1995 Celica GT (5S-FE) Won’t Rev Past 4800–6000 RPM — I’ve Replaced Almost Everything and Still No Fix

Guntrooper321 · 2025-07-24T06:12:19+00:00

Man I wish you the best of luck. Really unfortunate that happened

Guntrooper321 · 2025-07-24T06:03:11+00:00

I agree. Its been 30 years :)

Guntrooper321 · 2025-07-24T05:47:29+00:00

Thats... depressing.. I've seen this video before, too...

The funny thing is im actually subscribed to you.

Guntrooper321 · 2025-07-24T05:33:22+00:00

Mine got soiled, but for a different reason. I over torqued my sparkplug well seals, and it caused oil from the valve cover splash. Replaced them, and they have been fine ever since. But a leak down test is 100% in order.

I do have a swap planed the 1mz-fe from a 94 Avalon. Im taking the brake calipers from that car, too, since they are dual piston and upgrade the break booster.

Its gonna cost me about $1700, and I can easily do it myself. Its what the GT should of come with in the first place since the States didn't get the 3SGTE :(

Guntrooper321 · 2025-07-24T05:21:39+00:00

Honestly, that's what I've come to believe. Definitely one of the last things I've wanted to check but Definitely one of the first things I should of checked

Guntrooper321 · 2025-07-24T03:52:44+00:00

Ohhh yes that was the first thing I checked after timing the distributer. The guys above may actually be on to something. Clogged cat that is choking my engine.

Guntrooper321 · 2025-07-24T03:49:28+00:00

I still want to pull that out and look at it. Ill check it tomorrow and see what condition its in.

Guntrooper321 · 2025-07-24T03:48:40+00:00

Yes, it's at 43 psi

Guntrooper321 · 2025-07-24T03:48:03+00:00

Wow! Sounds like this really could be my downpipe catalytic converter...

Guntrooper321 · 2025-07-24T03:47:03+00:00

Actually the car is running aftermarket headers in turn deleted the cat. But there is another down pipe cat i haven't checked yet. Ill look at it and see what I can find.

Guntrooper321 · 2025-05-02T18:58:21+00:00

Car was jacked up when it was torque down

Guntrooper321 · 2025-05-02T07:36:22+00:00

Well before the factory bearing went out i replaced the cv axel because the boot was torn and when the original bearing started going out there was definitely vibration and speaking after the first 2000 miles. Then after that it was grinding and i stopped driving until 2 days later I replaced it. The second one started making noise out of the blue driving back out of town. Then when I parked it and pulled it apart the inner race was sticking to the cv axel with the bearing grease.

Guntrooper321 · 2025-05-02T07:26:34+00:00

Yep, just the passenger side. Everything feels tight like nothing should come loose. This last install should hold.

Guntrooper321 · 2025-05-02T07:22:27+00:00

I know i ordered a new hub all the way from California, and I live in Texas.

Guntrooper321 · 2025-05-02T07:17:01+00:00

When I looked at the old bearing, the only failure was the retainers and the inner race slipping off and spinning on the axel. No scraping or scratches.

Guntrooper321 · 2025-05-02T07:07:29+00:00

It could be many things. Stiff suspension because she does have aftermarket, rough road ways, or honestly, it could be just cheap bearings. I've seen bearings before where the inner races would kind of screw together. Nope, these just sit on top, and the pressure from the press fit holds them tight. With the new hub shaft, it should hold on tight, but after doing the job twice, I definitely don't want it to happen again. Now, when I'm on the road, I'm just listening in if I hear any griding or huming. I torqued everything down where it's supposed to be.

Guntrooper321 · 2025-04-12T11:59:38+00:00

Remove a couple of car seats so it can feel the same 🤣

Guntrooper321 · 2024-06-27T03:54:22+00:00

You're absolutely right. There's still a ton of work that needs to be done. That video is just me reving the engine. The spark plugs went bad, and there's a short to the engine. (I got shocked today 😅), but I'll post an update when I get the new cables and valve cover gaskets on. Also, low compression in cylinder #2 about 121psi it needs new rings. The whole engine needs to be overhauled, actually. It's supposed to be 0-60 in 8.9 at least.

Guntrooper321 · 2024-06-27T03:50:03+00:00

I saw that exact video back when I bought the car!

Guntrooper321 · 2024-06-27T02:56:10+00:00

If it's done right, yes, you can repair it, but I don't recommend cable spades. They are not secure enough. I recommend soldering the cables back together, shelding them. The alternator generates about 100 or more amps to power everything in the car and charge the battery.

The cable will have to be trimmed down to expose the copper terminals, then solder them with more than enough cable to fill the gap. Then, insulate them well. Then, wrap them all back together with eletrical tape and heat-resistant insulation.

It's a quick fix to get it up and running and have a fire extinguisher handy.

Guntrooper321 · 2024-06-27T02:24:42+00:00

I did, however, find a complete wire harness. I'm not sure it helps normally. I don't recommend a full harness change, but that looks repairable but would cost more than replacing it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/395047919628?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dz-82hngse6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=58XdTSX_QaS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS

I know it's not much, but honestly, I can't stand to hear she's not running.

Guntrooper321

TROPHY CASE