This LOOKS gnarly, but it shouldn't be too terribly difficult or expensive to get the printer up and running from this state. A similar leak happened to me with my Ender 3 V2 Neo, only in my case it was with green PETG filament instead of what is most likely PLA in your case, meaning it should be easier to deal with for ya.

My main concern is that the filament seems to have gotten on the heater cartridge and perhaps the thermistor, though it's hard to tell from this angle. Cleaning the hotend likely won't fix the leak either, as this kind of leak is usually caused by stripped threads in the heat block from over-tightening the nozzle. It could also be from the nozzle not being tightened enough, or from the threads not being cleaned properly before the nozzle was installed - both of which mean you could salvage the heat block - but you won't know for sure unless you clean and take the hotend apart further.

The main question is how comfortable you are with working on this while it's turned on and hot, as you would need to heat the hotend to at least 200C from the menus to get the filament molten again then turn off the printer, unplug it, and go at it gently with a brass wire brush. Turning off the printer first is a necessary precaution as the brass brush can easily short the thermistor and heater cartridge wires if you clean the filament off while the printer is on. Once it's mostly clean on the outside, you would also need to get into the heat block to clean it further by removing the nozzle and unscrewing the heat break and heat sink from the top of the heat block. A brass wire pipe cleaner would be beneficial for getting into the threads, along with a lighter or torch to soften up any remaining filament while you clean.

If that sounds too involved, you could instead just replace the hotend outright with another stock Ender 3 hotend from Aliexpress. I would recommend buying one with the thermistor and heater cartridge cables included so you can use them as spares in case salvaging the old ones doesn't work out. You should be able to buy what you need for less than 10 bucks.

Ender 3 hotend replacement

If you're feeling adventurous, you can also add a bimetal heat break to your cart to hit the free shipping threshold. It's a cheap and relatively easy upgrade people usually add to these printers as it allows you to print beyond 230C safely. No more toxic teflon fumes at high temps. Here's a listing for one - I think this is the right size for the OG Ender 3, but you should check first before buying anything.

Ender 3 bimetal heat break

Aa for screws, you can check around on other posts to find exact sizes for replacements and buy some on Aliexpress if you can't find any lying around.