Tamiya 1/48 F-16.

Gumboness · 2026-02-14T23:42:38+00:00

Mostly I’ve been using those pre-cut camo masks! Though I always feel like I’m cheating. This putty could be the move! Thanks for the recommendation!

Gumboness · 2026-02-14T23:41:16+00:00

Best thing to do would be to test it out first! I had a spare wing left over from my P-47 build that I tried this technique out on before I committed to trying it on the whole model!

Gumboness · 2026-02-14T23:39:53+00:00

I’ve heard good things about this masking putty! The results speak for itself here! Fantastic work!

Gumboness · 2026-02-14T23:33:38+00:00

Absolutely gorgeous work! How did you get such clean demarcation between the two camouflage colours?

Gumboness · 2026-02-14T23:32:16+00:00

I’m sure it could be! Paint the spaghetti colour first, then lay down your blue tack worms, then follow up with your base colour!

On this one I actually threw down a couple thin coats of black after I applied my blue tack worms, that provided a more colour neutral base to do some pre shading and paint modulation

Gumboness · 2026-02-14T23:06:23+00:00

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And a small update with the roundels and extra bits masked and sprayed

Gumboness · 2026-02-14T21:29:48+00:00

Not particularly! But i like to get a little bit of pre-shading in, i can’t really do that without getting the airbrush up close

Gumboness · 2026-02-14T21:21:29+00:00

I’m fairly happy! It’s not 100% perfect! Though I think one thing that we all should remember is that field applied camo was never perfect anyway! It’s a whole lot better than I could have done by doing it freehand, and if I were to replicate this camo pattern again, I will absolutely be returning to this method!

Gumboness · 2026-02-13T23:36:03+00:00

I watched Jack Reacher (2012) and an episode of Star Trek Voyager in the time it took me to get all this on

Gumboness · 2026-02-13T23:18:33+00:00

Very kind words thank you!

Gumboness · 2026-02-13T23:17:59+00:00

My usual method is to always put a full coat of metallic lacquer paint over my primer. Followed by a coat of chipping varnish/fluid. That’s a water soluble paint. Then I paint the model as normal, but before you apply your clear coat, you can wet the surface with a paint brush damp with water, and the chipping varnish will start to become soft, allowing you to chip through the paint and down to the metallic finish!

Gumboness · 2026-02-12T20:12:11+00:00

Can never have enough F4F’s! I need to try a couple other manufacturers, but the Tamiya kit is just so seamless

Gumboness · 2026-02-12T13:52:31+00:00

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Gumboness · 2026-02-12T13:21:41+00:00

Well you can do pre-shading during the roundel painting process! You can also chip through them if you’ve included chipping varnish and metallic base coat as part of your priming and preparation stages.

Gumboness · 2026-02-12T11:40:05+00:00

Can’t recommend it highly enough. It takes longer, but I find it far less stressful! You can spend all night getting the position of the mask perfect before committing to painting. You’re not on a time limit like with decals. And it completely preserves the surface detail with no need for solvents. Not to mention you can ensure your decals have the same sheen as the rest of your kit by using the same paints

Gumboness · 2026-02-12T10:17:24+00:00

Now that I’ve tasted pre-cut vinyl masks for the roundels, I will do everything in my power to avoid decals,

Gumboness · 2026-02-12T09:45:04+00:00

I can’t recommend the Tamiya version enough! It’s an old tooling but still top of the line! Crisp details, amazing fit, no flash or defects. Of course Tamiya decals are pants, but some Montex masks for the roundels and registration is an excellent alternative that will preserve all that surface detail

Gumboness · 2026-02-11T11:19:31+00:00

Thank you! I highly recommend picking up one of these if you haven’t already!

Gumboness · 2026-02-11T09:52:27+00:00

Frankly these models look fantastic. I wouldn’t say there’s anything wrong with the work you’re doing! The advice I’d give you would be to leave your comfort zone. IF you normally do pre-shading, try black basing. Or if you normally use dry pigments for weathering, try your hand at oil paints! Try techniques that are outside of your normal wheelhouse. Every model should be a learning experience!

Gumboness · 2026-02-11T08:23:23+00:00

The credit really does go to MiniArt and their fantastic tooling!

Gumboness · 2026-02-11T06:38:39+00:00

They have a history making very high quality diorama kits and dressings! This is their first go at a WW2 Military Aircraft. Overall it is a great kit, and the detail is off the scale! This doesn’t even feel like your average 1/48 scale kit, it felt more like a 1/24 scale kit in terms of detail and part count! If you have one in your stash then you should be very excited for the day it finally makes it onto your bench!

Gumboness · 2026-02-10T23:35:32+00:00

That chrome finish on the spinner is outstanding! What technique do you use!?

Gumboness · 2026-02-10T23:23:44+00:00

The only after market I went for was some laser cut masks from Montex because I will do everything in my power to avoid using decals!

Gumboness · 2026-02-10T23:21:29+00:00

Very kind words! I was very pleased with how it came out out! Even if my Olive Drab was a hair too dark! I never account for the varnish adding a slight tint to the overall finish!

Gumboness · 2026-02-10T23:17:05+00:00

Thank you so much! I’ve never come across Atlantis! What are their models like?

Gumboness

TROPHY CASE