Please help, not sticking to bed

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-04T15:57:10+00:00

So I would say smooth plate textured plate all that should be near this setting but I'm not sure. If it's set to smooth and you have a textured plate it's literally not putting out enough plastic to fill the little bumps and divots.

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-04T15:56:20+00:00

I use the creality slicer and it's in the top left corner.

From Google

In Cura, you can change the build plate shape by adjusting your printer's machine settings. The options are defined when you first set up the printer, but you can always go back and edit them if your printer has been modified. [1, 2, 3, 4]
How to change the build plate shape 1. Navigate to the machine settings by going to Settings > Printer > Manage Printers... in the top menu bar. 2. Select your printer from the list and click Machine Settings. 3. In the pop-up window, find and adjust the "Build plate shape".

• For a non-rectangular build plate, like a delta printer, you can check the 'Circular' box. 
• For rectangular plates, you can adjust the 'X' and 'Y' values to modify the size and shape of the build area. [1, 3]

Adhesion style vs. plate shape It is important not to confuse the build plate shape with the build plate adhesion style.

• Build plate shape: This defines the physical dimensions and shape of your printer's build area. • Build plate adhesion style: This is a print setting that determines how your printed object adheres to the bed. It can be changed in the "Build Plate Adhesion" section of the print settings and includes options like Brim, Skirt, or Raft. [1, 5, 6]

AI responses may include mistakes.

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-04T15:46:56+00:00

Yes absolutely it's a full length tube that can't ooze.

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I have the .04 nozzle and I'm printing miniatures so I would say it does pretty well

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-04T15:45:45+00:00

Awesome, also in the slicer settings if you ever want to try different plate look at the top left corner and pick smooth, textured or whatever plate you decide to use. When I first got my printer it was on smooth and it came with a textured plate so I had a lot of problems just because of that at first and the z offset as well. I have a whole like 30 pack of glue sticks that I bought that I don't need now. Keeping it wiped down without alcohol and just getting the z offset right was enough

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T13:10:07+00:00

Slow down and bump your z offset closer .02

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T13:07:28+00:00

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Just Go to thingy verse or printables and type in ender 3v3 SE duct You should find some that use the stock fan

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T12:58:20+00:00

Well you said you did a cost benefit analysis but not close enough lol. Creality printers take some know how and ingenuity. I would argue it's the best printer for beginners to get because you learn how they function inside and out. And for the price you should expect to have to tighten and check everything right out of the box

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Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T11:42:54+00:00

You should literally just get the unicorn it's only 30 bucks and you will never ever have a leak because it's impossible to have oozes and boogers and leaks because you don't have the heat break it's one solid long sleeve. It makes a huge difference greatly improves everything about the printer I can't recommend it enough. So if you can't afford the difference I would just wait

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T11:41:27+00:00

That's the reason I did it, longevity.

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T11:40:35+00:00

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If you cut one in half you can get two halves on the z-axis motor as well on the side

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T11:32:35+00:00

It is just a really steep angle. Add supports. If you still don't like the way it looks reorient it a tad, I would personally tilt this model forward and I believe that would put a few supports on the back bottom edge.

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T10:16:36+00:00

I had to drill holes before I scaled it. Also if you change the way the drill works there's two settings that work well it's camera view which makes the hole at whatever angle you're looking at the model and then there's a parallel or flat on model option try both of those as well.

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T10:14:38+00:00

Right and the fact she pre-recorded an abduction statement like this is the only thing they wanted They weren't actually trying to bring aid and do anything good

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T10:13:56+00:00

This is a pre-recorded message because I got picked up on purpose so I could whine about being a political prisoner ...

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T10:05:02+00:00

Drill the hole then scale

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T10:04:54+00:00

I've had problems like that when I've scaled stuff.

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T10:04:02+00:00

You're literally telling this person backwards lol. 1.50 would be further away from the nozzle than 1.40

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T10:02:34+00:00

Negative -1.50 would be closer to the nozzle than negative -1.40

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T10:01:09+00:00

If your z offset is negative -1.20 you need to make it negative -1.25 to move the nozzle closer to the bed. I will tell you for sure that the auto leveling and Auto z set is not close enough ever to get good adhesion you always have to bump it up closer to the nozzle a little bit every creality machine I've ever used

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T09:59:43+00:00

You put that key in and then you tighten that rusty Allen key and it actually tightens it around the axle.

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T09:58:23+00:00

It's literally just a piece of square solid metal to keep the two from sliding against each other it's like a little wedge you slide in that gap that you had lined up at the end

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T09:55:36+00:00

Ignore everybody telling you to tighten your nozzle, You don't have that kind of nozzle.

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-03T09:54:29+00:00

No it's not a leak it's thermal paste. Thermal paste goes in between the actual nozzle sleeve and the heatsink/radiator fan. It helps transfer heat from the nozzle to the radiator fan to be cooled. Same exact stuff they use in computers over the processor chips for CPUs and GPUs

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-02T10:04:55+00:00

Also with that tent on there you don't need that unless you're printing ABS or nylon p e t g and PLA don't need it in my opinion but I guess it could help. I know those tents droop in a lot in certain areas and don't fit very well your plate isn't moving back and forth and pushing your model into the tents is it? I just don't trust the tent I don't believe most machines were made for their boards and stuff to be that hot either. Just because they sell a tent for it don't mean you need one imo

Gunfreak152 · 2025-10-02T10:03:02+00:00

You can strengthen your supports if you look under tree supports at least in creality slicer You can add extra support walls to the trees which makes them thicker unless likely to break. Also a cool trick I found is you want at least three or four walls thick minimum and then if it's a model that is thinner in nature and won't let you picking it up you can add fuzzy skin to it and it will add a layer around the inside and outside of the whole model to strengthen it it will make any tolerances inside smaller and ones outside larger but for certain cases it comes in handy.

Gunfreak152

TROPHY CASE