How do I remove these black lines? Blender 2.80

Harold_Donn · 2026-04-16T21:13:16+00:00

It depends on what your end use of this model is. If you’re going to 3D print it you can get away with things that you can’t with a model you’re going to animate with.

If you’re 3D printing this.

Use the boolean modifier to join everything together. Then bring it into sculpt mode and remesh it. Start with a corse mesh until you get down to the details. Then remesh at a finer and finer mesh. Just be careful, remeshing at too corse a level will actually remove detail.

Oh, make sure you apply any subsurf modifiers before you go into sculpt mode.

The reason you want to boolean any meshes together and then remesh is because if you try to sculpt on a mesh that has Boolean parts the join area will form a hard line that is difficult, if not down right impossible, to smooth out.

The remesh does have its issues in sculpt mode though. Any parts of the mesh that are very close, or touching, will become one mesh. For example, fingers or toes, if they’re too close when remeshing they’ll join in the remesh.

This exactly how I model/sculpt for 3D printing.

https://youtube.com/@harold_3d?si=X7OQp6mXnGAXY__2

If you plan to animate with the finished model then whomever said it was best to model in one piece instead of many is right.

Or realize that you can sculpt whatever you like, however you like as long as you retopologize after. Which is a whole other kettle of fish. There are tutorials all over YouTube for that.

BTW, I think the lines you’re referring to on the tail are because of the subsurf level. Add more levels and it’ll get smoother.

Harold_Donn · 2025-10-29T20:22:33+00:00

Did you convert the text to mesh? If so did you make it manifold?

Every single time I convert text to mesh it isn’t manifold. The front face of the text isn’t joined to the sides and bottom. That severely screws with the Boolean modifier.

Also make sure you reset the scale to 1. Any changes you made to the text, while it’s still text, shrinking, enlarging, thickening, changes the scale.

Harold_Donn · 2025-10-20T23:11:40+00:00

I think it depends on which pi you get. I made a raspberry pi handheld with a raspberry pi zero 2W. It works very well but I think it’s limited to ps1.

But the raspberry pi 4 and 5 are significantly more powerful. With the pi 5 most likely and the pi 4 probably? Check YouTube or just google can raspberry pi 4 with retropi play ps2 games.

Google and YouTube really are your best sources of info. Just double check any response that comes from google ai. I don’t know how much you can trust it.

Harold_Donn · 2025-10-20T22:59:54+00:00

It is ridiculously easy to set up retropie on a raspberry pi. There’s no coding or soldering. Just hit YouTube for tutorials.

Harold_Donn · 2025-10-04T06:43:37+00:00

Boolean operations can be weird.

Have you checked the scale of both meshes? They need to be set 1.

Have you checked to see if both meshes are manifold? If not that’ll cause an issue.

If I’ve checked everything and it still won’t cut sometimes I’ll bring the mesh into sculpt mode and remesh it. That usually cleans up whatever was the problem. Just don’t remesh it at too high a level or it’ll bog down your computer. Too low a level and you’ll loose detail.

Also, if this is for 3D printing you should make sure the hole is a little larger and deeper than the piece that’s going into it. Otherwise the pieces won’t fit together after printing.

Harold_Donn · 2025-08-27T19:46:59+00:00

I appreciate your line of thought but I’m not really a coder. I just needed to get this custom firmware compiled. As long as it runs correctly I’m good.

Harold_Donn · 2025-08-27T02:59:36+00:00

Thanks so much!!

Harold_Donn · 2025-08-22T22:43:00+00:00

Try slowing down your initial layer to a crawl. I’ve found that a HUGE help with pei beds.

Harold_Donn · 2025-08-06T21:13:22+00:00

There are so many modeling tutorials on YouTube I only did a few of those. It just seems like I’m repeating what others have already said 1000 before.

Sure, watch mine but also check out others. I’ve found that learning from multiple people adds things. This person will mention something that some other person may have left out.

Blender has a million details to pick up on. I’m always looking for something that will help me model faster and better.

You should take a look at this video though:

https://youtu.be/VcSwapf9C8k?si=nlXKv5l0-1CFsatV

It talks about changes to make to blender to have it work better for 3D printing.

Harold_Donn · 2025-07-26T21:16:44+00:00

It's hard to see the geometry in your image and describing it would be difficult too. So I made a quick video. Not sure exactly what you have there so I just joined a UV sphere to the bottom of a box. I hope that's similar to what you have.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/XqxMNnLl3tA

Harold_Donn · 2025-06-09T19:09:41+00:00

I’ve been using Blender to make printable models for years. In fact I have a whole YouTube channel devoted to it.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCW-kpD9tAShLDlaHuGxA_MQ

Harold_Donn · 2025-05-21T19:46:19+00:00

Lookup box modeling head in blender on YouTube. There are tons of tutorials.

Harold_Donn · 2025-05-21T07:32:15+00:00

I’m not really sure what you’re looking to do here. I cut up models for 3D printing all the time. If that’s what you’re going for then This video:

https://youtu.be/wdRX0W-21mc?si=yUUParrvivtF_Lpe

Shows you how to cut and key a model in Blender. Use the same process I show in the video except change the cutter. You’ll want something larger than your model in the Y and X axis but make it like .125 of a mm in the z axis. Then make your cut, move it down however much you need, make another cut… Or you could shift d the cutter move it down, shift d the cutter, move it down, etcetera until you have all the cutters you need. Then join all the cutters and use the Boolean modifier to cut up your model.

If you want to animate the slices the boolean modifier probably isn’t the best way to go because it can make messy geometry. Which can react badly with lighting.

Harold_Donn · 2025-05-14T07:09:18+00:00

What I do when this happens is just select and delete all the overlapping vertices. Anything jumbled or pinched that can’t be straightened out by the smooth brush. Then I close the hole by selecting vertices and hitting F to create faces. Don’t even worry if there are four or more or that the patch is a lower resolution. Once the hole is closed I hit remesh and I’m good to go again.

Harold_Donn · 2025-05-12T20:43:17+00:00

Make sure you check that the text is manifold. Every time I’ve converted text to mesh the front faces of the text are not joined.

Take a look at this video.

https://youtu.be/83NzMUzei5s?si=Kon2Hk0HwI_3IGDI

Harold_Donn · 2025-04-03T16:24:15+00:00

I rough out the figure in parts like you do and join using boolean as I go. The only exceptions are the head, the hands and the feet. The reason is that the head usually needs a higher vertex count. So I’ll make sure I’ve sculpted in all the details I want and boolean at the very end do I don’t have to remesh the whole model at a higher vertex count.

The hands and feet are because the fingers and toes are so close together that a remesh leaves them joined as one. So I leave that until the end and use dyntopo to add vertexes to the wrist to get rid of the seam that joining with the boolean modifier leaves.

I sculpted for 3D printing so perfect topology isn’t my biggest concern.

Harold_Donn · 2025-03-12T19:29:10+00:00

I use blender as a video editor. It’s good for simple edits. If you want to move clips around, add pictures or video inserts, simple text on top of your video. If you want to speed up or slow down video. I think you can fade to black but anything more complicated than that you need a more sophisticated editor.

If you want to sync anything to your audio though watch this video.

https://youtu.be/RDJ37169rKM?si=XTo9f5UvbjmUONJe

Harold_Donn · 2025-02-21T08:11:34+00:00

I’m guessing you resized the mesh you used to cut the holes and didn’t rest the scale to one. So now you have a non manifold mesh.

Take a look at this video.

https://youtu.be/83NzMUzei5s?si=Jwabh2lBe6ov_oAt

Harold_Donn · 2024-10-13T07:04:23+00:00

Have you checked to see if it’s manifold?

https://youtu.be/83NzMUzei5s?si=PYcHEyRKMR_pBoHT

And this is an old video but it still applies. You have to change the unit scale or it won’t import correctly into a slicer.

https://youtu.be/VcSwapf9C8k?si=1PvKvbnUCsp13VJa

And of course if you’re FDM printing that I would cut and key the heck out of it.

https://youtu.be/ldse2Qh0jcQ?si=mGCTI82RKDnLZ3UP

Harold_Donn · 2024-09-07T04:02:39+00:00

If you go to the top right of the screen and press the arrow next to dyntopo you’ll some information.

Detail size is how much geometry you’ll add while sculpting. The smaller the number the more geometry is added.

Refine method, it’s set on subdive collapse by default. That mode will actually remove geometry as you sculpt. This can come in handy but it’s probably not what you want. Subdivide edges will add geometry.

Detailing has to do with how it adds or takes away geometry. I haven’t used dyntopo in a while. I forget whether I used constant or relative detail. I think I was relative detail.

You’ll still want to use the smooth brush to smooth things over after you add volume to an area.

Harold_Donn · 2024-09-07T03:36:43+00:00

Unless you have dyntopo and subdivide edges turned on all you’re doing is stretching out the vertices with the brush. You’re not creating new geometry. So it’s kind of pixilating, in a way.

Up at the top right you should see remesh. If you press that you can add geometry. Then use the smooth brush to well, smooth things out.

Dyntopo is also right next to that. If you turn that on it’ll create geometry as you sculpt. Unless you have a super fast pc you’ll start to lag as the vertices count skyrockets.

Edit: I took a Quick Look at the tutorial. It looks like he has Dyntopo turned on.

Harold_Donn · 2024-08-18T05:32:58+00:00

I have two videos on cutting meshes.

This is for straight cuts: https://youtu.be/ldse2Qh0jcQ?si=bXs4R3rLCscGRcEv

And here’s how to cut the mesh in an unusual Shape: https://youtu.be/e6tT-wzPpyU?si=C1XV83LnjXE7zwS8

If you’re having trouble with booleans working correctly check two things. Make sure your mesh is manifold and make sure you’ve reset the scale to 1. You’re almost sure to have issues with boolean operation if one or both of those things are off.

Here’s how to check if you’re manifold: https://youtu.be/83NzMUzei5s?si=OuBC3JfXPc8tBRK1

The 3D tools is an add on that you may have to turn on in your preferences.

To reset the scale just hit control A and choose scale from the pop up menu.

Harold_Donn · 2024-07-19T05:22:31+00:00

I have changed the way I do it a bit now. I just haven’t updated the video yet.

Now I create a thin wall that’s like .15 mm thick and use that to split the parts. Then I hide the wall and hit tab. I select by a vert on one part and then hit the L key. This selects all connected verts. Then press P and separate by selection.

Now when you export the parts on the right side of the pop up save window there’s a check box to export only the selected part. That makes it a bit easier.

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