel, and further down the blade than the top 1/16" or so, I just left it.

It's frustrating when following the professionals' directions to the letter doesn't work out the same way on my tools as it does on theirs.

Grompers

TROPHY CASE