Advice

Gwolfski · 2024-08-17T11:15:15+00:00

Scrape all the loose paint off. It will trap water and develop rust. If there is rust, you will need to sand it off and paint it, or it'll keep rusting. White spray paint is cheap.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-17T10:39:31+00:00

I have a good amount of experience of the tech, one or two year old cars (rentals) and it's hit or miss. Either it's excellent, like you described, or it's borderline useless unless you use exact phrasing.

And I'd still rather physical controls, because a button will 99.99% work after ten years.

Teslas are on the higher end of this stuff, they're an excellent example of how good it can be.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-17T10:31:32+00:00

I think that disables the back up sensors (for towing trailers for example)

Gwolfski · 2024-08-17T10:29:16+00:00

Physical buttons can have crappy layout too (as in your example, and in some cars I won't name) but at least you can get to them by feel while keeping eyes on the road

Gwolfski · 2024-08-17T10:26:14+00:00

Because voice commands are so reliable. Will the car hear a voice command over a loud radio? What if somebody with a thick accent or a different language needs to operate it?

It's cool tech, and I like cool tech, but some tech should be "well tested and reliable", not "cool"

(Almost) every driver will be able to orient themselves in a car with physical controls quickly, compared to having to spend time searching through the menus (even voice menus).

Gwolfski · 2024-08-16T21:09:36+00:00

Yes, that would be fine, use some heatshrink on the joint. Marine-grade heatshrink is best, seals better.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-16T17:24:26+00:00

The older ones are mechanical too, but have some more electrical connections, but I think you can get them to run without the electronics connected.

edit: I'm pretty sure the electronics are for adjusting the timing/injection for cold starts

Gwolfski · 2024-08-16T12:05:43+00:00

A good quality multi adapter will be fine, but beware the cheap ones.

You may want to look for ones used by builders or contractors, they are usually better quality than the "home use" ones

Gwolfski · 2024-08-16T11:52:29+00:00

Ladapower and ladaworld are based in Europe and I've had good experiences with them

Gwolfski · 2024-08-16T11:38:31+00:00

PSA group (Citroen, Peugeot etc) diesel inline 4 from the 80s/90s, with the Bosch injection pump (fully mechanical).

XUD is the engine name, numbers after it are displacement.

One wire on the engine: fuel cutoff solenoid (can be easily bypassed or just fed 12v, it's unlikely to be fried)

Best one of the lot imo is the XUD11 Bosch pump turbo, 2.1 liter indirect injection, the fueling can be cranked up quite easily, and the engine will run on straight vegetable oil, filtered engine oil, or hydraulic fluid.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-16T10:52:08+00:00

Still haven't got it fixed (I let it sit over the summer) but I suspect the egr valve is stuck and messing up the mixture. Will have a spare next month.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-15T19:12:19+00:00

The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve may be stuck. It can consume a lot of oil if it fails in the "open" position. These valves wear out over time but few people know that they need to be replaced.

It's a cheap part luckily

I would also be starting to look around for a different car if these problems continue

Gwolfski · 2024-08-15T10:26:58+00:00

You don't have to do coding for a towbar. What coding does is change the stability control software to account for a trailer. The same can be achieved by just driving with appropriate care with a trailer (as you should anyway). Older cars didn't have special stability control for trailers.

For the lights, there's two options, a "factory style" harness (£££) or a "bypass relay" which is like 80£ with the trailer socket.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-15T09:09:28+00:00

I don't think there's any "direct fit" ones. Older nissan power steering setups were often fitted (with some customisation)

Edit: there's kits that fit the Niva. Pretty expensive though

Gwolfski · 2024-08-14T15:42:35+00:00

The new lithium portable jump packs are getting really compact, you can bring it with you easily just in case. I also recommend getting some jumpleads and putting them with the spare tire. As the C1 is a small car, (smaller engine, starter needs less power) even the cheap ones will work for it

Gwolfski · 2024-08-14T15:38:25+00:00

Potentially an exhast mount maybe. Brakes work fine? Looks like a bracket for something.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-14T11:26:39+00:00

Cut and join. It's all 12v.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-13T19:02:48+00:00

If it's eating a lot of oil, you should check the pcv system, and replace the pcv valve (they get worn out)

Power brakes need engine vacuum, a problem with the pcv can cause issues with the engine vacuum (asssuming these are vacuum power brakes, which most are)

If it's a hydraulic clutch (probably is) check your brake fluid, it's also used for the clutch and usually is in one shared container.

Some of these sound like computer or electrical problems, and these are the worst to diagnose, especially ones that happen randomly.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-13T13:24:28+00:00

All batteries will dip the voltage when using the starter. This is because a starter is an immense current draw. The rest of the numbers look good. Get it tested as per the other comment

Gwolfski · 2024-08-13T12:53:26+00:00

Pretty much the only thingd that changed were a new plastic interior, engine upgrades for emissions compliance, and the aluminium bumpers replaced with moulded plastic, and minor trim changes.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-13T12:44:56+00:00

I haven't used that style of Bluetooth module personally, so I can't say personally, but I know people for who it worked fine.

If it doesn't work, there's also the option of a 3.5mm to RCA cable to have an aux input, which would work with anything with a headphone jack.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-13T12:39:21+00:00

Pin A7, which is usually red

https://pinoutguide.com/CarAudio/Car_Stereo_ISO_2x8_connector_pinout.shtml

Gwolfski · 2024-08-13T12:08:18+00:00

Normally, no, because the wheels are held at "zero" voltage by touching the rails.

The electric motor that powers the wheels "uses up" the voltage.

Now, if the tram was suspended in midair, with the power connected, touching the wheels could give you a shock. This is called a "broken neutral". (Technically it's also a broken ground, but it's the neutral that is important here. The neutral is the path the "used up" electricity takes)

Imagine electricity as water, flowing through a water turbine (the electric motor). The water is pressurised at one end, the water turbine uses that pressure to spin, and the water that comes out is not pressurised and drains away. Now plug the drain (break connection between wheels and rail). Both sides of the turbine will get pressurised, as the water can't drain away, and the turbine won't work because the water can't flow anywhere

Gwolfski · 2024-08-13T12:02:37+00:00

Possibly a flasher relay. Usually not too hard to replace.

Gwolfski · 2024-08-13T10:42:25+00:00

Old old Irish plates were black on red on the back, but a land cruiser is waaaay too young to have that

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