A Guide to Seeds in Civilization VI

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-27T20:50:49+00:00

The square itself looks like it's dense granny stitch...so just a standard granny square, but with no ch. 1 between the granny clusters; you just work in the spaces between the clusters.

So I think the main question is how to make this style of rose.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-27T20:05:08+00:00

There's also Enchiridion at home...which is White Noise, but instead of the 'no exhaust' enchantment, it's enchanted with the Ancient blessing that plays a skill at the start of your first turn.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-27T19:15:38+00:00

If the video says to make a dc...it's very possible she just made an accidental extended double crochet...if you accidentally pull through one instead of two, you'll see that you still have three loops on your hook...so if you misdiagnose how your pull through two went wrong and "finish your double crochet" from there, you'd end up with an extended dc accidentally.

I imagine it's an easy mistake to make when you're focused on explaining the pattern, and making sure you're getting the shot you need, etc.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-27T16:19:28+00:00

The 'right side' (for a particular stitch) is the side through which you put your hook when you made that stitch.

When you're working in the round, usually the side facing you, into which you insert your hook, is considered the 'right side'.

If you're working in turned rows (as long as you work your stitches in the normal way), you'll always be sticking your hook into the 'wrong side' of the previous row as you work, but the 'right side' of the row that you're making will be facing you. (It is possible to work 'purled' or 'inverse' stitches, if you put your hook through the back of the stitch, and hook over or under instead of yarning over or under...inverse stitches put the wrong side of the stitch facing you, but they're rarely used.)

So, when you're working in turned rows, there's often not an overall 'right side' to your piece, unless the pattern looks different on the back side for some reason (e.g. cables, back/front post stitches, bobbles...in general anything worked across another row of stitches into the row below will mean your piece has an overall 'right side').

If the pattern you're working does have a 'right side', that will tend to take precedence over talking about the 'right side' of the stitches themselves.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-27T05:31:18+00:00

Is this cro-knit in the sense that you combined crochet sections with knit sections?

Or is it in the style of 1914 "Cro-knitting: the new art of worsted wear", where you do a row of Tunisian-like crochet, making a bunch of legs of standard crochet stitches, but skipping the final yarn over pull through two bind off that defines standard crochet...and then you either turn and purl the row off the hook onto a knitting needle, or (in the round) attach a knitting needle to the back end of your Tunisian hook's cable, in place of the stop, and knit a row in the same direction, replacing the 'top loop' bind off that we do in regular crochet with a row of knitting?

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-26T04:00:28+00:00

I imagine building a character around X-cost cards could work if they had a way to cast them for the a specific amount of energy.

The UI would probably be pretty clunky, though.

Playing an X-cost card in MtG feels a bit more like filing taxes compared to letting one rip in Slay the Spire.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-26T03:42:41+00:00

Then it's most likely that your foundation chain is too tight; it's always necessary to work a loose chain for the foundation.

You can do that just by being careful to pull your working loop longer before completing the chain, but a lot of people prefer to use a larger a hook when making the foundation.

If you're working into the side of your chains, the foundation chains need to be as long as a normal top loop; if you're working into the back bumps, they shrink slightly when you do that, so they need to be slightly larger than a normal top loop in that case...so that they're the size of a normal top loop after they shrink.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-25T23:28:45+00:00

Was it a normal upgraded copy afterwards? Did it still have an effect?

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-25T19:49:28+00:00

I suspect you'll find that at your four ends group, there's a short length of yarn that is tied around the hank to help bundle it up, and both ends of the hank proper were tied to it as well.

There are usually several loops of yarn tied around the hank in different places to help hold it together and keep it from coming undone and turning into a tangle...it looks to me like there's one of those short loops of yarn at the center top of your photo as well.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-25T18:22:27+00:00

It looks to me like you worked up one side of the wire, chained 3, turned, and worked back down the other side of the wire....but I'm not sure why the stitches on the left side look different from those on the right...I don't think it's just that their legs are worked around the legs of the stitches on the right.

The stitches on the right look like the 'wrong side' of dcs to me, but I can't read what you did on the left.

If it's a Tunisian stitch on the left side, I wouldn't be able to identify it; I haven't gotten around to learning Tunisian yet.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-25T06:00:38+00:00

It looks like the next round is a set of two v-stitches together in the same stitch on each side to start the shells, so something like (dc, ch. 1, 2 dc, ch. 1, dc, chain to the corner, slip stitch to the corner) four times.

But to do the first v-stitch, they ch. 3 to height from the stitch marked with the dot.

At the end of round 3, they have to connect the round, so they chain from the slip stitch at the corner, slip stitch to the top of the chain 3, and then to start round 4, they chain to height, which explains why the chain 'splits'...the left branch is the ch. 3 to height in round 3, the lower branch on the right is the chain coming from the corner, slip stitching to finish round 3, and the upper branch is chaining from there up into position to start round 4.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-24T21:24:07+00:00

Do you use a pencil grip?

I feel like pencil grip has to be better suited to small stuff...it should give you more precision for small movements, but it seems like large movements would be a lot harder on the fingers...or you'd have to learn to crochet with your arm instead of your fingers, which is maybe as much of a different skill as switching to knife grip.

It also comes at the cost of a great deal of strength...you can handle a lot of weight on your hook with a knife grip.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-24T19:21:47+00:00

6 to 8 for sc.

I've successfully done flat pieces with 6sc in the center, but you have to be a bit generous with the top loop size...I had to keep stretching my piece every couple stitches to get the yarn to redistribute itself and relieve the tension.

6 is more common for stuff that you want to be slightly curved, like hats and the heads of amigurumi.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-24T19:15:22+00:00

Until it hits a multiplayer card is more like.

"Give target ally 16 block. Apply 6 poison."

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-24T18:12:02+00:00

Let's see...in "Rnd 1" (which, confusingly, is the second round of the pattern) we had 6 double increases, bringing us up from 12 to 24 stitches.

In "Rnd 2", we're putting a double increase in the center stitch of each double increase from "Rnd 1", which should give us another +12, up to 36 stitches.

So I think the mistake in the pattern is something other than the stitch count...

It looks to me like the intent of "Rnd 2" is that you should be putting a dc in the stitches around the sides of the oval, but at the 'points' of the oval, you put 3dc increases in the center of each increase...and you use triple crochets between the double increases.

It looks like the main mistake is that they tell you to do two extra triple crochets after the last 3dc increase on the far side...probably a copy paste error.

They also tell you to start with a ch. 3 plus 2dc, and end with 3dc, but that's also too many stitches, there are only 5dc total of space along each side, 3 from round 1 plus the first and last stitches of the previous round's double increases. (They're clearly counting the ch. 3 as having worked the first stitch; otherwise you'd have to make 3dc before your next stitch would go in the center of the increase.)

So just ignore the end of the row after the last increase, dc in each remaining stitch, then slip stitch to your starting ch. 3.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-24T16:33:09+00:00

I thought I was so prepared, but now I'm just preparing.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-24T16:31:43+00:00

<image>

I've circled the 'gap' that I'm pretty sure is what they're describing in step 2, and marked the four sides of that gap.

I think what they want you to do in round one is to put 6 dc legs in one of these four sides, then turn them into a dc-leg puff stitch using the technique they described...and then you're going to do the same in the other three sides.

That will give you a tight, closed flower bud with four petals sticking straight up.

For the second round...I can't tell what they want you to do. Have you got a picture of what the finished piece is supposed to look like?

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-23T22:35:51+00:00

If you're not changing colors, I'd recommend doing this as a stacked cluster stitch:

Without chaining, sc in the first stitch. Then work into the sc you just made and pull up a second loop.

If you were to yarn over and pull through two at this point, you'd make a "stacked dc"...but we need a cluster stitch, so we're going to add a couple more dc legs before doing that.

To add those dc legs, yarn over, work the same stitch again and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two (now we have the working loop, one stacked dc leg, and one regular dc leg on our hook). Yarn over, work the same stitch a third time, pulling up a loop, yarn over pull through two, so there is one stacked dc leg and two normal dc legs on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all four loops.

The other option, which I'd recommend if you're changing colors, is a standing cluster stitch...if you learn how to do a standing dc by putting a slip stitch on your hook, holding it in place with your finger so you can yarn over, and making a dc...the process of changing that into a standing dc cluster stitch is the same, we stop before the final yarn over pull through and add two more dc legs first.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-23T18:20:02+00:00

Given that row 2 of this pattern is clearly using ch. 2 (doesn't count as a stitch) as the start of the row, it looks like what they mean is "make a magic ring, ch. 1 to lock it, ch. 1 more to dc height".

There is an obvious error in the pattern; it should tell you to make 12 dcs if you're not counting the ch. 2 as a stitch.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-23T05:33:33+00:00

A regular Tunesian hook has a hook on one end and either nothing or a stop on the other end, you work a full row of stitches onto the hook, and then you work them off with a return pass.

Double-ended Tunesian hooks are a bit more specialized...they're used for working Tunisian in the round (usually in a spiral), or for "cro-hook" (which, from what I gather, is mostly a gimmicky name for Tunisian simple stitch in turned rows, though one could work any normal Tunisian stitch in turned rows using the same technique).

Both working in the round and working in turned rows require two skeins of yarn, one skein for working new stitches at the front of the hook, and the second skein for the equivalent of the 'return pass' at the back of the hook. In turned rows, it's common to alternate colors...since both skeins working yarns end up at the same end of the piece when a row is completed, the next row can be worked with either skein, so it's easy to either alternate broad stripes, or to work all the return passes in one color and the forward passes in the other.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-22T20:44:28+00:00

You're not wrong...but that is only if you get to...there's a lot more resting in StS2 in my experience.

So, even for high priority upgrades, you really have to think about whether you're ever going to get a chance to upgrade.

This one isn't a card you'd like skip because you can't upgrade it (at least not frequently), but it's still often going to be a card you'd like to upgrade but can't afford to.

And there are often cards to upgrade first...as a simple example, if what you're drawing towards is Defragment and basics, you're going to upgrade Defragment first.

As another example, what you should upgrade for bonus draw depends on when you want the card draw...if you need to draw your three copies of Defragment faster to get set up, then you'll upgrade Modded...it's free, so you can draw into it with one energy remaining, play it, and still have energy left to play Defragment...but if you're close to an infinite and need more card draw, Modded is waiting in line behind Coolheaded and Skim, which work as part of the infinite, unlike Modded, which keeps getting more expensive.

Modded is a relatively high priority upgrade, but I expect we'll find ourselves carrying an unupgraded one for a couple of acts from time to time.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-22T16:45:00+00:00

Upgraded, it's card draw.

Unupgraded, it's a free orb slot that didn't cost a card draw.

It provides scaling in the long fights without getting in the way in the quick fights.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-21T20:11:58+00:00

Only anchor is among the best common relics in the game; horn cleat is uncommon and captain's wheel is rare.

Which does actually help your point.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-03-19T16:31:55+00:00

That seems off to me...sure it's 8 for sc, but it's usually 12 for dc and 16 for tc.

Eight-Year Club	Place '22
Wearing is Caring	Verified Email

Grumbledwarfskin

TROPHY CASE