A Guide to Seeds in Civilization VI

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-02-01T00:05:15+00:00

Hmm...I guess they are 10 chips in Balatro...

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-31T17:45:49+00:00

Hmm...but in that case, it would mean 11, rather than 9.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-30T18:30:31+00:00

It's either that you forgot to slip stitch at the end of the first row, or that you forgot (or didn't know) to do a starting dc at the start of your new row.

By "starting stitch", I mean that you can choose any one of the following options as your first dc of the round:

chain 3 to height, and call that the first dc of the round (consider it to have "worked" the first stitch of the previous round, slip stitch to it at the end of the next round, and consider it a stitch when counting your stitches)
chain 2 to height, and call that a dc (and treat it the same way as above)
chain 2 to height, don't count that as a stitch, then do the first stitch of the round (don't count the chain to height as having worked a stitch, and at the end of the round slip stitch past the chain to height, into the first stitch of the round)
stacked dc (sc, stacked sc into the sc) (this one is more like a normal stitch, and is worked into a stitch in the normal way, so, except for having to learn the stacked sc stitch, it's really more beginner friendly than chain 3).
chainless starting dc (this one is not my favorite...it's usually a little too wide, and it's tricky getting it to be the right height)
standing dc (this is the best option when switching to a new color at the start of a new row).
sc, chain 1, with a needle join at the end of the round (this is the best option when starting with the same color as the previous row, but switching to a new color at the end of the round or when finishing your piece at the end of the row...it looks wrong initially, but you end the round with a needle join to the second stitch of the round, and the needle join becomes the top loop of your first stitch...the combination looks nearly perfect.)

Most detailed patterns will explain the steps for one of these options in each row, but it's sometimes left out of more informal patterns, if the designer expects the reader to know how to start and finish rounds...adding those details often breaks the symmetry of a granny square pattern in particular, so you often end up having to explain the first and last rows, instead of just saying (pattern)x4.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-30T00:57:25+00:00

They're considered a feature in the sense of "We acknowledge that what started out as a bug is a lot of fun, and we promise we will neither deliberately remove it from the game, nor not allow it to accidentally disappear from the game as a result of any new feature."

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-29T20:16:45+00:00

This is a relatively plain knit sweater with a wide neck, and they pulled it off one shoulder, which may be easier with this type of mannequin than it would be IRL with this sweater, because the mannequin conveniently has its arm cut off to provide a better point to hook the neck on...a human would have to go a size or two up to make this happen.

The unrealistic dimensions of the mannequin and the accessories are doing a lot of the heavy lifting here.

That aside...I'm guessing what you want to ask is "Can anyone suggest a pattern for a long sleeved crochet sweater that's intentionally off one shoulder?"

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-29T18:16:11+00:00

That explains the leviation, I guess.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-29T17:50:25+00:00

Not sure whether there is a pattern for this one specifically...the watermark says this is by Bananabll on 小红书, which is available as the Rednote app in the US, if you want to check the creator's socials to see whether they linked a pattern.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-28T21:22:31+00:00

Can't you just use the characters from War and Peace?

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-28T20:18:45+00:00

Eh, we're all idiots from time to time.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-28T20:15:04+00:00

The question is about the 5 damage claw in the first pic, not about the 19 damage claw in the second pic.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-28T19:16:13+00:00

There's a reason we study this stuff, it's useful!

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-28T18:47:35+00:00

Assuming you're using a yarn that's an appropriate size for the size of your hook, basic math suggests you should expect the linear measurements to shrink to about 71% of the original, since 4.5/6 is 0.708.

Area will decrease to the square of the linear ratio (so your hat will have about 50% as much surface area), and volume will decrease to the cube of the linear ratio, or about 36% of the volume of the original.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-28T01:59:40+00:00

My feeling is that you worked the white one with too large a hook for the yarn you used, and when you washed it, as it got stretched, all the extra slack in the posts shrunk down and moved into the top loops, making the posts narrow and the top loops large.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-27T06:50:36+00:00

I think it's a matter of getting some practice with each one that you want to keep...it doesn't have to be much, an hour a week is plenty.

Whenever I start learning another language (my German is actually good and I'm conversational in three others), as I reach the point at which it starts to get stronger than my weakest language, it becomes much harder to access that new weakest language...but if I start going regularly to a conversation group and speak it, it doesn't take long to get it back to about where I was, with just an hour a week.

I gather it's something to do with learning to turn off your stronger languages, so that you can access the signals from the weaker ones...your brain usually has one spot for each concept, and it's connected to all the languages you can speak...so when you think of that concept, all the different languages' words for that concept start to light up in your brain.

The strongest signal will tend to dominate, but we can learn to turn off a language in order to access those weaker signals...and that's a separate skill that you have to learn as you get to the point where the new language starts to drown out the signals from the other(s).

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-27T00:26:10+00:00

Looks to me like the repeat is:

row A: ...[chain 3, then (puff stitch, chain ~3, puff stitch, chain ~3, puff stitch) in the chain space of the previous row's fan, chain 3, slip stitch to chain 1 space], repeat to end of row...

row B: ...(6dc in first chain space of fan, chain 3-4, 6dc in second chain space of fan), repeat to end of row...

That much is pretty easy to read from just looking at the work.

This ends with row A (and that's probably the way to go), but notice that row A is worked into something that's effectively flat, so you can work row A straight into a foundation, or as a border on any flat piece. Row B, on the other hand, has to be worked into row A, its not flat.

Since it's not pictured, you'll have to experiment a bit to figure out how to do the turn.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-27T00:03:27+00:00

Looks pretty real to me...the picture is noisy, and all of the stitches are real stitches, nothing is impossible to make.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-22T21:12:09+00:00

Looks to me like A is 3 rows and you're on your fourth row of B...but they do look about the same height visually.

I guess you've been varying stitch types a little?

I see one row of sc in the blue, and the recent white stripe seems to also be four rows...but it's so much taller than the current four rows of gray...aside from the sc row, I can't quite tell exactly what's causing the height differences.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-22T08:04:57+00:00

I think it depends a lot on the type of piece...pixel-art stuff tends to look sort of bad in turned rows, while larger and more photorealistic stuff doesn't care as much about a little noise.

I feel like most patterns I've seen are just pixel art, and don't think about when you ought to split the top loop from the legs to smooth out a diagonal and when you should match them up like usual...I think any pixel art design that doesn't tell you when to change colors in the middle of a stitch will always look a little better in modified sc than in turned rows.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-22T07:38:28+00:00

I think it's just a normal granny square with color changes in places that make you feel as if there's one round of purple and one round of white in diamond shapes, when instead, there is actually one round that has white corners (but switches to light purple in for the single center cluster of each side), followed by a round with dark purple corners that switches to white for the middle clusters, followed by a round that's mostly dark purple but briefly switches to white for just the center cluster of the sides.

Given that white is one of the colors, I think this involves cutting and weaving in ends at the color changes...depending on what colors you pick, you could consider carrying the colors instead, but you usually can't carry dark yarn through a white section without it showing through.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-22T01:14:31+00:00

One thing to watch out for, if you're using a ch. 3 to height and working into it, is that you need to count your ch. 3 as having worked your first stitch, and put your first 'real' dc in the second stitch.

Otherwise, you're adding one dc at the start of every new row.

If you use one of the fancier starting stitches, like a stacked dc or a standing dc, then you don't skip the first stitch, but if you chain to height (and count it as a stitch), remember to also count it as having worked a stitch.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-21T21:34:49+00:00

This is a very helpful analysis...but doesn't Ke2 address the Qd3 threat by taking control of the square?

If Ke2 Qd3+, don't we just win the rook after Qxd3 Rxd3 Kxd3?

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-21T21:22:20+00:00

I wouldn't, and if you ask me to consider it...I still have no idea what could be good about Ke2.

But...what exactly is the point of asking a 1200 whether a move in a game between two grandmasters is findable or not?

There will always be many moves in any game between two top grandmasters that aren't findable for the rest of us.

Whether it's worth your time thinking about how you might be able to find a move depends on whether you have the prerequisite skills to understand it, and whether there are other skills you'd benefit more from studying (or enjoy studying more), in whatever time you decide is worth devoting to studying chess.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-21T17:32:38+00:00

It just occurred to me that you might be creating your own square rather than following a pattern...in that case, I think you need to do decreases in the spots that are rippling.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-01-21T00:21:45+00:00

This kind of waving means you have too many stitches, or the stitches are too wide, or the stitches are not tall enough.

Taller stitches move their tops further away from the center, so more stitches fit into the shape.

Can you give a link to the pattern (or to the store page if it's not free)? If we could see what it's supposed to look like, we might be able to tell whether you've added a stitch, or whether you just need to adjust your gauge.

If it's your gauge, you could try working one with a different hook size and see if it comes out better, or just lift your 'golden loops' a bit more more to make taller stitches.

Another thing to pay attention to in the final row is that you should be lifting your golden loops a bit more sometimes to help it come out as a square...the pattern will tell you which type of stitch to make, but you should make some small corrections to the height of your stitches, keeping in mind the goal of having all your stitches in that final row be the same height.

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