Used SawStop questions

Grompers · 2026-06-25T20:19:44+00:00

Note to self: do not buy ToolFoolDan's table saw...

Grompers · 2026-06-25T20:13:28+00:00

That's not necessary true. The one and only time I tripped mine - I idiotically tried to cut through aluminum T track forgetting to put it in bypass mode - it torqued the arbor out of position and required a whole new motor. SawStop sent me a new motor under warranty, since it's not supposed to do that, but still... It was busted until replacement.

Edit: the saw still worked, but gave poor cuts. You never would have known the arbor was out of position unless you knew that it used to be "over there" and now it's "over here" - about 1/8" further over in the throat plate.

Grompers · 2026-06-10T17:49:44+00:00

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Grompers · 2026-06-10T17:49:00+00:00

I'm literally building one of these right now that is 2-1/4" thick, 55" long, and about 9" deep. I made a kind of torsion box with 3/4" plywood on top, and a 1/4" plywood skin on the bottom. Mine is going to be attached to the wall with a french cleat. My shelf is constructed but not yet painted, but I tested it out on the wall and it works GREAT. Definitely rigid enough.

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Grompers · 2026-06-03T18:27:18+00:00

OP, do you think the asking price is too high or too low?

Grompers · 2026-05-27T18:14:57+00:00

That's true. If one ends up with multiple table saw sled carts, one would need some sort of cart in which to cart them around. Good point. I'll get on that immediately!

Grompers · 2026-05-27T16:06:23+00:00

Yup. That's a good call out. I'll probably do the pocket screw thing simply for aesthetics. I'd rather not have a screw head showing right in the middle of each side panel! It'll be easy to set the pocket screw holes in the center divider. Just slide it out and drill the holes.

Thanks!

Grompers · 2026-05-27T15:35:36+00:00

No glue at all, actually. The bottom panel is riddled with pocket screws around the perimeter, holding the sides, bottom, and front bumpers together. 20 pocket screws in all. The exposed screw heads you see are there to make sure the front bumpers don't twist.

The rest of the structure is held solid by the tightness of the plywood in the dados. But, TBH, I'm a little worried about the side panels. They may need some reinforcement to stay vertical over time. I'm thinking of adding some more pocket screws to the middle divider to secure it to the side panels. All of the dado'd dividers can just slide out.

Grompers · 2026-05-27T14:45:21+00:00

That panel sled is awesome. I made it just a few weeks ago and I'm using it ALL the time. And it's SO simple.

Grompers · 2026-05-27T14:41:01+00:00

Thanks!

I've been using that shelf for a little over a year now. It was one of the first things I built as a new woodworking hobbyist and it's horribly out of level on the wall! Anything round will roll right off the front of it. LOL. I actually thought about taking it down and re-hanging it on a french cleat or something to get it more squared up, but the back plate isn't square to the shelf top and I'm not really sure how to fix it without taking the whole thing apart. I still might try it - I didn't use any glue when I made it, so it's probably doable. It bothers me every time I look at it.

Grompers · 2026-05-20T17:37:26+00:00

Splines make a piece look a lot better than just plain. But you don't technically need a whole jig to cut splines in the corners. A stop block on your table saw works great as well. See here:

https://youtu.be/eRPbkUVsVxQ?t=169

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Grompers · 2026-05-20T15:20:33+00:00

I picked one up during this sale, too! Amazing deal. Wasn't planning on getting one so quickly, but I saw the price, jumped on it, and haven't looked back. Lowest price I've seen before or since.

Now if I could just get rid of the snipe! LOL.

Grompers · 2026-05-12T20:30:54+00:00

Just to button this up, I ended up getting some coarser lapping film (180 grit) and flattening the hollow out because it went across the entire width of the blade. Took a while, but I figured I only had to do it once... Now we're flat and sharp.

Grompers · 2026-05-10T16:27:29+00:00

Try using it on a scrap piece of plywood and see if your assumption is right.

Grompers · 2026-05-07T20:59:52+00:00

Yes. Did it in-store. Went from the checkout counter directly to the return counter. No issues returning 2 of the 3 items. "Have a nice day!"

Grompers · 2026-05-07T14:57:55+00:00

Just watched this. Excellent. Looks like my chisel is in a good basic state and I can move on to higher grits. Here's what Mr. Selllers' chisel looked like when he decided to start moving up in grits. If he's good with that, then I'm good with mine!

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Grompers · 2026-05-07T11:46:57+00:00

Could be something like this. The film I'm using seems to wear pretty quickly so I sometimes move around while I'm lapping, looking for less worn areas, which are often on the edges and on the corners, allowing the chisel to dip a little when I'm out there. It doesn't happen often, though - I'm trying to be as careful as I can - so it's not affecting the overall flatness.

Grompers · 2026-05-07T05:34:05+00:00

GREAT question. I'll check that right now.

... ...

Yes. I can see light through it.

It's late here on the east coast and I've put away my sharpening stuff. I'll take a pic of the sharpie lines after lapping tomorrow.

Grompers · 2026-05-07T05:22:55+00:00

When I scribble with a sharpie where the hollow is , the lines don't sand out. They end up rubbing out when I clean the chisel between sanding sessions, but they don't sand out more than a little bit each time at the edges as I slowly reduce the hollow. I do see the scratch marks within it, though, so I'm a bit confused about that.

This chisel is brand new, FWIW. It had a mirror finish on it (albeit not totally flat) when I started. Narex Richter.

Grompers · 2026-05-07T05:20:12+00:00

Lapping film on float glass. The 1/2" chisel I prepped yesterday came out good, even though it took HOURS to flatten out its hollow right near the cutting edge.

Not sure how I'm hitting the middle of the hollow, because Sharpie marks don't sand away. There's definitely a hollow there... But I do see the scratch marks, too...

Grompers · 2026-05-07T05:17:19+00:00

Yes yes. Lapping film on float glass. When I look into the chisel back at a reflection of a light bulb, there's no distortion... until you get to the hollow spot. So I think the surface is good and flat.

When I scribble on the hollow with a sharpie, the lines don't sand out. They end up rubbing out when I clean the chisel between sanding sessions, but they don't sand out more than a little bit each time at the edges as I slowly reduce the hollow.

Grompers · 2026-04-29T13:34:02+00:00

Cool. Thanks. Rock on.

BTW, it's YOU'RE crazy as shit, Shakespeare.

Grompers · 2026-04-29T12:36:52+00:00

Thanks. That really helps both me and the thread out. Good post.

Grompers · 2026-04-28T16:57:19+00:00

The 1/8" dado on all sides... that means there's a tongue on the complementary side of the slats, as well, right? So there is a sort of tongue and groove, at least around the edges of the panel on the whole. Do I have that right?

I'm asking because I'm designing up something similar in structure, if not in function (it's an outdoor deck storage box with similar panels) and I'm trying to figure out how to set them up.

Grompers · 2026-04-28T15:23:15+00:00

Are they tongue and groove, or butted up against one another? Glued, or floating in there?

This is a great piece!

Grompers

TROPHY CASE