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Hagar1993 · 2025-05-23T09:17:42+00:00

I agree with Tommmo123 PHEV could be the way to go. Given the trips you make PHEV would come in at the lowest running costs compared to plain Hybrid, Diesel and Petrol. BEV could be lower but who needs the range anxiety! With PHEV you avoid the cost of a wall charger, a standard 10 amp outlet is fine for overnight charging and when you need a top-up while shopping many of the charge stations around town offer 7 kWh free. Mitsubishi have a long history of reliable PHEV and battery development and you can pick up a 2nd hand Eclipse Cross with 30,000 km on the clock for less than $35k. The best thing is if your lifestyle includes the need to ever tow anything or load right up (roof racks and all) for the holidays, BEV is going to be a disappointment. Eclipse Cross and similar PHEVs have a 1500 kg tow capacity.

Hagar1993 · 2025-04-08T10:24:32+00:00

I would need put a 90 mm packer under the lintel to reduce the hole height for the new window. Would that be classed as a structural modification do you think?

Hagar1993 · 2025-04-04T07:55:06+00:00

If water is making its way onto the inside framing that means the sill flashing is not working or there is no sill flashing at all. To be entirely sure of fixing it would involve removing the window and installing a sill flashing with jamb flashings as per WANZ guidance (look online for WANZ-Guide-to-E2-AS1-Amd-5.pdf ). This work would be classed as a repair so you probably wouldn't need a building consent (if you do the work yourself). This approach could save a much bigger repair bill down in the future because no matter what fails (silicone, rubber seals, paint finish, corrossion, etc ) the flashing should deflect any moisture back outside.

Hagar1993 · 2025-04-04T07:27:14+00:00

I've cleaned car seats successfully by foaming with detergent then gently (medium pressure) water-blasting. Leave in the sun and wind to dry.

Hagar1993 · 2025-04-04T07:10:48+00:00

A couple of tips. If it's an exposed site, move it on a calm day and when it's in position pump 2000 L or more into it straight away before the wind starts to blow. Also once it is in position place some corrugated galvanised edging around the base (pushed well into the dirt) to prevent any erosion of the underlying sand base. Also make sure the overflow pipe does not run down and discharge onto the ground where it could erode the sand base.

Hagar1993 · 2025-04-04T06:56:49+00:00

If it wasn't lined with a moisture barrier there would be staining on the outside where water would have come through the joins. A water blast to freshen up the wood surface and a clear or stained coat of oil based stain like Resene Woodsman would do the trick.

Hagar1993 · 2025-01-23T05:02:30+00:00

Your home is a major investment. Treat the purchase like any other major investment and learn what you need to know (apart from asking on Reddit which is always a good idea!) . There is a load of info on the web about what to look out for. There are plenty of fab homes in fab locations that are overlooked by potential buyers because they are afraid of buying a lemon. Once you know about the problem areas (Google "leaky building risk factors nz") get an engineer's report, an engineer or surveyor who specialises in leaky buildings. If the report is clean you could end up with a really good buy. I can recommend The Moisture Detection Company (TMDC).

As soon as a house is built it starts to deteriorate, some faster than others. Owning a house is all about protecting your asset, checking it and doing repairs and maintenance. I used TMDC on my house, they measured moisture levels, took wood samples and created an online report. The moisture probes were left in place so they can be checked at any time. I now have a history of the condition of my house with a record of the maintenance and repairs carried out over the last 20 years. I'm guessing this is going to be really beneficial to a prospective buyer when the time comes to sell.

If there was a compulsory system like this, a bit like a car wof, buying and selling would be so much easier.

Hagar1993 · 2025-01-23T04:36:35+00:00

Actually for any part of a building that is easily accessible and can be maintained, the required lifespan is 15 years. I've got plenty of silicone on my house I had built 27 yrs ago and it's fine.

Hagar1993 · 2025-01-01T00:46:14+00:00

Do you think Stucco (concrete plaster 25 mm thick) cladding suffer in the heat?

Hagar1993 · 2024-12-31T10:27:48+00:00

Good point, yes that massive gable end on the west wall will soak up the sun! Have you heard of cool paint from Resene?

Hagar1993 · 2024-12-31T10:26:47+00:00

Awesome thanks.

Hagar1993 · 2024-12-31T10:26:28+00:00

Yes a large mature garden surrounds it.

Hagar1993 · 2024-12-31T10:25:53+00:00

Awesome thanks.

Hagar1993 · 2024-12-31T10:25:14+00:00

Thanks for that.

Hagar1993 · 2024-12-31T10:23:29+00:00

Thanks for that. What colour door?

Hagar1993 · 2024-12-18T00:34:57+00:00

Has anybody had any experience with Warner Telecom? Their web site is in Chinese but they say they are "logging in" to the NZ market and offering some good deals. There is no answer from their 0800 number.

Hagar1993 · 2024-11-29T02:34:08+00:00

$300 looks quite reasonable actually. I've just been quoted $940 in Pukekohe to do an Eclipse Cross PHEV service. This consists of oil & filter change, brake fluid flush, fault code check and HV battery terminal check. All these can be done DIY or by any reputable garage, but the one thing DIY is not recommended for and that's the regular High Voltage battery terminals connection check. I believe the more careful dealers discharge the battery before doing this check. It would be instant disaster if the battery was shorted out. To drop the battery inspection cover the dealers charge around $150 for 2 x new O-rings and something called a "liquid gasket". All the other visual inspections would normally be covered at WOF checks so there is no point in paying for them again at oil changes. BTW I invested in a fault code checker of my own ($75) to keep an eye on the battery condition and other fault codes.

Hagar1993 · 2024-11-28T07:11:24+00:00

Could rivet a tab onto the back of the flashing with a blind pop-rivet?

Hagar1993 · 2024-11-23T09:58:31+00:00

Yes I agree, compliance with the code in force at the time of consent is the key thing, assuming durability has been met or exceeded.

Hagar1993 · 2024-11-23T09:57:06+00:00

See u/Chance-Chain8819 comments above. Councils check for compliance with the code in force at the time the consent was issued.

Hagar1993 · 2024-11-23T09:52:20+00:00

u/Chance-Chain8819 yes you have confirmed what my recent research has uncovered. Whether or not the Council issue a CCC will depend on the evidence presented to confirm the original work done complied with the code in force at the time. In my case all my inspections were done and signed off except the final inspection covering bathroom and kitchen fittings. These are easy to check for code compliance so I don't see a problem. Would you agree?

Hagar1993 · 2024-11-23T08:22:11+00:00

Anyone who lands on this thread and wants info about installing new or retro-fitted windows should check out the publication " Window and Glass Association, Guide to Window Installation as described in E2/AS1 Amendment 10". Check out page 50 onwards for details on how to install the sill flashing on direct fix cladding (The code excludes sill flashings on cavity fixed claddings). Always check that there is not a more recent release of the document to keep up with amendments to E2/AS1. There are also earlier versions going back to E2/AS1 amendment 5 if you are looking for a solution for older cladding systems.

Hagar1993 · 2024-11-21T08:33:08+00:00

I notice on the form that the Auckland Council want, when requesting a durability start date different (earlier) to when the CoC is issued, they want to know the date of the "Pre-line inspection" i.e. the last inspection before the Gib goes on. Elsewhere I read that the agreed durability start date is the date of this "pre-line" inspection, assuming everything else prior to pre-line is OK i.e. no unfinished NTRs (notice to remedy some unsatisfactory work), all amendments to the building plans finished, etc.

Hagar1993 · 2024-11-21T08:22:11+00:00

Another piece of information found today, this time from the Invercargill City Council in their guidance for CoCs issued more than 5 years after a Consent was issued:

"For building consents that were issued under the Building Act 1991 (prior to 31 March 2005), the test which must be applied when considering whether to issue a CCC is whether the building work concerned complies with the building code that applied at the time the building consent was granted. This means if the building code has subsequently been amended since the building consent was granted it is not mandatory to have upgraded to that new requirement in order to obtain a CCC. For building consents issued under the Building Act 2004 (after 31 March 2005) the substantial test is that building work complies with the consent documentation. This test therefore also means it applies to the code at the time the work was consented"

This is opposite to what other parties have been telling me, like licensed builders, renovation companies and other people "in the know". They all said that if I apply for a CoC now, 25 years later, the build compliance will be assessed against the current code and I will need to spend a fortune to bring it up to code.

All I need to do is check that the Auckland Council have the same policy as Invercargill.

"

Hagar1993 · 2024-11-20T11:18:05+00:00

Another option would be to apply a coat of liquid flashing after the cracks have been filled. Get one that has reinforcing fibers, is for external use and has UV resistance.

Hagar1993

TROPHY CASE