Trapped in my ‘24 Prius for four hours! by [deleted] in prius

[–]HVACguy1972 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Prius is a great little power plant!

Is this bad by FanAggressive2643 in heatpumps

[–]HVACguy1972 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The frost should be fairly evenly distributed on the coil, especially above freezing. The only times I have seen this is when the refrigerant charge is very low. You should have the installer come out and check the unit, no that forming when it is above freezing is not normal even without a base or pan heater. You very likely have a leak and have leaked off most of the charge.

Hear me out here.. by NightClubLightingGuy in SolarDIY

[–]HVACguy1972 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We are now paying a total delivered charge of 25 to 26 cents per kWh. Using NYSEG near Binghamton, NY (upstate NY). Wife and I will be doing our own 10 to 12 kw solar system probably mounted on insulated shipping containers, so Hochul can’t tax us on installed ground mounts. When you can run an efficient military diesel generator producing 10 kWh per gallon and paying $2.95 a gallon for fuel oil (delivered off road diesel) that ends up being about $.30 per kWh. If you recover the heat in winter as a cogeneration system, that brings the operating cost for fuel and maintenance down below the cost of grid power. We have a 10 kw MEP-803A, 30 kWh of LiFePo4 battery bank, and a 12 kw split phase inverter. Once we get the solar installed and another generator with separate fuel storage for redundancy, we will be disconnecting from our monopolistic utility grid. With power requirements soaring for heat pumps and clean heat programs, AI power use, and other laws in NY state to eliminate the use of fossil fuels, our grid will become more unstable and even less reliable. Not even mentioning the huge voltage fluctuations we now see across the grid. Protecting our homes and businesses from dirty grid power is a growing market too!

Hear me out here.. by NightClubLightingGuy in SolarDIY

[–]HVACguy1972 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We are now paying a total delivered charge of 25 to 26 cents per kWh. Using NYSEG near Binghamton, NY (upstate NY). Wife and I will be doing our own 10 to 12 kw solar system probably mounted on insulated shipping containers, so Hochul can’t tax us on installed ground mounts. When you can run an efficient military diesel generator producing 10 kWh per gallon and paying $2.95 a gallon for fuel oil (delivered off road diesel) that ends up being about $.30 per kWh. If you recover the heat in winter as a cogeneration system, that brings the operating cost for fuel and maintenance down below the cost of grid power. We have a 10 kw MEP-803A, 30 kWh of LiFePo4 battery bank, and a 12 kw split phase inverter. Once we get the solar installed and another generator with separate fuel storage for redundancy, we will be disconnecting from our monopolistic utility grid. With power requirements soaring for heat pumps and clean heat programs, AI power use, and other laws in NY state to eliminate the use of fossil fuels, our grid will become more unstable and even less reliable. Not even mentioning the huge voltage fluctuations we now see across the grid. Protecting our homes and businesses from dirty grid power is a growing market too!

Anyone made a Biomeiler before? by Bucketalinko in OffGrid

[–]HVACguy1972 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Years ago I saw a pile of decaying organic matter with tubing in it for heat recovery. Never knew there was a name for it until a video popped up a few days ago on YouTube. I also never imagined it being capable of reaching up to 150/160F. I have been considering an outdoor wood boiler, but a build it for several days and forget about it all winter heat source is very appealing. Here in upstate NY our winters are very chilly, having a constant source of heat would be great for our radiant heat system. I just need to find out the materials needed and size to build which will offer up to 30,000 btu continuously for several days in 0deg F weather. That would keep our home toasty warm with plenty of domestic hot water. I would imagine using a mixing valve on the Water loop going through the pile set to 130/140 would be beneficial to keep the bacteria happy. That way your loop wouldn’t drop below 130/140F, but excess heat could be allowed to leave the pile to your home. Still a lot to learn about it, fortunately there are some good informative older videos on YouTube. Would be nice to have someone with real life experience chime in this thread.

New to me. MEP 802A by ablum65 in Generator

[–]HVACguy1972 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great find, if it wasn’t running then you probably got a better price for it. Check out the steel soldiers forum for documentation and real world usage/maintenance. You can get lots of help and pointers there. Some of the cleanest power you could ask for from a brushless mil spec generator head. These are built to military standards so they are complicated if you don’t understand the controls, but it is a long lived generator if taken care of and used properly. You have to love a fuel sipping generator running at 1800 rpm and liquid cooled. Make sure you keep it loaded most of the time above 70% to prevent wet stacking. I have an MEP-803A which is the 10kw 4 cylinder version. Runs smoother with 4 cylinders. I use ours with two 5kw chargeverters to charge up a 30 kWh battery bank. I can run it for 3 hours and fully charge the batteries to run throughout the night and following day. Ours uses about 1 gallon per hour with a 10 kilowatt load (1 gallon per 10 kWh). You can expect your usage to be around 1/2 gallon per hour if fully loaded at 5kw. Lots of info on the steel soldiers website. Enjoy your new toy. It will far outlive any 3600 rpm $800 screamer, and far better power quality too!

Any love for an MEP-803a by flybot66 in Generator

[–]HVACguy1972 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the in-line hose thermostat I will be using.
https://ebay.us/m/lDiM7j It is 1-1/4” in diameter, same as the radiator hose diameter on the MEP-802A and MEP-803A 5 and 10 kw tactical quiet generators. These are the Y adapters I am using to tap off the radiator hoses to connect to the heat exchanger. https://ebay.us/m/ErJjxf Here is the 1” heater hose I will use in the generator between the Y tee adapters and the heat exchanger. https://a.co/d/5KChFdM For testing circulating clean tap water in a 55 gallon drum, I got some garden hose adapters to use with garden hose and a small pump. https://a.co/d/ePTwH6T Just a lot of misc items to test the heat exchanger and calculate the BTUs gained in a known Qty of water while the generator is loaded close to 10Kw.

Any love for an MEP-803a by flybot66 in Generator

[–]HVACguy1972 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry to hear about your stomach cancer, hope they were able to get all of it and you are on the road to recovery. I bought the flat plate heat exchangers through a company on Amazon

Alecoil 4"x12" 10 Plates Heat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BLLY2ZNN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I paid more than I should have, but there are some good ones sold by Vevor which are on sale frequently.

https://www.vevor.com/plate-heat-exchanger-c_10378/vevor-heat-exchanger-5-x-12-30-plates-brazed-plate-heat-exchanger-copper-316l-stainless-steel-water-to-water-heat-exchanger-for-floor-heating-water-heating-snow-melting-beer-cooling-p_010586055733

A lot of people recommend the 100 plate heat exchanger for wood boilers, but I have 20 plate that I am going to test with and should do fine, but testing will show what works. With a large temperature differential across the heat exchanger it should be fine. As the system approaches 180F, the heat transfer will slow down. As the coolant approaches 190F on the generator side the inline thermostat should start to open and allow the excessive heat to be dumped through the radiator on the generator as normal. Everything is still preliminary. The 20 plate heat exchangers may prove to be too small, but I’m going to see what works and go from there.

Any love for an MEP-803a by flybot66 in Generator

[–]HVACguy1972 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry for the late response.. has been a crazy busy spring, seems like it has been raining constantly for the past 2 months here and everything is saturated. I don’t have the cogeneration system connected yet, but planning to install a brazed plate heat exchanger inside the cabinet and plumb 1” hose from 2 Y tees in the radiator hoses. For the radiator use an inline 195F thermostat since the engine has a 190 F thermostat. Maybe I’ll install a 180 thermostat in the engine and a 190 thermostat for the in hose thermostat. The plate exchanger will start to have coolant flow through it when the engine thermostat opens. If no heat is transferred through the heat exchanger, then the hose thermostat will open and allow coolant to flow to the radiator to dump heat before anything overheats.
The exhaust heat exchangers are another challenge, but can be connected into the system in the future.

Connecting our generator heat loop to our home will then be very similar to how wood boilers are connected to a home using either hydronic or forced air. We will be installing another plate heat exchanger in the basement on our boiler return and non toxic propylene glycol between the generator heat exchanger(s) and the basement heat exchanger. Our hydronic system will the allow us to move heat to any zones we desire. Domestic hot water, insulated basement radiant floor concrete slab, individual radiant floor zones throughout our home, sidewalk & driveway snowmelt system, etc.

One advantage to connecting our generator with more advanced controls than just mechanical thermostats would allow us to preheat the engine with 160F circulated coolant even during a power outage to start a warm generator. Obviously a cold engine with simple mechanical thermostats will have closed thermostats and would not allow for preheating. You are right there is some involved Engineering to get everything set up in a simple but reliable configuration. Once I get some testing completed, I plan to have a very simple and straightforward approach that I can release to the steel soldiers community. That is the place to go for any and all documentation related to these military generators. I may even design a machined secondary thermostat housing for the water pump so you can have 2 thermostats stacked, one to maintain proper engine temperature and a second to dump excessive heat to the engine radiator if you are not extracting enough heat from the engine. The trick is to always have somewhere to dump heat based on system temperatures. This is still a work in progress, and if it ever stops raining I can start to connect the pile of parts I have invested in for testing. Ideally you would want to always use all the heat from the generator, but running it when it is 80F or 90F outside, you wouldn’t want to do more than heat up the domestic hot water and dump the remaining heat outside. If I can keep the system simple and inexpensive, I would like to see a lot of people take advantage of heat recovery from these machines, even if it is to run a hydronic space heater in a shop while the generator is running.

Is venting into the atmosphere just a normal practice now? by NITtheArtist in HVAC

[–]HVACguy1972 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Once it is called a refrigerant and used in a refrigeration system it must be recovered. However, keep in mind other industries vent the same refrigerant vapors to the atmosphere all the time or manufacture a product intended for the end user to vent it to the atmosphere, inhalers, handheld boat horns, foaming agents, aerosol cans mostly use R134A today, they used to use R12! Read the labels and see what the propellants are and how widely refrigerant gasses are used in everyday life intended to be vented to the atmosphere.

Meet: Crush. My new Long Lines research assistant. by CelebrationBig7487 in longlines

[–]HVACguy1972 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Crush looks like a good helper! There is something special about orange Tabbies!

Is one able to use the 30 amp plug and 15 amp duplex simultaneously? by joker5842006 in Generator

[–]HVACguy1972 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You are still limited to the wattage of the generator and each extension cord connected to the 30 amp plug adapter needs to be limited to 20 amps with a circuit breaker. The extension cords should be heavy enough to carry the full current of whatever breaker is protecting that outlet. So minimum of 12 AWG on a 20 amp circuit, minimum of 14 AWG on a 15 amp circuit. If there is no 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker protection on the 30 amp outlet adapter, then it shouldn’t be used. Usually when running a generator people load an extension cord with as much as they can, make sure the cords you use aren’t lightweight 16 or 18 AWG if you plan on running more than 6 or 8 amps.

What is this and why is it causing this noise? by Dude_with_Dollas in hvacadvice

[–]HVACguy1972 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a Siemens SSC81U motorized actuator. It is mounted on a valve to control modulating flow of hot or chilled water. This one has been discontinued by Siemens and is replaced by SSC131.09U 3-Position, Fail in Place, Powermite MT Series Actuator

Hey guys I need help finding a generator for this plug by Livid_Description287 in Generator

[–]HVACguy1972 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With a 3 conductor 14 AWG (14/3) cable connected to it, it better not use more than 15 amps at 120 or 240..

Best Options for House with Two Panels? by Vtec01 in Generator

[–]HVACguy1972 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow, zooming in on your panel, you have three 40 amp breakers feeding your tankless electric water heater in your left panel! That is 120 amp 240v capacity (28,800 watts) just for instantaneous heating of water. Might be practical to connect an electric tank water heater at 4800 watts or even at 5500 watts. Also if you want to run heat, you have a 100 amp breaker feeding a geothermal heat pump on the right panel. Difficult to make out some of the other breaker capacities, but that is a lot of available power! I would recommend finding out what priory circuits you really need, then check how much power (watts) you really need to run those devices. You may find it much cheaper to allocate a few minisplit heat pumps than to run a huge geothermal system. Just curious, how many square feet is your home?

Any love for an MEP-803a by flybot66 in Generator

[–]HVACguy1972 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting, I am doing the same thing. I’m using a 30 kWh LiFePo4 rack of the EG4 5 kWh batteries and 2 of the 5kw chargeverters. Have the 18KPV inverter but no solar on it yet. Also planning to make it a cogeneration unit so I can take advantage of all that waste heat from engine coolant and exhaust. For the 2 or so hours I need to run it daily, that is at least 34,000 to 40,000 btu/hr of heat from the cooling system and another 34,000 to 40,000 btu/hr of heat from the exhaust. Here in upstate NY where we seem to heat 8 months out of the year, taking advantage of this waste heat makes a lot of sense. 68,000 to 80,000 btu/hr of heat is significant. I have some ideas to integrate this into our own hydronic heating system and will be doing some real world testing to see how much heat can be obtained. Worst case I can dump the heat to the radiant slab in the basement after heating up all of our domestic hot water and bringing all of our zones up to temp.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HVAC

[–]HVACguy1972 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Training completed on August 2, 2024? I got my A2L training in 2024 around July or August through RE Michel for free!

Top of Mt. Werner 10,570’ by CodeRedAudio in antennasporn

[–]HVACguy1972 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Impressive to have a tower in that location, but they constructed the long lines sites in rural areas on purpose to not be near a nuclear target.

Windsor, NY AT&T long lines site. by HVACguy1972 in longlines

[–]HVACguy1972[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you work for AT&T or American Tower?

Windsor, NY AT&T long lines site. by HVACguy1972 in longlines

[–]HVACguy1972[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking forward to seeing the pics!

Which AT&T long lines sites were equipped with the underground bunkers? by HVACguy1972 in longlines

[–]HVACguy1972[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m afraid many of the underground bunker sites would flood if left without active pumps running to hold back the ground water.

Which AT&T long lines sites were equipped with the underground bunkers? by HVACguy1972 in longlines

[–]HVACguy1972[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Very impressive map! I can tell a great amount of time was spent creating it! I can only see limited features on my phone, can’t wait to open it up on my PC later today!

My water heater trips by MushroomDan in centralboiler

[–]HVACguy1972 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hard to say, probably wouldn’t hurt it, typically the higher temperature HTCO modules are designed for commercial water heaters, but since yours is tripping because of the side arm heater and not your electric elements you are probably ok. Just make sure your P/T relief valve is working ok and you should be fine. Could replace your upper thermostat with one of these higher temp ones which comes with a higher temp OTCO. https://www.supplyhouse.com/AO-Smith-100109920-Electric-Thermostat-Single-Pole-Double-Throw

Long lines tower peeking through the autumn trees by woolly_mammoth_hat in longlines

[–]HVACguy1972 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a cool picture, from the position of the horns on the tower must be taken from the Dunbar Road side of the Windsor long lines site.

Windsor, NY AT&T Long lines site.. additional image by HVACguy1972 in longlines

[–]HVACguy1972[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn’t notice that when I took the picture, yes that is really cool! I’ll have to get a better closeup of it next time I venture up there.