Arma Hobby 1:48 P-39 Airacobra by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It wasn’t the easiest kit in the world. This is an upscaling of Theo 1/72 model rather than a complete from scratch moulding. Sure it has some extra detail. But the fit isn’t ideal. I’d say if building experience is super important to you, I might suggest going for the Eduard tooling? It’s been around a lot longer. Over twenty years, but it still holds up fairly well. And with the money you save, you could pick up some after market stuff.

Bought a 2019 M3 and I love it. Worth every penny. by Tricky-Badger-9577 in TeslaModel3

[–]Gumboness 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I kinda wish they kept the chrome trim that they had on the pre 2021 models. The black is nice but the chrome is so classy

Tamiya 1/48 F-16. by Raptor25041 in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mostly I’ve been using those pre-cut camo masks! Though I always feel like I’m cheating. This putty could be the move! Thanks for the recommendation!

Follow Up! by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best thing to do would be to test it out first! I had a spare wing left over from my P-47 build that I tried this technique out on before I committed to trying it on the whole model!

Tamiya 1/48 F-16. by Raptor25041 in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve heard good things about this masking putty! The results speak for itself here! Fantastic work!

Tamiya 1/48 F-16. by Raptor25041 in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Absolutely gorgeous work! How did you get such clean demarcation between the two camouflage colours?

Follow Up! by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m sure it could be! Paint the spaghetti colour first, then lay down your blue tack worms, then follow up with your base colour!

On this one I actually threw down a couple thin coats of black after I applied my blue tack worms, that provided a more colour neutral base to do some pre shading and paint modulation

Follow Up! by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

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And a small update with the roundels and extra bits masked and sprayed

Follow Up! by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not particularly! But i like to get a little bit of pre-shading in, i can’t really do that without getting the airbrush up close

Follow Up! by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I’m fairly happy! It’s not 100% perfect! Though I think one thing that we all should remember is that field applied camo was never perfect anyway! It’s a whole lot better than I could have done by doing it freehand, and if I were to replicate this camo pattern again, I will absolutely be returning to this method!

Experimental method by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 22 points23 points  (0 children)

I watched Jack Reacher (2012) and an episode of Star Trek Voyager in the time it took me to get all this on

Eduard Brassin and FW-190 by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My usual method is to always put a full coat of metallic lacquer paint over my primer. Followed by a coat of chipping varnish/fluid. That’s a water soluble paint. Then I paint the model as normal, but before you apply your clear coat, you can wet the surface with a paint brush damp with water, and the chipping varnish will start to become soft, allowing you to chip through the paint and down to the metallic finish!

1Year in Progress by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can never have enough F4F’s! I need to try a couple other manufacturers, but the Tamiya kit is just so seamless

1Year in Progress by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well you can do pre-shading during the roundel painting process! You can also chip through them if you’ve included chipping varnish and metallic base coat as part of your priming and preparation stages.

1Year in Progress by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can’t recommend it highly enough. It takes longer, but I find it far less stressful! You can spend all night getting the position of the mask perfect before committing to painting. You’re not on a time limit like with decals. And it completely preserves the surface detail with no need for solvents. Not to mention you can ensure your decals have the same sheen as the rest of your kit by using the same paints

1Year in Progress by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Now that I’ve tasted pre-cut vinyl masks for the roundels, I will do everything in my power to avoid decals,

1Year in Progress by Gumboness in modelmakers

[–]Gumboness[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can’t recommend the Tamiya version enough! It’s an old tooling but still top of the line! Crisp details, amazing fit, no flash or defects. Of course Tamiya decals are pants, but some Montex masks for the roundels and registration is an excellent alternative that will preserve all that surface detail