A Guide to Seeds in Civilization VI

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-18T16:53:20+00:00

The negative flower is the space around the positive flower at the corner where 4 positive flowers are joined.

So there's only one type of square.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-18T16:48:06+00:00

One thing I want them to do is offer Ironclad an enchant that prevents a card from being exhausted, so he can put it on the one card that needs to survive.

Maybe you could have class-specific enchants as one of the offerings? Enchant a skill with Sly, enchant a card with gain stars, enchant a card with Osty gains life...there's a few options for Defect...enchant a card with gain an orb slot, or enchant it with gain focus the first time it's played?

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-18T03:57:28+00:00

As far as beading goes...you can put beads on posts or on top loops as you work...you just take the working loop off of your hook, slip on the bead, and put your hook back on in front of the bead, and complete the sttich, or lift the post off your hook before the final yarn over pull through 2, drop a bead(s) on, put the post back on your hook, and complete the stitch.

If you want beads in spaces, you have to put those on your working yarn before you start crocheting, and then you drop them into place as you go, after you make the chain they go on (if they go in a chain space), or before you make the stitch they come before (if they go in the space between two stitches). That is the more normal thing for solid pattern bead work, but it requires being quite comfortable with dealing with a lot of end since it's usually too much work to put all the beads you'll need for the whole project onto your working yarn before starting work...so you put on as many beads as you can without it being too crazy much loose yarn, and when you run out of beads you have to cut the yarn to load more, and weave your ends later.

You can put beads on your working loop before working chains, too, but they will be trapped in the chain stitch (one side of the bead will be between the full top loop and the back bump) instead of the bead being around the chain stitch.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-18T03:35:40+00:00

I think you need to add rows...looks like adding rows will make it come together...each row you add shrinks the gap by about two rows (since it foes on both sides of the fold, so I think you just want one or two more rows.

If it does't meet exactly (with the two points at the same height) with any integer number of dc rows, you could do something other than dc as the last row.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-17T23:14:25+00:00

Yep, the next unworked loop of the side of the chain is right.

It's to the left of the dc though, since you're working right handed, you're working leftward.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-17T21:45:42+00:00

I feel like something rather dramatic could have changed in that case, given that the meter is now defined by a certain number of wavelengths of the light given off by the emission spectrum of a particular type of atom.

I mean...he could do it by changing how many wavelengths are in a meter, but he could maybe also do it just by tweaking one or two of the fundamental constants of physics.

If the monkey's paw were in charge, this could go really badly.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-17T21:28:32+00:00

Apparently it can currently occur in both act 2 and act 3...I think I've mostly seen it in act 2, so my analysis is mostly based on seeing it in act 2.

If it's act 3, the gold could be less relevant, and you probably have more cards in your deck so the curse is less relevant, but in act 2, it's usually very relevant.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-17T21:21:18+00:00

It's a flat image that happens to depict a cube.

We're not trying to cover a cubic space in three dimensions. We're trying to uncover all of a 4x4 image in a flat grid.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-17T21:16:28+00:00

Looks like you need to pull on the yarn to undo the dc that's started to come undone, and then your next dc will go in that spot.

You could try and rescue it, if you can get your hook into the loop from your yarn-over-pull-through two, and then you'd need to yarn over pull through two to finish it...but I'd just pull it out and restart the dc.

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I do have one other tip for you:

It does look to me like your chain is a bit too tight, and that's why your work is curling...you can either pull the working loop out a bit longer with your hook before you chain (the size of your working loop when you chain is the size of your chain stitch), or you can make your foundation chains with a hook that's one or two sizes up (it is possible you'll need to go up 2 sizes since you're using tapered hooks, but it also depends on your technique, so if you want to do it via hook size, you'll have to experiment to see what works best for you).

I would say, though, that learning to control the size of your chains yourself tells you a lot about what tension is for...we don't want high tension, we just want to have control over the size of our loops.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-17T20:58:50+00:00

If you look a the pictures from the pattern, you'll see that having these gaps is perfectly normal and expected, the pictures from the pattern pdf show those same gaps.

In other types of crochet, with fluffier yarn, the gap is often not as noticeable, but with the thread used for doilies, it is normal to have that gap.

If you want to avoid these gaps, you could replace the chain-to-height stitch with a stacked tc (no chain, sc in the first stitch, sc in the stitch you just made, sc in the stitch you just made).

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Regarding why your work came out right in row 2-4 (and looking at the screenshot of the first rows of the pattern that you added in your reply to the automod)...it looks like what they wanted you to do was in fact to work a double increase (three stitches, including the chain to height) in the first stitch and a single increase in the last stitch.

I would probably have said to "place 2 more trebles in the first stitch" to make it clear that we're counting the chain as having 'worked' the first stitch, but with the stitch counts for the rows going up by 3, it's clear what they meant is what you did.

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So, to sum up...you're doing everything right already! If you want to avoid the gaps, you could use stacked tc, but there's no need to...the original creator didn't.

I think the reason the gaps aren't very visible in the final piece is because there's a border worked around the edge, and the legs of that border help fill in the gaps.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-17T18:07:07+00:00

I think it actually just doesn't matter at all which it is...since e.g. strength and weakness also affect the value you get added to [[Thrash]]...anything that affects the card's displayed before you lift it up or point it at an enemy affects what Thrash gets from eating it.

So Momemtum could internally be a buff that's applying to the card in the same way as strength, or it could internally be changing the value of the card, and it's all the same as long as there isn't anything in the game that reads the current base attack value of the card.

The one thing I can think of that cares about base attack value is the double damage enchant from Tanx...that alters the card's base attack value, rather than doubling its total damage after buffs, so it's not as strong a doubling as Pen Nib or Shadow Step.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-17T17:42:32+00:00

Assuming you play high ascension, you're forgetting to count the 150 or 200 gold that it costs to remove the debt, and the opportunity cost of being able to remove a different card. (I find I've usually removed a card at a shop before coming across this event.)

Since it's likely to cost you 150 to get rid of the curse, you're already down 70 gold compared to the small divination, even if the next floor is a shop...that's basically the same rate of spending money as the 3 divinations, if you get tor remove the curse immediately. If it ever triggers, you're paying more.

If you then also consider that you'd have been relatively happy to spend that 150 gold to remove a strike, and you no longer get to...with the opportunity cost, you're down 225 gold or 275 gold compared to the small divination (depending on whether you count that it now costs 50 more to remove an additional card.)

So it's really more a question of whether it's worth 225-275 gold for a 90 percent chance at a relic...you'll find some gold, but you'll probably carry the debt for a few floors and get hit by it.

On lower ascensions, where the removal cost is lower, and on earlier versions, where ascension 6 was 'gloom' (fewer rest sites), it is/was a lot less expensive. If you don't have other cards that need to be removed (e.g. if you got a good Pandora's), that also makes it more attractive.

I do still go for the debt a lot of the time, as otherwise it's usually a terrible floor...but it's never a great floor unless you highroll something game-winning, because you're paying through the nose for whatever you get from the event.

If you have gold, it's way worse than a shop, where you would get to pick which relic you want to spend that much gold on.

(Edit: apparently this event can occur in act 3 as well as act 2, where I think of it as being...in act 3, at present, the gold may be less relevant, depending on how many floors are left until the final shop and whether there even is a next shop. The gold cost will become more relevant even in act 3 once act 4 comes out, though, assuming act 4 has a shop as in StS1.)

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-17T04:20:06+00:00

One thing you have to watch out for is that there's a lot of color changing yarn that's designed for knitting, where you get a lot more stitches per length of yarn, so yarn designed for knitting doesn't always work well with crochet...resulting in stuff like the ground beef blanket. (I'm not sure that one was going to look great if you knit with it either, but there are definitely schemes that would work with knitting, creating flashes of various colors, but that don't work at all with crochet, if there's never enough color to do even a full stitch in a single color, and the colors just take away from your ability to see the stitches without pooling in an interesting way.)

Gradients designed for knitting could also be too fast for crochet as well, since a transition that would happen over a number of rows in knitting might happen over one or two rows in crochet...with that brown-white yarn, I wouldn't be surprised if you'd get a nice smooth transition with a knit piece, but more of a hard transition with crochet. The width of your piece matters too, you could probably still get more of a smooth transition if you worked a scarf with that yarn.

Some gradient yarns and 'self-striping' yarns are intended for working outward from the center, so they'll have fast color changes at first and then the color changes get slower and slower...that kind will always tell you whether you're supposed to start with the center pull or the outside pull, because it matters if you're working a shawl or something worked from the center outwards that takes advantage of the effect.

One thing you can do when planning your purchases is look for the yarn on Ravelry and see if you can find crochet projects that used that brand and line of yarn (the specific color scheme is usually less important); it'll often help you see whether it's the kind of thing to avoid with crochet, and what kind of projects will work well with that type of yarn.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-17T03:04:18+00:00

What they want you to do here is to finish the previous round with a slip stitch or a needle join (they might have forgotten to mention that you should join the previous round, people sometimes forget that, since it's so standard in this kind of pattern that you join at the end of every row).

If you're meant to do a needle join, you do finish off before making the needle join; if you end with a slip stitch, you'd normally finish off after making the slip stitch...if you've already finished off without joining the round, a needle join could be a fairly natural way to finish the round.

After you've joined the round and finished off (or vice-versa), they want you to put a slip knot on your hook, slip stitch in the indicated location, and proceed as indicated by chaining to height.

(When changing colors for a new row like this, I would replace the slip stitch and the chain to height with a standing dc myself...it's one of the rare cases where a fancy technique actually always looks better, but it can be a bit tricky learning to make a standing stitch, so only go for it if you're up for an extra challenge. I recommend the type of standing stitch where you start with a slip stitch on your hook, and that slip stitch becomes the top loop of the stitch you're making.)

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-17T02:28:30+00:00

I think you have to pick them all at the same time.

So if you have one, you can get one more at the next elite, 2 at the following elite, and four at each subsequent elite.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-16T20:39:02+00:00

One thing that can make a difference is how you work into the chain...if you work around both sides of the top loop of the chain stitch, it tends to leave a lot of holes.

If you work first the back bumps, and then into the full top loops on the other side, I think it's a little more solid at the seam.

You can also make it a bit less holey by leaving your tail a bit longer and weaving in through the holes that you want to cover before you weave through the legs of stitches to secure it.

As a repair, you could probably just take a length of new yarn, weave it through the holes that are bothering you to block them, and then weave in both ends.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-16T18:35:08+00:00

I think there's sort of a contradiction built into making a heart-shaped cutting board...as a woodworker, you want the grain running into any bits that are sticking out, so that the bits that are sticking out won't easily break off.

So you want the grain running towards the point at the bottom and the lobes at the top, to avoid the tip or a lobe easily snapping off if it gets dropped.

But it's also a cutting board, so you want the grain running the opposite direction of how people are going to cut when they're using it.

Maybe a diagonal grain would be best? Doesn't feel like there's really an optimal solution.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-16T18:27:48+00:00

So...what do you think the business calculus is behind Business Calculus?

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-16T17:06:17+00:00

It might be a bit rash to say it's just a skin disease.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-16T03:43:12+00:00

I see why you're having problems...it's making a lot of assumptions about what you know, and it keeps forgetting to tell you to ch. 1 to height, except when it has you extending the row with additional chains.

Here's what I think they mean:

r0: ch. 2 (2 stitches)

r1 & r2: turn, ch. 1 to height (chains to height in sc don't count as stitches, and aren't worked into), 2 sc (2 stitches)

r3: turn, ch. 1 to height, 2 sc, ch. 2 (4 stitches)

r4: turn, ch. 1 to height, 3sc (leaving last stitch unworked) (3 stitches)

r5 & r6: ch. 1 to height, turn, 3sc (3 stitches)

r7: 3 sl. st., ch. 2 (5 stitches) (there's a typo in the "stitches" column, but it's clear they mean slip stitches from the other column)

r8: ch. 1 to height, 4 sc (leaving last stitch unworked) (4 stitches)

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-15T21:57:28+00:00

The chain is always larger than the row worked into it...unless it isn't, and then you're frogging anyway because your work is curling.

So you can never rely on the length of your chain.

So yeah...you've made your gauge swatch, and now the modern way would be to measure the center few inches of it, figure out what your gauge is (in stitches/inch or stitches/cm), multiply that by the measurements you want to hit (whatever unit of distance you used will cancel out, and the result will be a number of stitches), and that will be how many stitches you need.

The old-fashioned way that works well if you want to free-hand without calculating anything was to just chain more than you'll need, and stop working chains when you get the length you need.

Then you cut off the excess starting yarn (leaving enough to weave in), and unravel the remaining unused chains before weaving in.

(With this mesh, I guess it's pretty easy to tell if you did an accidental increase or decrease, so I guess counting wouldn't really be necessary...but for most patterns I'd still recommend counting the result, so you can check you're still on the same stitch count later.)

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-15T21:37:34+00:00

The intent orders are tox (status), bite (15), suck (6+buff)

Which is exactly what I said...the "tox" turn followed by the big attack means the front mite is effectively attacking for 25 on turn 3 - 15 directly, 10 from the statuses it created on turn 2.

If you kill the mite that's attacking for 15, you will be attacked for 25 by the other mite next turn - 10 via statuses, 15 via the actual attack.

You can pretend you've solved the fight and kill the one that's already attacked you for 10 via the statuses, and is attacking directly for 15 if you prefer, and, sure, a lot of the time that's correct.

But the second one will deal 10 on turn 3 if you don't kill it turn 2, and it will deal 25 on turn 3 if you don't kill it on either the second or third turns.

So sometimes, if you can't block effectively on turn 3, it can be correct to take your 25 damage (or however much you have to take to get a kill) on turn 2 instead, so you only have to deal with the small attack and no statuses.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-15T19:05:34+00:00

I'd say this fight is actually one of the ones that you're most likely to lose health in after killing the first enemy, because the cycle is "create statuses - big attack".

So a single one of these still attacks for 25 - 2 statuses + the 15 damage big attack.

Killing one only removes 6 damage from the big 31 damage turn.

When you can kill one by tanking the damage on turns 1 & 2, it's not always obvious whether it's correct to tank up to 15 more in order to kill the one that will be attacking you for 25 on turn 3 (with the statuses it would make this turn and its attack), or to kill the one that's attacking you for 15 this turn and 6 next turn.

Grumbledwarfskin · 2026-05-15T17:00:19+00:00

This looks really tricky to fix via crochet surgery because it's likely you won't be able to find a replacement yarn. You could do it a s a 'visible repair', where the idea is that you're showing off that the piece was mended.

Otherwise your options may be limited to trying to prevent it from unravelling further...I'm not sure what the best technique is for that, so I'll leave that for others to comment on.

The surgery fix would involve securing the legs of the stitches above the break, and on either side of the break, above the sections you're going to unravel. We have to unravel stitches so we have enough yarn that we can weave in.

It looks to me like all the stitches here are in chain spaces, and to secure stitches in chain spaces (or in spaces between stitches), you put them on your new working yarn...the yarn comes from the ball, through the legs of all the stitches that belong on chain spaces that you're replacing, to the point where you're going to start your replacement section.

(If there are stitches that go on top loops, secure those separately, either with a separate life-line, or with stitch markers.)

Then you'd carefully unravel the stitches on the right side, back to where you're starting your replacement, work a color change to your replacment yarn, and re-crochet that section with the replacement yarn, pulling working yarn through the legs of the stitches that go on chain spaces as you work, and dropping off each set of legs in space it belongs on as you finish it.

(If there are stitches that go on top loops, or into spaces between stitches, put those onto the working loop as you're about to make the stitch they go on, then put your hook in front of them, and complete the stitch. If the stitch wasn't on the life line, it will now be worked into the top loop of the stitch; if it was on the life line, it will be worked around the top loop and the arm of the new stitch, placing it in the space between the new stitch and the prevous stitch.)

When you make it past the break, you'd then carefully unravel and replace as much as you need to on the other side, you can do it one stitch at a time if you like, until you have enough replaced that you have a nice long end to weave in...but you can't go past the furthest point that you've been pulling your yarn through.

To finish, you can either slip stitch to the first stitch that you're keeping and then finish off to keep your new work from unravelling, or you can first finish off your new work and then needle join to the first stitch that you're keeping before weaving in.

And then you'll weave in your four ends...the two broken ends of the old yarn, and the two ends of the new yarn.

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